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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Squeaking faucet handle on bathroom sink on: Today at 08:05:38 pm
Barry,
On our faucets there is a small, somewhat oval, about 3/4" long piece on the handle showing hot or cold side.  I gentle slipped a thin pointed knife blade under the edge of that "cap" and popped it out.
I hope you can tell me how to continue on ours.
--Bruce
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Squeaking faucet handle on bathroom sink on: Today at 06:03:51 pm
We're at home now, so I'm attempting to fix the squeaking handle.  So far I've removed the cap on the handle, removed the handle, and removed a plastic nut from the base of the handle stem.  The stem is all plastic and is firmly secured in the fixture.  I can't move it by hand and am afraid to put a pair of pliers or other tool on the plastic threads.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the stem so that I can apply some lubrication to it?
--Bruce
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Squeaking faucet handle on bathroom sink on: July 23, 2015, 11:56:06 am
Don,
Thank you for your reply.
We're camping now, so will try to fix the squeak when we get home.
--Bruce
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Light Fixture Fuse Location on: July 22, 2015, 09:08:03 pm
Bob,
I think I know the answer to your question.
If you leave the rig during daytime hours, you leave all the ceiling lights off except the one controlled by the switch by the entry.
When you exit the rig, push the entry switch to off to turn off the one remaining ceiling light.
When you return after dark, push the entry switch on to light up the inside of the rig.
--Bruce
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Squeaking faucet handle on bathroom sink on: July 22, 2015, 05:37:22 pm
A handle on our bathroom sink makes a squeaking sound when turning it.  Below is a photo of our sink.

I've read that lubricating the handle stem will eliminate the squeak, but I'm not sure how to remove the cap on the handle.

Do I use a screw driver as suggested in the following procedure and does this procedure seem like the right thing to do?

Lubricate the stem as follows:

Push the end of a screwdriver under the cap on the knob to pry it off. If the center cap will not pop off, it is probably threaded. Loosen it with a pair of pliers and turn it counterclockwise with your fingers to remove it.

Remove the screw in the center of the knob.

Pull the knob up to remove it.

Coat the exposed handle stems with plumbers grease.

Sounds easy enough, but I've never done this before.
--Bruce
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Passenger rear view morror on: July 22, 2015, 04:59:24 pm
Ron,
Here are two photos of the rear view mirrors on our 2014 PC2552 (built on a 2013 Ford chassis).  I would call them single arm.
--Bruce
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Passenger rear view morror on: July 15, 2015, 12:14:11 pm
The arms on both of the rear view mirrors on our 2013 model fold back.  It does take some force to push them back.
--Bruce
8  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Adventure Anywhere - A New Adventure on: July 09, 2015, 07:49:51 pm
Congratulations Ron and Irene.   ThumbsUp
Thanks for sharing the photos of your beautiful family.
--Sharon and Bruce
9  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / How I secure our portable surge guard on: June 29, 2015, 11:23:49 am
There is some current discussion on the use and location of a surge guard.  For those who might use a portable one, I'm posting our method of securing our portable surge guard:

We secure our portable surge guard to the electric post at an RV park with a length of double loop chain and two padlocks.  One padlock attaches snugly to the surge guard power cord at one end of the chain.  The chain is then wrapped around the electric post and the second padlock connects that end of the chain snugly to the first padlock.  The electric post usually has a large box at the top of the post that blocks lifting the chain arrangement off of the post.

This will not stop someone with a bolt cutter from taking the surge guard, but should protect it in most cases.
--Bruce
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Aftermarket installation of hard-wired surge protection? on: June 28, 2015, 08:46:30 pm
Moved to new topic under Tips and Tricks.
--Bruce
11  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: HWH levelers not retracting on: June 17, 2015, 01:33:22 am
We have always had some trouble extending each of the two front levelers, so I'd like to apply the WD40 as is being discussed here.  But I'm having trouble understanding the procedure.  Do you fully extend the levelers and then crawl under the rig to get to the metal sleeves?  Do the front ones first and then the back ones?
--Bruce
12  Main Forum / Photos / Small tables for our 2552 on: June 07, 2015, 03:54:30 pm
We like the recliner sofa in our 2552, but the standard table doesn't always serve our needs.  We leave that table at home and bring four small folding tables that we can easily arrange (or rearrange) to suit our need at the time.

Thought some folks would like to try this, too.
--Bruce and Sharon
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Where to hang bathroom towel rack and toilet paper on the 2100? on: May 17, 2015, 09:21:01 pm
Tom,
Our primary towel bar in our 2552 is an "Over Door 3 Bar Towel Rack" like the ones at Camping World Item #71552 or #43953.  It fits nicely on the shower door.  I've wrapped some velcro around the points that touch the door so that the rack doesn't bang around while traveling.

We also use several "Over the door single hooks" that we hang from the top of the shower enclosure--one or two on the outside near the sink and a couple more inside to hang dripping wet items.

I like the idea of having a towel bar on the sliding bathroom door--might add that too.

--Bruce
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Where to hang bathroom towel rack and toilet paper on the 2100? on: May 17, 2015, 01:37:26 am
I know that this reply is not directly applicable to the main subject here, but I want to give my point of view on the 2350 vs the 2552 shower.  We had a 2350 before we purchased our 2552, so I've experienced both.  Maybe it's because of my size (only 5'6" and 138 lbs.), but I much prefer the shower in the 2552.  There's plenty of room inside for a great shower and I prefer the hinged door rather than the accordion one.  I do like to open the door to make more space when making my final towel down before stepping out of the shower.
--Bruce
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: OUR TOAD on: April 29, 2015, 12:36:26 pm
Here is the equipment we use for towing our 2013 Honda CR-V with our 2014 2552 PC:
Roadmaster Invisibrake part number 8700 and
Roadmaster All Terrain Non-binding tow bar.

We find these to be very easy to use because there are no braking components to move in and out before or after each trip.

The tow bar is light enough for one person to easily hook up and/or disconnect (much easier than our previous Roadmaster unit that always took both of us "seniors" to manage together).  The base plate is barely visible when to tow bar is removed.

We purchased these at Camping World in San Martin, CA and had them do the installation.  That very complicated process was done perfectly and we're very happy with the results.

We do plan to add the Roadmaster "Fusemaster" switch to avoid the possibility of discharging the toad's battery while hauling on a long trip.

Bruce and Sharon
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