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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Low water pressure when hooked up on: April 30, 2017, 01:41:03 pm
Water switch?   Do you mean a valve that allows you to switch from outside source usage to filling the tank?  If so, I don't think my unit has such a valve control.  I am familiar with them because I had them on other coaches over the years.   If I have one, I don't have a clue where it is located and it is not readily visible.  

Does anyone else have a 2013 (or perhaps a year or two earlier) model 2350 and do you have such a valve?

EDITED:  just found a youtube where Earl demonstrates the referenced valve and refers to it as "new for 2014".  My PC is a 2013, so no such valve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10mJ0OOFZAU

Paul
17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Low water pressure when hooked up on: April 30, 2017, 11:23:31 am
We seldom camp where hookups are available but when we do we still use the pump and water supply from our fresh tank, refilling it as needed with the campground water.  Why?  Because we don't have very good pressure if we are hooked up directly to the campground water supply.

Now, I have checked out just about everything.  I have a water pressure gauge I carry that has a female hose connection attached.  I can check water pressure at the source, at the end of the hose after the water supply has gone through my regulator and hose, etc.  Water pressure is 40 psi at the end of my hose, exactly as it should be.  The pressure of the water coming out in the sinks in our 2013 PC 2350 is about 1/3rd of the pressure with our pump and is essentially not usable for showering, etc.  

I have checked the filter screen in the input connection on the PC.  As a matter of fact, the original back flow check valve failed and I replaced that with a new input connection and a new check valve.  They work perfectly.   I have removed the bed and accessed the plumbing underneath.  I have checked for kinks in the plumbing lines, crimps, everything on every pipe that is accessible.  No problems.  

The only conclusion I can come up with is that the supply line is crimped or impeded somewhere behind the wall between the hose input connection and the accessible/viewable plumbing.   Please remember the pressure is low at all outlets:  both sinks, toilet, shower, and outside shower....every outlet.   SO....the problem must be in the main supply line somewhere and I have just about given up.  I don't intend to tear out the shower walls to try to find it!

Does anyone have any thought or has anyone experienced a similar problem?    I assume the plumbing routing will differ from model to model.  

The whole system works perfectly fine with the water pump.

Paul
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2017 version slide out - a River Runs Thru It? on: April 22, 2017, 11:48:20 am
jatrax, I am sorry you have gone through all this misery.  When you spend this much for something and are as dedicated to defining what you wanted as you have been, it must be disappointing.....very disappointing.  

I am sorry to say this, but I suspect virtually all rv manufacturers are doing well right now business wise and so things get a bit more rushed than when business is a little slower.   Same thing for the sub assembly and parts such as refrigerators, shades,  heaters, air, etc.  

I love to go to rv shows and kick tires.  I notice a distinct decline in quality of assembly and parts over the last couple of years in virtually all manufacturers.  Those old rigs were built like tanks but now......different story.   Less is more is also a factor often for quality.   I feel lucky that I can do all my own maintenance and upkeep on the rig itself, but I won't touch the chassis stuff.   That is the local garage down the street.  I just don't have the knowledge base and know it.  

We have had few problems with our 2013 and are very pleased with its quality.   We had a 2007 Roadtrek 210P Class  B prior to this PC and the RT was a study in how to build something right.  If you could have put wings on it you would have been comfortable at 250 knots and 10,000 feet.   I looked at the new Roadtreks recently.  No comparison in quality of construction and finite finish compared to our old 2007.   Phoenix has a real advantage in that they are owned by the folks that run the joint and are extremely responsive.  Roadtrek, like many, has been flipped three times in the last few years...from the family that started it in the 70s and ran it through about 2010.   Now, it is owned by a European RV manufacturer.   After being flipped by a couple of "private equity" groups.  

Hang in there.  I bet you have identified virtually all the bugs.

And catsaplenty shouldn't have to have a leak in the slide.  I tilt our rig a bit so that the shower drains better.  That is the opposite of the tilt needed to keep water out of the slide apparently.  So far, our slide has been water good whether extended or retracted.  I do service it every spring to just make sure it hopefully stays that way.

Paul
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electric Awning Question on: April 22, 2017, 11:32:46 am
We bought our 2350 eleven months old.  I thought we got all the manuals but the strap is news to me.  Could someone please describe what it looks like and how/where to use it in the awning doesn't retract?   Pictures, anyone? 

Paul
20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Got "Bob" home on: April 08, 2017, 07:54:36 pm
Garmp, I have posted about these sun screens for the windshields on this forum in the past.   I think they are pretty great and for less than fifty bucks. 

https://eclipsesunshades.net/
21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Furnace not working on: April 04, 2017, 08:05:16 am
Is it just me or do others long for the good ole days when all these rv appliances were simple?  Furnaces didn't have a "motherboard".  They had mechanical controls that seemed to never fail.  Air conditioners were a compressor and a coil or two.  They never had problems.  It just seems to me these things have gotten TOO complex and vulnerable.  Our first RV water heater was lit with a match!

Remember that old Sears Roebuck washing machine or dishwasher that lasted twenty years and had mechanical dials?   I don't mean to live in the past but all these safety/convenience/expensive devices just tend to devolve into hassle IMO.  But I guess we have no choice......or go buy a twenty year old rig and restore it. 

Paul
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Nexgrill on: April 04, 2017, 07:59:30 am
Like keelhauler, I have used that little Coleman Grill Stove for about ten years now.  I bought it for the small space required when we had a Class B Roadtrek.  I also carry a Coleman single burner and with the two of them we can cook just about anything our little hearts desire.  Disposable LP gas makes more sense to me than being tethered by an umbilical gas hose to a big bottle or the rv LP source.  If we are just making coffee or warming some soup or something, I only pull out the single burner.  Full meals bring out both.

Since we boondock mostly and for many days at a time, we have to plan all the cooking and supplies rather carefully. 

Paul

23  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Cargo Carrier on a 2400 on: April 01, 2017, 07:53:19 pm
We used a cargo carrier for many years prior to owning the PC.  It really was great for our Roadtrek Class B.  Always assuming the worst and expecting the best, I used ratchet straps  something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Strength-Appliances-Equipment-Motorcycle/dp/B00JLFI5IO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491090337&sr=8-5&keywords=ratchet+straps

I modified the carrier to fit the unique needs of the Roadtrek and I built "sideboards" on it out of 1x8 pressure treated wood which were bolted in place but removable if need be.  I also bought some reflective tape and put across the back of it just for dolling it up and perhaps increasing the probability that Billy Bob behind me would take note of the carrier's presence.  If you really want to spend some dough and buy something really keen take a look here:

https://www.stowaway2.com/

I always wanted one of these but the Roadtrek configuration gave me pause.  I would have had to use a twelve inch hitch extender to accommodate the spare tire continental kit on the Roadtrek.   
24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Plumbing Problem on: April 01, 2017, 02:56:04 pm
Nicki, if it were me and I was wanting to use my PC I would probably use the screwdriver, turn it to the on position and turn the other two valves appropriately as show in the manual to use the system.   I would hook up to the external water hose, turn it on very slightly and just see if it leaked.  You might be surprised that the part that popped off is the control handle and just a secondary retention "O" ring.  I don't know and can't tell from the pictures.   In any event, I would sure give it a try. 

If it does leak slightly, I would then dry it off absolutely completely and wrap it with something like EZ Fuse Tape (Walmart, Lowes, HD, etc.).   Water pressure in an RV should never be over 40 psi due to the regulators we all hopefully use on our water hoses and the water pump in the rigs won't exceed that normally either.   In any event, I would try it and see.  I would not be surprised if it did not leak once opened.   Who knows without trying?  Once the tape anneals it is pretty tough waterproof stuff.   You can always cut it off with a knife when you want to remove it. 

Paul
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Grille bug screen & windshield sun screen on: March 31, 2017, 08:32:19 am
Bill, take a look at these:

https://eclipsesunshades.net/

We had one on our previous motorhome's windshield and loved them.  Our PC was eleven months old when we adopted her and the first owner had purchased those nice dark magent attached exterior shades, so we use them.  Candidly, I think the Eclipse setup is very preferable in many ways.  Lot less money, too.  This is a small company and as I recall is in
El Paso.  You can call them and they can answer any questions about their product. 

Paul
26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 24, 2017, 08:43:17 am
The closer to level the tow bar can be adjusted the better the tow and the fewer problems.  Here is a word of warning:  it happened to me.   I had never towed a car in my life behind a motorhome until we got our PC a few years ago.   The towbar when first installed was significantly inclined up from the PC to the Jeep.  Corrected that with a really heavy duty riser.  Next the safety cables on the tow bar.

Now, like I said, I was a complete neophyte as far as towing a car although I had towed some trailers.  The mistake was the safety cables were too short to allow a sharp turn.  First tow, I pull out of my own driveway and buckled one of the arms on the towbar because the cable on that side was too short to allow the turn.  Once the damage was done, it was obvious to me what my mechanical mistake was.  So, longer safety cables and repairing the damaged tow bar came next.  Other than that first timer mistake, no other problems.   Three hundred extra bucks of expense because I simply didn't know to be mindful of that cable length being adequate.   Live and learn.  I pass along my error and hope it may prevent others from the same simple possibility. 

Paul 
27  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 22, 2017, 01:24:58 pm
I am towing a 4000 pound vehicle with my 2350 on a Ford 350 chassis with lighter capacities than your 450.  Yes, your rig is a four feet longer but I don't think you have a worry.  We fill the Cherokee with all sorts of camping junk with the back seats laid flat.  Couple of hundred pounds worth.  The only time I am really cognizant of towing it is on a really steep mountain pass.  

And when I try to approach a gasoline pump.  You gotta kinda choose your spots to refill your PC unless you unhitch.   You can't make a very wide swing.  

Paul
28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizeing on: March 19, 2017, 07:21:20 pm
I drain the pink stuff out completely, put a couple of gallons of water in the tank and then pump it through all the faucets.  Then, I do like Ron.  I put a couple of cups of bleach in the tank and then fill it up to the rim with the hose turned on full to force as much water as fast as possible down into the tank to agitate the bleach and water together.   Then, I pump some of this solution through every faucet, shut off the pump and leave the bleach solution in there overnight or sometimes even a little longer.  Then, I drain it out completely with the three drain valves.   Then, refill with fresh water and off I am done.  

Unlike Tom, I open the hot water heater bypass valve and fill that tank also with the bleach solution.   By the way, when bypassed and winterized, I leave the drain plug in the tank out of the tank all winter.  Also, I use a wand made for the purpose to thoroughly wash out the tank prior to refilling in the spring.   Now, with the PC aluminum tanks that don't have an anode like the older tanks this is not so much necessary.  In my other rigs over the years, I left the anode out all winter and I rinsed it at the end and beginning of the camping season with the wand sprayer.

I will add further that we do not drink water out of the PC system.  We buy and carry bottled water replenishing it as we use it.  Just got into that habit over thirty years ago and that is we do.   Some of the places we go the water may or may not be to peachy and we figure why take a chance for less than a buck a gallon for generic water from the grocery store.

Pau l
29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Every little bit of storage counts on: March 18, 2017, 12:17:16 pm
I check my spare at the beginning and in the middle of the travel season.   Folks might be observant of the retaining nut on the inside of the cover (the one that holds on the lock and handle hardware).  Mine had worked really loose.  I should have put some thread lock on it before I tightened it back up.  You really have to remember that this is a fiberglass or similar material that the cover is cast in and can break fairly easily.  Also, you can chip the paint easily on the cover when removing it if you are not mindful.  

I do think, however, it is a neat place to put the spare and thus create the bump out on the back of the coach.  That allows also for the big door and shallow storage area back there.  Pretty cool design, really.  That bump out and "continental kit a la Phoenix" makes a PC very distinctive from the back.   Take a look at most Cs and what you see is box of Premium Saltine Crackers on its side with six wheels under it.  

Paul
30  Main Forum / General Discussion / Every little bit of storage counts on: March 17, 2017, 07:46:53 pm
Going over our PC2350 today doing all my annual maintenance stuff.  

I took off the spare tire cover to check the spare's pressure and thought I would pass along what else is back there.  Many may do this also, but if you don't it is a thought for you.  I keep a heavy duty long length set of jumper cables and a fifteen foot spare water hose (for the macerator pump/dump) wrapped around the steel tube that supports the spare tire.  I haven't needed either since we got the PC three plus years ago but you never know....particularly the jumpers.  It is a great place to keep those two seldom needed items.   Exterior storage in our PC is limited so every little bit helps.  Also the interior of that metal tube is a neat place to keep something small that is seldom needed, maybe a can of Slime or something like that.  Emergency type stuff.  

Paul
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