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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Power step on: August 30, 2014, 11:21:57 am
We have just returned this week from two weeks in our PC and toward the end of the trip, we experienced the step problem.   She no go.  The problem was in the door switch as explained above in the thread.   I lubricated the switch with silicon and that took care of the difficulty.  When we got home this week, I crawled under and took a good look and I was rather surprised to see that the underside of the entry into the PC was beginning to rust and discolor all over.  Also, the wiring to the step had been wrapped with electrical tape, which was in the process of unwrapping.  Given the position of the step and wiring, it doesn't take much to figure out that a few wet roads and a few thousand miles of road speed air flow will torture that kind of wiring harness.  

I don't have time to work on the rig this week but next week I am going to do at least three things:

                                                   1.  Fully encapsulate the back of the push button switch with silicon caulk to protect it from dirt and moisture.  
                                                   2.  Clean the rusting/discolored underside of the entryway from the bottom and paint it with a primer and paint to prevent future problems.
                                                   3.   Use a wiring harness cover on the step wiring to protect it and not rely on ten cents worth of electrical tape.   Here is what I am will use:

I think I will check all the under chassis wiring on the PC while I am doing this job.

17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: August 27, 2014, 01:26:07 pm
Just a report on the performance of my two Renogy panels discussed earlier in this thread.

Two weeks just completed of boondocking high in the Rockies (mostly above 9,000 feet) and lots of useage of the electrical system and solar panels for recharging.   I could not be more pleased with this addition.  Even on the days when it was mostly cloudy our batteries stayed adequately charged.  I monitored the system frequently to make sure how the panels were working.  The heater (a real power eater) was used quite a bit since it was generally in the mid to high 30s in the mornings.  We were camped in a couple of spots on this trip and the rig was in the shade for over half the day, sunny for half the day (on good weather days).    We did change campsites from Colorado to New Mexico (one week in each state), so a couple of hundred miles driving assisted the charge.   

All those years we did this and fretted about battery levels are now history.  Solar is great!

18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Small, quiet electric heater suggestions??? on: August 27, 2014, 01:17:42 pm
I have used Vornado heaters for a couple of decades now and they are really great.  The cyclonic circulation of the heat makes all the difference in the world in whole room comfort.  Alas, like Pelonis and I guess all the others, they are no longer manufactured in the US.  Originally, they were built right outside of  Wichita, Kansas and were of the highest standards.   Now:  China just like all the rest. 

So, if you ever find an old one at a yard, garage or estate sale buy it!
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: August 06, 2014, 07:06:40 pm
Thanks to those on this forum and this thread I have been alerted to a real problem---the sheet metal screws that could pierce the hose. 

I checked our 2350 today and sure enough, one of those little screw ends was almost against the hose and would be with only a little  vibration or movement of the hose.   SO, I twisted the hose from its existing position where it connects to the pump, adjusting it about 15 degrees to move it away from the screw.  Then, I cut two pieces each about 1/2 inch long of insulation from a #12 wire and forced the little piece of plastic insulation (which is now is just a small piece of tubing) over each screw end.  They fit very tight and I suspect will be there from now on.   I was packing for a trip and didn't want to take the time to replace the screws with small stove bolts.

20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: July 29, 2014, 08:58:44 am
Bruce, that is incredible! 

You know, I have actually considered several ways to slightly restrict the output from the pump in order to reduce the pressure on the hose.  Easiest would be to restrict by reducing the diameter of the output at the pump going into the hose.  That could be done with a couple of pvc connections of a smaller size at the pump.  Then, the amount of discharge would be reduced thus reducing the pressure to avoid the sprays and as much stretching.  My fear is the backpressure on the pump would not be good for it over time.  I even thought of reducing the voltage at the pump down to 9-10 volts, but that can cause its own problems. 

So, I always make sure the valves are open and the hose is in the disposal receptacle at the dump station before I turn on the pump so as to eliminate ANY restriction or back pressure when I turn it on.   By the way, I carry one of those water pond hoses I mentioned in my earlier post in the spare tire area of the PC.  It fits fine there and if I need it, I got it.  You can buy 3/4 inch and 1" hose for this purpose and the 1" is what you need.

I discharge at home into my sewer clean out trap which is a hundred feet from where the PC can be parked.  I bought a hundred feet of 3/4" heavy duty garden hose at Tractor Supply a few years ago and keep the hose for that purpose......only that purpose of course!   The fact these little pumps will shoot sewage a hundred feet speaks to the pressures involved and gives greater appreciation for leak potential in that little thin hose. 


21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: July 28, 2014, 07:37:07 am
Previously to owning the 2013 PC 2350 we had a 2007 Roadtrek 210P and I had lots of problems with the macerator hose.  It was crammed (literally) into a very small storage area and subject to some severe bends and road heat the way it is designed.  I love the design on the PC.  I have fixed pinholes with RV GOOP, by cutting and using PVC flex pipe connections, and hose replacement.  It was such a problem I carried stretch tape, GOOP, connections, etc. for emergency repairs.

By the way:  if you have a hose get really bad when you are on the road, pull into Lowes or Home Depot and buy an outdoor water landscaping pond hose.  Twenty feet long, less than twenty bucks, same ID as the regular macerator hose.   Not nearly as good a hose but flexible and will work.  When I sold our RT, it had this hose on it and it had given us good trouble free use for three years.  The design is similar to the supplied and proper hose but not as flexible and not the quality but in an emergency, works just fine.  Those of us that have been sprayed are very sensitive and mindful about this hose LOL

22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Ford 350/450 shifting advice on: July 16, 2014, 06:36:54 pm
I am curious about others experience with the Ford vehicles when in mountains.   Our 2350 is pulling a Jeep Cherokee which weighs about 4044 curb pounds.   I am surprised how the V10 seems to really pull down on mountain passes, granted they are Rocky Mountain passes where I have experienced this and I am towing.  After one trip in June (and planning another in August) we will probably just unhook the Jeep and my wife will drive it up the passes.  We will be boondocking above 10,000 feet so I am not talking hills LOL

Here is my question.   Do most PC owners use the tow/haul mode which, as I understand it, just changes the shifting points, or do they not use it and just use the downshift from the standard drive position, as well as engine speed to maintain momentum.  Our last Class C  was a 450 and this is a 350 and we were not towing.  I was down to 25 mph going up Bobcat Pass in Northern New Mexico last month.   Maybe that is just the way it is?  Our most previous RV was a Roadtrek Class B 210 with the Chevy 6.0L

ALSO...I have read in some places that the V10 is designed to develop max torgue at 4500-5000 rpms.  Is that correct?   I read on another forum a discussion that indicated that was no problem, but I always hate to "cram" an engine. 

Any experiences, direction or suggestions you could give me would be appreciated. 

23  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: July 15, 2014, 09:33:46 pm
Today I installed another panel, this time using the Renogy flexible 100 watter racephoto mentions in the post immediately above.  This thing only weighs four pounds!  Hooked the existing Renogy 100 watt panel together with this one with some Y connectors from Amazon.  

Put this down with 3M VHD mounting tape.  WOW.  First time I had used that stuff.  It is like contact cement from the standpoint that you don't get second chances!  It was in the high 70s here today and full sun.  I was amazed how the charging (amps) went up because, of course, it just doubled.  The PC has been in the storage garage since June 15, so the coach batteries would have naturally not been fully charged.  I was pumping 13.7 volts into the batteries and they charged fully very quickly.   The little Renogy controller that came in the kit with the first panel I installed seems to be working very well.  

The first two weeks of June we were boondocking and the one panel really worked great, particularly since we were camped in two different places in the National Forest in shady spots.  We never used the generator except for the convection/microwave and never had to use it to recharge the batteries.   I suspect with two panels now it will meet all our needs.   Changing the reading lights to LEDs really helps with the heat and power consumption.  

We are going out to Colorado in a few weeks and will be boondocking above 10,000 so we will be using the furnace in the mornings.  Those things are a real 12v power consumer.  It will be nice to have full batteries every morning.  I found out long ago that the secret to making these deep cycle batteries last years is simply not to discharge them very deeply.  I get nervous if the meter falls below 12.0 and never let it get much lower.   I got seven years out of my batteries in my previous rv prior to buying this PC last fall. 

24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Outside Storage on: July 13, 2014, 09:18:33 pm
Storage is a problem for us as well.  We have found stackable storage boxes work well behind the drivers seat and we often put large bulky items in the shower while in transit.  We slip chairs, a 7 gallon water container, etc., into heavy duty construction grade disposable garbage sacks while they are in there to protect the shower walls and floor.   When we got the 2350 to replace our Class B Roadtrek 210, we were aware the useable storage was really less in the PC than the RT.  But, we were going to be doing more camping and less touring so we now tow a Jeep Cherokee and it provides lots of storage while going down the road.  Everything in any RV is a compromise.   If we weren't towing, we would use a hitch carrier.
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Mold on outside caulking near the rear and front caps on: July 07, 2014, 04:59:23 pm
I don't know how many would agree or disagree with my approach, but here is what I have always done.  First, I cleaned the area with a very highly concentrated solution of Simple Green.  Spray on, agitate with a brush, leave it there five minutes and wash off with water.  Then, I use an eye dropper or small pastry baster to dribble a bleach solution (about a 10% solution) along the edges so that it can seep back in under the trim if there are any openings.  Finally, I spray a little silicone lubricating spray (after everything is totally, absolutely dry) along the edge.  After several days, I clean off any of the silicone spray on the surface and caulk with a good RV caulking. 

Simple Green works really well for me to get rid of the showing build up.  The bleach solution should kill anything that has slipped a little under the trim.  The silicone is to make an air proof seal for a few days.  Mold generally is aerobic and requires at least some amount of oxygen to live.   At least my research in the past has shown most molds are aerobic.

Now, that being said, you really should test any or all of those three products on some non conspicuous place to make sure it will not harm the finish.   Someone may have a much better solution, this is just what I have done for years.   It works for me.  

26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tires, Michelins Or ? on: June 30, 2014, 09:33:38 pm
Ron is right on target about inside storage.  Not only do the tires last longer, every seal around the windows, doors, mounts, etc. lasts longer.  UV is the enemy of lots of stuff.  That being said, it is generally agreed that rubber tires chemically degrade due to time regardless of the atmosphere in which they find themselves.  For me, six years is tops and I just buy new ones regardless of the tread.   Like my tire guy told me once "RV tires seldom wear out, they just age out". has had some interesting discussions over the years by engineers, chemists, all those kind of gurus that convinced me about the chemical changes in the decomposition of tires over time.............just like the food in the freezer changes over time. 

Previous to buying the PC last fall, we enjoyed our Roadtrek 210 for almost eight years and it lived in our garage at home which has a nine foot door, a little shy for the PC.   When we sold it we got top bucks because it was just like new.  No deterioration in the paint, rubber, interior...........nothin!   The garage is heated and airconditioned and that made all the difference.  Now, we store in a metal garage storage facility about three miles from the house.  It is really a nice storage area but certainly will not preserve as well as the HVAC equpped garage.   

I think of tires as a few square inches of road contact that stand between us and eternity.   I never try to squeeze the last bit of life out of the suckers.  It is just one risk I won't take.   

27  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing Ford Edge Limited AWD on: June 24, 2014, 10:18:49 am
Thanks for an instructive post.  We just completed our first tow (1500 miles total for the trip) pulling a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.   I post this as a word of caution.   I personally drive a 2011 Jeep GC (the new Trailhawk is my wife's and she reminds me of that fact when I want to drive it  LOL).  I hate these keyless ignition systems.  My Jeep has the customary remote start feature many vehicles now seem to come with.   On THREE different occasions over the last three years that Jeep has unintentionally started itself.  Here is what happens.  

Like many or most guys, I carry several things in my pocket.  Apparently, something rubs against the Jeep key just right and presses the remote start twice.  Maybe another key, maybe some coins, maybe maybe.  In any event, it starts.   Once, I found it running in my garage.   Once it started as I was walking into church.  Once coming out of a friends house.  Also, on one occassion the same thing happened to the rear just got pressed twice accidentally in my pocket and opened.   I am now looking for a small hard sided case to carry the key in to prevent all this.   Call the Jeep folks?  Yep.  The only way to disconnect is some procedure of actually changing the wiring under the hood.  You can't do it on the key.  The on line manual (over a 530 page pdf) is silent on this subject.  

Moral to the story:  watch the keyless ignition stuff.  Man, I wish for my old 2005 GC and its key!!

By the way, I love Pax's braking system.  That is what we had installed and we could not be more pleased.   We had to get a six inch hitch riser because our 2350 hitch is really low compared to many Class Cs.   I don't know if that is unique to the Ford 350 and not a problem on the 450 or not, but you really need your tow gear pretty level to the ground.

28  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Best paper maps on: June 19, 2014, 08:14:55 pm
I just simiply love maps.  I have had several GPSs over the years and find them useful, but for pure joy I love to look at and use maps.  And I prefer the official state maps over the Rand Mc books and the AAA mpas.   The state maps have other cool information and show a lot of little roads to explore as well as maps of the larger cities.    I have a 1910 world atlas.  I love to look at it and think how the world has changed.   I have a set of dvds with years of National Geographic maps on them, from back a hundred years ago ( a gift from my wife about 2000, don't have the ones since then).  I LOVE MAPS.  I don't think some electronic screen will ever replace my love for that folded, faded paper!!

29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure: 2014 PC2350 loaded on: June 19, 2014, 07:54:28 pm
I am glad you asked this question.   I will be very interested to see the answers that are posted.   We have had our 2013 2350 for less than a year so we are still learning about it.  I run 70 Front, 75 Rear when cold.   In hot summer weather I check the pressure every few hundred miles on a long trip and may adjust downward a bit.   When you are going down an interstate and it is in the 90s or more, you will really pick up some air.
30  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: June 15, 2014, 10:01:50 am
Denny & Barb...........I tried to hit the studs with limited success.  I took the finish covers off the Fantastic and the bathroom vent to find a couple of the studs.  You can see them when you take the covers off.  Still, it is a stretch to find them and they are clearly used as wiring chases.   SO, I mounted the solar panel to two 1 1/2 inch wide by 48 inch long buy 1/8th inch thick pieces of aluminum stock using the four Z mounts that came with the panel.  Then, I applied roof sealant to the bottom of the two struts and positioned it on the roof.  Then I screwed self taping #10 by 3/4" screws through the struts and into the roof, penetrating the roof material and the underlying (thin) plywood.   In the couple of instances where I could hit the studs, I used 1 1/4" screws, figuring they would not go all the way to the bottom of the aluminum stud/chase.   The studs I penetrated carried only 12v wire.   Apparently, this worked.   After doing all that, I applied a liberal amount of roof sealant (three caulking tubes worth) to the tops of the struts flowing it onto the exterior roofing about a half an inch on all sides and covering all the screws.  WHEW!  I let it set a few days, drove up the interstate at 70 mph and inspected it.  No problems.  We just got back from a 1500 mile trip and I inspected it several times and am convinced it is really up there tight. 

I am sure there is a better, more appropriate way to do this, but it worked for me using this method.  My fear was hitting the wiring.  Thanks to folks on this forum for furnishing me the roof schematic and some other ideas. 

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