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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do I Need A New Sanicon Macerator? on: October 17, 2014, 05:52:25 pm
Ron, that looks to me like a couple of blades on the impeller sheared off.  

You can buy a repair kit like in your picture and rebuild it.  Assuming the pump is original to the unit and has seen a lot of use,  you can buy a new whole shebang and be done with it for a reasonable price.  I usually get stuff like that from Amazon.  Even though it has had good maintenance and gentle use those plastic parts do tend to deteriorate over the years and seem to get a little brittle.  

I repaired the pump on our previous RV.  It was located underneath and near the middle of the Class B Roadtrek.  I had the Roadtrek elevated on a couple of 2x10s and could barely squeeze my 180 pounds under it in my driveway    You talk about a mess.  I felt like Ralph Kramden in the old "Honeymooners" working down in the sewer.  When we bought our PC, one of the things that I loved was the position of that easy to get to pump  sad
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cabinet door latches on: October 14, 2014, 12:08:03 pm
We have now had our 2350 for 13 months and love it!   Every motorhome we have had over all the years had a similar problem:  poor latches.  Prior to the PC, we had a 2007 Roadtrek 210P which gave us almost eight years of service with hardly any problems at all (other than normal maintenance) with the sole exception of .........latches and hinges.   Our 2350 has experienced two broken, one stuck (sprayed with silicon and that helps a little) in a short period of time.  

I often have wondered:  when these things cost as much as they do, why not just add a hundred bucks or so when they are made and provide good latches?   Everyone that has had virtually any rv has had this problem and it seems to be getting worse because of cheap Chinese copies of good USA products.   It just doesn't seem the place to cheapo out for a little savings.  OR, just maybe, there are so few quality makers of hardware remaining that there simply are no choices. They may, alas, be a fact.

By the way, I carry two or three 98 cent roller latches you can buy at Walmart and use them for a quick substitute when camped and away from a source of a better product.   It takes about five minutes to install and a happy life is a happy wife Cheer

Paul
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC vs.Nexus on: September 08, 2014, 03:28:40 pm
This thread brought back a memory.  My dad was a merchant and had a store on Main Street in a county seat town.   He had a sign above his desk he told me to memorize, and I have never forgotten it.   " WE KNOW OTHERS SELL FOR LESS.   THEY KNOW WHAT THEIR STUFF IS WORTH. "

Memorizing that sign has saved me a lot of grief in the six decades since I first saw it. 

Paul

4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I broke my step on I seventy six, doda doda day on: September 04, 2014, 07:22:52 pm
We go to Estes almost yearly.   We love the Dunraven Inn and the Twin Owls for dinner.   Both have a good menu and a lot of history. 

Paul
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / 2350 Corner Bed sheets on: September 01, 2014, 09:01:31 am
We found these sheets on Amazon and ordered a set to try to help solve the perpetual corner bed problems.   The sheets were made by a small company in South Carolina and we found them to be very well made indeed.   The fact that the set was specifically designed for a Winnie View made us wonder how it would work for our PC 2350.  The View has a curved slice corner whereas the PC corner is straight and slanted.  The good news is they worked very well for us and better than any other thing or method we have tried.   My wife was surprised at how well they worked and the high quality.   The slight difference in dimensions from the View to the PC didn't present a problem, at least for us.  The construction of the bottom of the top sheet is that it has elastic sewn around to keep the sheet in place and prevent slipping.  Read the full description on Amazon for more complete info.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9SEKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paul
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Power step on: August 30, 2014, 11:21:57 am
We have just returned this week from two weeks in our PC and toward the end of the trip, we experienced the step problem.   She no go.  The problem was in the door switch as explained above in the thread.   I lubricated the switch with silicon and that took care of the difficulty.  When we got home this week, I crawled under and took a good look and I was rather surprised to see that the underside of the entry into the PC was beginning to rust and discolor all over.  Also, the wiring to the step had been wrapped with electrical tape, which was in the process of unwrapping.  Given the position of the step and wiring, it doesn't take much to figure out that a few wet roads and a few thousand miles of road speed air flow will torture that kind of wiring harness.  

I don't have time to work on the rig this week but next week I am going to do at least three things:

                                                   1.  Fully encapsulate the back of the push button switch with silicon caulk to protect it from dirt and moisture.  
                                                   2.  Clean the rusting/discolored underside of the entryway from the bottom and paint it with a primer and paint to prevent future problems.
                                                   3.   Use a wiring harness cover on the step wiring to protect it and not rely on ten cents worth of electrical tape.   Here is what I am will use:
                                                         http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-x-7-ft-protective-wire-wrap-66986.html

I think I will check all the under chassis wiring on the PC while I am doing this job.

Paul
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: August 27, 2014, 01:26:07 pm
Just a report on the performance of my two Renogy panels discussed earlier in this thread.

Two weeks just completed of boondocking high in the Rockies (mostly above 9,000 feet) and lots of useage of the electrical system and solar panels for recharging.   I could not be more pleased with this addition.  Even on the days when it was mostly cloudy our batteries stayed adequately charged.  I monitored the system frequently to make sure how the panels were working.  The heater (a real power eater) was used quite a bit since it was generally in the mid to high 30s in the mornings.  We were camped in a couple of spots on this trip and the rig was in the shade for over half the day, sunny for half the day (on good weather days).    We did change campsites from Colorado to New Mexico (one week in each state), so a couple of hundred miles driving assisted the charge.   

All those years we did this and fretted about battery levels are now history.  Solar is great!

Paul
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Small, quiet electric heater suggestions??? on: August 27, 2014, 01:17:42 pm
I have used Vornado heaters for a couple of decades now and they are really great.  The cyclonic circulation of the heat makes all the difference in the world in whole room comfort.  Alas, like Pelonis and I guess all the others, they are no longer manufactured in the US.  Originally, they were built right outside of  Wichita, Kansas and were of the highest standards.   Now:  China just like all the rest. 

So, if you ever find an old one at a yard, garage or estate sale buy it!
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: August 06, 2014, 07:06:40 pm
Thanks to those on this forum and this thread I have been alerted to a real problem---the sheet metal screws that could pierce the hose. 

I checked our 2350 today and sure enough, one of those little screw ends was almost against the hose and would be with only a little  vibration or movement of the hose.   SO, I twisted the hose from its existing position where it connects to the pump, adjusting it about 15 degrees to move it away from the screw.  Then, I cut two pieces each about 1/2 inch long of insulation from a #12 wire and forced the little piece of plastic insulation (which is now is just a small piece of tubing) over each screw end.  They fit very tight and I suspect will be there from now on.   I was packing for a trip and didn't want to take the time to replace the screws with small stove bolts.

Paul
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: July 29, 2014, 08:58:44 am
Bruce, that is incredible! 

You know, I have actually considered several ways to slightly restrict the output from the pump in order to reduce the pressure on the hose.  Easiest would be to restrict by reducing the diameter of the output at the pump going into the hose.  That could be done with a couple of pvc connections of a smaller size at the pump.  Then, the amount of discharge would be reduced thus reducing the pressure to avoid the sprays and as much stretching.  My fear is the backpressure on the pump would not be good for it over time.  I even thought of reducing the voltage at the pump down to 9-10 volts, but that can cause its own problems. 

So, I always make sure the valves are open and the hose is in the disposal receptacle at the dump station before I turn on the pump so as to eliminate ANY restriction or back pressure when I turn it on.   By the way, I carry one of those water pond hoses I mentioned in my earlier post in the spare tire area of the PC.  It fits fine there and if I need it, I got it.  You can buy 3/4 inch and 1" hose for this purpose and the 1" is what you need.

I discharge at home into my sewer clean out trap which is a hundred feet from where the PC can be parked.  I bought a hundred feet of 3/4" heavy duty garden hose at Tractor Supply a few years ago and keep the hose for that purpose......only that purpose of course!   The fact these little pumps will shoot sewage a hundred feet speaks to the pressures involved and gives greater appreciation for leak potential in that little thin hose. 

Paul

Paul
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: July 28, 2014, 07:37:07 am
Previously to owning the 2013 PC 2350 we had a 2007 Roadtrek 210P and I had lots of problems with the macerator hose.  It was crammed (literally) into a very small storage area and subject to some severe bends and road heat the way it is designed.  I love the design on the PC.  I have fixed pinholes with RV GOOP, by cutting and using PVC flex pipe connections, and hose replacement.  It was such a problem I carried stretch tape, GOOP, connections, etc. for emergency repairs.

By the way:  if you have a hose get really bad when you are on the road, pull into Lowes or Home Depot and buy an outdoor water landscaping pond hose.  Twenty feet long, less than twenty bucks, same ID as the regular macerator hose.   Not nearly as good a hose but flexible and will work.  When I sold our RT, it had this hose on it and it had given us good trouble free use for three years.  The design is similar to the supplied and proper hose but not as flexible and not the quality but in an emergency, works just fine.  Those of us that have been sprayed are very sensitive and mindful about this hose LOL

Paul
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Ford 350/450 shifting advice on: July 16, 2014, 06:36:54 pm
I am curious about others experience with the Ford vehicles when in mountains.   Our 2350 is pulling a Jeep Cherokee which weighs about 4044 curb pounds.   I am surprised how the V10 seems to really pull down on mountain passes, granted they are Rocky Mountain passes where I have experienced this and I am towing.  After one trip in June (and planning another in August) we will probably just unhook the Jeep and my wife will drive it up the passes.  We will be boondocking above 10,000 feet so I am not talking hills LOL

Here is my question.   Do most PC owners use the tow/haul mode which, as I understand it, just changes the shifting points, or do they not use it and just use the downshift from the standard drive position, as well as engine speed to maintain momentum.  Our last Class C  was a 450 and this is a 350 and we were not towing.  I was down to 25 mph going up Bobcat Pass in Northern New Mexico last month.   Maybe that is just the way it is?  Our most previous RV was a Roadtrek Class B 210 with the Chevy 6.0L

ALSO...I have read in some places that the V10 is designed to develop max torgue at 4500-5000 rpms.  Is that correct?   I read on another forum a discussion that indicated that was no problem, but I always hate to "cram" an engine. 

Any experiences, direction or suggestions you could give me would be appreciated. 

Paul
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: July 15, 2014, 09:33:46 pm
Today I installed another panel, this time using the Renogy flexible 100 watter racephoto mentions in the post immediately above.  This thing only weighs four pounds!  Hooked the existing Renogy 100 watt panel together with this one with some Y connectors from Amazon.  

Put this down with 3M VHD mounting tape.  WOW.  First time I had used that stuff.  It is like contact cement from the standpoint that you don't get second chances!  It was in the high 70s here today and full sun.  I was amazed how the charging (amps) went up because, of course, it just doubled.  The PC has been in the storage garage since June 15, so the coach batteries would have naturally not been fully charged.  I was pumping 13.7 volts into the batteries and they charged fully very quickly.   The little Renogy controller that came in the kit with the first panel I installed seems to be working very well.  

The first two weeks of June we were boondocking and the one panel really worked great, particularly since we were camped in two different places in the National Forest in shady spots.  We never used the generator except for the convection/microwave and never had to use it to recharge the batteries.   I suspect with two panels now it will meet all our needs.   Changing the reading lights to LEDs really helps with the heat and power consumption.  

We are going out to Colorado in a few weeks and will be boondocking above 10,000 so we will be using the furnace in the mornings.  Those things are a real 12v power consumer.  It will be nice to have full batteries every morning.  I found out long ago that the secret to making these deep cycle batteries last years is simply not to discharge them very deeply.  I get nervous if the meter falls below 12.0 and never let it get much lower.   I got seven years out of my batteries in my previous rv prior to buying this PC last fall. 

Paul
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Outside Storage on: July 13, 2014, 09:18:33 pm
Storage is a problem for us as well.  We have found stackable storage boxes work well behind the drivers seat and we often put large bulky items in the shower while in transit.  We slip chairs, a 7 gallon water container, etc., into heavy duty construction grade disposable garbage sacks while they are in there to protect the shower walls and floor.   When we got the 2350 to replace our Class B Roadtrek 210, we were aware the useable storage was really less in the PC than the RT.  But, we were going to be doing more camping and less touring so we now tow a Jeep Cherokee and it provides lots of storage while going down the road.  Everything in any RV is a compromise.   If we weren't towing, we would use a hitch carrier.
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Mold on outside caulking near the rear and front caps on: July 07, 2014, 04:59:23 pm
I don't know how many would agree or disagree with my approach, but here is what I have always done.  First, I cleaned the area with a very highly concentrated solution of Simple Green.  Spray on, agitate with a brush, leave it there five minutes and wash off with water.  Then, I use an eye dropper or small pastry baster to dribble a bleach solution (about a 10% solution) along the edges so that it can seep back in under the trim if there are any openings.  Finally, I spray a little silicone lubricating spray (after everything is totally, absolutely dry) along the edge.  After several days, I clean off any of the silicone spray on the surface and caulk with a good RV caulking. 

Simple Green works really well for me to get rid of the showing build up.  The bleach solution should kill anything that has slipped a little under the trim.  The silicone is to make an air proof seal for a few days.  Mold generally is aerobic and requires at least some amount of oxygen to live.   At least my research in the past has shown most molds are aerobic.

Now, that being said, you really should test any or all of those three products on some non conspicuous place to make sure it will not harm the finish.   Someone may have a much better solution, this is just what I have done for years.   It works for me.  

Paul
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