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Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: Ron Dittmer on January 22, 2009, 11:22:27 am

Title: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on January 22, 2009, 11:22:27 am
We bought our PC-2350 new in June 2007.
Here are things bought & changes made for it to serve us a little better.
As ideas come to mind and are implemented, I add them to this old post.


1) Improving Space Efficiency In Front Cabinets
We have the cherry finish option.  I found close matching pre-finished shelving at Home Depot.
The top shelf holds our RV documentation, from manuals to vehicle registration and insurance.
The vertical slots are used for park literature and all the rest.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3588/3508503966_e67ca94403_o.jpg)

In the right cabinet, I added a shelf to store our laptop computer.  I also added a power strip underneath it with outlets at various orientations to accommodate all our different charging power supplies.  The laptop, cameras, cell phones, video camera, & two-way radios, all plug in at the same time.  All chargers are ready to go at the flip of a switch when we are driving, plugged in, or when the generator is running.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3507692759_24e490c792_o.jpg)


2) Two Gallon Water Pressure (Accumulator) Tank
Improves the performance of the fresh water pump.  Water pressure and temperature is more consistent when dry camping.  The pump runs very quietly and cycles on and off at nice comfortable intervals.  No more quick on/off loud groaning and vibrations.  Simply stated..."Now It Just Feels Right".
Write-up with pictures available.  Provide your email address.
Cost Of Project: $50
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3630/3507693131_6c5aa056af_o.jpg)

Given it's location in the outdoor storage compartment, I made an enclosure to protect everything.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3350/3507693091_a1ac8749ce_o.jpg)


3) Slide-Out Bedroom Tray
It mounts under an overhanging cabinet at the foot of our bed, utilized as a shelf.  We use it all the time.
Cost Of Project: $20
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3508503758_2847790cdb_o.jpg)


4) Entry Door Limiter
This limits the swing of the entry door.  On a strong windy day, the door can easily rip out of your hand, swing around, and crash into the side of the RV.  When our awning poles are attached to the side of the RV, this prevents the door from hitting the pole there.  The limiter is engaged and disengaged in seconds with the door open or closed.  It is not visible when not needed, and is self storing.  It also never gets in the way when entering or exiting the RV.  The rope stretches a little so it offers a nice "Soft Stop" action.  Flange weld nuts are perfect to hook the rope on.
Cost Of Project: $5
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3403/3508503872_36770e549b_o.jpg)

Flanged Weld Nuts work great for hooking the rope on and off from.
(http://www.jhpfasteners.com/images/categories/JPWF_CD.jpg)


5) Window Shade String Reinforcements
I reinforced the shade tensioners that hold the shade strings at the bottom.  No more issues with those things pulling out of the wall when bumped hard, and bumping them is very easy by the dinette and bed.  The solution looks nice too.  Write-up, pictures & drill template available.  Provide your email address.
Cost Of Project: $3 per window
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3394/3507693227_14e338df7f_o.jpg)


6) Foam Rubber, Drawer & Cabinet Liners
Wow, what a difference this made with rattles in the RV.  We bought solid foam rubber drawer liner material on a roll from a home improvement center.  Everything stays put better, and rattles much less.
Cost: $7 per roll.  A few rolls were needed.  A little carpet tape keeps them in place.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3302/3497030900_9cabcc0e96_o.jpg)


7) Wall Clock With Indoor & Outdoor Thermometer
Hang the clock on the wall, and place the transmitter in the rear compartment in it's holster.  The clock displays a lot of information including indoor & outdoor temperatures, and indoor relative humidity.  It is also an alarm clock.  I mounted it to the left of the entry door so it forces us to get out of bed to turn it off.  It's great to know the outside temperature.
Cost: $30
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3508166159_fe37e56f15_o.jpg)


8) Tow Our Jeep Liberty
With a Unified Tow Brake, our Liberty is very easy and safe to tow.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4038/5161179007_8d1fdc6468_z.jpg)


9) Suspension Improvements On Our 2007 Ford E350 Chassis
Having all this work done by a truck suspension shop was a costly $3900, but I cannot emphasis enough, how this has improved the handling, comfort, and safety of the motor home by leaps and bounds.  Our PC-2350 now handles like an SUV...not an RV.  No more wandering, boat rocking, swaying, or wrestling when trucks go by or with cross-winds or on uneven road surfaces.....you know....those highways with the groves from heavy truck traffic.  My wife can sit at the dinette, and her coffee will stay put on the table.  You can also nap in the rear bed without getting tossed around.  Mountian roads are taken with the greatest of confidence, even when towing the Jeep Liberty.  The RV stays planted on the road in a hard turn, with the brakes able to do their job well.  This package also eliminates any need for stabilizer jacks when parked.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can install some of this yourself and save big money.  I bought Roadmaster sway bars, but I have since learned that another company Helwig, makes a much lower cost product that is also easier to install.

- Replaced the smaller stock front sway bar with heavy duty Roadmaster version
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3507692971_c9df08a9db_o.jpg)

- Added a rear heavy duty Roadmaster sway bar as there was none on the 2007 E350 chassis to begin with
- Added a rear Henderson trac bar (the blue thing) to eliminate rear tail wagging (Both In Same Picture)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/3508504086_11be026e08_o.jpg)
The landscape timbers are simply being stored under the RV.  Just ignore them.

- Replaced the stock Ford shocks with Koni-RV adjustable shocks set to the stiffest setting.  Since 2007, Koni now offers their FSD (http://www.konirv.com/nextstep.cfm?Model=18) line of shocks for the E350/E450 which provide a soft ride under normal driving conditions, and kick into heavy-duty-action when conditions call for it.  But be warned, the price for FSDs will "Shock" you.

- Replaced the stock steering stabilizer with a heavy duty version by Safe-T-Plus
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3508504254_37abfa0f8c_o.jpg)

- Got A Wheel Alignment Done  The shop had to use off-set bushings to set the camber correctly.  I thought this sounded crazy, but since have learned this is common with motor homes.


10) Replaced Generic Plastic Bathroom Faucet With A Nice Pivoting One
When you need the sink clear, simply swivel the faucet aside like a kitchen faucet.  The water falls closer to the middle of the bowl providing nice room for your hands under the running water.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/3509425650_7b2d849e18_o.jpg)


11) Drop In Sink Drain Basket
Fits perfectly flush.  No more lost items down the drain.  Called a 1 inch drain basket, sold in all home improvement and hardware stores.  It simply drops in.  Costs around a dollar.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3650/3509425684_2a023bff5b_o.jpg)


12) Folding Shower Stool
Works great, very strong, folds up very thin.
Cost Of Stool: $15 at Bed Bath & Beyond
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/3496217149_3e6c17e406_o.jpg)

We store it here.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3496217211_b974d769b1_o.jpg)


13) My Wife Irene's Handy Work With Curtains & Pillows
The original curtains were a lighter green.  Her new curtains & throw-pillows match the green appoints perfectly.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8462454519_10108c6774_z.jpg)

Our rig had no sink window curtains so Irene made a set for it too.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3599/3497030948_ac926e0864_o.jpg)


14) Self-Storing Dish Rack, Fit's Perfectly!
We later found something better for our particular needs, scroll lower.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3337/3497030846_034ea097e2_o.jpg)


15) Towel Rack Over Toilet In Bathroom
The picture shows only one towel in each, but we fold-n-roll and stand up all needed towels to fit during trips.  The upper for me, the lower for my wife Irene.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3359/3497031104_3ffeb322e0_o.jpg)


16) Nicely Stored 2' x 4' Fold-In-Half Folding Table With 4 Height Settings
Sold in places like Walmart, Meijer, and Costco, but not all the time.  It may be considered a seasonal item.

Stores Easily Inside Rear Compartment
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3660/3578675505_f805fa7429_o.jpg)

Shown Set At It's Highest Setting
Highest - nice for a cooking work surface
Middle setting - nice for eating at with regular lawn chairs
Lowest setting - nice with low lounge chairs
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3350/3578675365_08561c9db9_o.jpg)


17) Made A Shield Between Batteries and Tires, Made Of Pickup-Truck Bed Liner Material
More pictures HERE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/sets/72157622075091526/).
BEFORE
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2607/3833091891_343dfc1957_b.jpg)

AFTER
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3495/3841153525_3487c92500_b.jpg)


18) Installed a 19" Widescreen TV/DVD Combo In Bedroom Area
The TV overhangs the cabinet on the isle side, but is flush with the cabinet door.  It does not interfere much when getting in and out of bed.  Well worth it to us.  Widescreen DVD movies are enjoyed in bed.  This TV uses much less inverted power than the main TV with sound system.
No concern of draining the batteries when watching TV in bed.
We bought our two TVs years ago.  The LED TVs sold today use so much less power, tempting me to replace ours.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8237/8462460345_04eef85b34_z.jpg)


19) Replacing Ford Single CD Radio With Ford 6-CD Radio
Used ones are sold cheap on eBay.  I paid $70 including shipping.  Fairly easy to swap radios.  If you are going to do it, first remove your old radio so you can compare connectors while internet shopping.  There are a few different connector designs that look similar and you'll need the one that matches your Ford chassis.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/FORD-Radio-CD-MP3-Player-Tested-Escape-Mariner-F150-Ranger-Van-Windstar-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/XBMAAMXQLQJREeWW/$T2eC16R,!yEE9s5jFRSGBREeWV39d!~~60_57.JPG)


20) Replacing Barrel Chair With A 3rd Captain Seat That Matches The Front Two
Cost was just over $400 including the 2 arm rests and adjustable lumbar support.
Replaces the original barrel chair in minutes by reusing the pedestal.  Much more comfortable and safe.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6173/6191936126_12d4e1ae89_z.jpg)


21) Wired Backup Lights To Switch By License Plate For After Dark Dingy Tow Hookup & Unhooking
The switch is water proof, bought on the internet.  The back-up lights are ideal when hooking up in the dark.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5030/5744739303_911443ccd9.jpg)


22) Relocated Backup Monitor To The Mirror Position & Added Scanguage-II
Easy to glance at and I don't hit my head on the monitor anymore.
Universal bracket kit part number is 250-8088 at T&A Service and Supply 800-658-3423  $48 plus shipping
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8463546500_4ee91cd3bb_z.jpg)


23) Replaced The 5 small Galley Cabinet Drawers With 3 Huge Capacity Heavy Duty Drawers
This increased our drawer storage by over 85%, nearly doubling it.  CLICK HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,1751.0.html) for all the details.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/8874626759_49d5756c5e_z.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7350/9196069409_82fb13d79e_z.jpg)


24) Converted Florescent & Incandescent Lighting To Warm Low Power LED Lighting
CLICK HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,2186.0.html) for all the details.
Converted all florescent light fixtures to warm white LEDs, and added an LED mood/night light to each, controlled by a 3-way switch.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/15038148862_66b939da91_z.jpg)

Note the 3-LED nightlight circuit on the side.  When all nightlights are on, they offer very nice cozy atmosphere throughout the cabin.  Each nightlight is less than 1/3 of one watt.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/15038511195_511a224591_z.jpg)

The pair of long LED strips generated too much light so I disabled every other circuit to achieve the proper amount of light which also reduced power consumption to just 3.33 watts per fixture, 1/3 that of the original florescent fixtures.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/409/19711189943_9669332aec_z.jpg)

The closet, shower, outdoor storage, porch, and Sanicon lights all got sealed & frosted LED bulbs that use one tenth the energy.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5618/20307760828_a13030c3ba_z.jpg)


25) Reinforced The Fridge Door Hinges
The fridge door lower hinge can break on very rough roads when heavy items are stored in the door shelves.
These reinforcements resolve any such concern.  As shown, I put one on every hinge.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/290/19873530664_6a3acee11a_z.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/356/20256234988_c5b9db6815_z.jpg)


26) Added two 12V Outlets In The Center Console Front Face (one of the two has a pair of USB outlets)
Relocates all charging away from the gear shift lever area for safer driving, provides easy access for the passenger, cleans power cords off our cup holders.
Power is received from the high-power cigarette lighter outlet.
The short vertical dark gray wire seen under the radio, supplies power to the outlets.
Not seen is a hidden in-line connector to easily disconnect the center console, required to remove the engine shroud.
Cost Of Project $7.85  (wires & connector not considered)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5818/21613151283_1e03831732_z.jpg)


27) Added A 3-Way Display, Volt Meter, Clock, And Temperature, In The Stove Hood Control Panel
CLICK HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,2234.0.html) to read about it.
Cost Of Project: $24.43
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/648/21656677384_1b1ec7fd0f_z.jpg)


28) Replaced Limited Coverage Boot Tray With A Full Covering Shoe Mat
Cost Of Project: $9.00
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/719/23486943192_33473e17d1.jpg)

29) Custom-Fit Reversible Cutting Board Over Sink
Cost Of Project $26.00 (Bought At Bed Bath & Beyond, then shaped to fit)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5651/23231258889_a0a82d765b_z.jpg)

30) Changed From Two Liquid Acid 12V Batteries, To Two 6V AGM Sealed Batteries
Increased energy capacity & battery performance.  Sacrificed the battery tray to fit, but no need for the tray with sealed batteries.
CLICK HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,2092.0.html) to read the details.
Cost Of Project $360
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7696/17305883992_94b0e41c0b_z.jpg)

31) Added Outdoor Carpet Liner To Rear Storage Compartment
Cost Of Project: $5.00 (bought one foot off a large carpet roll at Menards)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8113/29130916450_8dc14d39a6.jpg)(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8070/29130913800_ef3f002f78.jpg)

32) Re-Key'd Some Locks So 3 Keys Works Everything On The PC
Cost Of Project: $44.00
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8383/29522436135_ae44827a94_m.jpg)

33) Upgraded Stock 25W Speakers To Infinity 65W (180W Peak) Speakers With Tweeters
Cost Of Project: $78.95
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8274/29596336695_60b0d35bdd_z.jpg)

34) Shallow Shelf In Bathroom Under Medicine Cabinet For Toothbrushes Toothpaste And More
Cost Of Project: $10 (used discarded wood from galley cabinet project)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8463/29778712745_ce7c730720_z.jpg)

35) Resolved Loosening & Rattling Of Microwave Oven
Cost of Project: Under $10
Details HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,2486.msg20079.html#msg20079)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8745/29746341292_7b2b67a8a1_z.jpg)

36) Collapsible Dish Rack, Dish Tray, and Cutting Board, Working Together
The collapsible dish rack & tray store easily under the rear dinette bench.  The gap in the cutting board allows water to drip into the sink.
Actually I bought 2 collapsible dish racks for larger wash loads.  Stacked up they take up so little space.
I retired the dish rack in #14
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5471/29737851694_4f8d6d90f6_z.jpg)

Dish Rack Open
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5643/29737851304_898447f3b5_z.jpg)

Dish Rack Collapsed
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7538/29737850824_49817b4b80_z.jpg)


37) Added Hanging Gravity Sewer Hose Storage Tube
I ordered this one from somewhere, but forgot from whom. I specified a particular length to consider a Rhino Hose system.
Details HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?topic=3332.0)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1890/44096697452_2ebe8c8d8a_z.jpg)


38) Stabilized Our 2-Pole Dinette Table
This modification worked out perfectly.
Details HERE (http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?topic=3365.msg28453#msg28453)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1819/30277818888_cd6bdb3e8a_z.jpg)


39) Installed A Kitchen Towel Rack
This rack is out of the way, yet very convenient.
Details HERE (https://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?topic=3379.0)
Cost Of Project: $10
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1886/30880524648_466fef6bd3_z.jpg)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1884/43842061975_fb05af24b7_z.jpg)


40) Eliminated Squeaks Originating From The Stove
Placed a thick silicone pot holder over the grates prior to placing the Corian covers.
Also added rubber pads in between the covers for a snug fit.
If you look real close you can see the clear-colored rubber pads.
Also wrote "BACK" and "FRONT" on the edge of the covers to place them for best fit.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7600/27591989152_5896f87211_z.jpg)
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: aimee on January 22, 2009, 07:08:44 pm
 (cheer)  I am SO impressed!  Those cabinets look great.  It seems like you guys really spend a lot of time in your RV and putting in the extra effort and time to do them so they look perfect is definitely better than getting them in there quickly and putting in extra time being displeased with them every time you see them.  ;)

And the clock/thermometer is just plain cool.  (nod) 2o2
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: charpdotirv on January 31, 2009, 10:21:36 pm
Those are great improvements. Please send me more info on the Entry Door limiter, Window shade string reinforcements, water pressure tank and thow in the front cabinet idea.
We have already moved the little stool into the bath room.
When the weather breaks I'll show you how we stopped the door from swinging shut when the wind blows.
Irv Charpiot charp_di@swbell.net
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: geomusic on February 04, 2009, 09:47:44 pm
Very nice, Ron. I'm interested in replacing my TV with a larger one, as well. Can you describe how you remove the existing one? I think I probably have the same one you had. Does the TV slip upward out of its rack. Or is it necessary to remove panels in order to get to the mount behind? Thanks for sharing your experience and any advice you can give.  George
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: aimee on February 05, 2009, 03:50:28 pm

My hat is definitely off to the Missus for those curtains. They really are lovely!  5:)
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 12, 2009, 03:55:31 pm
I'm interested in replacing my TV with a larger one, as well. Can you describe how you remove the existing one? I think I probably have the same one you had. Does the TV slip upward out of its rack. Or is it necessary to remove panels in order to get to the mount behind?

George,
We bought our PC without a TV.  I was able to reach behind the back wall, and bolted the TV in from behind.  I reached behind through the side cabinets.  I did trim a little wood from inside a side cabinet to make a larger pass-through to get my arm in back there.

As my TV runs fairly hot, I tried my best to get enough air circulating back there through.....

- adequate air space between the TV and back wall
- careful placement of a home-made wooden mounting bracket, as not to block air vents in the TV
- adding two computer style fans that run off 12V
- three large holes high up in the back wall to improve air circulation

The fans are mounted to circulate air from behind the TV to behind the back wall.  They are placed lower, with a conveniently located switch that is lower yet, reached easily from under the TV.  They are wired through a potentiometer to adjust the fan speed to reduce fan noise.  It works perfect.  With the air space on both sides of the back wall and additional air being added from under the TV, there is enough air volume to cool it down nicely.

I probably over-engineered the whole thing, but I feel better.  One thing for sure.  If we forget to turn on the fans, the TV does feel much warmer up top.  Better safe than sorry.
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: aimee on February 12, 2009, 10:22:03 pm
Can you describe how you remove the existing one? <snip> Does the TV slip upward out of its rack. Or is it necessary to remove panels in order to get to the mount behind? George

George, you could definitely call Phoenix 574.266.2020 and ask them. They would know for sure how it's mounted and how to best remove it.
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Bobbie on February 26, 2009, 04:51:04 pm
Thanks for sharing all of your enhancements. . .great job. I especially like the idea of the faucet for the bathroom; we'll implement that idea.
How did you fasten the towel rack to the bathroom wall? How would you fasten to an outside wall?
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on March 02, 2009, 02:28:23 pm
Bobbie,

I believe the finished wall board is the same, both inside and outside.  I predrilled holes and used simple wood screws.

When drilling holes, be sure they are the proper size.  Too big, and the screws strip.  Too small can be bad too.  With this wall board, if you force a wood screw into a hole too small, you can damage the wallboard.  The area around the screw will crumble.  Pick a drill size to match the inside diameter of the threads on the screws.

The wall board is only 1/8" thick which is not thick at all.  But don't be concerned.  If done right, there is a lot of strength to mount things like towel bars and racks without concern of it pulling off the wall.

Of coarse everything has it's limits too.  Shade string tensioners are noted for pulling screws right out from the wall when bumped real hard.
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: nickmurabito on March 17, 2009, 04:45:01 pm
These modifications look great.  You are correct.  Taking your time to do it right does pay off in the end.  Would you please send me the various details for all of your modifications?  I'd like to do the water pump mod first.  I too would like for the pump to not cycle as much.

Thanks,

Nick
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: markbrumbaugh on March 21, 2009, 08:43:18 am
Nice job Ron.
Title: Re: Improvements and Enhancements To Our 2007 PC-2350
Post by: PhoenixRising on April 23, 2009, 01:47:17 am
Hi all,
I'm very interested in all the improvements Ron Dittmer discussed. We recently purchased an 04 2350 PC and would appreciate incorporating many of Ron's ideas. Does anyone have contact info for him or details of his fixes? Many thanks,
Debbie
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 04, 2009, 02:22:28 pm
Now that our camping season is over, I can't think of anything more my 2350 could use except for one thing.....a propane tank shield.  I looked at it briefly, and it appears there is no simple implementation.  Over the winter, I will give it a closer look.  It might be a project never done.

Anyone here add a propane tank shield to protect it from the dual tires behind it?
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Simple Song on November 19, 2009, 05:59:42 pm
Ron.  Could you give us purchase info on the hose and reel you use in the rear compartment ?

Thanks

Tom
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 19, 2009, 06:48:47 pm
Ron.  Could you give us purchase info on the hose and reel you use in the rear compartment? Tom
Tom,

I bought that "flat white hose on the blue reel" at a Wal-Mart we parked at over-night.  I don't recall the cost, but I did recall it was clearence priced.

It stores thinly, taking little space.  I wouldn't recommend it as a primary hose because it is a bit of a hassle to work it in and out from the reel all the time.  I have a standard white RV hose for that.  The one in the reel comes out when the other isn't long enough.

Come to think of it, I should have bought two of them.  Keep one in the reel and one loose for every day use.  I think the flat hose would store better without the reel than a standard hose.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Margie on December 28, 2009, 05:00:50 pm
Ron, I have been looking all over for a towel rack similar to the one you used in your 2350's bathroom and can't find one.  May I ask what brand it is and where you might have bought it?  We love many of the improvements you have done to your motorhome.  We picked up our 2350S late in October and love it but are trying to make some improvemets.

Margie
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 28, 2009, 05:31:27 pm
Ron, I have been looking all over for a towel rack similar to the one you used in your 2350's bathroom and can't find one.  May I ask what brand it is and where you might have bought it?  Margie
Hi Margie,
I asked my wife where she bought it from, but she couldn't say for certian.  She said it was either Walmart, Target, or Meijers, but could not completely rule out a dollar store either.  Brand is unknown.

Thanks for the compliments.  This post has been a huge hit with PC owners.

ADDED 12/2015: I have recently seen our towel rack being sold in Bed Bath & Beyond, and also The Container Store.

Ron
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: gradygal on December 29, 2009, 05:43:45 pm
Ron,
What's the deal with Dancing with the stars?

Judi
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 29, 2009, 07:22:16 pm
Ron, What's the deal with Dancing with the stars?  Judi
My wife and I had been taking ballroom dance lessons at a Fred Astaire dance studio for 1.5 years, ending last August.  Our neighbors found out about it, and we suddenly found ourselves competing in a fund raising event for PADS (Public Action to Deliver Shelter) of Elgin, IL.  It is a homeless shelter in our community, here:  www.padsofelgin.org (http://www.padsofelgin.org)

We are competing against 5 other couples.  Each couple is assigned a dance instructor (also volunteering) who coreagraphs a dance routine to a particular song.  We are doing the Rumba.

The dance competition is the evening's entertainment.  But our mission is to seek sponsors too....basically everyday people donating to the homeless shelter, through a website using their credit or debit card, tax deductible of coarse.  They select which dance team they support with their donation.  My wife Irene and I are dance team #5.  Details of the event are here:  http://www.padsofelgin.org/news_events.html (http://www.padsofelgin.org/news_events.html)

It has been very intense training.  We are amatures trying to perform as professionals.  In our early 50s, we are being tested in a few different ways, physically and psycologically.  The Rumba we are doing has a mid-lift, a long dip, and a few sexy moves.  It will be very interesting to see how it turns out.

We will post the dance on You Tube afterwards.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Margie on January 03, 2010, 03:13:19 pm
Thanks Ron.  I will just keep looking to see what I can find for a lightweight towel rack.  Must be something out there for us.  Happy New Year to you.  We are looking forward to lots of trips in our new Phoenix Cruiser in 2010.
Margie
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: jwhyt10 on January 05, 2010, 08:07:45 am
Those were great ideas you had for the compartments in the front.  I copied them in my 2010 2400 and they came out great. I would really like to add the water pressure tank and would appreciate it if you either post or send me the instructions.  My email is serenitymotel@hotmail.com.  Thanks for all your great postings.  John, Vermont
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on January 05, 2010, 10:13:47 am
John, Vermont

I emailed you a WORD document and 7 pictures on how I installed the water pressure tank.

I don't know where your water pump is located on your 2400, but understand the pressure tank could be mounted anywhere along the cold water high pressure side of the pump.  It doesn't have to be next to the pump, though it is nice to have the mechanics all together.

On-line, there are companies that sell a real nice stainless steel version with nice mounting feet.  If you have the money to spend, they make the installation much easier including a place to mount the pump itself to the tank if so desired.  This allows for vertical stack up of the pump on top of the tank to use less floor space.

Here is what I am describing.  http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Charged-Stainless-Steel-Accumulator-Gallon/dp/B002MBORYU/ref=sr_1_4/182-9098293-1198113?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1262704002&sr=8-4 (http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Charged-Stainless-Steel-Accumulator-Gallon/dp/B002MBORYU/ref=sr_1_4/182-9098293-1198113?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1262704002&sr=8-4)

I went with the cheap $30 Home Depot version because I didn't know what to expect from it, and didn't want to spend a lot of money with the thought of removing it soon thereafter.  During our following trip, I knew the tank was there to stay.  So my point here is, I would have spent the big money on a tank with mounting feet.

Those forward cabinet shelves & vertical slots really make that space work for us.  I am glad to read of someone else utilizing that idea.  You are the first that mentioned it.  It isn't an easy project if you want it to look like a professional installation.

Ron Dittmer
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: rockrat on January 23, 2010, 08:33:24 am
Ron

those are very nice improvements. Could you please e-mail me the details on the construction of the water pressure tank? Pictures will be very helpful as well.  My e-mail address is donaldip59@gmail.com. Thanks in advance

Donald
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: NC Sailors on January 29, 2010, 09:18:04 am
Attached is an image of "custom" tank installation I saw on a PC-2350 at the Phoenix factory in October.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on January 29, 2010, 11:12:27 am
It is great to see the factory implementing some of my improvements along the way, though I am sure they would find them without my help.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 27, 2010, 09:54:05 am
I don't yet have pictures of this to share, but it is pretty easy to imagine.

From the day we bought our 2350, when driving our rig on bumpy roads, we would get this strange banging noise in the area around the DVD player.  It drove me nuts, nuts, nuts.  I had my wife look high and low, but we never could find the culprit until this past trip.

What is it?  The roof top antenna.

When we got home this past week, I got up there and added stick-on felt pads, the kind you use to slide chairs on wooden floors.  I added them to the feet of the antenna and also on the edges of the wings.  I have not driven the RV on bumpy roads since so I cannot say for certain that I resolved the problem.  But it's a good prognosis.

ADDING:  Taking a trip the following RVing season, the felt pads resolved that terrible banging for good.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 12, 2010, 02:01:23 am
Added.....

#22  Replacing Barrel Chair With 3rd Captain Seat.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on January 08, 2011, 11:19:00 pm
I just replaced my barrel chair with a 3rd captain seat.  It takes less than 10 minutes, a 1/2" deep socket, and a 3/4" standard socket.  Super easy to swap them.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: JackD on January 10, 2011, 11:42:50 am
Ron:

Looks GREAT!!!  BTW, got the sway bars problems worked out, --- Roadmaster admitted they sent the wrong fittings for the rear bar, sent the correct, all installed, and ready to go.  Makes a BIG difference while stopped, and I am going to see what improvement whe we go south in a few weeks. 

Jack
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on January 10, 2011, 01:11:09 pm
JackD,

Yep, it's great when parked.  Just wait when you are on the open road.  You'll be saying....."Why isn't the factory offering these as an option?"
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: NLK on February 02, 2011, 09:18:38 am
Ron… I'm very impressed with your ideas and the workmanship of your "jobs".
I've been thinking about this ever since you posted it ... Driver's side cabinet – Is this unit free standing or attached to the walls?
Passenger side cabinet – How did you attach the shelf and also the plug strip to the wall?  My concern with screws ... how long can they be?  It makes me very nervous when I don't know what I'm dealing with in the walls. Gosh, I would hate to go through to the outside skin. Any tips you can provide me with would be great.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: billy on February 02, 2011, 10:27:44 am
NLK, I have to laugh at your post, NOT AT YOU, a friend installed a TV in the back of his trailer, decide where to run the TV cable, made a real nice straight line connection to the out side wall, drilled the hole. All is well until he got out side; he failed to realize he could not reach the drilled hole, slight difference between the bottom of trailer to the ground. He now has a silicone hole and one below for the TV wire.

Ron, I emailed Mike Bronzini; they sell chassis parts and had a sale till Feb 1. He offered to extend it for me, when we get the 3100 I will order a Trac-Bar and when we get home the sway bars.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 02, 2011, 11:53:37 am
NLK,

All mounting screws attach to adjacent cabinetry. None into the B+ dome because like you say, the screws would go through to the outside.  Also, the location for screws are in places where they don't pierce through into an adjacent cabinet interior.

It's been over 3 years, but I seem to recall pre-assembling my custom book slot cabinetry, then work it into the PC cabinet.  It is screwed only into the floor with 2 screws, and side wall of the cabinet with 1 screw using flat head counter-sunk screws, the 3 favor the front for ease.  Screws were located where the opposite side would not show.  You don't want to see a screw coming out into view or into another cabinet.

The top shelf is a glove fit to the B+ fiberglass dome.  That shape is odd so I had cut a pattern of it from cardboard then transferred the pattern to the board.

The vertical slots have a little gap to the back wall because of the curvature there.

The assembly is well fitted to the wood side wall of the cabinet.

There are a couple inches between the assembly and the front.  This makes getting things in and out from it easiser, and also makes it possible to get the pre-assembly into the cabinet in the first place.

------------------------------
About the right side shelf with power strip.

The shelf is shaped like the other side, done in the same manner with a cardboard pattern.

There are 3 stubby "L" brackets that screw into interior wood in a tri-pod placement.  The power strip is mounted to the shelf itself, and is plugged into the PC supplied outlet there.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 02, 2011, 12:01:27 pm
Ron, I emailed Mike Bronzini; they sell chassis parts and had a sale till Feb 1. He offered to extend it for me, when we get the 3100 I will order a Trac-Bar and when we get home the sway bars.
Excellent Billy!  Those E350/E450 suspension upgrades is a great investment for safety, driver fatique, and over-all passenger comfort.  I wish the US government would mandate them for all motor homes.  The cost per RV would come down significantly, and RVers and the people around them would be much safer too.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: NLK on February 03, 2011, 07:46:38 am
Ron ... Thanks for the details of the shelving installation.  tymote
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on May 21, 2011, 11:24:49 pm
Added #23, waterproof switch to control backup lights by hand.  Mounted inconspicuously next to the license plate light.  The switch works with the engine running or if the ignition key is turned all the way to the left to the "Accessory" position.  It lights up the work area perfectly so I can see much better than with a flashlight.  The tow vehicle headlights would work okay if they were not so bright and in my face.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 (bunk boards roughness)
Post by: BandD on February 17, 2012, 02:09:18 pm
Hi Folks,

Because I have the main bunk torn apart I have a chance to smooth out the top of the bunk boards.
I've gotten several splinters and scrapes making the bed from the rough surface of the boards.  So,
I'm painting the top with some cheap outdoor deck paint.  Really thickly.  Before I re-install the boards.

I have the bunk top off because I'm installing Ron's water pressure tank.

More fun!

Bill
 
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Anne and Bob on July 19, 2012, 09:37:13 am
Wow, Ron.  You sure did a good job.  Some of the things you did are now included in our new 2551.

We had shelves put in the shirt closet next to the kitchen.  They did a wonderful job.  Even put a lip on the edge of each shelf so things will not fall off.  It is going to be our Pantry.

We have to find towel racks and a TP holder (my current list).  My biggest observation:  There are no drawers for underwear etc.  I think some plastic baskets in the cabinets over the bunks will work just fine.

My sheets fit PERFECT.  I bought mattress covers from JC Penney's.  I cut off 6" from the one going to my bunk.  They were going to be a little wide but I left them that way.  I just scrunched them so they fit exactly and then put the sheets that I altered on and they seem to work out.  I think I saw some sheet tighteners at JoAnns Fabric that had clips (like on men's suspenders) to keep the sheets snug,  If not, I can use a velcro strap and that would work.  I just made the beds and don't want to undo them to sew in velcro. 

Where do people keep their pans?  When our rig arrived one of the first things I looked for was the dratted coffeemaker.  It looked so big in the pictures.  Well in 2013 they are no longer including them.  Good!!!
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: gradygal on July 19, 2012, 10:38:49 am
When we had our 2551, I stored the few pans that we carried in the space under the fridge. I put a basket in there and put the electric frypan and a couple of other pans in there. It worked out well since we use the grill, microwave and electric frypan. We don't use the stove too much.

We used one shirt closet for our pantry. We put plastic trays/bins that we got at the dollar store and put the foodstuffs in the bins. That saved the shelf. I have had trouble with the rubber shelf liners bunching up, so the bins worked better for me. The other shirt closet we used for a linen closet. We kept our underware above the beds, utilizing plastic bins.

We put the towel bar on the back of the sliding door and the toilet tissue holder under the wardrobe door. There are photos on the Forum of some of our improvements as well as others.

One thing that we did, that we have repeated in our 2910, is put the paper towel holder under the microwave with magnets. Sue, of Barry-Sue came up with that idea and it works really well. You've just got to take it down when you use the stove. Check out all of Sue's improvements.

One other thing that we did that we really like is removing the cutting board and replacing it with a mesh drawer from Bed Bath and Beyond. When we had the 2350, I never wanted to use that cutting board because of bacteria and the mess that I would create, so we did the drawer. Some like the cutting board, we didn't. You can see it on our post about improvements on our 2910.

Judi
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Anne and Bob on July 19, 2012, 11:07:01 am
Thanks for all the tips.  I had to run outside to check beneath the refrigerator.  We don't have a drawer beneath the refrigerator.  That would have been a good spot.  Guess the best way is to test out what fits where.  I figured on towel bars on the back of the bathroom door.  Bob doesn't want to put holes in the good wood for the toilet paper holder.  Will have to figure something else.  Maybe using some of those new sticky picture holders that you can remove when done.  The beds are sure comfortable.   Our PleasureWay beds were like sleeping on a rack.  Thought about sneaking out there last night to sleep but came to my senses.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Frank on July 19, 2012, 12:33:14 pm
We found that the 3 drawer plastic containers from
Walmart to fit perfectly in shirt closets for underware, socks, etc.
There is enough room on the side to hold laptop or briefcase.
ENJOY!!!
Frank & Dee
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Paul/Marilyn on July 19, 2012, 07:24:12 pm
Congratulations on your new Cruiser!! We're also new owners and know the feeling of fun learning all about it.
Marilyn & Paul  (yahoo)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: gradygal on July 20, 2012, 06:43:24 am
Ann and Bob

We didn't have a drawer beneath the fridge. Sorry if I confused you. There was a door that opened and just space under the fridge behind that door. That is where I put a large woven basket to hold my pans.

Judi
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Barry-Sue on July 20, 2012, 08:25:49 am
Ann and Bob,

   We also did not want to put screws in the bath door for towel racks so we used "extra strength" double sided tape and put our towel bars on the shower door.  I have one higher up and one about the middle and they work great.  Here is a link to the towel bars that we use.  http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=766831#axzz21AWNgYH1
    The adhesive on these was not that strong but we just changed it out for extra strength adhesive we bought at Home Depot and we have not had an issue yet.  I wish they were a little longer and when these no longer work (they've been working for four years) I would just buy the two end joints and a plastic bar and cut it to size.  These are only 12 inches long so I have to fold the towels in thirds.  I bought lightweight towels that dry fast so it is working for us.

Sue
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Barry-Sue on July 20, 2012, 08:34:33 am
Quote
Where do people keep their pans?

We also had shelves put in the two shirt closests.  I keep my pans on the bottom shelf next to the stove top.  I got a really good price (less than $50) for these pans.
http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-STOW-8-Stowaway-Stainless-Steel-Cookware/dp/B0007QS6G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342790932&sr=8-1&keywords=Cuisinart+Stowaway+Cookware
They all stack into the large one so they take up very little space.  AND--they are the nicest pans I have ever owned.

In that same cabinet I have my electric fry pan, crock pot, hand mixer, toaster, etc...  Those cabinets are nice and deep that you can put alot in them with room to spare so that you do not have to move everything out to get to one small item. 

Sue
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Barry-Sue on July 20, 2012, 08:45:16 am
Quote
My sheets fit PERFECT.  I bought mattress covers from JC Penney's.

Ann

   See my post on the velcro straps I added to my sheets http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,714.msg4852.html#msg4852.  They work great.   Yes, these beds are very comfortable.
(http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=714.0;attach=1196;image)
(http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=714.0;attach=1198;image)
(http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=714.0;attach=1202;image)

Sue
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2013 PC 2551
Post by: Anne and Bob on July 20, 2012, 09:54:15 am
I was on line last night and found my sheet snuggers at a Suspender company.  They come 4 to a package so I got 2 packages.  Instead of the metal toothed suspender end they have what reminds me of the garter we had for stockings when I was a kid.  That way they are really secure and won't rip the sheets.  The mattress covers and the sheets have elastic all the way around but still need a little snugging up.

I didn't purchase the quilted bedspreads because I have a perfect color comforter down at our Arizona place which I bought for our queen size bed and didn't use it.  It even has matching pillow shams.  I will just cut it in half and bind off the cut portion and it is going to be perfect.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Carolp495 on August 20, 2012, 07:29:13 pm
Ron: Vince and I really like the  neat improvements that you have done to your 2350 !!!!
On our 2350's door, we have a small hydrolic door closer .... do you have that as well ?  I like the extra cable that you have but wondered if you have both items ?

Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 20, 2012, 08:25:13 pm
For many years including our 2007, PCs did not come with any kind of door closure device.  I came up with the rope thingy and it works so well for us that we never considered upgrading to the one mounted on PCs today.

BTW:  Thanks for the compliment on my "Improvements" post.  It's nice to know people still find it and read through it.  Some of my ideas no longer apply to later rigs, but to someone buying an older rig, they could relate to much more.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on October 27, 2012, 11:27:53 am
Hi Ron,

Overall a very enlightening and educational write-up.  Thanks for taking the time to do this, and continuing to monitor this topic.

Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

I'm completely unfamiliar with the wall and door construction of the PC.  Over the years I've had no problem remodeling/repairing various walls and windows in regular buildings, including stick-built and concrete wall structures.  But for some reason, starting any repair on the PC is totally intimidating.  (Probably because the wife doesn't want me to make it worse as I don't know what I'm getting into!)  Any insights into wall structure would be appreciated.

And this also pertains to item #4, your Entry Door Limiter.  How did you mount the bold to the door?  I can't tell from the picture.  Please provide additional details.  And about the rope:  you said it stretches a little.  When I ask about this at a hardware store, they seem to think I'm referring to bungie cord -- is that what you used?

Thanks in advance for the info.

--GeorgeB

Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 27, 2012, 08:09:54 pm
Hi George,

I received your email and will email you my writeup and template.

I never addressed the window shade in the entry door.  The discs I used were selected for their durability, a good match, and look factory-like to me, rather than the after-thought that it is.  

Because your door requires an odd shape plate, maybe something of painted metal would be a better choice.  Just be sure the material is thick enough as not to deform if hit hard.

The walls of PCs use a vacubonded process  The outer material is a quality strong gel coat fiberglass.  The inside finished wall is a masonite type of material finished with a paper coating that is water & stain resistant and looks nice.  Between the outside and inside walls is steel framing similar to studs on a house with top plate and bottom plates.  The air space is filled with block foam.  The foam is very similar to a disposable styrofoam cooler.  There is also special metal framing used for windows and a/c unit.

Kermit explained this is how the assembly process is done.  An adhesive is applied to inside of the fiberglass and masonite panels, and also to both sides of the block foam, steel frame, and window frames.  All components are aligned and then placed inside a huge baggie-like thing and the air is sucked out to draw the masonite and fiberglass together.  It is sort of a clamping method to assure everything makes contact evenly.  After the adhesive has cured, that wall panel is ready for the motor home.

If you want to mount anything substantial, say a shelf or TV.  Just like at home, it is best to locate a stud.  Screws and wall anchors are only as strong as the inside wall board which is only 1/8" thick.  It's not much.  I don't advise to use self-tapping screws in the wall board, but rather pre-drill a pilot hole to the inside diameter of the screw threads.  This assures the masonite won't fracture, creating a weakened condition.

Your 2008 rig has a gas charged door closure, right?  Maybe the door closure was introduced in 2009.  I did not use a bungy cord.  It is regular rope.  Any regular rope stretches a tiny little bit when pulled hard.  A chain or cable for example would not stretch at all which would provide an abrupt stop.  My button on the door for the rope to loop around, is screwed on a short threaded rod.  That rod is screwed into the sheet metal of the door.  I tapped threads into the hole of the door metal.  Given the stresses are at 90 degrees to the tapped hole, there is no concern of the button ripping out from the door, or deforming the metal door in any way.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on October 27, 2012, 09:19:26 pm
Wow!  Thanks for the through explanation, especially the structural information.  That could be useful -- assuming the wife will allow me to put any holes in any wall (she's okay with the window shade anchor mod, just doesn't want ANY holes in any walls).  I'll keep working on her.

Looking at the door problem again, I'll probably have to post a separate thread regarding that crack, including a pix or two.

I'm guessing the foam is somewhat more dense than a foam cooler, closer to a structural foam panel?  In my experience, studs are almost never where you need them!  In maintaining a 60+ year-old concrete block motel, years ago I started using almost exclusively Toggler Alligator anchors http://www.toggler.com/products/alligator/overview.php#.  While most of the walls were concrete, I used the same anchors in hollow walls, including walls with just standard paneling.  Very rarely did I have to resort to lead anchors in the concrete.  So do you think these might work for light applications in the PC?  I'm thinking coffee cup/eye glass shelves, maybe a magazine rack.

And now I need to locate one of my two stud finders, both in storage, hopefully not buried too deeply.  Else I'll be buying a 3rd.

My 2008 2551 does NOT have a piston-type door closer, just a regular door.  But I see your point about rope vs. metal chain or cable.

As for the door stud for the rope:  I think that you're saying that the door frame is thick enough to allow sufficient threads to accommodate the stress from a door swinging open, not necessarily due to a strong gusting wind, would that be correct?  And any reason a 1/4" or 5/16" SS bolt couldn't be used instead of a threaded rod with a bolt?

The explanation you provided goes a long way to reassuring me I may be able to tackle some routine repairs or simple mods.

Thank you again,

--GeorgeB
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 27, 2012, 10:25:04 pm
Cup holders, eye glass shelves, even a towel bar, I feel all can be mounted using coarse thread wood screws, as long as you pre-drill avoiding masonite crumbling.  My towel rack in the bathroom here is just srewed into the wall board.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3359/3497031104_3ffeb322e0_o.jpg)

About the rope door stop, it "Is" strong enough for a strong gusty wind.
I selected the button as I call it, instead of a bolt for the ease of slipping the rope off, and so the rope would not get damaged from any sharp edges.  It  is deeper than most bolt heads offer so the rope stays on better.  Those buttons are sold at hardware stores and home improvement centers, most common in those loose hardware bins.  Not packaged on hooks.  I wish I knew their proper name.
ADDING LATER:  I learned they are called Weld Flange Nuts.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3403/3508503872_36770e549b_o.jpg)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on October 28, 2012, 07:05:12 am
I have two suggestions in addition to Ron's comments.

The first is that most RV factories give free tours of their plants that explain how an RV is made. If you live close to a manufacture, or are going by one, call them and ask about their tours. It is very interesting and informative. Also there used to be a three part video on "You Tube" showing Phoenix factory making a PC. I think it was made about the time your PC was made. I just searched You Tube for Phoenix Cruiser and found several videos, including one by Nexus. Now I will need to send some time watching them.

The second suggestion would be to remove one of the screws used by the factory to see what they think works. I believe you will find that now a days they are using self tapping 1 inch screws for most of their work. I don't know if they have changed the inside wall board since Ron's and your PC were made or not.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on October 28, 2012, 11:46:36 am
Tom:  Thank you.  I'll have to rely on the YouTube videos.  Possibly traveling to Minnesota next spring, may jog down to Elkhart.   Full-timing in the PC with no toad -- we'd be reluctant to drive in to the Monaco coach factory here in Oregon!  I may try removing one of the door bolts, but in another post in General Discussion I learned that removing bolts (floor bolts in this case) may not be a good idea  :).  (Those bolts hold the generator and the LP tank, per Kermit.)  So I will cautiously approach this method.

Ron:  by button, I'm guessing you mean something that resembles a cabinet pull knob but is threaded to fit over the rod.  I think I've seen something like that, will have to check out the big hardware stores when we get near some.  Also thanks for the window shade anchor mod info, will start on that soon.  Thanks again for the information, very useful.

In the interim, I now have to deal with a cranky Westinghouse TV:  the remote isn't working, the volume up button on the tv is now the channel down control, etc.  Resolving this just jumped to the top of the todo list.

Thanks again,

--GeorgeB
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: bobander on October 28, 2012, 12:04:08 pm
Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

--GeorgeB

I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

Bob A
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on October 28, 2012, 03:17:44 pm
I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

Bob A

Okay, that's definitely another possibility.  I can get fender washers relatively easily, maybe even some pretty decorative ones. <g>  Down the road, if there was a problem, go with Ron's solution, which does seem to add more support.  I'll study the pix more, and ponder these two solutions further.

Your use of wall anchors is quite reassuring, and the pictures are very helpful.  My confidence is growing.

Thank you,

--GeorgeB
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on October 28, 2012, 04:03:34 pm
The outside walls are 1 3/8 inches thick. Be carefull when using long screws that you do not go all the way through the wall to the outside, It will make you say bad words.  >(
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 28, 2012, 09:11:26 pm
Oooooo  :cool  I like Bobander's idea.  Like Tom says, be sure to consider wall thickness to prevent damage to the outside wall.  Insert a thin screw driver or long nail in the hole to measure depth before taking the next step.

Those wall anchors are made in a variety of sizes for different wall thicknesses.  Be sure to get the 1/8" thick wall size or the anchor could be permanently loose even after the collapse & fanning out behind the wall.  Bobander's top picture looks to be the right size.  The picture below is surely the WRONG size, shown for comparison.

WRONG One
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00BMHQcWplEvkm/Hollow-Wall-Anchor-HWA-.jpg)

How They Work
(http://www.macandchris.com/images/roof%20anchor%20screws.jpg)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Barry-Sue on October 29, 2012, 08:05:48 am
George

Quick check for you on the TV remote.  If the remote is able to control more than one type or model of TV it might need to be reprogrammed.  Most of the codes for the remotes and TV's are in the owner's manual.  Worst case you might have to get the codes off the internet.


Barry
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on November 03, 2012, 06:57:03 pm
George

Quick check for you on the TV remote.  If the remote is able to control more than one type or model of TV it might need to be reprogrammed.  Most of the codes for the remotes and TV's are in the owner's manual.  Worst case you might have to get the codes off the internet.


Barry


Hi Barry,

Just discovered that I'm not getting email notifications of updates to the forums.  I hit the Notify button thinking I needed to re-subscribe, but it just asked if I wanted to cancel notifications.  Nothing in the sp@m bucket.  Will have to check with Aimee on this.

Unfortunately, it isn't a universal remote.  The tv is a westinghouse sk-19h210s, with a dedicated remote.  I purchased a GE universal, programmed that and the TV works fine with it.  I can still use the Westinghouse remote if I need to re-setup or similar.  What's really annoying is that it has the curse of all electrical & mechanical products:  an intermittent problem.

And what I DON'T like about universal remotes is sometimes you hit one of the other device buttons accidentally (maybe similar to b*tt-dialing a phone?  :-D).  Had forgotten this when the new remote quit working.  It was the brain that went gunnybag, not the remote.

Thanks for the reply.

--Just George
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 03, 2012, 08:26:36 pm
Intermittent problems with a remote is often caused by lightly corroded battery terminals.  Be sure the terminals don't have a light green or chauky coating.  If so, I use a micro-sized wire brush on my Dremel tool, but there are numerous ways of getting the contacts clean.

If all that checks out well, the second thing would be the circuit board inside the remote.  The remote's rubber buttons push a black carbon rubber pad to the circuit board to make contact.  Actually the pad shorts wires together on the circuit board creating a switch.  If you can open the housing and can get the circuit board out, look for patterns of gold.  Using a clean eraser, rub the gold shiny.  The black carbon ends of the buttons should be cleaned with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol.  With all the shiny gold areas of the circuit board clean and the black pads clean and dry, reassemble and see what happens.

I do this as needed to my kids video game controllers and especially my key fobs, usually needed once every 4 years pending usage and especially contaminants like dust & liquids.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GeorgeB on November 03, 2012, 08:54:39 pm
Definitely good info Ron.  But at this point everything is working fine.  Don't need the original remote except when we move on to the next CG.  The universal remote does everything needed day-to-day, even when un-hooking/re-hooking to the site cable service.  I've filed your info for when the remote gets worse.

Dremel:  haven't needed it yet, but it is definitely along for the ride -- wouldn't travel without it.  And have a couple of handfuls of various small tools including electronic corrosion brushes (esp. good for leaky batteries), burnishers, de-burring tools, small screw drivers.  Collected over many years.  Don't take up much room, but are reassuring to have along.

Here's a remote story:  we're on our 2nd Airedale.  I've decided that these beasts should really be named Airehead Chowhounds. Came back into the living room, and my pal was chewing on the remote.  As you can imagine, I was quite unhappy.  Turned out, I had been handling the remote while eating fried chicken.  Fortunately, didn't hurt the dog.  I've come to respect your skills, Ron, but I'm pretty sure even you couldn't salvage that mess!  :-D  Totally off-topic, but I couldn't resist.

--Just George
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 03, 2012, 09:32:26 pm
George, I love your story.  Happy Trails.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: aimee on January 31, 2013, 10:05:37 pm
The image in #9 has a broken link.  Do you want to pull it/repair it? (I'm trying to track down all 404's to see why we have missing images, and this one popped up.)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: aimee on February 01, 2013, 11:30:37 am
Hmmm.  I'm thinking it's a DNS cache issue.  I'm not sure how to flush the DNS cache on a windows machine, or if it's something recommended.  On my mac, I flush mine from the command line in terminal, but your work folk may not like you doing something like that so you may have to wait out the "time to live" on it.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ambassador on August 08, 2013, 12:34:13 pm
 2o2Wonderful ideas.  Will share with those going to the 20th Reunion of the InterVec Phoenix Travel Club Sept 5-10 in Petoskey,MI tymote
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: GoPhoenix on August 27, 2014, 08:31:36 am
Tried to go the owner’s club page, www.intervecphoenix.org for the reunion details, but the website is not there. (WH)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on August 27, 2014, 08:53:14 am
Works now. They had problems this morning.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: RheaNL on October 23, 2015, 11:21:33 am
If you ever run out of your own projects, you can come to my house.  I have an RV plug and place to dump in the drive, live in the "Funnest Little Town in America" (as per Rand McNally) and scenery to kill for.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 23, 2015, 01:04:06 pm
If you ever run out of your own projects, you can come to my house.  I have an RV plug and place to dump in the drive, live in the "Funnest Little Town in America" (as per Rand McNally) and scenery to kill for.
:)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Robert G. on November 26, 2015, 10:37:03 am
Great improvements, can you send details?  rfisherman1@comcast.net
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 26, 2015, 10:58:20 am
Great improvements, can you send details?  rfisherman1@comcast.net
On which improvement?
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Sarz272000 on November 29, 2015, 12:07:32 pm
Nice modifications Ron.

Do you think a 450 upgrade from the 350 chassis would eliminate some of the upgrades you did to your PC?

Ron
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 29, 2015, 01:40:26 pm
Hi Ron,

You ask a good question.

Our chassis is a 2007 E350.  All E350s made prior to 2008, Ford did not equip with a rear stabilizer bar.  Starting in 2008, Ford improved the chassis, both the E350 and E450.  But the improvements are not as effective as the aftermarket improvements I had done to ours.  The question is.....Are the Ford improvements enough?  Some people say yes, others say no.  It does seem that the 2100 and 2350 could benefit from aftermarket improvements.  The 2551 and larger not so much.  This based on owner comments.  I wonder if it has more to do with the wheel base to rear over-hang ratio more than the chassis itself.

If I myself was going to order us a new 2015 2350, I would get it on the E350 chassis and determine after a long trip, if aftermarket upgrades are needed.

If I were to order model 2351, I might consider the E450.  That is based on my feelings alone, and also that we would likely get the longer bed with larger outdoor storage compartment, instead of the pantry between bed and stove.  I know we would load up that extra outdoor storage, adding more weight over the rear axle, hence considering the E450.

So my answer to the question you ask me is....I don't know.  :)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on November 29, 2015, 04:57:57 pm
Think about the load ratings you might want. I got our first PC, a 2350 on the E450 and only needed/wanted to change the shocks to Bilstein shocks. I never had to worry about how much stuff my wife packed.  :lol
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Robert G. on December 11, 2015, 10:25:17 am
would you please send the info on the water pressure tank. I just bought a used 2008-2401 PC and would like to begin some improvements. My e-mail is rfisherman1@comcast.net
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 12, 2015, 10:49:57 am
would you please send the info on the water pressure tank. I just bought a used 2008-2401 PC and would like to begin some improvements. My e-mail is rfisherman1@comcast.net
Hi Bob, I sent you an email with an attached WORD document with pictures.  Ron
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 03, 2016, 01:57:15 am
Added #31 Rear Compartment Outdoor Carpet Liner
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 08, 2016, 12:16:18 am
Added #32   Got our PC down to 3 keys, 2 less than before.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 10, 2016, 09:46:24 pm
Added #33 Upgraded Front Door Speakers With THESE (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271942845718?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT).
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 18, 2016, 08:59:09 pm
Added #34 Shallow Shelf In Bathroom Under Medicine Cabinet For Toothbrushes Toothpaste And More

The hooks are brass to match the rest of the interior.  The brushed stainless faucet will always mismatch everything else.  I had thought about painting it.

I really only wanted the two hooks to the right.  The left-most hook is using the hole leftover from the door knob from when the wood was a door.  Maybe my wife Irene will find a purpose for that left hook, like hooking her rings on during her shower and at night.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on September 19, 2016, 07:03:33 am
What, no pictures. Please post some. ;)
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 19, 2016, 07:50:42 am
What, no pictures. Please post some. ;)
Good morning Tom!

I keep adding them to the end of the original post to keep it all in one place.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Gail Staton on September 19, 2016, 08:17:08 am
Beautiful job as usual, Ron.  I admire your skills.

Gail
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: TomHanlon on September 19, 2016, 03:38:56 pm
What, no pictures. Please post some. ;)
Good morning Tom!

I keep adding them to the end of the original post to keep it all in one place.

Oops, early morning senior moment.  :-D
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 22, 2016, 02:50:11 pm
Added #35) Resolved Loosening & Rattling Of Microwave Oven
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 16, 2016, 03:16:36 pm
Added #36 Collapsible dish rack, dish tray, and cutting board working together.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 11, 2018, 01:21:23 pm
Added #37 and #38
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 17, 2018, 11:36:10 pm
Added #39
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: Ron Dittmer on September 20, 2018, 08:49:43 am
Added #40
Something I did so long ago but I never included.
Title: Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
Post by: ExStarlifter on October 15, 2018, 11:58:08 am
Wow!  Couldn't pass up some of these!  The Hanging Gravity Sewer Hose Storage Tube is currently (as of 10/15/18) on sale for $43 at Camping World.  If you can find a way to spend $7 more (and you know you will), shipping is free for all the items you purchase.

Mike