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16  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / HWH levelers not retracting on: June 11, 2015, 05:48:55 pm
In the last few campsites one of the levelers refused to retract.  To get it up I had to drive forward enough so it could swing up. (Yes, the levelers are designed for that).  The shiney piston part simply would not retract all the way in spite of pushing or banging on the base. If there was clearance it would extend properly for leveling but not fully retract when done. 

A search came up with the suggestion to fully extend the jack, spray WD40 generously inside the metal sleeve at the top of the piston and ,using a twig or stick, swab a paper towel around inside the metal sleeve. I did that repeatedly until the black gunk up in there was gone. That was followed by spraying WD40 all over the piston and wiping it clean of any residue. 

The jack retracted normally after this treatment and has been behaving properly since. 
17  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Simple rattle fix on: June 03, 2015, 02:05:41 pm
For years now we have been living with a particular rattle when driving.  Mainly driver's side. MCD shades were suspect hitting each other or the window frame. Velcro loop stuff made a difference but no solution.  Padding the glass tray in the microwave made a difference but no solution. Padding pots and pans... nada.  Locking the oven fan outside vents... nope.  Maybe something inside the MCD shade box?  Maybe the slide topper has something loose?  We lived with it and dreaded rough roads.

On a call-back from Kermit about pealing vinyl on drivers seat, Marge mentioned the rattle. He suggested push the slide-out button briefly. Just enough to put pressure on the mechanism but not move the slide. Eureka!  That is the solution!  What a super simple fix.
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910D vs. 2010T on: May 13, 2015, 03:53:59 pm
Your height is a problem for both the rear slideout bed and for headroom.  Other tall owners describe a bedtime configuration of sliding the "short queen" mattress down 12 to 14 inches for the feet and filling in the head space with something. This results in a "crawl-over" situation. 

Possibly a twin bed alternatitive could be reasonably close to providing enough length... if you can deal with the air conditioner(s) and light fixtures, etc. in the ceiling.
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910D vs. 2010T on: May 12, 2015, 10:58:43 pm
Yes, it is a bit awkward eating at the flip-out table.  The euro chairs are too low or the table is too high in our unit.  It reminds me of when I was a kid. We tend to pick up our plates and hold them near our mouths when eating.

When the people at the plant discovered that I had raised the chairs about two inches, they said that they could have the table unit made at any height we wanted.  I declined but really, our table should be another 2 or 3 inches lower to be about the same as the dinette we had on the previous Winnebago View.

To have a dinette requires the 2910T.  For a long time I thought that did not make much sense because you lose that sitting area under the canopy.  Now in our fourth summer trip I found that we never sit forward of the entry door so that argument is not valid.
The other awkwardness is that to sit up to the table you must slide the eurochair out sufficienty to allow the arm to clear the cabinetry that supports the table.  This means the practical eating surface is only about 16 inches wide... about half the available surface.

As for whole-body paint, we have it but I would have never ordered it because of cost but, our unit was loaded for a show - along with other things cheap-me would never order. After the fact I admit to gloating a lot because of the endless compliments we get.

20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 12 volt air compressor on: May 10, 2015, 07:55:16 pm
Home Depot has a Husky 120v, 150psi inflator on sale for $24.95.  I use it to pump the duals to 80 psi.  It has about the same moderate inflation rate as the 12v Slime unit that just failed alter 3 years. It does not get as hot either.
For faster inflation, I too am planning on getting an Avair that clips directly on a battery.
21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: trasfur swith on 2551 year 2009 on: March 16, 2015, 06:52:48 pm
It is cleverly concealed in the wall in back of the drivers seat. Use a magnet to locate the screws in the fabric covering the baseboard.
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Trik-L-Start installation on: January 30, 2015, 07:44:08 pm
You hit sensitive topic for me. Like you I used Battery Minder on my Winnebago View with great success.  The engine battery was over 7 years old when we traded and still charging around 95%.

I of course used it on the PC for a while but had to stop last summer because of endless failures to start.  The battery clamps were not making good contact.  The terminals were pitted, groved and out of round so the surface area was reduced to the extent high current could not be carried. 

The thing that is different from the Sprinter is that Ford does not use lead clamps on lead terminals. Instead they use plated copper.  The plating wore off and apparently the galvanic action of copper against lead caused the pitting.  Before this became apparent I put in a new battery.  I was absolutely stunned to find it also began to not start. It became pitted almost immediately while just sitting beside the house with the Battery Minder attached.  Because no high current was involved and because there is a high frequency desulfation component superimposed on the charging current, I speculate that this could be why the loss of plating to expose bare copper. 

I contacted the Battery Minder tech people expressing concern that the desulfation feature might be part of the problem.  They recommended replacing the plated copper clamps clamps with ordinary lead clamps.  This turns out to be extraordinarily difficult and my inept effort could only made to work by attaching an extra wire and clamp to the positive terminal.  A laughable kluge that works.

As it stands now, I will only attach the Battery Minder clamps in direct contact with the lead battery terminals after I remove the Ford clamps for storage.

23  Main Forum / General Discussion / Born Free situation on: January 29, 2015, 10:02:47 pm
Following is the article in RVBusiness:

Humboldt, Iowa-based Dodgen Industries Inc., manufacturer of Born Free Class C motorhomes, has been sold to HBF Investments, Des Moines, Iowa.
The companys new president is Jeff Butler, former head of engineering for Forest River Inc. subsidiary Dynamax, who took over Tuesday (Jan. 27). The sale for an undisclosed amount closed Jan. 14.
We were looking for an investor to take us to the next level and grow the business, said Brandon Dodgen, who formerly served as Born Free general manager and is staying on as product manager. An investment turned into a purchase.
Born Free, founded by now-retired John Dodgen in 1946, builds traditional Class C and Super C motorhomes as well as police command centers and ambulatory products.
In 2014, Born Free ranked 13th nationally in Class C sales with a .26% market share having sold 36 motorhomes, according to Statistical Surveys Inc., Grand Rapids, Mich.
Brandon Dodgen said the new owners hope to increase Born Frees market share.
We want to produce a bunch more units and grow our dealer network, he said. Our 2016 model year change happens in June. We are gearing up for that. There definitely will be some changes, but we dont know exactly what they will be yet.
24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electrical ? Issue on: October 27, 2014, 12:30:27 pm
The Ford battery connectors are not Lead but coated (zinc?) copper.  When the coating wears the connection corrodes and looses the ability to carry the high current load needed for starting while still functioning normally for all others needs.

To test if this has happened with your connectors use a separate short, heavy wire to connect the battery post to the Ford battery connector.  Leave the battery connector in place. This just provides another path for current. Spring clips work well.

25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cabinet door latches on: October 12, 2014, 07:41:32 pm


26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Future newbie with a couple questions on: October 10, 2014, 07:34:10 pm

I also have been considering towing so Item 4 is a concern.  Now that I have weights on all four corners, I can not bring myself to adding more load to the already maxed out left-rear dual. On the road all movable weight is place right-front and we always travel with empty holding tanks and only a few gallons of water in the tank under the bed.

If you go 2910D, verify that they have had body shims added to the driver side to compensate for the side weight. It will save a trip back to Elkhart.

Let me add, we very proud of our 2910D.  We gloat a lot over the comfort, good looks and interest it creates.

27  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: October 08, 2014, 07:40:22 pm

The problem I have had with 12v batteries is they at times can not last through the night running the electric fan on the gas heater.  Changing to 6v batteries solved the problem. 

The first thing I did on our PC was have them install a battery tray suitable for the taller 6v batteries.

As for your solar panel charging issue, my first thought is charging voltage.  For 12v batteries a charge voltage is around 14 v.  What do you get from your solar setup?

28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Fuse for Sanicon? on: September 15, 2014, 07:38:39 pm

This annoying situation turned up our second summer trip.  It was so common that i carried both a flat blade and phillips screwdriver in the Sanicon compartment.  At the end of our third summer trip this year I swapped them for a single double-end offset screwdriver.

29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 11, 2014, 01:44:38 pm

See my post of 10 Feb 2013 about overweight on the rear left duals after a shock from the results of weighing all four corners.

This is a real concern for me such that I NEVER FILL MY WATER TANK!  We run with only a few gallons enough to get us to the next campground.

My first clue should have been the sticker on the driver door saying 85 pounds tire inflation which is 5 pounds over-inflated according to Michelin. 

The second indication was the lean to the slide-outs (2) side which was compensated by adding shims to the springs.

I also note that my front-rear weights were within the front-rear limits.  Yours being out of limits gives me considerable concern.

30  Main Forum / General Discussion / 85 Octane on: August 20, 2014, 01:15:13 pm
Last summer I commented to the group about encountering 85 Octane "regular gas" at Cody, WY.  My feeling then was that this was a marketing gimmick to increase profit.

This summer driving coast to coast I encountered both 85 octane in the mountains and 86 octane gas in high altitude areas.   Curious, I found the following in Wikipedia so I guess this gas is legitimate.

"United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. In the Rocky Mountain (high elevation) states, 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel.[38] The reason for this is that in higher-elevation areas, a typical naturally aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle because of the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to less fuel and reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill a carbureted car that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage..."

Because my mpg was lower this summer and the engine lugged on hills and downshifted more than usual when using this gas, the following is of interest:

"Many modern engines are equipped with a knock sensor (a small piezoelectric microphone), which sends a signal to the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing when detonation is detected. Retarding the ignition timing reduces the tendency of the fuel-air mixture to detonate, but also reduces power output and fuel efficiency. Because of this, under conditions of high load and high temperature, a given engine may have a more consistent power output with a higher octane fuel, as such fuels are less prone to detonation."
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