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106  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2012 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 15, 2013, 10:59:57 pm
Ron and Tom,

Thanks for the additional posts that you've made.  I'm slowly learning how to set up a 12v battery maintenance system for the CR-V.  But, I'm still running into questions that might be too difficult to answer remotely on this Forum.  If so, I'll wait until I can bring both the PC and CR-V to a shop to do this for me.

In any case, if you are curious as to what I've determined so far, here it is:

The good news is that the coach end of our coiy cable has 6 metal terminals and the towd end has 6 terminals.

So, I guess I can plug the coach end of the cable into the coach socket and test with my multimeter to see that we have 12v at the towd end of the cable.  (Do I just insert the meter probes into terminals 1 and 4 to do this?).  

If the above is correct, then we need to run a 12v wire from the towd's socket through a diode to the auto battery.  Sounds easy!

The bad news is that we had Camping World install the tow bar and wiring on the CR-V and so far I haven't located a "rectangular 2 terminal diode" as mentioned in Ron's post.

Part of my problem in tracing the wiring on this project is that Camping World installed an Invisibrake at the same time.  I can see the white, brown, yellow, and green wires running down to the towd's socket (these are for the towd's turn signal, tail, brake, & running lights--no problem here).  

There is a red and a black wire attached to the towd's battery posts, but I can't see where they go (I'm guessing that they are for the Invisibrake control box located under the driver's seat).  

And there are two black wires in wiring bundle that I assume are to connect the Invisibrake control box to the coach's brake lights.  There is a single black wire (separate from the coily cable) that connects the coach and towd for the Invisibrake.  Maybe the "rectangular 2 terminal diode" is also used by the Invisibrake system and is buried out of sight somewhere (I don't really know what to look for).

If nothing else, this project is good brain exercise for an old guy!  Sharon always claims that I'm happiest when working on a project.  LOL


107  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2012 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 15, 2013, 12:47:54 am
Wow, great replies to my questions!  You've given us several ways to avoid the battery discharge.
The idea of turning down the display screens is good, and shows again that we had not read much of the Honda owner's manual.  Now we've learned more of the options available with those.  All the added technology in the new CR-V is a big surprise as we didn't realize how much was going to be different compared to our traded-in 2003 CR-V.
It was interesting seeing the modification to the accessory fuse by adding the toggle switch.  We're not skilled enough to make the mods ourselves, but maybe a Honda shop or an auto stereo shop would do that for us.
But, the best cure might be in Ron's reply.  What we understand from him is that our PC already has the 12V line installed in the outside rear socket used with the towing wire harness, and the standard coily cable that we are using has the 12v wire that connects to the Honda.  We're uncertain how to connect the 12v connection in socket on the Honda to the Honda battery for the battery maintenance.
Ron, what is the "2 terminal box is a diode" statement referring to?
Thanks to each of you,
Bruce and Sharon
108  Main Forum / General Discussion / 2013 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 14, 2013, 01:14:59 am
On our last leg of a six week trip, we towed our new 2013 CR-V for about nine hours.  We found that the toad battery was fully discharged when we arrived at our destination.  Because the built in GPS, etc. keeps running with the key in the accessory position, we had wondered if that would be enough to drain the battery.  None of our previous legs were more than five hours and the toad always started up at the end of the leg.  After reading the CR-V owner's manual, we see that we should have pulled Fuse 19 during an extended trip.  

Pulling that fuse will be too difficult for me to do on a semi-regular basis because of its location under the dash.  I suspect that a toggle switch could be installed that would accomplish the same thing as removing the fuse, and I'm wondering if any of you have experience with this?

Another approach might be to add a charging line from our coach back to the Honda battery, but that seems to be much more difficult.

Any ideas?

109  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: October 05, 2013, 03:13:11 pm
Welcome to the Forum Bob,

One of the advantages we feel we have with our E-450 over the E-350 is the greater distance above the street that exists at the rear end of the PC.  With the E-350 we often were dragging the tail going into gas stations, parking lots, etc. with the possibility of damaging the macerator that is located back there.

Best regards,
110  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 29, 2013, 10:16:12 pm
We made it to our destination safely today with the rear view camera in a dim mode.
Changing the "channel wave" sounds interesting (don't know what it means either).  Maybe I changed something when I bumped my head on the monitor yesterday. 
 I need to read a manual on this camera and monitor before I do anything else.
Thanks for your help.
111  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 29, 2013, 01:26:14 pm
Thanks for the quick reply to the camera question.
 I removed the screws holding the top center tail light, but found the "ring" that holds the lens in to be firmly attached to the wall.  It seems to be made of plastic and didn't want to move without some force.  Being afraid that I would break it while we're far away from help, I just put it all back as I found it and will try again another day.
Here's hoping that we get at least a dim image during our trip today.
112  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 28, 2013, 11:06:21 pm
Can you tell us where in the coach the loose connection was located?
We were near the end of our 180 mile trip today when the rear view monitor became very dim and then turned completely blue for a short time.  Then the dim image reappeared.  Sounds something like what you experienced.
I haven't had time to start looking for the problem and we plan to be on our way again early tomorrow (Sunday) and hope you can help me locate a loose connection.
113  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 28, 2013, 10:45:59 pm
Thanks for your input on this, too.  Very good!
114  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 25, 2013, 12:06:35 am
Thanks for the great reply to my questions. I plan to follow your procedure.
115  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Night/Day Shades Rattling on: September 24, 2013, 09:10:56 pm
Welcome to the forum and thanks for the window shade tip.  The rattling was most annoying to us at night when we would roll over in our twin beds and bump against the shades.  We have just now installed pieces of soft side Velcro strip to the shades and the rattling is gone! 
Best regards,
Bruce and Sharon
116  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 24, 2013, 06:28:04 pm
I have some more questions on the use of the Sani-con system, too.  So, I'm tagging them on here.  (Please forgive me for bothering you with such trivial matters.)

First a long description:
I alway dump the black tank with the Sani-con system and follow the recommended procedure of tank equalization and draining the black tank to try to keep it clean and flushed out.  I alway add Thetford Aqua-Kem and about a gallon of water when I know the tank is empty.  But, after every dump is complete, the indicator lights inside says that the black tank is 2/3 full.  I then flush the black tank with my flush water hose until I can see that the water coming out of the tank looks clear.  Now, the indicator light says the black tank is empty.  I didn't expect to need to do the extra flush after every black dump.

Is the Aqua-Kem inadequate to enable a clean flush?  Should I use a different product?  Should I just do as I'm doing and be happy to have the Sani-con instead of just the old messy 3" system?

Another long description:
When we're in the same RV park location for more than a few days, I've been using the 3" dump valve to drain the gray tank every day if the dump station is near the rear of the coach and I can connect with a short 3" type hose.  I leave the 3" drain tube connected, so it is a quick task to open the gray valve in the sani-con compartment and the 3" valve at the back end, then reverse the process after the gray tank is empty.  I use the 3" drain for this because I'm reluctant to leave the Sani-con hose laying out on the ground and it often doesn't stay screwed into the dump as the 3" hose does.

Now for a couple of questions:
1.  I've been closing the Sani-con gray valve every day rather than leave it open and let the little "open" light stay on.  I hate the thought of that light burning out and have to replace it.  Am I being too cautious here? (I've read that some of you leave the valve open in a similar situation--any problem?)
2.  Maybe this question will help resolve the question above:  I just noticed today that when I open the Sani-con gray tank with the Sani-con switch, the pull handle on the gray tank comes out automatically.  Could I just pull that handle out manually and avoid the constant "light" issue, or would I break something?

PS: I know there is a gray tank overflow by-pass on the Sani-con that I could rely on, but then I'd still have the "open" light issue, right?

117  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Insulating the doghouse on: September 24, 2013, 05:03:49 pm
Hi Mark,

This reply doesn't answer your question directly because I've not considered insulating the doghouse before. 

But, I agree that the engine noise is very loud when the tranny shifts down at high rpms.  This happens to us when the engine is trying to maintain the speed I have set (usually 55mph or less while we're towing here in California) on steep climbs.  I've found that if I just release the speed control and ease off on the gas pedal a little the tranny shifts back up and I can maintain 45mph at the lower rpms with less noise.

We're usually not in a rush to get somewhere, so that works for us.

Please let us know if you find a better solution for yourself.

118  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 24, 2013, 03:39:09 pm
I agree with your summary on the handling issue.  Thanks for another of your excellent posts!
119  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 24, 2013, 03:08:49 pm
It's good to hear that options are available to help all RVers have a safe and pleasant time driving their rigs.  I'm sharing our experience with hope that someone might benefit from it.

The minor handling issue that we had with our 2552 was not so much the feeling of being blown aside by a passing truck, but most often just the feeling of the coach drifting to one side or the other while traveling on the highway requiring more steering adjustments than I would normally expect in another vehicle.  I could live with those adjustments, but wanted to minimize them if we could and also enhance safety while driving a large vehicle.

I could see that the Safe-T-Plus definitely helps to keep the coach moving forward on a straight line as well as providing protection from the wheels being pulled off of the road due to a blow-out, etc.  Our Henderson installer took along some tools on a test drive with us after the Safe-T-Plus was put on, and we could see that the coach had a tendency to move too much to the right on its own as we traveled down a road with only a small amount of center crown.  We stopped in a turn-out along the road while the installer crawled under the coach to make a minor adjustment which resulted in the coach now moving almost perfectly straight.  He didn't want to make any further adjustment as that might give the coach a tendency to move left (which could cause a problem at some point).

After many more miles of highway driving, I feel that the remaining required steering adjustments are the normal type that are needed in any vehicle on the road.

120  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 23, 2013, 12:38:10 pm
I don't think that the actual length of a coach makes a great difference in the tendency to road wander.  But the ratio of wheel base to coach length could make a difference.  For example, if a coach with a certain wheel base were to be made longer without changing the wheel base (making the ratio of wheel base to length smaller), the extra length and weight would extend behind the rear axle.  This would likely cause the "tail to wag the dog" and make steering more difficult.  Just a thought.
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