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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: April 05, 2016, 09:31:27 am
Welcome to the forum!  At some point down the road we plan to do the full-timing thing, so are always tuned into these discussions.  Holly and John have been an excellent resource!

One thing to remember about the 3100....that back end sticks way out there and you'll need to be extra cognizant of that when pulling into and out of some places like gas stations, driveways, etc.

    - Mike
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Factory Visit and Stabilizer Question on: April 03, 2016, 08:06:41 am
I have a 2014 2552 with Safe-T-Plus and my experience is similar to Ron's and Bruce's....and Tom's comments are correct. 

While my experiences were definitely not 'white knuckle' without the unit installed, it was really nice to have on long trips with long periods of high wind conditions.

As Tom said, you should watch the videos on their website.  They also show what happens during a tire blowout with and without Safe-T-Plus installed.

    - Mike
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Finding out the hard way! on: March 29, 2016, 08:30:46 am
Nope, you aren't the only one, Paul.  I had forgotten to check the Xantrex switch once before putting up the rig for an extended storage period.  Did quite a number on the batteries.  pulling hair out

   - Mike
34  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Looking to purchase an 2006 or a newer 2551 on: March 27, 2016, 08:01:31 am
One other thing to look into would be the equipment included in each RV.  Since these units are highly (and generally) configurable/upgradable, one may have two a/c units and 50 amp service and the other may have one a/c unit and 30 amp service, for example.  Also, Kermit is always putting better equipment in these things every year, so generationally you'll get a better overall unit I would think.

    - Mike
35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electrical Converter Question on: March 23, 2016, 11:50:42 am
We have a 2552 (model year 2014) and it came standard with:

Xantrex PRO 1800 Watt Inverter

and.....

Parallax Power Supply Converter and Panelboard - Model 555 (Input: 130VAC, 975W  Output: 55A, 13.6VDC)

My limited understanding is that the Xantrex inverter does the charging in this setup.  I believe there are limited options available for setting charging parameters on the Xantrex PRO series, but the newer Xantrex Prosine 2 has quite a few user-definable settings for various options and battery types.

If the factory recently told you that the converter they are installing is a Parallax, I would assume that was what they are installing.  thinking
36  Main Forum / Links and Contacts / Re: Product Contacts on: March 18, 2016, 07:52:59 pm
Cherry Hill is a pretty cool place. Not very far from the Metro which brings you RIGHT into the heart of DC. The RV park has a large store, very nice pools, a small but adequate breakfast bar/lunch bar near the pool, some sites with nice outdoor furniture and paver patios, etc.  Probably the most unique thing, in my view, is the on-site 'bus stop' for public transit and Washington DC tour buses.  Very very convenient.  Tickets for tours and such can actually be purchased on site in the store as well.  Very short local drive to some nice stores and restaurants (and an RV repair/store, too)

Of course, when the time comes the locals (hey Holly/John, Tom, etc) will undoubtedly let everyone know how to get into and out of the area without going -through- DC.

   - Mike
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC on new Ford Transit 350 chassis? on: March 18, 2016, 07:25:09 pm
I've been following the trend and the only thing I could find regarding Ford's last official word on the Transit and what they have to say regarding motorhomes is this....

https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2015/11/10/new-ford-transit-based-motorhomes-ready-to-carry-families.html

   - Mike
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Option on: March 13, 2016, 12:27:27 pm
Hi Fred....and welcome!

We have had our 2552 with laminate floors and a 15000 BTU A/C for a few years now.

We have cherry interior and the darker, matching laminate flooring.  We bring our two Pomeranians with us on most trips and have camped in cold, hot, wet, snowy, sandy, muddy conditions.  The floors still look brand new, have performed extremely well and are easy to clean.  Even in the bathroom area which tends to get a bit more water splashed or dripped around. Due to their dark color, however, they do show dust/dirt more readily, but we think this is a good thing (ensures we clean regularly)

We found that the originally mattresses were marginally ok for us and opted to just purchase our own foam toppers. 

Personally, I think the 15000 BTU unit is necessary for us.  We do camp in some of the hotter areas (Nevada, Southern CA, Arizona, New Mexico, Florida, etc) and enjoy getting out of the heat once in a while in our rig.  Even with the additional BTUs over the stock unit it can only cool down the rig to about 20 degrees below the outdoor temp.  So, if it's around 100 degrees outside the best we can do inside is a bit below 80 (with shades drawn, windshield covered, heat source like tv on, 2 adults, two dogs, etc.) Obviously a 13500BTU unit wouldn't be able to that well.  We have found that there are many folks who don't run their A/C unit at all in that type of heat...personal preferences.  The units will draw different amounts of power, so if using a 15000 BTU unit you will be more limited as to what else you can run at the same time.  We upgraded to a 50 amp electrical system in our rig due to this.  We can easily run the a/c and other things like the microwave at the same time.  From what I can tell, the Coleman Mach8 unit that we have may actually run less noisy than the stock 13500 units, especially on low fan speed.

The heat pump vs regular A/C issue is a bit more complicated I think.  Overall, we thought there may be more issues with a heat pump.  In more temperate climates you'll get better heating in a heat pump system vs the electrical heat strips and won't use up propane by running the furnace.  On the other hand, there would be more noise running the heat in a heat pump unit vs the heat strips as the compressor will be running.  The propane furnace is also much noisier than running the A/C heat strips. Running the heat strips doesn't blast out the heat as one might expect. It does heat up the rig, but actually might feel a bit like coolish air if you put your hand up to the grill. Lastly, generally somewhere between 30 and 40 degrees the heat pump won't operate in heat mode due to its inability to draw heat from the surrounding outside air.

We are generally happy with our choice, but because of personal preference and the experiences we've had we might have liked the two HVAC unit option a bit better.  That would allow use of either or both units which would have increased overall heating/cooling capacity and allowed better noise control.  Of course, the 50 amp electrical system would also be needed here.

Hope this helps a bit.

   - Mike
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Problems with auxiliary 12 volt plug in on: March 10, 2016, 09:25:10 pm
I don't know about other areas of the country, but around here our Ford dealers (Fairfield, Richmond, Walnut Creek, California) will help with anything we throw at them....and we have.  The parts departments know one heck of a lot and aren't shy about sharing.

    - Mike
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Problems with auxiliary 12 volt plug in on: March 10, 2016, 12:15:12 pm
Your owners manual should list which fuse and it is and what type of fuse.

In my 2014 PC (which is built on a 2013 Ford E450) the fuse box is is under the dash by the floor between the drivers side door and brake pedal.  The fuse for my aux outlet is a 20 amp (type A1S) and is in slot #72.

   - Mike
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A few questions before I do a factory tour on: March 06, 2016, 08:59:15 pm
 ThumbsUp

Yep!  What Barry said!

   Wink
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A few questions before I do a factory tour on: March 06, 2016, 09:20:24 am
Bob:


I know there was a thread or two here on the forum discussing connection to a portable satellite dish.  Not sure if there was an easy solution, but you may want to search.

If my memory is correct (unlikely) one can't simply hook the dish to the outdoor cable connection due to that cable running through the over-the-air antenna amplifier inside the rig.  This thread on another forum seems to address the issue and provides a solution.  It may or may not work in your situation. 

https://www.heartlandowners.org/archive/index.php/t-30234.html

Another option would be to install a connector yourself on the outside of the rig and run a coax into the rig similar to how the Ford cab radio antenna is mounted and run to the radio.  I believe there are rubber hole covers or metal knockouts in the firewall/floorboard area for bringing cable into the cab area.

Alternatively, if you don't already use one.....there are flat sections of coax available that are designed specifically for running through windows and allows the window to close a bit more.

If it were me, and I used the satellite often, I'd probably bring the rig to a reputable car stereo installer and have them install an exterior connector and run the coax to where you have your receiver located near the TV.  Shouldn't cost very much or take very long.  Once and done.

    - Mike
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Just introducing myself on: March 05, 2016, 09:54:45 am
Welcome, Byron!

We love our 2014 2552, but if we decide at some point to trade in for a new one we would make these changes:
- Add either side cameras or replace single rear camera with dual rear camera to provide full time views of both the towed vehicle and traffic behind and to the side.
- Replace the particle board bed decking with smooth wood to eliminate splinters and mess.
- Replace stock batteries with AGM maintenance free batteries
- Install matching wood shelving in both cabinets at the foot of both beds (we don't need to hang clothes/coats there and having nice factory built shelving would be better than my non-carpenter attempts)
- Install water line from water tank to passenger side of rig (allows for easy outdoor water access on that side of the rig, plus allows for more control over where the water will go when draining the tank)

We are very glad we had these items installed:
- Upgraded A/C system (15000 BTU)
- Propane line and valve run to the passenger side outdoor storage box.
- Upgraded electrical (50 amp)
- Hard wired Surge Guard
- Wood floors (very easy maintenance, very attractive and very durable)

Only one outstanding issue:
- We have the insulated windows but wish (somehow) there was better insulation in the coach door area and cab area.

It is such a nice RV.  Comfortable and easy to drive, even while towing a 4700 lb SUV. Can't beat the customer service.

Hope you join the community!

   - Mike
44  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: First Aid Kit on: March 04, 2016, 08:11:46 am
 " try not to glue your fingers to the patient; "

 LOL  May want to include super glue remover to the kit!

Glad to hear it wasn't more serious!  Owie!

     - Mike
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak in Sani-Con hose on: March 04, 2016, 06:45:58 am
I just checked ours and it looks like your second picture; room to expand and contract. 

That section of hose does look more and more like a potential problem.  It would seem that a piece of more ridged and durable hose would be better between the pump and storage compartment. 

   - Mike
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