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31  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Awning Leak on: May 29, 2014, 11:17:07 am
There was no sealant on the awning wiring penetration on our 2552 either and I found some damp underlayment by the passenger seat.  I don't know if the awning mounting gear is the cause, but it seems to be the most likely suspect.  I dabbed sealant around the exposed wire penetration as it looks like any water falling down the awning mount channel would ride the wire into the coach.  Your fix looks much more professional. 

Based on the comments of another owner, I also dropped the bottom wedge out and found the 3 sheet metal screws holding it in place are not weather sealed either.  I put sealant on these screws too.  You can reach the bottom screws as the wedge is hollow.  I dabbed some sealant on the stern side wedge of the awning too figuring if water is getting in the bow side, it's probably getting in the stern side as well.  Mark
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Entry Door Weather Stripping on: May 27, 2014, 07:55:37 am
On our 2013 2552, we have 4 strips.  On the opening side, the corners are mitered and cut square on the hinge side.
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Roof air not working on: May 27, 2014, 07:53:52 am
After you try that experiment, hook up to 30 amp shore power and repeat.  And it's going to take several hours to bring dead coach batteries back unless you have a very high capacity charger.
34  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Maiden Voyage on: May 16, 2014, 08:35:26 pm
Great pictures!
35  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Keeping those flying pest out on: May 16, 2014, 07:42:26 pm
What about the water heater and refrigerator vents?  Did you cover them too?
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ultra Breeze vent cover installation on: April 14, 2014, 08:39:18 am

Does one mounted center on a PC roof sit taller than the Dometic a/c unit?  If it does, it wouldn't work for me because our garage door is just tall enough for the a/c unit to clear by an inch when our rig is empty and low on fuel.

Our 2552 came with a vent cover on the back fan.  I don't know if it is the brand mentioned.  I think it came as part of the fantastic fan unit.  It sits several inches higher than the a/c unit.  I had to remove it (e z, 4 push pins hold it on) to fit through our 10' door opening.  Mark
37  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: leak at awning on: January 01, 2014, 07:48:50 pm
Hmmm.  The guy who owned my 2552 before me reported a one time occurrence of water pooling in the same place.  I haven't noticed it yet but we haven't been out in a lot of rain yet.  I'm interested to see what you find out.  I did find wet under flooring in front of the passenger seat when I insulated the floor and I'm not sure where the water came from.
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Starting the genset on: December 26, 2013, 09:14:17 am
Every time I start the generator, it takes at least 3 to 5 attempts of 10 second cranks before it starts.  My procedure is to prime until the light goes out, hit the starter for 10 seconds, wait, prime until the light goes out and repeat.  Is it normal to need this much cranking?  Once it starts, everything is fine.
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Removing door panels on: December 26, 2013, 09:10:16 am
This works on a 2013 model:  Pop off the cover at the front of the door (very carefully) with a pry bar of some sorts.  I used a screwdriver.  Pry from the top as there is a clip near the top.  The cover is held on by 2 tabs in slots at the top of the panel and the clip above them.  Remove the now visible screw holding the door panel on. Next, remove the small plastic cover in the door handle and remove the screw that holds the larger plastic cover for the door handle.  There is a screw just above the door handle.  You may need a flashlight to see it.  Remove it. Finally, pry out the round tab at the bottom of the door on the aft side and remove the screw under it.  Now the door panel will lift straight up unimpeded.  You may want to pop the window/door lock panel up before removing the door panel otherwise you will need to rest the panel somehow while you disconnect the wiring.  Don't pull out, just pull up.  If it doesn't come freely, you missed a screw.  Mark
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Doghouse insulation project (summary) on: December 24, 2013, 07:23:21 pm
Until I had the doghouse out of the vehicle, I didn't realize just how close we sit to a V10 engine that spins at 2600 rpms at 64 mph!  It's right there by our knees!

I now have 27 sq ft of Deamplier material on the floor from the firewall to the back of the chairs, in the passenger door and all in the doghouse.  It is time for a test drive.  I got on the interstate where there is smooth asphalt and got to cruising speed of 62 mph.  There is a noticeable difference in engine noise.  I didn't have a passenger so I couldn't test if conversing was improved.  However, my dB meter is now averaging 54.5 dB, an improvement of about 3 dB.  But what does that mean?  Well, if you remember, a 10 dB difference is perceived as a doubling of the heard noise, so in very layman's terms, the noise has been reduced by about 1/3 if my calculations and understanding of noise is correct.  I called darling wife on my cell phone at 65 mph and I was able to carry on a conversation with her without straining my hearing.  I couldn't do that before. 

Noise from the doghouse is greatly reduced.  However, I still hear a lot of engine noise and it sounds like it mostly coming through the dashboard, dash area, and hood.  I also hear a lot of wind noise around the driver's mirror.  I think I will order the JC Whitney hood insulation kit (Hushmat) and add material to the driver's door.  I also might try to find a mat I can lay on the dash.  I've seen some custom mats for the dash that are made to protect the dash from sun damage.  Maybe something like this could help.

All in all, I'm very happy with the improvement in noise abatement, but I'd like to knock another 2 or 3 dB off and make the PC as quiet as my truck.  To date, I have about $170 invested and 8 hours of time.  I could have saved $12 by not buying the adhesive I didn't need (I thought I would need it to glue the existing doghouse insulation back in).  I'll be glad to answer any questions.  Mark
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Doghouse insulation project (post 2) on: December 24, 2013, 06:54:51 pm
I pulled the doghouse out of the PC and placed it on the work table.  There is a hard insulating pad of fiberglass and foil that is friction fitted to the back of the doghouse.   It comes out by gently pulling and working it around the rubber gasket.  Here is the doghouse with the insulation pad removed:


Here is the insulation pad:


Be careful removing the doghouse because I broke the carbon fiber looking plastic piece that has the cup holders in it.  It apparently drops in with retaining tabs and is then glued down.  The glue didn't hold and I broke the tabs off.  There is also a another plastic piece that attaches to the doghouse that is held on by a clip at the base.

I cut the Damplifer material into strips with a razor knife and pressed it to the inside of the doghouse and used the roller to get good contact.  I doubt this material will ever fall off by itself.  The sticky side is really sticky.  I also put some material on the other side of the doghouse where it would be covered by the vertical piece that holds my sunglasses and tissues.  I thought about putting 2 layers on the inside, but decided I'd have enough material to do the cab floor if I just put on one layer.  Here is what it looks like:


The doghouse is nothing but curves so it took a while to cut strips to fit but I finally got 100% of the doghouse interior covered.

Next I removed the passenger chair and pulled away the vinyl flooring.  It has a jute like material under it that is about 1/2" thick.  It was wet under the passenger side.  Hmmm.  Under the vinyl flooring was the metal floor.  I covered about 90% of this area with Deamplifer from the firewall to the carpet behind the chairs.




I had some material left over so I decided to tackle the passenger door.  There are 3 screws that hold the door on and once removed, the panel simply lifts up.  I tried to cover 25% of the exterior skin but it's hard to reach due to poor access.  I also put some rectangular pieces on the interior skin as it sounded very 'tinny' when tapped.  At this point, I was running low on material and I put the door back together.  I had heard that applying material to the door will make it clunk when closed instead of clanking.  Maybe I didn't use enough.  My door still clanked.  Oh well.  I didn't have enough materials for the driver's door.  I may tackle it later.


I wanted something to act as a sound barrier so I went to HD and Lowes and looked around for some underlayment sound dampener.  All I found was some 1/8" underlayment for wood flooring.  100 sq ft was $65.  Too pricey and too thin.  I looked around some more and found some closed cell pads for cushioning your feet that snap together.  These were 10mm thick and about $20.  I went with this and put it on top of the Deamplier and then laid the vinyl flooring on top.  10mm is pretty thick and it caused some issues getting a nice fit under the vinyl and getting the bolts back in that hold the seats down.  Once I had everything covered back up, I put the insulation pad back in the doghouse and put the doghouse back in place.  Remember I said 10mm is pretty thick?  The floor was now 10mm higher and I had to fit the doghouse back in pushing with my feet.  It is now a very, very tight fit.

By now, I was over this project.  All the above took about 8 hrs to complete.  The next post summaries the results of my labor.

42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Doghouse insulation project (background post 1) on: December 24, 2013, 05:22:18 pm
I have significant high frequency hearing loss on my left side and some on my right side.  I can hear just fine in my office but in a noisy restaurant I miss a lot of conversation.  I can hear noise, I just can't distinguish sound.  Understanding women in a noisy environment is really tough.  I can use my cell phone just fine with my right ear in my office and in my F150.  However, I was having difficulty using my cell phone in my 2552 while cruising down the road at 60 to 65 mph. 

I bought an app for my iPhone that uses the microphone as a sound measuring device and did some comparative measuring.  It shows my office as having a noise level of 47-48 dB which is the sound of my computer fan and some very light traffic outside.  My F150 at 70 mph has a sound level of 53-54 dB.  I can use my cell phone or hands free and/or carry on a conversion with a passenger with no difficulty.  In the 2552, I have to raise my voice slightly and my wife has to raise her voice slightly to carry on a conversation.    The meter reads 57-58 dB and peaks at about 60 dB.  Perceived noise is doubled every 10 dB.  So very relatively speaking, my RV is about twice as noisy as my office. and 57-58 dB is about where I have to strain to hear and I must talk a little louder than is comfortable.

With these readings as reference points, I decided to insulate the doghouse.  My goal is to quiet the PC to a level where I can converse in a normal tone and use my cell phone.  I searched online for products and spent a good deal of time reading car audio forums.  It seems everybody has a favorite product but no one has any concrete data as to who has the best product.  I did learn that there are 2 avenues of attack:  Vibration and noise.  Audiophiles prefer to tackle vibration first and noise second.  Vibration is handled by dampening the vibration to a level below our hearing threshold and is accomplish by sticking a dampener to the metal/fiberglass/plastic skin of the vehicle.  The coating needs to cover a min 25% of the surface area to be most effective and more is better.  Think about a percussionist's symbol.  If you strike the symbol it vibrates and makes a lot of noise, but if you put a wet sponge on it that only covers 1/10 of the surface area and strike it again, there is hardly any noise.  That is how the vibration dampeners work. 

Noise is handled by using a barrier between the noise and you.  Lead seems to be the best product, but it is heavy, toxic, and somewhat difficult to work with.  Sound recording studios use foam boards and you can find many closed cell foam materials to put over the vibration dampener.  The issues in a vehicle are getting it to stick to walls and ceilings, the thickness causing fitting issues and compression making it thinner.  The barrier simply prevents noise from penetrating.  That is how sound deadeners work.

I flipped a coin and went with a product called Second Skin Damplifer Pro.  It's a constraint level vibration dampener (CLD).  It's a butyl material with a sticky side and an AL foil side.  The sticky allows you to stick it where it won't fall off, the butyl layer stops vibration and the foil acts as a sound barrier.  At least that is my understanding to very complex subject.  I bought 26 sq ft of the product, a roller to press it down and a can of spay adhesive for about $150 delivered.  It was 40% off on black Friday.  I didn't use the adhesive and could have saved about $12.  The roller was about $12 too.

Next I'll go into some detail of applying the product and the results.

43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fired up the furnace for the first time on: December 24, 2013, 04:32:11 pm
OK, I found the answer a few posts below.
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Fired up the furnace for the first time on: December 24, 2013, 04:28:16 pm
and the a/c fan runs on high continuously.  I have the standard dometric 13.5 unit.  The furnace will cycle on and off but the a/c unit fan just keeps blowing air.  Is this the way it is supposed to be?  Also, I don't have the heat strip but when I cycle the thermostat to heat strip I get some warm air out of the a/c unit.  Is this normal?  Thanks, Mark
45  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: SCAN GAUGE II Mounting in your RV on: December 22, 2013, 08:07:50 pm
I have an older SGII and I'm not sure if it is programmed the same way as the new ones.  Anyway, I left my SG plugged in and didn't run my PC for a month.  When I tried to start it up, the battery was stone cold dead.  I blame it on the SG as that is the only accessory I had plugged in.  I had this happen on my truck when the SG was plugged into to it and I didn't run it for a couple of weeks.  I recommend you unplug it when you won't be using your PC for a while.  Mark
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