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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: FMCA Rally in Madison WI on: July 30, 2015, 05:18:09 pm
Aha!  We saw two Phoenix Cruisers today parked and talked to someone  at the PC display who is driving a 3100. That makes four of us.
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / FMCA Rally in Madison WI on: July 29, 2015, 09:45:40 pm
The exhibit area of new coaches opened today at 5 pm.  Earl was showing three models: 2910T, 2552 and 2351.  People were swarming them to take a look.  I note that they have 6volt house batteries now for an upgrade in power capacity.

We have not seen other Phoenix Crusiers at the rally. Is anyone else attending?  We are in lot J.
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Single A/C vs. Dual A/C on: July 16, 2015, 09:56:39 am
This is our fourth summer tour in our two a/c, 50 amp 2910D.  We can handle hot weather pretty good now. The front windshield is the major source for heat followed by the all metal coach door.  

The first thing we have done is to tint the the side and front cab windows and coach door window.

Routinely, we use an outside window "bra" for average conditions. The awning helps also to keep sun off of the coach door.

In severe heat conditions we add a aluminized "space blanket" over the windshield which is held in place with magnets.  Same on the inside of the entry door.

We also have aluminized insulation cut to fit the rear window, coach door window and cab windows. These store nicely under the bed.  The $2 space blankets store sandwich bags.

You evidently are aware of the weight situation with the water tank in the rear bed slideout, but I do not see how a single air conditioner could be satisfactory in hot, sunny conditions.
34  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: HWH levelers not retracting on: June 17, 2015, 07:48:22 pm

The sequence of what levelers are raised is of no consequence.  Raising a leveler is for best access to clean the seal and piston.

However, understand that the emergency brakes are on the rear wheels. If you fully extend both rear levelers it would be advisable to securely block the front wheels so the coach cannot roll forward or backward.  Ditto if you need to raise the rear for leveling.  In this case, driving your duals up on blocks helps keep more weight on the tires .

35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Web site link needed on: June 16, 2015, 04:09:42 pm
 ThankYou"From the PC home page there is a link to the Forum home page. From the Forum home page there is no similar link back to the PC home page.

It is annoying to have to do a search to get back.  What am I doing wrong?
36  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / HWH levelers not retracting on: June 11, 2015, 05:48:55 pm
In the last few campsites one of the levelers refused to retract.  To get it up I had to drive forward enough so it could swing up. (Yes, the levelers are designed for that).  The shiney piston part simply would not retract all the way in spite of pushing or banging on the base. If there was clearance it would extend properly for leveling but not fully retract when done. 

A search came up with the suggestion to fully extend the jack, spray WD40 generously inside the metal sleeve at the top of the piston and ,using a twig or stick, swab a paper towel around inside the metal sleeve. I did that repeatedly until the black gunk up in there was gone. That was followed by spraying WD40 all over the piston and wiping it clean of any residue. 

The jack retracted normally after this treatment and has been behaving properly since. 
37  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Simple rattle fix on: June 03, 2015, 02:05:41 pm
For years now we have been living with a particular rattle when driving.  Mainly driver's side. MCD shades were suspect hitting each other or the window frame. Velcro loop stuff made a difference but no solution.  Padding the glass tray in the microwave made a difference but no solution. Padding pots and pans... nada.  Locking the oven fan outside vents... nope.  Maybe something inside the MCD shade box?  Maybe the slide topper has something loose?  We lived with it and dreaded rough roads.

On a call-back from Kermit about pealing vinyl on drivers seat, Marge mentioned the rattle. He suggested push the slide-out button briefly. Just enough to put pressure on the mechanism but not move the slide. Eureka!  That is the solution!  What a super simple fix.
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910D vs. 2010T on: May 13, 2015, 03:53:59 pm
Your height is a problem for both the rear slideout bed and for headroom.  Other tall owners describe a bedtime configuration of sliding the "short queen" mattress down 12 to 14 inches for the feet and filling in the head space with something. This results in a "crawl-over" situation. 

Possibly a twin bed alternatitive could be reasonably close to providing enough length... if you can deal with the air conditioner(s) and light fixtures, etc. in the ceiling.
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910D vs. 2010T on: May 12, 2015, 10:58:43 pm
Yes, it is a bit awkward eating at the flip-out table.  The euro chairs are too low or the table is too high in our unit.  It reminds me of when I was a kid. We tend to pick up our plates and hold them near our mouths when eating.

When the people at the plant discovered that I had raised the chairs about two inches, they said that they could have the table unit made at any height we wanted.  I declined but really, our table should be another 2 or 3 inches lower to be about the same as the dinette we had on the previous Winnebago View.

To have a dinette requires the 2910T.  For a long time I thought that did not make much sense because you lose that sitting area under the canopy.  Now in our fourth summer trip I found that we never sit forward of the entry door so that argument is not valid.
The other awkwardness is that to sit up to the table you must slide the eurochair out sufficienty to allow the arm to clear the cabinetry that supports the table.  This means the practical eating surface is only about 16 inches wide... about half the available surface.

As for whole-body paint, we have it but I would have never ordered it because of cost but, our unit was loaded for a show - along with other things cheap-me would never order. After the fact I admit to gloating a lot because of the endless compliments we get.

40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 12 volt air compressor on: May 10, 2015, 07:55:16 pm
Home Depot has a Husky 120v, 150psi inflator on sale for $24.95.  I use it to pump the duals to 80 psi.  It has about the same moderate inflation rate as the 12v Slime unit that just failed alter 3 years. It does not get as hot either.
For faster inflation, I too am planning on getting an Avair that clips directly on a battery.
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: trasfur swith on 2551 year 2009 on: March 16, 2015, 06:52:48 pm
It is cleverly concealed in the wall in back of the drivers seat. Use a magnet to locate the screws in the fabric covering the baseboard.
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Trik-L-Start installation on: January 30, 2015, 07:44:08 pm
You hit sensitive topic for me. Like you I used Battery Minder on my Winnebago View with great success.  The engine battery was over 7 years old when we traded and still charging around 95%.

I of course used it on the PC for a while but had to stop last summer because of endless failures to start.  The battery clamps were not making good contact.  The terminals were pitted, groved and out of round so the surface area was reduced to the extent high current could not be carried. 

The thing that is different from the Sprinter is that Ford does not use lead clamps on lead terminals. Instead they use plated copper.  The plating wore off and apparently the galvanic action of copper against lead caused the pitting.  Before this became apparent I put in a new battery.  I was absolutely stunned to find it also began to not start. It became pitted almost immediately while just sitting beside the house with the Battery Minder attached.  Because no high current was involved and because there is a high frequency desulfation component superimposed on the charging current, I speculate that this could be why the loss of plating to expose bare copper. 

I contacted the Battery Minder tech people expressing concern that the desulfation feature might be part of the problem.  They recommended replacing the plated copper clamps clamps with ordinary lead clamps.  This turns out to be extraordinarily difficult and my inept effort could only made to work by attaching an extra wire and clamp to the positive terminal.  A laughable kluge that works.

As it stands now, I will only attach the Battery Minder clamps in direct contact with the lead battery terminals after I remove the Ford clamps for storage.

43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Born Free situation on: January 29, 2015, 10:02:47 pm
Following is the article in RVBusiness:

Humboldt, Iowa-based Dodgen Industries Inc., manufacturer of Born Free Class C motorhomes, has been sold to HBF Investments, Des Moines, Iowa.
The companys new president is Jeff Butler, former head of engineering for Forest River Inc. subsidiary Dynamax, who took over Tuesday (Jan. 27). The sale for an undisclosed amount closed Jan. 14.
We were looking for an investor to take us to the next level and grow the business, said Brandon Dodgen, who formerly served as Born Free general manager and is staying on as product manager. An investment turned into a purchase.
Born Free, founded by now-retired John Dodgen in 1946, builds traditional Class C and Super C motorhomes as well as police command centers and ambulatory products.
In 2014, Born Free ranked 13th nationally in Class C sales with a .26% market share having sold 36 motorhomes, according to Statistical Surveys Inc., Grand Rapids, Mich.
Brandon Dodgen said the new owners hope to increase Born Frees market share.
We want to produce a bunch more units and grow our dealer network, he said. Our 2016 model year change happens in June. We are gearing up for that. There definitely will be some changes, but we dont know exactly what they will be yet.
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electrical ? Issue on: October 27, 2014, 12:30:27 pm
The Ford battery connectors are not Lead but coated (zinc?) copper.  When the coating wears the connection corrodes and looses the ability to carry the high current load needed for starting while still functioning normally for all others needs.

To test if this has happened with your connectors use a separate short, heavy wire to connect the battery post to the Ford battery connector.  Leave the battery connector in place. This just provides another path for current. Spring clips work well.

45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cabinet door latches on: October 12, 2014, 07:41:32 pm


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