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31  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: November 03, 2012, 07:57:03 pm

Quick check for you on the TV remote.  If the remote is able to control more than one type or model of TV it might need to be reprogrammed.  Most of the codes for the remotes and TV's are in the owner's manual.  Worst case you might have to get the codes off the internet.


Hi Barry,

Just discovered that I'm not getting email notifications of updates to the forums.  I hit the Notify button thinking I needed to re-subscribe, but it just asked if I wanted to cancel notifications.  Nothing in the sp@m bucket.  Will have to check with Aimee on this.

Unfortunately, it isn't a universal remote.  The tv is a westinghouse sk-19h210s, with a dedicated remote.  I purchased a GE universal, programmed that and the TV works fine with it.  I can still use the Westinghouse remote if I need to re-setup or similar.  What's really annoying is that it has the curse of all electrical & mechanical products:  an intermittent problem.

And what I DON'T like about universal remotes is sometimes you hit one of the other device buttons accidentally (maybe similar to b*tt-dialing a phone?  Grin).  Had forgotten this when the new remote quit working.  It was the brain that went gunnybag, not the remote.

Thanks for the reply.

--Just George
32  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 28, 2012, 04:17:44 pm
I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

Bob A

Okay, that's definitely another possibility.  I can get fender washers relatively easily, maybe even some pretty decorative ones. <g>  Down the road, if there was a problem, go with Ron's solution, which does seem to add more support.  I'll study the pix more, and ponder these two solutions further.

Your use of wall anchors is quite reassuring, and the pictures are very helpful.  My confidence is growing.

Thank you,

33  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 28, 2012, 12:46:36 pm
Tom:  Thank you.  I'll have to rely on the YouTube videos.  Possibly traveling to Minnesota next spring, may jog down to Elkhart.   Full-timing in the PC with no toad -- we'd be reluctant to drive in to the Monaco coach factory here in Oregon!  I may try removing one of the door bolts, but in another post in General Discussion I learned that removing bolts (floor bolts in this case) may not be a good idea  Smile.  (Those bolts hold the generator and the LP tank, per Kermit.)  So I will cautiously approach this method.

Ron:  by button, I'm guessing you mean something that resembles a cabinet pull knob but is threaded to fit over the rod.  I think I've seen something like that, will have to check out the big hardware stores when we get near some.  Also thanks for the window shade anchor mod info, will start on that soon.  Thanks again for the information, very useful.

In the interim, I now have to deal with a cranky Westinghouse TV:  the remote isn't working, the volume up button on the tv is now the channel down control, etc.  Resolving this just jumped to the top of the todo list.

Thanks again,

34  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 27, 2012, 10:19:26 pm
Wow!  Thanks for the through explanation, especially the structural information.  That could be useful -- assuming the wife will allow me to put any holes in any wall (she's okay with the window shade anchor mod, just doesn't want ANY holes in any walls).  I'll keep working on her.

Looking at the door problem again, I'll probably have to post a separate thread regarding that crack, including a pix or two.

I'm guessing the foam is somewhat more dense than a foam cooler, closer to a structural foam panel?  In my experience, studs are almost never where you need them!  In maintaining a 60+ year-old concrete block motel, years ago I started using almost exclusively Toggler Alligator anchors  While most of the walls were concrete, I used the same anchors in hollow walls, including walls with just standard paneling.  Very rarely did I have to resort to lead anchors in the concrete.  So do you think these might work for light applications in the PC?  I'm thinking coffee cup/eye glass shelves, maybe a magazine rack.

And now I need to locate one of my two stud finders, both in storage, hopefully not buried too deeply.  Else I'll be buying a 3rd.

My 2008 2551 does NOT have a piston-type door closer, just a regular door.  But I see your point about rope vs. metal chain or cable.

As for the door stud for the rope:  I think that you're saying that the door frame is thick enough to allow sufficient threads to accommodate the stress from a door swinging open, not necessarily due to a strong gusting wind, would that be correct?  And any reason a 1/4" or 5/16" SS bolt couldn't be used instead of a threaded rod with a bolt?

The explanation you provided goes a long way to reassuring me I may be able to tackle some routine repairs or simple mods.

Thank you again,

35  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 27, 2012, 12:27:53 pm
Hi Ron,

Overall a very enlightening and educational write-up.  Thanks for taking the time to do this, and continuing to monitor this topic.

Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

I'm completely unfamiliar with the wall and door construction of the PC.  Over the years I've had no problem remodeling/repairing various walls and windows in regular buildings, including stick-built and concrete wall structures.  But for some reason, starting any repair on the PC is totally intimidating.  (Probably because the wife doesn't want me to make it worse as I don't know what I'm getting into!)  Any insights into wall structure would be appreciated.

And this also pertains to item #4, your Entry Door Limiter.  How did you mount the bold to the door?  I can't tell from the picture.  Please provide additional details.  And about the rope:  you said it stretches a little.  When I ask about this at a hardware store, they seem to think I'm referring to bungie cord -- is that what you used?

Thanks in advance for the info.


36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bolts in the Floor on: October 17, 2012, 08:01:27 pm
Thanks everyone for the replies.  My next step will be to contact the factory.

Ron:  these bolts are suspiciously near where the generator would be, so may indeed be part of that framework.  If so, it's a shame it's in the middle of the vinyl, which is actually in excellent condition, we like the color/pattern, so don't want to cover it over.  Grinding may be something to consider if it gets too bothersome.  Thanks.

Thanks again all, being full-time total novices we'll be back with more questions.  (Still slogging thru the previous posts on the forums here.)

37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Bolts in the Floor on: October 17, 2012, 12:02:04 pm

About 2 months into the familiarization with RV lifestyle and the PC coach in particular.  This is a 4 yr old 2551 w/ slide.  It has the convertible couch in the slide.  When in couch mode (?), there are 2 bolts in the floor, one just in front about in the middle, the other on the driver's end of the couch just at the edge of the slide out.  The flooring is vinyl, and is cut-out around the bolts.  The top of the bolt is slightly above the level of the surrounding vinyl.  We think there used to be carpet on the floor, but was removed sometime in the past.

I'd like to remove these bolts, but have no idea what might fall off if I do!   Smile

And once removed, is there a way to fill in the vinyl but still be able to find the holes some day in the future in case they're needed?  I did find a suggestion for repairing vinyl gouges (Seamfil), which I might try, and I suspect that would make the the patched area obvious.  But would welcome any other suggestions here.

We just recently purchased 2 Spiderlegs ( laptop tables, and that bolt interferes with the table bottom.  And some of us don't like stepping on the bolts. 

Thanks in advance for any help,

38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sani-Con Nozzle Issues on: September 25, 2012, 08:52:08 pm
Although I cannot offer any suggestions regarding your issue(s), I will offer an observation:
Our use of the PC has changed somewhat in that we no longer do the 'hit and run' of a single overnight but now plant ourselves at a location and use the TOAD to explore from it for 3 or more days.

Yes, I agree with the use of both the Sani-Con for "hit-and-run" stops, and the 3" drain hose for longer stays, or when we want to flush out the tanks.  Since we're still trying to figure all this out, we're experimenting with various methods of dumping, including not dumping at all for a single night if there is no immediate need.

And more than just experimenting, we're practicing.  (Gotta remember to make sure the gray valve is closed before dumping the black!!! Smile

Consequently, I had the factory install the valve on our PC's 3" 'emergency' drain port and found that while the Sani-Con does the job expected, using the 3" 'stinky-slinky' port provides better evacuation of the black tank's solids. I'm sure this is due to the surge of the greater volume and faster flow of the large port versus the slower Sani-Con system.

I learned this the hard way.  It is a long way from the end of the 3" dump line to the black dump valve!!!

I found a "twist on dump valve" that just, yes, twists on to the end where the cap sits, then attach the cap to that twist-on valve.  So far works like a charm, it is attached very snugly, so far it seems like it won't accidentally detach.  The cap, however, is another matter:  it was loose, so I wrapped  layers of black electrical tape on the prongs, and it is now firmly attached as well.

As for some other means of connecting the Sani-Con nozzle to the campground's sewer connection:  laying the nozzle without screwing it in would require some form of weight to hold it in place, such as a concrete block, which we don't want to carry, or a large, heavy rock, which is not available at the park where we're currently staying.

FWIW:  I did contact Thetford regarding this, and they have no solution.  I'm currently contacting stinky-slinky sources to see if there is some way to adapt their connectors to the Sani-Con hose.  If I learn anything useful, I'll add it here.

Thanks for all the feedback, I'll be asking more questions, as there is a bunch of stuff we still don't know.  Hopefully there won't be any major damage to the surrounding community in our quest to figure it out.   Grin

39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Sani-Con Nozzle Issues on: September 22, 2012, 11:33:11 pm

Total RVing newbies here, full-time.  Jumped into the deep end of the pool before learning how to swim.  At the end of July we had no idea we would be doing this.  At first, we thought we'd start out with a van conversion or similar.  But by sheer good luck, we ended up with a 2008 PC M-2551 in what seems like reasonably good condition.  We're very pleased that we found one of the few affordable ones here in the Pacific NW.  However...

After about 25 days, the Sani-Con motor quit.  We've had it replaced, also one of the dump valves had frozen partly open (the gray valve).  All seems to be well now.  But the replacement came with hose and nozzle.  So now I have 3 nozzles, 1 old and 2 new, as I had previously purchased a new one about 2 weeks ago.

The problem I'm having is that I cannot get the nozzle to screw into standard 4-inch drains in RV parks.  While waiting for the repair I had to use the 3-inch hose, and had no problems mounting it to the drain with it's 4-in connector.  In the meantime, I have cobbled together a 3-in to 4-in adapter, and screw the Sani-Con nozzle into that using the 3-in portion of the nozzle.  It works, but is more stuff to carry and set-up.  (FWIW, I did try a foam connector, but that was a mistake.)

Any one else have this problem?  I thought I'd check on this forum before researching further.  (I did try an internet search, with pages of results but nothing useful.  Also tried a search on this forum -- so maybe no one else has had this problem.)

Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks in advance,

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