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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: What do you consider a MUST for a Phoenix Cruiser on: December 24, 2017, 08:22:19 am
I consider a spare tire a must.  I have never needed to use ours but it would be a big headache if I needed it and I did not have it right there with me to install.  It may be just for peace of mind knowing I have if I need it.  I assume a spare is still offered as an option?

Thanks,

JJ
2  Main Forum / Polls / Let's talk Oil on: December 23, 2017, 11:55:01 am
Whenever they have motor oil on rebate at Menards, I always stock up.  With all the options, I am curious what everyone uses with their Triton V10 engines.  I am interested in what weight you use and if you use conventional, blend, or full synthetic.  Also, if you have a favorite brand oil, I am interested in that as well.  I am sure there is lots of great advice on this question. 

Thanks!

JJ
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing problem on: November 22, 2017, 08:28:48 am
There is a hot lead in the seven pin connector on the back of your PC. I had my installer run a wire from the same pin on the front of my Jeep to the battery, when he installed the braking system. The braking system turns on the toad brake lights and this runs down the battery. The hot wire recharges the battery from the PC. I hope this helps.

Tom,
I have considered trying that but was concerned I could get into situations that would exceed the amperage rating for the fuse on the RV.  I have seen the following offered to protect against possible overloads and shorts. . . but it is a bit pricey. 

http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html

I am glad your solution is working for you.

Thanks,

JJ
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing problem on: November 22, 2017, 04:43:35 am
Hi Janey
We tow a 2013 Honda CR-V and our battery would sometimes be dead after full day trips.  We could not disconnect the battery completely as we have a Brake Buddy installed that can use quite a bit of power over a long trip.  To solve our problem we did the following:

1)  Added a switch to disconnect power form the radio/navigation system - it consumes a lot of power.  Originally I would just remove the fuse but quickly got tired of crawling under the dash to perform that procedure.  Then I added a switch.  I just made my own harness with switch and fuse holder but it appears Roadmaster offers a kit for this:
    http://roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/electrical/fusemaster.html


2)  Even with the switch, on longer trips our battery would be dead.  Our 2013 Honda CR-V came from the factory with a very small battery (only 410 CCA "cold cranking amps".   I found a great method to install a larger batter on "CRVownersclub.com" website.  Here is the link to the specific thread:
    http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/24-do-yourself-mods/35034-larger-group-24-battery-install.html
I followed the instructions and did this upgrade myself.  It is a very tight fit for the new battery, but it has plenty of power now (710 CCA)

Even with these upgrades, if we go on multi-day trips I will start the CRV for 10 minutes or so to charge the battery just for good measure at the end of the travel day.  Just remember to follow the towing instructions for your CRV and your supplemental braking system.

I am not sure if this will work for you but it did the trick for us.  There may be more elegant solutions by tapping power from the Phoenix Cruiser to charge the CR-V battery while towing that you may want to look into as well.

JJ
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Trac Bar on: November 16, 2017, 06:52:11 pm
Thanks for the additional information!  Bumpiness and expansion joints have never been an issue for us, I guess a key difference could be the E350 vs E450 chassis.  I will be interested to learn more on how your new shocks perform.
JJ
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Trac Bar on: November 10, 2017, 05:02:40 am
Mike
We tow a 2013 Honda CRV with our 2007 2350 that is on a E-350 chassis.  When the CR-V was connected, it negatively impacted the handling of the RV, especially when passed by large vehicles pushing a lot of air.  This started me down the path of the following suspension improvements:

-  Safe-T-Plus steering damper
-  Rear sway bar (Roadmaster)
-  Rear Trac-bar  (Blue Ox)
-  Front Sway Bar (Hellwig)

This did make a noticeable improvement in the handling of our RV.   For this installation, the RV did not have to be lifted off the ground nor any wheels taken off.  I did not swap the rear shocks off as I recall the top bolts on the shocks were going to be a challenge as they were right up against the floor of the RV - I was not planning on changing them out anyway.  I cannot speak to your 2351 or the E450, so I don't know if you will face different challenges.  Plus your RV is several years newer than ours, so I cannot speak to any changes they may have made in those years. 

Could you please share what is motivating you to make the suspension improvements?  We are considering updating to a 2351 in the future and did not think we would need to make all of these suspension improvements.   I was assuming the upgrade to the E450 (instead of our E350) and weight distribution improvements of the extra foot between the front and rear wheels (2350 vs 2351) and moving the water tank forward (our 2007 has the weight of the water tank all the way back) would have eliminated the handling issues.

Thanks,

JJ
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 19, 2016, 07:12:42 pm
Just a quick follow up, yesterday I saw a Wrangler being towed by a sprinter, doing 75 mph across  I90 in South Dakota. We played leap frog for an hour. Ended up in same camp ground in Wall, SD. Will see if I can talk to him this morning.

Wow . . .  I am totally amazed a Sprinter has enough under the hood to tow a Wrangler.  I would have liked to have seen that.  I sure hope you get a chance to talk to him as I am really curious how it does on acceleration, braking, handling, and mountains.   
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 18, 2016, 08:42:36 pm
Thanks everyone for sharing your experience.  I ended up purchasing a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 75th anniversary edition.  It is silver and I think it will look great going down the road behind the PC.  It will be a while before I have the base plate and wiring installed for the lights, I plan on doing it myself when I have some free time.  I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,

JJ
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 17, 2016, 06:00:51 pm
I am considering buying a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad.  I am interested in any feedback I can get related to how well the Phoenix Cruiser does pulling the Wrangler.   I currently have a Honda CRV and I am a bit concerned about the extra weight of the Wrangler.  Based on my research the Wrangler is 4294 lbs vs. the CRV at 3358 lbs.   That is nearly a 1000 lbs more for the Wrangler or 28% more weight.  Do you think I will notice much difference?  I have a 2350.

Thank you,

JJ
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pros and cons of a generator on: May 29, 2016, 04:25:03 pm
Well it appears unanimous, a generator is the way to go.  Our next RV will definitely have one.  Thanks for everyone's input!

JJ
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Pros and cons of a generator on: May 26, 2016, 06:06:43 pm
Our current PC 2350 does not have a generator.  We often thought it would be great to have one giving us more freedom from needing to plug in when we camp (especially when we need AC).  Having never had a generator in our RVs, we can't say we truly know the real hassles of having one.  How reliable are they?  How difficult is it to change the oil and do maintenance?  Is there anyone that has a generator that never uses it or wishes they did not have one?
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Flat towing on: May 17, 2016, 09:17:27 pm
We tow a 2013 CRV with our 2007 2350.  We experienced the same thing as you, when not towing the RV handled fine.   When the CR-V was connected it negatively impacted the handling of the RV, especially when passed by large vehicles pushing a lot of air.  This started me down the path of doing several suspension improvements:

-  Safe-T-Plus steering damper
-  Rear sway bar (Roadmaster)
-  Rear Trac-bar
-  Front Sway Bar (Hellwig)
-  Quiet hitch (eliminates any side to side play in the tow bar/receiver connection)

All this has helped quite a lot and I am pleased with the improvements.  I don't get concerned with upcoming trucks anymore.  I don't know for a fact, but I would bet the rear trac-bar made the biggest improvement for the passing truck issue. 

I am not sure I am following your statement, "I don't think safe to stearate is the answer as it is probably the car that is pulling the coach."   Also I am curious about what chassis you have with your 2350 (E350 or E450).  I thought the more recent suspension improvements did not require all the upgrades that I made with my older 2007 E350. 

JJ
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 20, 2016, 07:46:48 pm
Nice!

What was the cost?

Ron, I bought the new thermostat on EBAY for $23.09 plus $5.89 shipping/handling.  I wonder if you have 2 thermostats on yours, one for propane and one for electric?  Or maybe one controls both?

Thanks,

JJ
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 19, 2016, 07:42:36 pm
I have the adjustable hot water heater thermostat installed.  Easy installation (picture and instructions in photos).  I checked the hot water heater, still no clicking, and at the lowest setting the temperature was 110 degrees when the burner turned off.   

ThumbsUp 

I can dial the temperature up from this point.   Ready for our next trip!   Smile

JJ

15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 14, 2016, 09:36:20 pm
With the newly gained knowledge from this forum, I spent some time this evening trying to figure out the mysteries of my hot water heater.  I checked for loose/corroded connections and everything seemed good.  I turned on the hot water heater and the burner ignited right away as always.  The piezo ignitor remained clicking as it has in the past.  Upon further looking, I found that the end of the piezo ignitor was too far out of the main flow of the flame.  I gave a gentle push on the bracket holding the ignitor, and the sparking stopped.  The picture shows the position of the ignitor after I made the very minor adjustment.  I suspect the electronic module is still sending a signal for a spark, but it cannot occur when it is in the flow of the flame.  To check my theory, I shut off the gas valve at the propane tank while the burner was on.  As the pressure died down, the flame went out and the ignitor immediately started sparking.  As soon as I turned the propane valve back on, the flame re-ignited.  One problem solved!

I then left the hot water heater on so I could get a temperature measurement as Joe suggested.  I used an infrared thermometer I purchased years ago that I have found to provide reliable temperature measurements.  It took a while but when the burner turned off due to the thermostat, I checked the temperature.  I did this by filling a cup of water from the kitchen faucet and taking a measurement.  It measured 152 degrees.  Too hot for us!  I have the adjustable thermostat on order, it should arrive next week.

I hope this information is helpful to others.  Thanks again for everyone's great advice!

JJ
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