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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I95 in Connecticut on: July 29, 2015, 08:45:48 pm
I'm originally from Connecticut and historically I95 is much better towards the end of summer rather than spring or early summer.  They do a lot of work to correct winter-induced problems and they don't usually become apparent until late August or early September.

Doesn't answer your question, and if anyone has recent info I'd also like to know.

    - Mike
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Single A/C vs. Dual A/C on: July 21, 2015, 07:29:10 am
Oh.....and I'm not sure if the standard PC A/C units have any way to adjust the direction of airflow, but the Coleman has adjustable fins on the forward and rear ends which allow for directing the air a bit.
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Single A/C vs. Dual A/C on: July 21, 2015, 07:23:31 am
We are the culprits who had the Coleman Mach 8 unit installed at the factory.  There are four varieties available: 13,500 BTU A/C, 13,500 BTU Heat Pump, 15,000 BTU A/C and 15,000 BTU Heat Pump.  We chose the 15,000 BTU A/C.  The standard units installed in a PC are 13,500 BTU units.

Noise is a very relative thing, obviously, and comparing the Coleman Mach 8 to a standard unit I would say that they are comparably noisy on high speed and the Coleman is quieter on low speed.

We also have wood floors which probably contributes to any noise being amplified a bit more than carpet or other materials.

Other benefits of the Coleman:

- Lowest low profile unit made
- Lightest low profile unit made
- Has the largest BTU resistance heater of any RV air conditioner
- Built in Kansas

These units are built by Airxcel and bear the Coleman name.

The chart on their website shows interesting info like fan speeds, amperage and such for comparison:

http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/products/rooftop/mach8.php

- Mike
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rattle My Brain... on: July 19, 2015, 11:09:39 am
Aside from 'normal' road noise, almost all of our squeaks, rattles and vibrations stemmed from the stuff we stored in the rig.  We isolated them one by one and pay more attention to how load something new. There were a few rattles caused by things like shades or cabinent doors, but if you have a partner with good ears, you'll find them.  The one noise hardest to locate turned out to be the way I stored some cans in the outdoor storage cabinet under the sink area.

  - Mike
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Single A/C vs. Dual A/C on: July 15, 2015, 10:34:48 pm
We have a 2552 with one A/C which we upgraded to a 15000 BTU Coleman unit.  A non-scientific study in our PC seems to indicate that the A/C can cool the rig down up to 25 degrees on the hottest days.....if we are careful with not leaving the doors open, ensuring the shades are down, ensuring the a/c is started early in the day, etc.  We have 50 amp service and if I had to do it all again I would keep the 50 amps and the Coleman unit, and add a second A/C.  Mostly because we would want to do some traveling in hotter climates at times (or may find ourselves there) like Arizona in July when it's 110 in the shade.  But, that's just us. 

   - Mike
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: DC power Use and Store switch on: July 11, 2015, 09:00:43 am
Hasn't happened to us yet, and I won't be much help here except to suggest calling Kermit or the Intellitec RV products technical helpline (Mark Bayus 419 965 3014). Probably a long shot since it is the weekend and all.

   - Mike
7  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Adventure Anywhere - A New Adventure on: July 08, 2015, 11:04:54 am
Congrats Ron!  She's a beauty.

We had our first grandchild, Charlie, last August and took her on her first RV camping trip (fairly locally) a couple weeks ago.  She loved it!  You're gonna have a whole lotta fun!

  - Mike
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rescreening the Coach screen door on: June 28, 2015, 09:45:45 am
Not sure if yours is the same, but ours is a Stowaway screen door.  Liftco is the frame and coach door.

Stowaway is apparently made/sold by a number of companies (Stowett, Lorge).  There are mobile screen repair companies all over the place (screenmobile.com for instance) and kits available to fix small holes at places like Home Depot, Ace, Lowes (http://www.lowes.com/pd_318956-76018-P+8096_0__?productId=3116279)

I'd suggest calling Kermit, as Sue suggested.....he might have material that can be replaced.

   - Mike
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: June 25, 2015, 09:41:04 am
Welcome Gretchen!  I'm sure you'll be a happy camper in your PC.  When we first got our rig I couldn't understand how folks just jump right into full-timing....but after living in ours on and off I definitely get it now.  Very nice, mostly easy life and no house upkeep!  Of course, Holly and John make it seem easy! 

   - Mike
10  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: HWH levelers not retracting on: June 19, 2015, 07:36:29 pm
Well, I just looked this up on the HWH website.  They only recommend cleaning the jack rod with soap and water or WD40, or lubing with WD40 depending on the situation.  They actually state that if silicone has been used then one should clean off the silicone with WD40.  It appears their stance is that the jack rod/cylinder itself should be clean but not necessarily lubed.  They do state there are other points which should be lubed with WD40.

Here is the FAQ link: http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20673aafaq.html
Here is the document link: http://www.hwh.com/ml47149.pdf

- Mike

11  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: HWH levelers not retracting on: June 16, 2015, 05:55:48 pm
I've had the same problem for a few months now (front right jack not extending on the first couple tries). Finally decided to try Dick's method and it works wonderfully.  No more frustration and much more playtime. 

- Mike
12  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Another one for the checklist... on: June 16, 2015, 05:51:05 pm
Our PC's generator exhaust pipe is held up by a u-bolt which is attached to the generator frame with a 2 inch piece of rubber of some type.  The rubber on ours broke on the way home from our last trip and wasn't really noticeable until I was giving the rig a once over preparing for another trip.  The u-bolt was also pretty rusty.  This is an easy fix if you can squeeze in there, but not something one would normally check routinely.

   - Mike
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Air not working on: June 07, 2015, 01:47:18 pm
We had a larger A/C unit installed when our 2552 was built.  Opted for the Coleman Mach8 which has a low profile and increased capacity (15,000 btu vs. 13,500 btu). We also opted for the standard A/C, not the heat pump version.  Although we do have 50 amp service on our rig the unit will run off the standard PC generator.  If you intend on researching this unit Coleman has them built by Airxcel, so a search on both may help.

    - Mike
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Problem on: June 03, 2015, 10:15:42 pm
You might want to see if the campground/park can accommodate you in that original site until you can figure it out.....usually they can, especially in a case like this.  They might also have a good mechanic on call that you can use to check out the slide.

While it could be something serious, it could also be as simple as an extraneous screw from the factory that got caught up in the mechanism and just popped loose.  We had half a hardware stores worth of screws left in the cabinets and under the beds, etc. by the factory.

   - Mike
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Facebook users and Phoenix Cruiser on: May 27, 2015, 10:15:41 pm
An easy to use app with ability to easily post (much larger) pictures would be more desirable to me than the forum here, but for us Facebook is far from ideal, for many reasons.

   - Mike
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