Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16
1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do you leave your sink cover over the sink while driving? on: May 19, 2017, 11:10:47 am
We leave ours on, Tom, and then we put down a piece of no slip material on top of the covers.  That allows us to store small plastic baskets full of lightweight things while going down the road.  We are mindful of what is in the basket in case of emergency braking that might through stuff around a bit.  When we get where we are going and deploy the slide, we then move the stored stuff to another area (often behind the driver's seat or on the carpeted area exposed in front of the refrig with the slide out) and then have use of the sink and stove area.  When camped, we just stow the covers in the allocated slot behind the stove.   The covers are nice but they are pretty heavy. 

Paul
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Born Free Shutdown on: May 18, 2017, 09:02:55 am
I picked up on this last week and tried - just out of curiosity - to research the closing.  I could not find any source of information about it online, including looking at the local news media sites in Humboldt and the area.   Go their website and read the "About" or "History" tab ( I forgot what they call it on the site).

My interest is in just being sad at how really great small companies are struggling these days.   I owned two Roadtreks over the years and, like Born Free, they were started by one guy and built into a quality product which gained great reputations throughout North America.   Age seems to then take over in most of these situations.  The next generation of the family takes over, gets older, cashes out to so called "investors" and they often are under capitalized or simply don't grasp the nuances of the industry in which they find themselves.  The results are often, sadly, not pretty.   As I recall Roadtrek went through three owners in less than five years.  Now, it is owned by a large company from Europe.

I spent almost fifty years in finance and had the great privilege of working with a lot of entrepreneurs all over this country who built wonderful companies where service and quality were the touchstones, not increasing next quarter's profits by a fraction of a cent per share.   Time marches on and  the realities of today's economy are just not kind to these kinds of endeavors.   It is a very, very sad passage and the main reason why I hung up my spurs and went to the house as they say in the Southwest. 

I hope Born Free finds "the capital" some reports indicate they are seeking.  We shall see, but quality custom builders seem to often fall into despair when generations change.  The story of Chinook immediately comes to mind.

If it is true that Born Free is now at least temporarily closed, doesn't that only leave Phoenix Cruiser and Coach House?   No others immediately pop into my mind.

Paul 
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: May 12, 2017, 09:34:34 pm
donc13, that is a good idea on a regulator change.   At one time, I put full 80 psi water into the PC in attempt to change water flow and it did help.  You gotta be careful in hooking up because some  water supplies tend to surge and then decrease.  Besides protection, a regulator working properly should assure a rather constant psi in your plumbing.  

After I modified the disc in the faucet strainer, all now seems to be acceptable.  It just increased the water flow quite a bit.  

I may take your thought and buy a regulator like you linked.   Would you believe my regulator is solid, real brass and made in the USA?  That tells you how many years (and rigs) I have used it.  It tests out to work perfectly, but an adjustable regulator would be nice.  

Paul
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: May 11, 2017, 05:28:16 pm
UPDATE

2 Frazzled got me on track!!  I checked the tubing and connections from the fill connection up to the outside shower head.  No problems found.  The shower puts our a more reasonable amount of pressure than either sink.  The shower in the bath puts out fairly decent pressure.  The plumbing for the outside shower, the shore input and the lines to the bathroom sink can easily be traced in the cabinet under the sink by removing a panel.  

This morning, our home water pressure was 90 psi. It was mid morning and the pressure was higher than our normal 80 pounds.  I rechecked the inlet backflow check valve, my hose regulator (reduced the 90 psi to 45 psi) and rechecked the water flow at the sinks. it still is a lower flow than it should be in my opinion.  

Then, I recalled when we moved into this house years ago, the shower head put out a lower flow than we wanted.  I remember I took the thing apart and redrilled the hole in the end of it slightly larger and got more water flow.  So, thinking about that, I removed the end of the kitchen faucet (the part that has the flow aerator and screen).  Inside there is a small plastic disc that has a hole in the center 1/8 inch in diameter.  That reduces water flow and stops surging.   Well, both of mine in the sinks now have a disc enlarged to 3/16 diameter because that is the size bit I used to drill it out larger.  

The result was a significant increase in water flow at the sinks.  Now, as to the shower, I never use the outside shower.  Never have used it.  The shower head in the bathroom was replaced when we first got this rig with a sink sprayer like this https://www.amazon.com/LDR-501-6200-Sprayer-Replacement/dp/B000I1AQWI

That is an old Class B trick.  They are instant on and off and don't drip like most shower heads.  Class Bs can have pretty small tanks and these things can save a lot of water when boondocking because they don't drip.  I modified it slightly by taking it apart and drilled the water passage way a little larger.  

Now, I think we can do just fine hooked up to water, although the water flow  when on the pump is still a little greater than when using shore water.  

Problem solved!  Now, on to a few other things prior to going on trip for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for everyone's input.


Paul
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Four-year-old tire failure after 14,000 miles on: May 05, 2017, 07:23:02 pm
I also think Don is on target in his comment above.  By the way, besides monitoring the pressure I carry a thermometer like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Kitchen-Dining-Infrared-Thermometers/zgbs/kitchen/9931459011

and I check the temperature of each tire when we pull over to rest stops, buy gas, etc.  Particularly in hot weather this is important in my view.  What I am looking for is not the temperature itself so much as a difference in temperature among the six tires.   Air pressure can be constant and appear to be just fine but if a tire is failing it will get hotter than normal.   It only takes a few seconds per tire and I also check the pressure every few hundred miles because I don't have one of the wireless pressure monitoring system although I probably should have one. 

I am also very sensitive when traveling in hot areas of the country in the summer season to the fact that hot roads can heat tires and cause pressure to raise significantly.  70 psi in the rear four becomes 75-78 pretty darn easily when the July temperature is 100+.

Paul
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: May 01, 2017, 09:08:23 am
No, its not the regulator.  As I mentioned in a reply to Tom above, I have already tried what he suggested and that is a full force feed.  My house pressure is 80 psi and that is twice the pressure that most rv hose regulators allow (40psi).  

I think I will pull out the bed and support structure again and put back pressure on it as has been suggested by a couple of posters.  Ron, I think I will use air at first shot to avoid a mess with water.  I will remove the check valve, of course, and then put a 100 psi air pressure on the piping and see if anything comes out.  

I don't think it is calcium or anything like that or it should be visible also on the faucet screens at the sinks and they are spotless.   Besides, I flush our system after every trip and don't leave water in the system.   I learned a lot about calcium in the home we previously lived in for twenty years.  It was an acreage on the edge of town with a water well and the water was full of lime and calcium.  That stuff can shut plumbing down rather quickly if not filtered or treated.   Believe me, I know!  

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I will back flush with air and or water on the supply plumbing and see what happens and report. Again, on the pump all is just fine.

It actually looks like we can put the boats away and enjoy a week of normal sun shiny days so this is a good week to figure this out. 

Paul
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: April 30, 2017, 06:44:09 pm
Jack, there is a check valve for back flow built into the inlet which mounts on the outside of the PC and provides the female hose connection.  I replaced it and tested it before I installed it.  The replacement was necessitated by that valve leaking and allowing water to drip out when the hose was disconnected.   No problem there.  

Tom, yep this baby was only owned for eleven months prior to our purchasing it coming up on four years ago.  Since we boondock 95% of the time this problem is not a constant irritant but I would like to fix it.  Your approach was the same as mine:  blow that baby out with a little more pressure.   We have 80 psi of water pressure here at our home (like I mentioned I have a water pressure gauge with a female hose connection input).  I hooked it up, opened the sink in the bathroom fully and  then turned on the water so as not to "jerk" the piping when pressurized.  I got a little more pressure but not much more.  To me, that indicates a kink or some kind of obstruction.

Jack, I don't think I can fish along that line because it probably  makes a 90 degree turn behind the corner of the shower wall and my fish might puncture something or nick some of the wires that trace in that direction.  

I may call the factory as suggested.   Yes, the great thing about a PC is the responsiveness of the folks long after the sale.  This rig going on five years old (hard for me to believe but time marches on) but I suspect nothing has really changed in the routing in that time period.   I may also watch the videos on the PC site where they show a build on the model.  Maybe I can get a better indication of the routing.  As a last resort, I could reroute the supply line under the unit and insulate it with pipe insulation but that is not a very good alternative fix.  Some future owner may be braver than yours truly and camp out a lot in freezing weather.  Low pressure is better than frozen pipe.

On the positive side this is a great excuse to buy some PEX tools Cheer

Paul
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: April 30, 2017, 01:41:03 pm
Water switch?   Do you mean a valve that allows you to switch from outside source usage to filling the tank?  If so, I don't think my unit has such a valve control.  I am familiar with them because I had them on other coaches over the years.   If I have one, I don't have a clue where it is located and it is not readily visible.  

Does anyone else have a 2013 (or perhaps a year or two earlier) model 2350 and do you have such a valve?

EDITED:  just found a youtube where Earl demonstrates the referenced valve and refers to it as "new for 2014".  My PC is a 2013, so no such valve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10mJ0OOFZAU

Paul
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Low water pressure when hooked up on: April 30, 2017, 11:23:31 am
We seldom camp where hookups are available but when we do we still use the pump and water supply from our fresh tank, refilling it as needed with the campground water.  Why?  Because we don't have very good pressure if we are hooked up directly to the campground water supply.

Now, I have checked out just about everything.  I have a water pressure gauge I carry that has a female hose connection attached.  I can check water pressure at the source, at the end of the hose after the water supply has gone through my regulator and hose, etc.  Water pressure is 40 psi at the end of my hose, exactly as it should be.  The pressure of the water coming out in the sinks in our 2013 PC 2350 is about 1/3rd of the pressure with our pump and is essentially not usable for showering, etc.  

I have checked the filter screen in the input connection on the PC.  As a matter of fact, the original back flow check valve failed and I replaced that with a new input connection and a new check valve.  They work perfectly.   I have removed the bed and accessed the plumbing underneath.  I have checked for kinks in the plumbing lines, crimps, everything on every pipe that is accessible.  No problems.  

The only conclusion I can come up with is that the supply line is crimped or impeded somewhere behind the wall between the hose input connection and the accessible/viewable plumbing.   Please remember the pressure is low at all outlets:  both sinks, toilet, shower, and outside shower....every outlet.   SO....the problem must be in the main supply line somewhere and I have just about given up.  I don't intend to tear out the shower walls to try to find it!

Does anyone have any thought or has anyone experienced a similar problem?    I assume the plumbing routing will differ from model to model.  

The whole system works perfectly fine with the water pump.

Paul
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2017 version slide out - a River Runs Thru It? on: April 22, 2017, 11:48:20 am
jatrax, I am sorry you have gone through all this misery.  When you spend this much for something and are as dedicated to defining what you wanted as you have been, it must be disappointing.....very disappointing.  

I am sorry to say this, but I suspect virtually all rv manufacturers are doing well right now business wise and so things get a bit more rushed than when business is a little slower.   Same thing for the sub assembly and parts such as refrigerators, shades,  heaters, air, etc.  

I love to go to rv shows and kick tires.  I notice a distinct decline in quality of assembly and parts over the last couple of years in virtually all manufacturers.  Those old rigs were built like tanks but now......different story.   Less is more is also a factor often for quality.   I feel lucky that I can do all my own maintenance and upkeep on the rig itself, but I won't touch the chassis stuff.   That is the local garage down the street.  I just don't have the knowledge base and know it.  

We have had few problems with our 2013 and are very pleased with its quality.   We had a 2007 Roadtrek 210P Class  B prior to this PC and the RT was a study in how to build something right.  If you could have put wings on it you would have been comfortable at 250 knots and 10,000 feet.   I looked at the new Roadtreks recently.  No comparison in quality of construction and finite finish compared to our old 2007.   Phoenix has a real advantage in that they are owned by the folks that run the joint and are extremely responsive.  Roadtrek, like many, has been flipped three times in the last few years...from the family that started it in the 70s and ran it through about 2010.   Now, it is owned by a European RV manufacturer.   After being flipped by a couple of "private equity" groups.  

Hang in there.  I bet you have identified virtually all the bugs.

And catsaplenty shouldn't have to have a leak in the slide.  I tilt our rig a bit so that the shower drains better.  That is the opposite of the tilt needed to keep water out of the slide apparently.  So far, our slide has been water good whether extended or retracted.  I do service it every spring to just make sure it hopefully stays that way.

Paul
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electric Awning Question on: April 22, 2017, 11:32:46 am
We bought our 2350 eleven months old.  I thought we got all the manuals but the strap is news to me.  Could someone please describe what it looks like and how/where to use it in the awning doesn't retract?   Pictures, anyone? 

Paul
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Got "Bob" home on: April 08, 2017, 07:54:36 pm
Garmp, I have posted about these sun screens for the windshields on this forum in the past.   I think they are pretty great and for less than fifty bucks. 

https://eclipsesunshades.net/
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Furnace not working on: April 04, 2017, 08:05:16 am
Is it just me or do others long for the good ole days when all these rv appliances were simple?  Furnaces didn't have a "motherboard".  They had mechanical controls that seemed to never fail.  Air conditioners were a compressor and a coil or two.  They never had problems.  It just seems to me these things have gotten TOO complex and vulnerable.  Our first RV water heater was lit with a match!

Remember that old Sears Roebuck washing machine or dishwasher that lasted twenty years and had mechanical dials?   I don't mean to live in the past but all these safety/convenience/expensive devices just tend to devolve into hassle IMO.  But I guess we have no choice......or go buy a twenty year old rig and restore it. 

Paul
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Nexgrill on: April 04, 2017, 07:59:30 am
Like keelhauler, I have used that little Coleman Grill Stove for about ten years now.  I bought it for the small space required when we had a Class B Roadtrek.  I also carry a Coleman single burner and with the two of them we can cook just about anything our little hearts desire.  Disposable LP gas makes more sense to me than being tethered by an umbilical gas hose to a big bottle or the rv LP source.  If we are just making coffee or warming some soup or something, I only pull out the single burner.  Full meals bring out both.

Since we boondock mostly and for many days at a time, we have to plan all the cooking and supplies rather carefully. 

Paul

15  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Cargo Carrier on a 2400 on: April 01, 2017, 07:53:19 pm
We used a cargo carrier for many years prior to owning the PC.  It really was great for our Roadtrek Class B.  Always assuming the worst and expecting the best, I used ratchet straps  something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Strength-Appliances-Equipment-Motorcycle/dp/B00JLFI5IO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491090337&sr=8-5&keywords=ratchet+straps

I modified the carrier to fit the unique needs of the Roadtrek and I built "sideboards" on it out of 1x8 pressure treated wood which were bolted in place but removable if need be.  I also bought some reflective tape and put across the back of it just for dolling it up and perhaps increasing the probability that Billy Bob behind me would take note of the carrier's presence.  If you really want to spend some dough and buy something really keen take a look here:

https://www.stowaway2.com/

I always wanted one of these but the Roadtrek configuration gave me pause.  I would have had to use a twelve inch hitch extender to accommodate the spare tire continental kit on the Roadtrek.   
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16