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1  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 29, 2015, 05:22:08 pm
Thanks Ron!  Mark
2  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Converting From Two 12V Batteries To Two 6V Batteries on: April 29, 2015, 05:20:26 pm
Ron, I think I read somewhere that agm batteries take a little higher charging voltage.?.?  My onboard charger charges at about 13.8v per my inverter display and my alternator puts out about 13.7/13.8v per my scangauge.  If you haven't already done so, you may want to verify you are giving your new set the voltage they need for long life.  Mark
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Filling the fresh water tank. on: April 24, 2015, 10:55:24 am
OK, all you all who are filling their fresh water tank from the driver's side, where is the valve that switches from fill to city water?  My 2013 2552 only has a fill on the passenger side unless the valve is well hidden.  Thanks, Mark
4  Main Forum / Photos / Ann's Beautiful PC on: April 12, 2015, 10:40:51 pm
I pulled up to a friend's RV after an agility trial and realized that I had parked by a PC.  It turns out that it is owned by Ann here on the forum.  She was in Pensacola for our trial and she showed me her customized PC.  I'm still trying to figure out how her rig seems to be the same size as mine on the inside yet is quite a bit shorter.  The color scheme is extremely attractive as is the whole unit.  Mark




5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak In Overheads on: March 09, 2015, 03:02:47 pm
Did you get this problem resolved?
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Safe for valuables on: March 09, 2015, 02:59:14 pm
I recommend this:

The sentry type safes you see at the big box stores will only stop a snatch and go thief (assuming it is bolted down).  They are easily defeated.   I had one where the lock wouldn't unlock and it took me about 2 minutes to break in with a big screwdriver and I was trying not to damage it!  Fort Knox is perhaps the best name in consumer safes.
7  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Mouse Repellent on: March 06, 2015, 11:59:12 am
Somehow a rat got into our garage 2 weeks ago and one night decided to munch on the insulation and wiring harnesses in our Ford Explorer.  The next morning the car started, but would barely run.  I limped it into the Ford dealership thinking a harness had somehow come unplugged.  They called later that day and told me a rodent chewed through 6 harnesses and 2 fuel injector wirings.  The damage was $700.  The tech said this was not at all uncommon.  Apparently the wire insulation is tasty to mice/rats.  Protect your PC! 
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 25, 2015, 01:43:31 pm
I bought my unit used (one year old) and the warranty does not transfer.  PC offered to fix it but they didn't offer to pay a third party to fix it.  Mark
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Wheel cover installation problem on: January 20, 2015, 10:12:31 am
It's easy.  Put your first hand at 12:00, your second hand at 6:00, your third hand at 3:00, your right knee at 9:00 then go get the mallet out of the garage, repeat the first steps, and tap it in using your 4th hand!  These are always a challenge to put on and the reason you see so many in the highway ditches across the US.
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 20, 2015, 10:07:49 am
OK, with help from Kermit and Bob, I was able to fix the leak.  The drain from the kitchen and bathroom sink follow the contour of the shower pan lip that you step over to get in the shower.  The first 45 degree after leaving the sink (this would be the 45 degree angle just to your left as you step into the shower) had a severe crack on the inside.  It cracked because it was under stress because the 'real' angle of the joint was closer to 55 degrees due to the installer not using the right lengths of straight pipe.  Over time, it developed a stress fracture.

I replaced the elbow with a length of 45 degree angle radiator hose and double clamped it on both ends.  Hopefully this will be a permanent solution.  It works for marine installations.

This is a big job.  The pan had to be lifted to get to the leaking joint.  This required complete disassembly of the shower. The glass had to be removed, the walls between the glass and exterior had to be removed, the trim around the pan had to be removed, the pan had to be loosened all around, and the trim around the interior shower walls had to be removed so you could lift the pan up to get to the leak.  Once I found the leak, I had to cut it out and that wasn't easy either.

We discussed cutting a hole in the shower pan to gain access, but that wouldn't have worked because the pan had to be lifted to have enough working room.

I'm about done, I have to get my nail gun and nail back the trim on the interior and then re-caulk the shower.  Whew!   There are some tricks to getting the walls off.  If anyone has this happen to them, get in touch with me.  The factory said this is the first time they had a leak reported here.  They have repaired broken shower pans.  Mark
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 12, 2015, 08:31:16 pm
I talked to Kermit today.  He said this is not a repair for the faint of heart and twice said I needed to bring the rv back to the factory for repair.   That's not going to happen.  I basically have to lift up the shower so I can find the problem and hopefully have enough room to fix it.  I need to disassemble the glass shower walls and remove trim at the base of the shower walls.  Once that is out I need to unscrew the shower pan from the exterior walls.  That should free up the pan except from its drain and sealant.  Then I must try to pry up the shower pan so I can peek underneath to find the leak.  The drain leaves the sink and follows the exterior of the shower pan with 45 degree angles turns and finally drops into the holding tank between the shower pan and the linen closet.  The shower drains elsewhere so it is not the problem.  If I can't get the pan up high enough to see, I may need to remove the drain from the shower pan.  He didn't think removing the vanity was a good idea as it is hard to remove and wouldn't allow much access once I got it out so I'll do it the easy way by taking out the shower! I will start on this project later this week.

After talking to Kermit, I'm pretty sure one of the 45 degree joints under the shower pan has parted just based on the drain pipe layout and where the water is leaking.  I'm really not looking forward to this job, but until it's fixed the kitchen sink and vanity can't be used.   
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 12, 2015, 09:42:22 am
Thanks for the pic, Bob.  A picture is worth a thousand words.  The leak is somewhere under the lip of the shower pan.  I wonder where the shower drain attaches or if it even uses this drain pipe?  I hope I can get to it with just the vanity removed.  I'm hoping that the shower pan lip is removable for access or the whole shower will need to be disassembled and the pan pulled out.  What a job that will be.  The vanity disassembly is going very slow.  The guy who put it in went a little crazy with the screw gun and crushed/split most of the wood as he drove the screws in way too deep.  It make it tough getting them out.  Plus, as you can see in the picture, part of it was installed when access was easy.  I have a call into Kermit and hopefully he will have an easy solution.  This plumbing was not designed to ever need fixing!  Mark
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 11, 2015, 09:25:45 pm
OK, after we got home, I pulled the panel off the shower that holds the controls.  It's in the corner.  I found the hot and cold water runs coming from the bathroom sink.  They continue on around the corner and apparently go to the outside shower.  I also found about 20' of camera wire coiled up and the penetration where it goes out the wall.  There was also a bundle of wires running along the wall.   You can see that the shower pan sits on styrofoam.  The area was wet and I blotted up as much as I could, hooked the shower hot/cold water controls back up and turned on the pump.  I waited 10 minutes and the pump never ran after pressurizing the system and I found no leaks.  I ran some water through the sink and water almost immediately started seeping out b/w the vanity and shower.  i have a drain leak. 

I traced the drain system and the drain drops to the floor makes a right angle turn towards the shower and then makes another turn back towards the engine.  No leaks to this point and after the turn back towards the front of the vehicle you can't see/access the drain pipe.  Somewhere under there the drain from the shower links in and then it drops to the holding tank. 

I hope I can remove the vanity and get to the drain without removing the whole shower/shower pan.  I started removing the vanity.  Interestingly it is built around the plumbing.  In other words, it doesn't just slide in.  To remove the vanity, you must remove the panel behind the toilet, remove the permanent shelf in the vanity and I'm not sure yet, but probably remove the vanity top too.  To get the vanity shelf out, you would have to cut the drain plumbing.  Why would you design a bathroom where you put the vanity in, drop in the vanity shelf, screw it in, add the bathroom sink vent, glue it in, glue in the trap, and then add the vanity top?  It's not a clean install and I can't get to the drain pipe once the vanity is removed, I'll have to disassemble the shower and remove the shower pan!

I'll call the factory tomorrow and see if there is a better way.  Either the drain pipe wasn't glued correctly and parted at a joint or the pipe suffered a stress fracture.  It's probably the former with the amount of water leaking.
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 11, 2015, 11:17:58 am
We are on the road this weekend and I'm hooked up to power only.  Last night we noticed water oozing out from under the vanity in the bathroom.  All we have used the bathroom for this weekend is the sink and the toilet.  I put a towel down and we didn't use the sink last night.  This morning  I investigated more thoroughly.  The water is coming from under the shower pan/vanity area, I think from under the shower pan.  All the drain pipes under the bathroom vanity are dry as are the supply lines.  We used the water pump and kitchen sink to wash dishes this morning and there is now more water pooling in the bathroom leading me to believe i have a leak on the supply side that manifests when the pump is turned on.  The supply lines to the bathroom sink are dry.  In my 2552 the supply lines appear to run along the back wall from the closet to the sink and then on to the shower.  My guess is that there is a leak where the supply line makes a right angle turn to go up to the shower knobs or at the knobs themselves.  Has anyone ever pulled the corner of their shower out?  Any other suggestions for finding the source of the leak?  Thanks, Mark
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Why PC instead of similar priced Class A on: October 31, 2014, 04:09:30 pm
For 2 adults and 2 kids, I too would be looking very closely at the Allegro.  I am size compromised.  I need a unit that will fit under my 10' garage door and the PC fits that bill very nicely.  The bunkhouse Allegro has a lot more room and a whole lot more storage at the same cost and not much difference in mpg.  I have a friend who has the bunkhouse model and is considering a trade.  If you like, I will put you in touch with her.  It is the FRED model.
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