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256  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 18, 2013, 01:39:27 pm
Holly: I searched the PC forum and didn't see any reference to condensation.  I've seen on other forums that some folks have that problem.  Matter of fact when we made our initial one night trip our neighbor who had a popup type camper van was washing and drying out a pad that he puts under his mattress that collects condensation.  I wouldn't think the 2552 would have that issue (at least on the passenger side) with the airflow grill and all those little heat sources under there.  Maybe the drivers side bed?

Ron: I was thinking about possible replacement materials (wood, composites or even maybe plastics). I know that the pressboard and MDF materials like the existing bed board are generally heavier than most woods, which would be another reason to replace.  I'll be stalking the shelves this week to see what I can find.

- Mike
257  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sanitizing 2552 Water System on: November 17, 2013, 08:39:01 pm
Now there's a potpourri of responses!  All sorts of people and all sorts of lifestyles and ideas.  Gotta love this country!  Thanks to all of you for your input and assistance.


I can appreciate coming from the place with the best water in the country and the probable aversion to anything other.  It's a bit like me living in the Napa area and being spoiled by great wine.  Can't really get my taste buds to appreciate Boone's Farm, Cupcake, Barefoot, etc. anymore.  I guess we are both pretty lucky to live where we do.

We will be using the PC for a significant period of time throughout the year, from boondocking and dry camping to high-end RV resorts.  This is a big reason we chose a Phoenix.  Big enough to spend significant amounts of time comfortably, multiple options for power in and power out, multiple options for water, etc.  Our theory is if we can live like we could (for the most part) in our own home in many places, had the option of living comfortably at levels less than that, and were able to drive it without too much worry, we found the perfect rig.  We think we did.  We also believe that if the rig has a toilet, shower, kitchen, power systems and water systems designed for 'normal use' we will expect them function correctly with normal maintenance and we would use them like as would in our own home to the greatest extent possible.  So, we expect to go #1 and #2 in the toilet and use TP.  We expect that when hooked up to generator or shore power we can run most everything in the rig.  We also expect that we can use either city water or use the potable water tank without much of an issue as we would at home, given proper care and maintenance.  If we couldn't do all that, we wouldn't have spent over $100k for the PC and instead just opted for the best damn tent we could find.  But that's just us...everyone's mileage may (and truly does) vary.  Long-winded way to say we are eager to know how all systems are supposed to work and we will expect them to work if we do our part in maintaining, treating, exercising things.  Sanitizing the tanks and system, and regulating/filtering city water with a good regulator and filter seems standard for ensuring decent water quality and correct pressures.  I don't feel guilty about the water waste in sanitizing the tanks since we plan to use the PC shower almost exclusively, getting in the habit of Navy showers.  We figure we'll save much more water in the long run if we don't use the RV park showers which would make it tempting to take much longer showers.

Since I don't yet know for certain if the tank is included in the sanitizing process using the four way valve, I'm going to use the method everyone mentioned ,with a slight variation on Sparky's apparatus.   I'll use the gravity feed fill connection on the passengers side of the PC, and bring both water and chlorine in at the same time using a siphon (which will bring in the chlorine) attached to the hose, which is attached to city water.  Adjusted correctly for the right ratio, the siphon seems the easiest and least messy way to go.  I'll fill the tank until it flows out the overflow, spray off the side of the PC, turn the pump on, run the faucets and showers, let it sit, drain the tank, refill with fresh water, drain, refill.

And, Holly, again great advice!

Thanks again to you all......even if I don't understand or agree, it keeps the brain cells active!  I'd write more, but I have to go study the PC manual some more....might be something there I missed.   rolling on the floor

- Mike
258  Main Forum / General Discussion / Sanitizing 2552 Water System on: November 17, 2013, 07:09:05 am
Okay, next question.... I've read what I could find regarding sanitizing the fresh water system and am getting ready to do it.  I could only find hints as to how you all actually get the bleach into the system.  I'm assuming that one method is through the winterizing valve by the pump.  I'd like to try what I think is one of the more obvious methods which is through the 'Anderson Kantleak' four function fill station.

I now understand that the four selections on the station and their meanings are:

City Use city water to feed fixtures from 3/4" hose connection.
Normal Pump from the on-board tank to the fixtures using on-board pump.
Tank Pressure fill the tank from 3/4" hose connection at backflow preventer.
Sanitize/Winterize Draw in sanitizers and winterizing fluids from a bucket utilizing the on-board pump.

So, obviously I can sanitize by placing the switch in Sanitize/Winterize position, attach one end of a hose to the hose connection on the fill station, the other into a bucket of sanitizer, and turn on the water pump.

That much seems obvious.  What isn't quite obvious are a couple of things. 

1) Do you first fill the tank with water to some level? Then draw in the bleach, then fill the tank?
2) Do you mix the bleach with water in a bucket when you draw it in?
3) Will any of the liquid/bleach drawn in with the Sanitize/Winterize switch go into the fresh water tank, or just to the pump and then fixtures?

The attached diagram is the reason I asked number 3. It doesn't appear that the water tank is in the loop using Sanitize/Winterize.

Is this the preferred method of getting the bleach in there or is there a better one?

 - Mike
259  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Noisy converter? on: November 16, 2013, 03:57:34 pm
There is an opening on one side of the bed already in my model, but it's the on the end furthest from the inverter.  My ducting literally lays against the inverter (and the converter for that matter, now that I look at it). A very quiet fan, like you said, might be a good solution.  Would have to pretty quiet for some folks though.  I had just enough hearing loss from being in too many engine rooms in my early Navy days so the inverter/converter fans probably wouldn't bother me, but Joni is an amazingly light sleeper.  Don't really want any cranky people in a confined space.   OfftoBed

- Mike

260  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Noisy converter? on: November 16, 2013, 11:16:45 am
Something else to consider.  Not sure how other models are set up, but on the 2552 both the inverter and converter are under the passengers side bed.  My inverter has two tiny fans and the converter has one larger one.  What is interesting is that the inverter fans are located on the bottom of the  inverter unit, and the unit is mounted to the wall of the bed cabinet on the aisle side (the wall toward the interior of the PC not the exterior). There is only about a 3/4 inch gap, maybe less, between the fans and the wall.  I'd have to wonder if it's sufficient for air circulation and may contribute to the fan coming on, or even staying on longer.  That wall that the inverter is mounted on is solid, and not open/screened like one of the panels is on that bed frame wall further aft.  The other thing is that one of the shiny silver furnace ducts is routed directly against the inverter and I would have to believe that with the furnace on it would warm up the inverter to some degree, possibly causing the fan to operate.  Don't have the pictures available right this second, but can post them if requested. 

If I find the inverter fan to be annoying me, I'll probably try to reroute the duct a bit (or place a bit of insulation between it and the inverter) and maybe install a screen on the panel the inverter is mounted to (which may have an opposite effect of making the fan noise more noticeable....but maybe less frequent?)

 - Mike
261  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: 12 Volt Charging Station on: November 15, 2013, 10:22:41 pm
Ah!  Probably missed it....gonna hafta look!  Nice!

   - Mike
262  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 15, 2013, 10:18:36 pm
Yes, those splinters get everywhere!  We are trying to decide whether to spray it or cover it with a thin material (carpet or flooring underlayment maybe...dunno). Nice part about actually going into that compartment is that we now have lotsa extra screws that were just lying about in there just ready to make us nuts as they clanked around going down the road.  Wink

- Mike
263  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 15, 2013, 09:16:11 pm
Latest update on the no power issue:

We found the problem(s)!  Phoenix didnt install a little jumper wire on the transfer switch that enables the SurgeGuard to operate with both the generator and shore power.  SurgeGuard saw the problem and said nope, no power for you.  I installed the jumper, ran the generator and all was well!  I now have power to all outlets, including microwave.  Yay! 

I didn't have power when hooked up to shore power at the campground because SurgeGuard detected a bad condition (reverse polarity) and again said nope, no power for you (the SurgeGuard unit stores all past faults )

Fairly unlikely to have both generator and shore power conditions at the same time, which made troubleshooting a bit tougher, but after testing both it appears that all is now, except for the problem with the heating and thermostat.  And on that front, I haven't received a new thermostat yet, but further investigation leads me to believe that it was miswired as well.  Everything works well (fan high, fan low, a/c) but if it's turned to gas heat or electric heat, the fuse blows.  A bit difficult to troubleshoot since:  1) the wiring diagram for the furnace has an obvious error in the thermostat section and is missing an important bit of info, 2) the Coleman wiring diagram is doesn't quite describe using this thermostat with a non-heatpump model, and 3) the PC wiring from the back of the thermostat is non standard, undocumented, and there are transitional connections (from PC connections at the thermostat to furnace connections at the furnace) somewhere I can't locate yet.  I'm pretty close, and confident I can locate the problem on Monday after talking to Kermit, Coleman and possibly Atwood.   Least I now gots power! 

- Mike
264  Main Forum / Around the Campfire / Re: Bear Songs on: November 15, 2013, 08:52:51 pm
Toooo funny!   LOL  rolling on the floor
265  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: 12 Volt Charging Station on: November 15, 2013, 08:49:36 pm
Good info.  When you say you set it up in your cabinet and plug it in, does that mean you are plugging it into the Ford cab dash area outlet, or do you have have one of those outlets installed in your cabinet?

- Mike
266  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 15, 2013, 08:35:06 pm
Tom: ahhh....yep looks like it can be used to get at a lot of things right in that area.  I was originally thinking that the cleanout connection that's there on the drain line could most easily be accessed from that cutout.  I know (or I at least doubt) I will need to get under that bed all that much, but considering we plan to have this rig for a long time, I'm definitely going to install the lifters....once and done.

- Mike
267  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 15, 2013, 12:36:50 am
Bob: Thanks for that info.  Didn't know that.  My cutout is between the pump and furnace.  In either case, if I had to winterize using that method or access the furnace, I think I'd be happier just lifting the bed if it had the lifters on each side like the drivers side does.  I just need to be sure someone doesn't store anything in there accidentally.

- Mike
268  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 14, 2013, 04:15:06 pm
So, for those still interested in the power issue I have and the 50A setup in general here's an interim update.

PC (2552) is in storage a couple miles a way.  Went down early and pulled the particle board bed platform off on the passenger side before I talked to Kermit. 

First some general info.  The platform is screwed to a frame with eight screws. (Note to self: install little hydraulic lifters on this bed, like the drivers side bed) Found that there is a small cutout in the bed platform that gives you access to the furnace without the need to take off the whole platform.  There are some screws visible around this cutout but they do not hold the cutout on the platform.  You can just lift it off.  The screws hold a frame under the platform that holds the cutout piece.  In this bed cabinet are the converter (with breakers and fuses), inverter, furnace (and flexible ducting), water tank, water pump, drain line from the sink (with a clean out connection), assorted wires and water lines.

Also exposed the transfer switch which is located behind the drivers seat, under the generator start switch and inverter display panel, and behind the carpeted panel.  The panel is screwed to the wall with one visible screw and swings out.

Call from Kermit. He remembers that I had them hard-wire a 50 amp SurgeGuard in the PC.  This is when I also remembered that (duh!).  shrug Oh, and this is the first unit that Phoenix has installed a SurgeGuard on. The remote LCD panel for it is mounted right next to the inverter display panel, but the SurgeGuard unit itself is under the drivers side bed in the carpeted 'box' that is elevated off the floor a bit.  He had an appt, so I told him I'd read up on the SurgeGuard and do some investigating.  The SurgeGuard will protect the RV by monitoring power in from both the generator or shore power, and either won't allow power in or will remove power if: Voltage is under 102V, Voltage is over 132V, Reverse Polarity, Open Conductor, Faulty Ground.

Started the generator and waited for the delay period.  SurgeGuard reports low voltage on Line2 (90V).  Line1 was 122V.  Therefore, no coach power.  Since I'm at storage I couldn't test shore power, but I was at a campground with 50A shore power last weekend and the microwave wasn't powered, so at this point I'm thinking it's not both a shore power and generator issue, though it's possible.  Should have at least glanced at the SurgeGuard display while I was at the campground. I thought I'd take a look at the actual SurgeGuard unit and it's wiring under the drivers bed, but couldn't figure out how the box it's install in is secured under the bed.  I'll have to wait to talk to Kermit again.  He offered that I could take this problem to a shop, but I'm learning too much and having too much fun so far.

More to come as I figure this out, unless there are massive protests.  LOL

269  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 13, 2013, 09:08:46 pm
Holly:  I get it now.....some of ya travel with the ladder up.  Definitely makes sense to bungee it up in that scenario!

Tom/Bob/others:  before I get into how well it's working (50 amp setup), here's the panel schedule info on my 50 amp rig (listed top breaker to bottom breaker obviously)

20A Receptacles
20A Converter
20A Microwave
20A Roof Air
20A Inverter

30A Main disconnect
20A Main disconnect

20A Water Heater

Yep, some obvious questions there which I can't answer yet, because I'm still working through a problem with Kermit.  Turns out after spending some time with all the preliminary 'stuff' you do when you first get an RV I found that the microwave and some of the outlets weren't getting power (either on shore power or generator). If the thermostat worked I probably wouldn't have power to the a/c unit either (new thermostat on its way). Will know more tomorrow, but it appears there is a problem with the transfer switch (some call it a changeover switch it I think). So, the answer to the question about the main breaker is that there are two (30 and 20). I'll have to ask Kermit about why those loads are balanced like they are (I'm no electrician). The answer about how well it works will obviously have to wait, but I will certainly post results.  I have spent a good deal of time now in the converter/breaker box (pulling breakers, tightening connections, measuring voltages, testing fuses, deciphering hand written panel schedule and relabeling, etc). But I figure I now know a helluva lot more about an important part of an important system that will be home to us for some lengthy periods of time, so I am gaining some good experience....and truly enjoying it.

Kermit and Earl both apologized for the oversight of not providing the power cord and are reimbursing, btw.

I am confident these issues are fairly easy fixes and Kermit has been super supportive and proactive.  Even with these issues, we are deeply in love with our new rig and very excited. It is roomy, cozy, comfy, beautiful and nicely appointed. It is amazing how many people have commented on it and want to see it up close.

- Mike

270  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 12, 2013, 02:48:37 am

Our 50 amp cord has four prongs on the service side, but three prongs on the rig (camlock)

Makes sense about ensuring the ladder stays put with a bungie cord or similar, even with the 'locking' joint.  I guess I would have found that out at some point in the future.   Grin

  - Mike
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