Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15] 16 17 ... 22
211  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fresh Water Tank Drain on: December 31, 2013, 11:55:38 pm
Thanks, all!  The reasons make a lot of sense.   I'm going to have to think this thru a bit to ensure it's durable and aesthetically pleasing.  Otherwise, for me it is just too easy a project not to attempt.

 - Mike

Oh, and Happy New Year!
212  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: leak at awning on: December 31, 2013, 12:33:57 pm
George:  When you say 'wedge' what part you referring to?  I'll be takings. Look at mine tomorrow.

  - Mike
213  Main Forum / General Discussion / Fresh Water Tank Drain on: December 31, 2013, 10:11:53 am
I recall Tom mentioning that PC's once came with external fresh water tank drain valves mounted somewhere on the side of the rig.  I was thinking of installing something similar, for a few reasons: 1) It seems fairly easy to do, 2) Instead of dumping the tank straight down under the rig I could easily hook up a hose and dump it where I need to, 3) It would provide an easily accessible source of fresh water outside for filling dog bowls, cooking, etc.

The short piece of pipe coming out of the tank and under the rig is Pex piping and with the Sharkbite quick connect fittings available, it seems like a breeze to install.  I was wondering about a couple of things though.  What were the issues people had that prompted Kermit to stop installing this?  If it were installed, where would it be routed to?  The easiest place is unfortunately too close to the exhaust pipe for my taste.  The closest cabinet is the slide-out 'cooler' in the right rear corner.

  - Mike
214  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: WEST COAST TRAVEL WINTER TIME on: December 30, 2013, 10:45:28 pm
It's in McCloud, just off I-5 on 89 and just south of Mt Shasta.

I wouldn't rule out the Red Bluff area in December.  We are staying at Durango RV resort for a few days this week.  It's fairly upscale and runs $40-$80 night, but have nice amenities, pet friendly, and a number of sites right on the Sacramento River.  (It also participates in the RV Golf Club, so either two nights free or 50% off depending on site).  The weather forecasts sunny with highs in the low 70's and low around 40.

  - Mike
215  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: WEST COAST TRAVEL WINTER TIME on: December 29, 2013, 11:24:44 pm
Sparky: Have you considered trading in for the 4 wheel drive PC?   Wink

216  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: WEST COAST TRAVEL WINTER TIME on: December 29, 2013, 11:13:54 pm
McCloud Dance Country does look nice, but they close in the winter.  Open Apr 1st thru Oct 31st.
217  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Starting the genset on: December 26, 2013, 10:16:35 am
I'm not near our PC at the moment, nor the manual, but I seem to remember that there may be an altitude calibration knob or slider of some sort on the generator?   I would imagine having starting problems occurring if this setting was out of whack with the altitude you are currently at.

 - Mike
218  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Doghouse insulation project (background post 1) on: December 25, 2013, 02:19:56 am
Awesome job, Mark!  I have the same hearing problem, but in my right ear.  Too much time in Navy ship engine rooms.  I had this on my long-term project list and you've made my job much much easier.

  - Mike
219  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Coleman Mach 8 A/C Unit on: December 23, 2013, 04:27:52 pm
Tom: The Coleman cost $300 more than the standard A/C.  We had the option of a second A/C, because we had the 50 amp power setup.  Our thinking was that we wanted a bit more cooling than the 13,500 btu standard unit, and adding a second 11,000 btu unit was overkill in the 2552. We decided to look around at 15,000 btu units and the Coleman was a standout.  Very low profile on the roof (8 inches), very light (90 lbs), very quiet fan on low speed, highest btu strip heat of any RV unit (6000), operates in weather up to 125 degrees (ie: Scottsdale), two motors that provide the same high BTUs of cooling on both high and low speed operation.

Shipper: Yes, the fan is just as quiet using the heat strip and it only operates on low speed.  Yes also to the question of the heat strip running on both 'auto' and 'on' fan modes.

- Mike

220  Main Forum / General Discussion / Coleman Mach 8 A/C Unit on: December 22, 2013, 02:20:30 pm
Another option we had installed on our 2014 2552 is the Coleman Mach 8 15,000 btu A/C unit with heat strip.  This was not an additional unit, but rather a substitute for the standard A/C.  It is also a standard A/C unit, not the heat pump version.

Obviously, the weather isn't exactly at its finest for reviewing this kind of thing yet, but there are some things you might want to know if you are considering this yourselves.

The Coleman is made by AirXcel (rooftop section model 47203A879, ceiling section  model 9330F4552) and they use the RVComfort.HP thermostat by RV Products (model 8530-348).  This can be confusing, since the HP stands for Heat Pump and it is also used for the non heat pump units.  The thermostat literature only references heat pump units, so you'll need to infer a lot when referencing it for the non heat pump units. Unlike a lot of units I've seen, this Coleman does not have any controls on the ceiling unit.  Everything is controlled through the thermostat....gas heat, electric heat, a/c, fan speeds.

There are three main connection points.  One under the passenger side bed next to the furnace, one at the thermostat behind the wall and one on the roof in a control box at the a/c unit.

Here is the odd (to me at least) thing about this unit.  Switching the thermostat to electric heat may or may not also turn on the furnace.  It depends on the differential between current room temperature and where you set the temperature you want.  If the differential is more than 5 degrees, the furnace lights and runs along with the heat strip until a 5 degree differential or less is reached.  It makes sense to operate like this and it certainly would not be everyone's ideal way of operating, but you can just run the heat strip if you remember not to crank up the heat beyond 5 degrees above current room temperature.  I'm going to live with this way of doing business for a while and see if it becomes a hassle or great feature.  One could always install a second thermostat or just a switch for the heat strip.

Those interested in specs:   Blower Motor: FLA 1.3 HP 1/8    Fan Motor: FLA 1.8 HP 0.18    Electric Heater: 13.9A    Compressor: model 1450-405, LRA 63.0, RLA 14.0

The only other thing I can report on right now is the fan noise.  On high, it is loud.  On low it is quite quiet....very easy to carry on normal conversations, not distracting at all.  I guess this is all subjective, and again I don't have the stock unit to compare it to, so if you're interested in hearing it for yourself, look us up!

  - Mike
221  Main Forum / General Discussion / Installed options: SurgeGuard and 50 amp Service on: December 22, 2013, 12:36:58 pm
Now that all of our Christmas shopping is done I have time to share our experience and opinions about two of the options we had installed on our 2014 2552; the hard-wired SurgeGuard and 50 amp electrical service.  My next post will be about the Coleman Mach 8 A/C with heat strip.

First, Kermit told me that they've only installed 50 amp service on about three or four PC's, and that ours is the first in which they've installed a hard-wired SurgeGuard.

It's really nice to be able to run the AC or electric heat, along with the microwave, tv's, coffee maker, etc without too much concern about the overall consumption.  I think this will really come in handy when we get to much warmer climates, like Arizona in the summer.  Won't have to turn off the AC when cooking dinner in the oven.  Since we haven't owned an RV before, we probably won't realize how much more convenient it is versus 30 amp service.

Since just about everything is a trade off in the RV world, 50 amp service comes with its negatives.  Heavier cable means more weight in the PC.  The 50 amp power cord is heavier and thicker, which might be an issue for some folks.  I don't find it to be too cumbersome or overly heavy, but it does take up more room in the back storage.  Also need to have additional adapters (50 amp to 30 amp, 50 amp to 20 amp). And both the cable and adapters are much more expensive than the 30 amp variety.  Lastly, some RV parks charge extra for 50 amp service usage.

For us the benefits outweigh the negatives at this point, since we'll be traveling quite a bit and hopefully for a very long time, and 50 amps will give us more options along the way.

The SurgeGuard unit in our rig was installed in the space under the drivers side bed, between the bed and the exterior wall.  In order to get to it you'd need to remove the hydraulic pistons that hold the bed up, remove the bed and remove the long narrow piece of wood that supports the bed along the exterior wall.  We hope we never need to do that. I'm sure they placed it there because it didn't need to be accessed, since we also opted for the remote monitoring panel which is mounted right near the inverter monitoring panel, tank level indicators and generator start switch behind the drivers seat.  Without the remote panel installed the unit would need to be accessible so you can see the voltage, current, fault lights on the actual unit itself.

The unit displays voltage (both legs), current and fault conditions in real time. It protects against excessive voltage (Low <102V and High >132V), miswired pedestal, open neutral, open ground, high/low frequency, reverse polarity.  It has an auto reset on power restoration, and a 2 min 15 sec reset delay that protects the A/C unit.

When you connect to generator or shore power, the unit will start a countdown of 128 seconds before allowing power into the RV.  It's looking for the correct stable power from the source.  If there are no issues after 128 seconds, it kicks in the transfer switch.  If you install SurgeGuard, be sure to let your service techs know it has this 128 second delay before the rig is powered up.  It sometimes confuses them.

It performed brilliantly during the first week we had it.  Phoenix forgot to install a short jumper wire on the transfer switch and SurgeGuard detected the problem and wouldn't give me power from the generator.  When we hooked up to a shore power pedestal the first night, the SurgeGuard detected a reverse polarity problem in that pedestal and wouldn't give me power.  It also stores a history of faults, so you can see if there were any issues if you weren't around.

I don't have any experience with other products that are like this, but we are pleased so far and the unit gives us a good level of comfort knowing our investment is protected.  Also, since it is hard-wired and inside the rig, the equipment can't be stolen.

- Mike

222  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Trackvision sat box on: December 22, 2013, 11:08:15 am
We are also looking into plans and receivers (for our Winegard RoadTrip Mission). Both are similar in that the receiver and services available depend on the model of dish you have.  You can look that up on the KVH site ( I know that Dish Network provides a nice plan which is Pay-As-You-Go, and I think was what you meant by a monthly plan.  From what I've read, it doesn't appear that you'd need a KVH box, just a box compatible with your antenna and services (GPS/DVB, DVB, HD, Bell/Dish/DirecTV, etc)

- Mike
223  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: December 22, 2013, 12:38:55 am
Ok, my final post in this topic.  Everything has been resolved.  As I posted earlier, our 50 amp power setup along with a hard wired SurgeGuard is 'unusual' and PC USA didn't install a jumper wire on the transfer switch.  Kermit walked me through it and 5 mins later I had power.

The no-heat/thermostat issue was finally resolved.  Again, this installation was non-standard....we opted for the Coleman Mach 8 15,500 BTU A/C with heat strip (not the heat pump model) Kermit and I talked about it for a while and it looked like either a miswired thermostat or a short somewhere. Due to how the the thermostat wiring runs in the PC, I couldn't find the problem myself so I brought it to one of our local RV dealers with a massive repair facility (Cordelia RV). They found the problem on the first day I brought it in (there was a short somewhere) but due to their backlog of service issues (they had about 60 RV's in there for one issue or another) they couldn't get to it for two weeks.  Thankfully, these were the two weeks we experienced an abnormal two weeks of hard freeze in this area, so our PC was cozy and warm in a service bay, inside.  Turns out the short was due to a wire nut coming loose, falling off and making contact with the control box in the rooftop a/c section.  Not only did they not charge me, but also washed the rig nicely.

We now have a fully functional and gorgeous PC that is ready to get on the road.  First stops....Red Bluff, Palm Desert, San Diego after Christmas.  Then across the country once we get the Ford Edge tow gear and braking system hooked up.

Kudos to Kermit for keeping in touch and being extremely supportive! I'll post more about our 50 amp service, SurgeGuard and Coleman a/c in relevant topics.

 - Mike
224  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: TST Tire Pressure Monitor on: December 21, 2013, 11:53:21 pm
Oh, I found this DIY project for cup holders which I ran across after the fact.   Pretty neat idea, but you have to be sure you have your cupholder dimensions right.....
225  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / TST Tire Pressure Monitor on: December 21, 2013, 11:38:29 pm
Finally got around to adding and mounting the TST Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS w/6Flow Through Sensors - Model TM-507SG)

They make non flow through sensors as well, and in hindsight I would probably go with those, since they are smaller.  The flow-through models allow you to inflate the tires without removing the sensors.

The instructions are not that great, but once you figure out what's going on the system is easy to program and pretty nice overall.  Took me about 1/2 hr to get everything installed, programmed and ready to go.

POSITIVES:  Accurate wireless readings to each tire.  Configurable alarms for over pressure, under pressure and temperature.  Standard alarms for rapid tire deflation and communications errors. The monitor in the cab is very small, low profile.

NEGATIVES:  It appears that the lowest over-pressure setting is 101 psi.  I have to check on this but that's what it appears to me at first glance.  Not the best manual.....looks like a techie, not a user, wrote it.  No problem attaching to the rear tires, but the flow-through sensors are large enough that they just barely fit on the front tires, due to the PC wheel covers in front.  I imagine the standard sensors would fit just fine.  They aren't hard to install or remove....just screw on and off.

I installed the monitor along with the ScanGauge together in a cup holder mount (see pic below) and it works very well.  The mount is from Bracketron ( and is a pretty nice holder that fits in cup holders (adjustable) and expands to fit a variety of devices.

Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15] 16 17 ... 22