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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Macerator dead on: December 02, 2013, 12:53:29 pm
OK. It's working now.  Switch was ok.  Removing the end cover and turning with a flat-blade screwdriver cleared whatever was in it. Good lesson. Thanks guys.
17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Macerator dead on: December 01, 2013, 07:33:11 pm
Jack,

Like what you do with a garbage disposal I suppose.  I will check the back side for how to do this.
Thanks,

Dick
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Macerator dead on: December 01, 2013, 09:03:40 am
Good idea.  I will try it first.
Thanks for the offer, but Palm Beach County is too far from Satsuma to be practical.

Dick
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Macerator dead on: November 30, 2013, 07:12:38 pm
This morning I was all set up to dump, switched on the macerator pump and nothing.  No hum. No click. Nothing.

Dumped the old fashoned way.

Ok, we are back home now. I will have time to trouble shoot.  Give me some ideas like: where is the fuse? Connector? How to clear jam? How to test the motor?

Thanks and happy thanksgiving.

Dick



20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Window tint, driver and passenger side windows on: November 17, 2013, 12:51:41 pm
 Steve,

"Tinting" meaning of the type that blocks a high percentage of ultraviolet rays is a no-brainer.  Do it.

The tinted windows that come standard do not qualify. Consider them too... at least the enrty door because of the unusually high heat transfer in that area due to the metal door. 

In addition to the cab doors, you can get an almost imperceptable "tint" on the windshield with around 70% UV protection.  The only drawbacks are some optical effect with polarized glasses and concern for the use of adhesive tape .

Dick
21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: First trip on our 2350: a report on: November 12, 2013, 12:07:04 pm
Imichael,

From the official RV manufactures categories there is only: Class A, B, C... Chassis, Van, Truck.  Accordingly, we drive class C RV's. 

From a sales and marketing perspective, differentiaton is a driving force therefore the creation of product descriptors like class B+ or C- or super C.

Dick
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 12, 2013, 11:52:06 am
Bob,

You are correct, there are two 50 amp lines... commonly down each side of the coach.  As for being overkill, think about what the 40 footers need and that there is no option between 30 amp service.

Dick
23  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: How i do Ham Radio with the 2350 on: November 03, 2013, 08:41:50 am
Denny,

When I looked at a mirror mount like what you did I was dismayed.  The fancy ones on my unit make it impossible.  A ladder mount was not possible because the ladder resonates strongly around 16 MHz  and completly detunes any antenna close by.  I found continuity from the luggage rack to the frame so my mount is a whip to that bar.  For listening, it is a wire over a tree limb or cicumferentially around the roof.  I operate in the space between clothes cabinets in the bedroom - a bit cramped.

Since the Pactor modem goes back a while and internet access is so available these days, I wonder where you go that is so remote.

Dick
24  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Electrical Schematics for PC's power systems. on: October 10, 2013, 05:52:05 pm
Keelhauler

I am greatly impressed with your work on the schematics and and Bob Bander's follow-up on the breakers.  You two have filled a real need.
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: What is in the box between the propane tank and the frame? on: September 23, 2013, 08:15:39 pm
One item not covered... The transfer switch is in the wall in back of the drivers seat.
26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leveling on: September 16, 2013, 08:06:36 pm
I share the concerns of Tom Hanlon and George B. regarding front/back level.  I see differences due to torsional twisting or "sway-back" effects on some sites.  The latter is an annoying problem that causes a compression at our entry door particularly when we use blocks on the rear without levelers.  The door bangs or jams on the striker plate... sometimes enough to be really annoying when we have enter through the front doors. In the most recent case the bend in the chassis was enough to entirely prevent the door from entering into the door frame.  This effect seems to be increasing the more we use our PC.
27  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: How much lift is "too high" with HWH jacks? on: September 13, 2013, 07:43:41 pm
Bruce,

The very first time I used my HWH levelers, the tires and chocks skidded and the rig fell backwards.  Later visiting the HWH plant I found that they design with this problem in mind.  My levelers we fine only needing some adjustment as to level sensing. 

They pointed out that the emergency brakes are on the rear duals.  Lifting the rear causes a coresponding reduction of weight on the tires that may end by, as I found, falling off.  If a camp site is more than a few inches low in the rear, I will use blocks under the tires and the same amount under the jacks.  Also, I now have four of the Harbor Freight solid rubber chocks.  These are serious business. They get hammered in whenever there is any concern about lifting with the HWH jacks.

As to the front wheels the HWH guys say you can safely raise the front wheels entirely off the ground.  Since then we do it routinely.  I even add blocks in front if the levelers max out before getting level. Marge still frets about tires being in the air so I beat some blocks under the tires mostly for effect. We also use a folding step in those high situations.

Dick

28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Macerator helper on: September 02, 2013, 09:58:15 pm
The black and grey tank flush feature is great!  The only problem is when a dump station does not have a water hose or the water hose does not have a coupling at the end.  Then there is no way to hook-up for flushing.

Rather than dig out my regular hose, I use a 10 foot section of flat hose with couplers on the ends.  This makes things simpler as you can see in this photo.



When done dumping,  just connect the ends of the flat hose, loop it over the macerator hose-hooks and secure with elastic cord.  As you see here.

29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Engine break-in vs. mpg on: September 02, 2013, 08:27:21 pm
At the start of this summer's tour I had around 12,000 miles on the coach  During the trip last year the engine changed over those miles as indicated by the engine-specific calibration factor of the Scangauge.  However, fuel consumption remained at a flat, unchanging  average of 9.4 mpg.  No sign of "engine break-in" that people talk about.

This summer after 4 to 5,000 miles, the average mpg and ScanGauge calibration finally began to rise as we meandered to the West coast.  (In CA and OR the average went down. Is their gas different?).  Never-the-less, back in Florida at 25,000 miles the overall average for the tour was 9.6 mpg.  I now think "engine break-in" is real.
30  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Estimating MPG as you go on: September 01, 2013, 10:19:26 pm


Here is the handy table I use when driving. 
When the gas gauge reaches one of these marks I check the trip odometer reading to get an idea of my mpg.



Note that you burn about 3 gallons before the gas gauge needle begins to move.  Also, at the empty mark you still have at least 4 gallons reserve.
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