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106  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 29, 2013, 10:16:12 pm
We made it to our destination safely today with the rear view camera in a dim mode.
Changing the "channel wave" sounds interesting (don't know what it means either).  Maybe I changed something when I bumped my head on the monitor yesterday. 
 I need to read a manual on this camera and monitor before I do anything else.
Thanks for your help.
107  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 29, 2013, 01:26:14 pm
Thanks for the quick reply to the camera question.
 I removed the screws holding the top center tail light, but found the "ring" that holds the lens in to be firmly attached to the wall.  It seems to be made of plastic and didn't want to move without some force.  Being afraid that I would break it while we're far away from help, I just put it all back as I found it and will try again another day.
Here's hoping that we get at least a dim image during our trip today.
108  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back up camera and monitor on: September 28, 2013, 11:06:21 pm
Can you tell us where in the coach the loose connection was located?
We were near the end of our 180 mile trip today when the rear view monitor became very dim and then turned completely blue for a short time.  Then the dim image reappeared.  Sounds something like what you experienced.
I haven't had time to start looking for the problem and we plan to be on our way again early tomorrow (Sunday) and hope you can help me locate a loose connection.
109  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 28, 2013, 10:45:59 pm
Thanks for your input on this, too.  Very good!
110  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 25, 2013, 12:06:35 am
Thanks for the great reply to my questions. I plan to follow your procedure.
111  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Night/Day Shades Rattling on: September 24, 2013, 09:10:56 pm
Welcome to the forum and thanks for the window shade tip.  The rattling was most annoying to us at night when we would roll over in our twin beds and bump against the shades.  We have just now installed pieces of soft side Velcro strip to the shades and the rattling is gone! 
Best regards,
Bruce and Sharon
112  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another sani con tank flushing question on: September 24, 2013, 06:28:04 pm
I have some more questions on the use of the Sani-con system, too.  So, I'm tagging them on here.  (Please forgive me for bothering you with such trivial matters.)

First a long description:
I alway dump the black tank with the Sani-con system and follow the recommended procedure of tank equalization and draining the black tank to try to keep it clean and flushed out.  I alway add Thetford Aqua-Kem and about a gallon of water when I know the tank is empty.  But, after every dump is complete, the indicator lights inside says that the black tank is 2/3 full.  I then flush the black tank with my flush water hose until I can see that the water coming out of the tank looks clear.  Now, the indicator light says the black tank is empty.  I didn't expect to need to do the extra flush after every black dump.

Is the Aqua-Kem inadequate to enable a clean flush?  Should I use a different product?  Should I just do as I'm doing and be happy to have the Sani-con instead of just the old messy 3" system?

Another long description:
When we're in the same RV park location for more than a few days, I've been using the 3" dump valve to drain the gray tank every day if the dump station is near the rear of the coach and I can connect with a short 3" type hose.  I leave the 3" drain tube connected, so it is a quick task to open the gray valve in the sani-con compartment and the 3" valve at the back end, then reverse the process after the gray tank is empty.  I use the 3" drain for this because I'm reluctant to leave the Sani-con hose laying out on the ground and it often doesn't stay screwed into the dump as the 3" hose does.

Now for a couple of questions:
1.  I've been closing the Sani-con gray valve every day rather than leave it open and let the little "open" light stay on.  I hate the thought of that light burning out and have to replace it.  Am I being too cautious here? (I've read that some of you leave the valve open in a similar situation--any problem?)
2.  Maybe this question will help resolve the question above:  I just noticed today that when I open the Sani-con gray tank with the Sani-con switch, the pull handle on the gray tank comes out automatically.  Could I just pull that handle out manually and avoid the constant "light" issue, or would I break something?

PS: I know there is a gray tank overflow by-pass on the Sani-con that I could rely on, but then I'd still have the "open" light issue, right?

113  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Insulating the doghouse on: September 24, 2013, 05:03:49 pm
Hi Mark,

This reply doesn't answer your question directly because I've not considered insulating the doghouse before. 

But, I agree that the engine noise is very loud when the tranny shifts down at high rpms.  This happens to us when the engine is trying to maintain the speed I have set (usually 55mph or less while we're towing here in California) on steep climbs.  I've found that if I just release the speed control and ease off on the gas pedal a little the tranny shifts back up and I can maintain 45mph at the lower rpms with less noise.

We're usually not in a rush to get somewhere, so that works for us.

Please let us know if you find a better solution for yourself.

114  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 24, 2013, 03:39:09 pm
I agree with your summary on the handling issue.  Thanks for another of your excellent posts!
115  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 24, 2013, 03:08:49 pm
It's good to hear that options are available to help all RVers have a safe and pleasant time driving their rigs.  I'm sharing our experience with hope that someone might benefit from it.

The minor handling issue that we had with our 2552 was not so much the feeling of being blown aside by a passing truck, but most often just the feeling of the coach drifting to one side or the other while traveling on the highway requiring more steering adjustments than I would normally expect in another vehicle.  I could live with those adjustments, but wanted to minimize them if we could and also enhance safety while driving a large vehicle.

I could see that the Safe-T-Plus definitely helps to keep the coach moving forward on a straight line as well as providing protection from the wheels being pulled off of the road due to a blow-out, etc.  Our Henderson installer took along some tools on a test drive with us after the Safe-T-Plus was put on, and we could see that the coach had a tendency to move too much to the right on its own as we traveled down a road with only a small amount of center crown.  We stopped in a turn-out along the road while the installer crawled under the coach to make a minor adjustment which resulted in the coach now moving almost perfectly straight.  He didn't want to make any further adjustment as that might give the coach a tendency to move left (which could cause a problem at some point).

After many more miles of highway driving, I feel that the remaining required steering adjustments are the normal type that are needed in any vehicle on the road.

116  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 23, 2013, 12:38:10 pm
I don't think that the actual length of a coach makes a great difference in the tendency to road wander.  But the ratio of wheel base to coach length could make a difference.  For example, if a coach with a certain wheel base were to be made longer without changing the wheel base (making the ratio of wheel base to length smaller), the extra length and weight would extend behind the rear axle.  This would likely cause the "tail to wag the dog" and make steering more difficult.  Just a thought.
117  Main Forum / General Discussion / Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 23, 2013, 02:09:18 am
After traveling in our 2014 Model 2552 for several weeks, we want to report how happy we are with our decision to buy it.  Living in it is a pleasure and driving it is fairly easy.  The ride is comfortable enough and not at all the “truck-like” feeling that we anticipated.

We did experience some “wandering” of the coach while driving on the freeway that was bothersome in keeping the vehicle going in a straight line due to the many minor steering wheel adjustments required.  This was something we could live with, but hoped could be improved.

We wanted an expert opinion on the handling and wheel alignment to see if even minor improvements could be made.  So, we had Henderson’s Line-up in Grants Pass, Oregon do their Road Performance Assessment with us.  They describe this as “a systematic, diagnostic 15-mile road test that reveals steering and suspension problems over a variety of road surfaces.”

The report we received (both verbal and written) was very encouraging.  They feel that no improvement was needed in suspension, braking, or weight distribution.  They did suggest that we install a Safe-T-Plus unit and check the alignment of all wheels.

The reason for the Safe-T-Plus is to improve the tracking under normal circumstances and to provide safety in situations such as a blowout, a sudden gust of wind from a passing truck, or a pothole in the road.  It is a steering control device that will automatically stabilize the vehicle.

We followed both of the recommendations.  Only minor adjustments were needed in the front wheel alignment and none for the rear wheels.  The Safe-T-Plus definitely eliminated most of the wandering and gives us more confidence while driving.

The peace of mind we enjoy now justifies the cost involved. We highly recommend the personnel at Henderson’s who were all extremely knowledgeable, helpful and accommodating.  They even allowed us to plug in and stay overnight at their facility.

Bruce and Sharon
118  Main Forum / General Discussion / Questions about HWH jack operation on: September 23, 2013, 12:06:16 am
I posted these questions before in "Tips and Tricks" and got a couple of replies.  Sparky suggested I post them in this section to get more replies.

My questions are:

1.  How should I interpret the HWH Operator's Manual statement that says "REMEMBER, if lifted too high, the vehicle may roll forward or backward off the jacks."  My question is how high is too high?  We're still trying to understand how to use the jacks.

I understand that some weight must be left on the rear wheels because the parking brake is applied to those and help prevent the vehicle from rolling.  How do you determine how much weight should be left on the rear?  And is there a certain height limit for the front wheels?

2.  Do the HWH jacks automatically stop extending when a maximum is reached?

I've never held the extend button long enough on any jack to see if it would stop on its own.


119  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: How much lift is "too high" with HWH jacks? on: September 22, 2013, 11:37:01 pm
Like you, most of our stays are in RV parks with fairly level sites.  This week we are staying at Premier RV Resort in Redding, Ca and our site is almost perfectly level.  We still put down the jacks just to stabilize the coach especially when using the patio door.  Only takes a few minutes to put them down and it's good to give them regular exercise.
120  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: How much lift is "too high" with HWH jacks? on: September 22, 2013, 01:14:07 am

I'm happy to hear that you have interest in this topic.

I use the jacks as described in the hwh owners manual, which I would describe as manual.  We first extend all four jacks (unfold them), then extend the jacks on the low wheels until the coach is level.  Once we are level, extend the remaining jacks until they touch the ground.

As I mentioned in the original post, sometime the coach is too far off level to start with and we run out of safe (too much) jack extension before we reach level.  How much is "too much" was my original question.

When I want more lift than I feel is safe with the jacks, I've been driving up on some leveling blocks before extending the hwh jacks.  We need to put additional blocks on the ground under the jacks before starting to extend them. 

I'm not aware of any automatic procedure with these jacks and had never thought about taking some weight off of the tires by extending the jacks while the coach is in storage.  Maybe someone else has some opinions on this.


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