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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 24, 2017, 08:43:17 am
The closer to level the tow bar can be adjusted the better the tow and the fewer problems.  Here is a word of warning:  it happened to me.   I had never towed a car in my life behind a motorhome until we got our PC a few years ago.   The towbar when first installed was significantly inclined up from the PC to the Jeep.  Corrected that with a really heavy duty riser.  Next the safety cables on the tow bar.

Now, like I said, I was a complete neophyte as far as towing a car although I had towed some trailers.  The mistake was the safety cables were too short to allow a sharp turn.  First tow, I pull out of my own driveway and buckled one of the arms on the towbar because the cable on that side was too short to allow the turn.  Once the damage was done, it was obvious to me what my mechanical mistake was.  So, longer safety cables and repairing the damaged tow bar came next.  Other than that first timer mistake, no other problems.   Three hundred extra bucks of expense because I simply didn't know to be mindful of that cable length being adequate.   Live and learn.  I pass along my error and hope it may prevent others from the same simple possibility. 

2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 22, 2017, 01:24:58 pm
I am towing a 4000 pound vehicle with my 2350 on a Ford 350 chassis with lighter capacities than your 450.  Yes, your rig is a four feet longer but I don't think you have a worry.  We fill the Cherokee with all sorts of camping junk with the back seats laid flat.  Couple of hundred pounds worth.  The only time I am really cognizant of towing it is on a really steep mountain pass.  

And when I try to approach a gasoline pump.  You gotta kinda choose your spots to refill your PC unless you unhitch.   You can't make a very wide swing.  

3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizeing on: March 19, 2017, 07:21:20 pm
I drain the pink stuff out completely, put a couple of gallons of water in the tank and then pump it through all the faucets.  Then, I do like Ron.  I put a couple of cups of bleach in the tank and then fill it up to the rim with the hose turned on full to force as much water as fast as possible down into the tank to agitate the bleach and water together.   Then, I pump some of this solution through every faucet, shut off the pump and leave the bleach solution in there overnight or sometimes even a little longer.  Then, I drain it out completely with the three drain valves.   Then, refill with fresh water and off I am done.  

Unlike Tom, I open the hot water heater bypass valve and fill that tank also with the bleach solution.   By the way, when bypassed and winterized, I leave the drain plug in the tank out of the tank all winter.  Also, I use a wand made for the purpose to thoroughly wash out the tank prior to refilling in the spring.   Now, with the PC aluminum tanks that don't have an anode like the older tanks this is not so much necessary.  In my other rigs over the years, I left the anode out all winter and I rinsed it at the end and beginning of the camping season with the wand sprayer.

I will add further that we do not drink water out of the PC system.  We buy and carry bottled water replenishing it as we use it.  Just got into that habit over thirty years ago and that is we do.   Some of the places we go the water may or may not be to peachy and we figure why take a chance for less than a buck a gallon for generic water from the grocery store.

Pau l
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Every little bit of storage counts on: March 18, 2017, 12:17:16 pm
I check my spare at the beginning and in the middle of the travel season.   Folks might be observant of the retaining nut on the inside of the cover (the one that holds on the lock and handle hardware).  Mine had worked really loose.  I should have put some thread lock on it before I tightened it back up.  You really have to remember that this is a fiberglass or similar material that the cover is cast in and can break fairly easily.  Also, you can chip the paint easily on the cover when removing it if you are not mindful.  

I do think, however, it is a neat place to put the spare and thus create the bump out on the back of the coach.  That allows also for the big door and shallow storage area back there.  Pretty cool design, really.  That bump out and "continental kit a la Phoenix" makes a PC very distinctive from the back.   Take a look at most Cs and what you see is box of Premium Saltine Crackers on its side with six wheels under it.  

5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Every little bit of storage counts on: March 17, 2017, 07:46:53 pm
Going over our PC2350 today doing all my annual maintenance stuff.  

I took off the spare tire cover to check the spare's pressure and thought I would pass along what else is back there.  Many may do this also, but if you don't it is a thought for you.  I keep a heavy duty long length set of jumper cables and a fifteen foot spare water hose (for the macerator pump/dump) wrapped around the steel tube that supports the spare tire.  I haven't needed either since we got the PC three plus years ago but you never know....particularly the jumpers.  It is a great place to keep those two seldom needed items.   Exterior storage in our PC is limited so every little bit helps.  Also the interior of that metal tube is a neat place to keep something small that is seldom needed, maybe a can of Slime or something like that.  Emergency type stuff.  

6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Leak after dewinterizing on: March 10, 2017, 10:06:34 am
Yesterday was 80 degrees and it is time for me to dewinterize and get ready to take several nice trips this spring, summer and fall in our PC2350.   I believe in overdoing winterization.  It got down to -3 here this winter on one occasion even if the Jan-Feb temp average set an old time high since record keeping began in 1895.  

When I winterize, I blow out all the lines and use about twice as much RV antifreeze as is recommended.  I double check everything.   So, I was surprised to notice water dripping out  from under the side of the coach after I flushed and pressurized the system.  It appeared to be coming from an area a foot or so aft of the hot water tank.   After removing the kitchen drawers and access panels, I could see the drip from the sewer pipe coming from the sink and assumed it was in a pipe joint.  I use a small plumbers helper to push out all the water in the P traps when winterizing and put almost a quart of antifreeze down the sink to protect the Ps and the excess just runs in the black tank to protect it a bit.   I was surprised it was leaking in those joints.  

Well, it wasn't.  For some reason the sink hose sprayer was not shutting off when pressurized and was dripping down the hose, dropping onto the sewer pipes, running about 20 inches and then puddling on the floor then leaking out to the outside.  

The moral of the story is:  before you assume the worst, check the simple solutions.  Those spray head are NOTORIOUS for leaking.  It was not broken, not frozen, just decided to leak.  It was full of "pink stuff" but for whatever reason it leaked.   So, a few bucks at Lowes or HD and I am good to go.  

The truth is there is a lot to go wrong in a motorhome.  Regardless of the meticulous manner of construction and maintenance, it is a house going down the road at 70 mph.  

Check the simple stuff first before you spend an hour taking out access panels, removing drawers and cabinet doors, standing on your head and saying naughty words.   KISS Embarrassed

7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: First night camping on: March 10, 2017, 09:29:04 am
jatrax, sorry for your experiences on the first day of camping in your new rig.  

I distinctly remember our first round of "experiences".  We were young, stupid and bought a used Class C that had been setting for tooooooo long.   Off we went.  Oklahoma City to Mesa Verde National Park (800 miles).  That old Chevy started  cutting out between Clayton and Raton, New Mexico.  Today, it is just a long good highway, about 90 miles, but back then it was just a narrow, desolate,  beat up road.  It got better the next morning and off we went across Colorado to Mesa Verde.  We were driving it around on top of the mesa and it just quit.  Nothing.  Hours later, we got a tow truck to tow us thirty miles into Cortez for "repairs" and the only person there that would work on it was the guy that owned the salvage yard.   It was a gasoline problem and he was allergic to gasoline.  

The story resulted in spending our fifth wedding anniversary (the purpose of the trip in the first place) in a not so nice motel. We moved some furniture in front of the door so it could not be opened and that tells you about the place.   The rest of the story is too long for this forum, but let me just say our first adventures in RV World all have horror stories.   That was thirty-six years ago and we have had a hoot telling the story in detail over the years, usually around a campfire or over drinks.  The story, I find, expands in my telling with two or more Bombay on the rocks.  

Hang in there.   We have all been there.

8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Hose length on: February 20, 2017, 07:27:50 pm
I carry a couple of 25 footers.  I need both of them occasionally and have them when I need them.  Virtually every Walmart along your travels has basic RV supplies like hoses, connections, dump hoses, toilet paper, tank chemicals etc. 

9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Check your macerator pump on: February 19, 2017, 08:30:17 am
ragoodsp, I thought perhaps that had occurred (bumping it on something)  but when I made the repairs I took the pump into my shop, cleaned it and examined it carefully.  There was not a scratch on it.  So, the only conclusion I could make was that the misalignment (which was obvious when I put a straight edge from the pump to the plumbing) over time and rough roads had something to do with it.  When I modified the C clamp discussed above, the pump was resting about a quarter of an inch lower in the clamp to achieve an inline lineup.

In reality, who knows what mischief was at work?   

10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Check your macerator pump on: February 17, 2017, 10:26:48 pm
Ron, you are right on target with my thoughts.  I did modify the U strap in such a manner as to accomodate a little "give" and essentially dampen vibration.  The best solution would probably be a rubber hose between the bayonet's receiver and the sewage piping, but that would be a really major project.  As I recall, my previous rig (Roadtrek Class B 210) had such a short rubber piece of tubing to connect the pvc sewage pipe to the the macerator, thus absorbing all the vibration/give.   

On my Roadtrek, I had a macerator discharge hose split after a few years use.  It failed, of course, while I was running the pump dumping the tanks.  The split was perfectly soak my right leg at about the knee level.   Montrose, Colorado.  July, 2010.  You remember times and places for "certain memorable events".   rolling on the floor

11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Check your macerator pump on: February 17, 2017, 04:05:38 pm
I love the Sanicom system on our PC but it has a design that seems to me to be trouble waiting to happen.  Or, maybe, I just was unlucky.  The Thetford pump is supported on our PC by a U bracket below the system access door.  The location of the bracket (which looks like something PC probably makes for their rigs) was just a little off kilter resulting in a not quite right alignment and apparently put a bit of a strain on the connection between pump mounting bracket and the pvc pipe coming from the tanks.  Given a few thousand miles of vibration going down the road, the mounting on the pump (which is a bayonet) failed.  The result was  leakage of fluid at the point where the pump joins the piping.  There is an O ring at this point between the pipe and the pump bayonet.  

The problem is the bayonet.  It has four ears and three of the four on my pump failed.  Failed is a nice word.  Those suckers broke off leaving the pump attached to the  pipe with only one of the four appendages.  

I took the whole shebang apart this beautiful (sunny and 70F) day and took it into my shop, cleaned it, modified it and reinstalled.  I put a good sealant all around the joint and that will obviously have to be scrapped off if I ever replace the pump, which I doubt.  This is our second RV with a macerator and if you take care (particularly to use a hair trap on the drain in the shower and not put really dumb things down the gray drains in the sinks) they give great service in my experience.  

I add all this to the forum to simply caution my fellow PCers to consider visually checking the integrity of the bayonet on their rigs when they do their spring "gettin' ready to go" stuff.  

Researching this on several Class C forums, I find I am not the only one to have had the problem.  The bayonet is simply under structured from a design standpoint.   Competing (non Thetford) pumps used in RVs apparently use a threaded attachment as opposed to the bayonet.  

12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pre-purchase PC inspections on: February 10, 2017, 09:16:01 am
I cannot answer your question directly but I can tell you I have checked out some locally "for sale" rigs for folks far away that found something online for sale near me.   These were people I had "met" on the forums and were mostly Bs.   I would have them call the owner and make arrangements for me to call him so he/she would know I was legitimate and I would drive over to the unit, check it out, take pictures and email my findings back to the interested party.  

I have only done this for people after talking to them on the phone and determining they were not tire kicking, because sometimes the rigs were fifty miles away.  I enjoyed doing that and helping out a fellow traveler.......after I made sure everyone was on the up and up about the deal.  

I see that the OP is in Anacortes and that is a "fer spell" of distance from Elkhart.  Maybe some PC owner near the factory could help you??

13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: House batteries on: February 10, 2017, 09:10:02 am
I don't know about the 2012 Sprinter 2350, but I replaced our coach batteries last year on our 2013 Ford 2350 with two deep cycle golf cart batteries I bought at Sams Club for about $115 each. 

Our PC was eleven months old when we bought it from the first owner.  They were new to rving and I suspect they simply had zero knowledge of battery care/maintenance.  On our previous rig, I got five years out of a couple of sixes. 

I had zero trouble getting the batteries out of the 2350 and new ones back in but it is a little tight in there.  And those are not light weight batteries.  Battery discussions always bring in all the high dollar battery lovers but I am just a cheap sort of guy.  With care and observation of maintenance I have always gotten good service out of coach batteries.  Probably 80% of our use of the PC is in boondocking so monitoring and maintenance become important fast.  I buy all our batteries at Walmart or Sams.

14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Parts list? on: February 02, 2017, 08:53:05 am
Other than the obvious small tools and an assortment of screws and small bolts I carry an assortment of tape, including Gorilla Tape.  I also carry a windshield crack kit like this:

We seem to get a ding on our windshield more often than I want to think about because of some of the places we travel.  Follow the instructions precisely and you may be amazed at the results. 

Also, Gorilla Glue.  Don't leave home without it!   For years, I must admit, I have carried a lot of emergency stuff that I have never used and it takes up lots of space.  I should have typed for decades, not years sad

15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thanks on: February 02, 2017, 08:46:31 am
Gail, thanks for all of your help to me and others on this forum.  Enjoy your return to a B and your test drive to SSC (Sunny Southern California).  In a B, the journey is more than half of the fun of any trip. 

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