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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Trac Bar on: November 16, 2017, 06:52:11 pm
Thanks for the additional information!  Bumpiness and expansion joints have never been an issue for us, I guess a key difference could be the E350 vs E450 chassis.  I will be interested to learn more on how your new shocks perform.
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Trac Bar on: November 10, 2017, 05:02:40 am
We tow a 2013 Honda CRV with our 2007 2350 that is on a E-350 chassis.  When the CR-V was connected, it negatively impacted the handling of the RV, especially when passed by large vehicles pushing a lot of air.  This started me down the path of the following suspension improvements:

-  Safe-T-Plus steering damper
-  Rear sway bar (Roadmaster)
-  Rear Trac-bar  (Blue Ox)
-  Front Sway Bar (Hellwig)

This did make a noticeable improvement in the handling of our RV.   For this installation, the RV did not have to be lifted off the ground nor any wheels taken off.  I did not swap the rear shocks off as I recall the top bolts on the shocks were going to be a challenge as they were right up against the floor of the RV - I was not planning on changing them out anyway.  I cannot speak to your 2351 or the E450, so I don't know if you will face different challenges.  Plus your RV is several years newer than ours, so I cannot speak to any changes they may have made in those years. 

Could you please share what is motivating you to make the suspension improvements?  We are considering updating to a 2351 in the future and did not think we would need to make all of these suspension improvements.   I was assuming the upgrade to the E450 (instead of our E350) and weight distribution improvements of the extra foot between the front and rear wheels (2350 vs 2351) and moving the water tank forward (our 2007 has the weight of the water tank all the way back) would have eliminated the handling issues.


3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 19, 2016, 07:12:42 pm
Just a quick follow up, yesterday I saw a Wrangler being towed by a sprinter, doing 75 mph across  I90 in South Dakota. We played leap frog for an hour. Ended up in same camp ground in Wall, SD. Will see if I can talk to him this morning.

Wow . . .  I am totally amazed a Sprinter has enough under the hood to tow a Wrangler.  I would have liked to have seen that.  I sure hope you get a chance to talk to him as I am really curious how it does on acceleration, braking, handling, and mountains.   
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 18, 2016, 08:42:36 pm
Thanks everyone for sharing your experience.  I ended up purchasing a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 75th anniversary edition.  It is silver and I think it will look great going down the road behind the PC.  It will be a while before I have the base plate and wiring installed for the lights, I plan on doing it myself when I have some free time.  I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,

5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad? on: June 17, 2016, 06:00:51 pm
I am considering buying a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited as a toad.  I am interested in any feedback I can get related to how well the Phoenix Cruiser does pulling the Wrangler.   I currently have a Honda CRV and I am a bit concerned about the extra weight of the Wrangler.  Based on my research the Wrangler is 4294 lbs vs. the CRV at 3358 lbs.   That is nearly a 1000 lbs more for the Wrangler or 28% more weight.  Do you think I will notice much difference?  I have a 2350.

Thank you,

6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pros and cons of a generator on: May 29, 2016, 04:25:03 pm
Well it appears unanimous, a generator is the way to go.  Our next RV will definitely have one.  Thanks for everyone's input!

7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Pros and cons of a generator on: May 26, 2016, 06:06:43 pm
Our current PC 2350 does not have a generator.  We often thought it would be great to have one giving us more freedom from needing to plug in when we camp (especially when we need AC).  Having never had a generator in our RVs, we can't say we truly know the real hassles of having one.  How reliable are they?  How difficult is it to change the oil and do maintenance?  Is there anyone that has a generator that never uses it or wishes they did not have one?
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Flat towing on: May 17, 2016, 09:17:27 pm
We tow a 2013 CRV with our 2007 2350.  We experienced the same thing as you, when not towing the RV handled fine.   When the CR-V was connected it negatively impacted the handling of the RV, especially when passed by large vehicles pushing a lot of air.  This started me down the path of doing several suspension improvements:

-  Safe-T-Plus steering damper
-  Rear sway bar (Roadmaster)
-  Rear Trac-bar
-  Front Sway Bar (Hellwig)
-  Quiet hitch (eliminates any side to side play in the tow bar/receiver connection)

All this has helped quite a lot and I am pleased with the improvements.  I don't get concerned with upcoming trucks anymore.  I don't know for a fact, but I would bet the rear trac-bar made the biggest improvement for the passing truck issue. 

I am not sure I am following your statement, "I don't think safe to stearate is the answer as it is probably the car that is pulling the coach."   Also I am curious about what chassis you have with your 2350 (E350 or E450).  I thought the more recent suspension improvements did not require all the upgrades that I made with my older 2007 E350. 

9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 20, 2016, 07:46:48 pm

What was the cost?

Ron, I bought the new thermostat on EBAY for $23.09 plus $5.89 shipping/handling.  I wonder if you have 2 thermostats on yours, one for propane and one for electric?  Or maybe one controls both?


10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 19, 2016, 07:42:36 pm
I have the adjustable hot water heater thermostat installed.  Easy installation (picture and instructions in photos).  I checked the hot water heater, still no clicking, and at the lowest setting the temperature was 110 degrees when the burner turned off.   


I can dial the temperature up from this point.   Ready for our next trip!   Smile


11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 14, 2016, 09:36:20 pm
With the newly gained knowledge from this forum, I spent some time this evening trying to figure out the mysteries of my hot water heater.  I checked for loose/corroded connections and everything seemed good.  I turned on the hot water heater and the burner ignited right away as always.  The piezo ignitor remained clicking as it has in the past.  Upon further looking, I found that the end of the piezo ignitor was too far out of the main flow of the flame.  I gave a gentle push on the bracket holding the ignitor, and the sparking stopped.  The picture shows the position of the ignitor after I made the very minor adjustment.  I suspect the electronic module is still sending a signal for a spark, but it cannot occur when it is in the flow of the flame.  To check my theory, I shut off the gas valve at the propane tank while the burner was on.  As the pressure died down, the flame went out and the ignitor immediately started sparking.  As soon as I turned the propane valve back on, the flame re-ignited.  One problem solved!

I then left the hot water heater on so I could get a temperature measurement as Joe suggested.  I used an infrared thermometer I purchased years ago that I have found to provide reliable temperature measurements.  It took a while but when the burner turned off due to the thermostat, I checked the temperature.  I did this by filling a cup of water from the kitchen faucet and taking a measurement.  It measured 152 degrees.  Too hot for us!  I have the adjustable thermostat on order, it should arrive next week.

I hope this information is helpful to others.  Thanks again for everyone's great advice!

12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 10, 2016, 06:51:23 am

Yes, I fully agree having the temperature hotter will make the 6 gallons last longer.  Just trying to make sure the temperature is safe for our daughter.  At home, all of our faucets have a single lever which makes it easy to get a good mix of hot and cold right from the start.  Its a bit more tricky with the shower faucet in our RV.   I also try at home to have the water heater as low as possible to conserve energy cost, but high enough to not run out of hot water.  Since we have a natural gas hot water heater, this is easily adjusted.  Adding the adjustable thermostat to the RV would allow me to dial the temperature to what works for us.  But my main objective is making sure the water is not too hot.  This discussion made me curious of what is recommended for hot water temperature.  I copied below what I learned . . . thought you might be interested. 

As always, thank you for your help!


Temperature   Time to Produce Serious Burns
120F   More than 5 minutes
125F   1- 1/2 to 2 Minutes
130F   About 30 Seconds
135F   About 10 Seconds
140F   Less than 5 Seconds
145F   Less than 3 Seconds
150F   About 1-1/2 Seconds
155F   About 1 Second
160F+   Instantaneously
*Table Courtesy of Shiners Burn Institute

Temperature Guidelines
The following are guidelines for common activities using hot water.
Hand Washing: 110F - 115F
Showers: 110F - 115F
Dishwasher rinse: 130F 140F
Some models have build-in booster heaters that allow the water heater to be set at 110F - 115F.
New liquid soaps for automatic dishwashers are designed to work well at lower temperatures.
Experiment with the water temperature at the dishwasher and choose the most economical setting.
Laundry: 110F - 120F
With todays detergents, most clothes can be effectively cleaned in either warm or cold water. Washing clothes in warm or cold-water will not only save energy, but will also prevent premature wear and fading of fabrics.
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 09, 2016, 08:14:36 pm
Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice!   I checked our water heater and it is an Atwood G6A-8E.  After doing some checking I have confirmed that this is a propane only 6 Gallon Electronic ignite water heater.  I really like your idea Joe of checking the temperature of the water with a cooking thermometer.  I will do that the next time we have the unit on.  We did check the temperature of the hot water in our house, and sure enough it is around 125 degrees.  I think you are correct, we are used to a lower temperature.  So maybe our RV's water heater is just fine.  We will know for sure once we check it with the thermometer.  I was able to find the adjustable thermostat on the web.  Found one for $28 that is compatable with our water heater.  I think I am going to give that a try.

I really appreciate all the great help from this forum!


14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 08, 2016, 10:08:52 pm
Your picture and description helps a lot.  Based on that we must have a propane-only model. We just have one simple lighted rocker switch to turn on or off.  Definitely something I will add to the list of wants for our next PC. 

Based on your earlier answer, I do wonder why my piezo igniter does not stop clicking once the burner has ignited.  I just thought it might be a safety feature if the burner happened to blow out for a brief second, it would quickly re-ignite before any gases built up.  With this, however, I would expect the piezo ignitor life would be limited with it clicking all the time.  We do only run our hot water heater when we really need it, typically just a couple times a day.  The water heats up real fast and stays hot for quite a while.  Our limited use should help on the life of the ignitor. 

Thanks again,

15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A couple of hot water heater questions on: April 08, 2016, 09:32:08 pm
Thanks Ron.  Do I understand you correctly?  You can operate your hot water heater on propane or electric???  Either we have different hot water heaters or I don't know how to operate ours on electric.  I am curious how you select between propane or 110V electric?  We have a simple toggle switch just below the countertop that we flip on when we want hot water.  The toggle switch lights up red for maybe a second or two and the light turns off once the burner ignites.  Even though our RVs are the same model and model year, maybe the factory offered two different hot water heater options.  It would be great to have the option to run off electric. 

Thanks again,

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