Show Posts
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 7
31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Bumper on: June 05, 2014, 08:54:28 am
Beautiful.  Nice work.
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Awning leak revisited on: June 05, 2014, 08:52:59 am
I used a clear adhesive sealant.  I think it is made by liquid nails.
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Awning leak revisited on: June 04, 2014, 10:28:59 pm
I sealed the hole for the awning wiring and the 3 lower screw holes that hold in the wedge and thought I was good to go.  We traveled to Biloxi last weekend and camped in a major rain.  The next morning there was a puddle to the left of the door (when exiting).  Once home, I resealed the awning power wiring hole and tested.  A puddle formed again with water coming out from under the vertical carpet panel and from under the cabinet. 

I took off the carpeted section between the passenger chair and door and dried out everything.  Once dry, I put my wife in the rv with a flashlight and I started spraying water at the base of the awning channel and worked my way up.  On the third set of screws, I hit pay dirt.  Copious amounts of water came in the rv.  This set of screws, the ones above the wedge, were the only ones I hadn't previously sealed.  I resealed all the screws and noted that at the top of the rv where the rain gutter is supposed to guide the water off the rv, it actually channels the water through the awning channel so almost all the water coming off the roof flowed down the awning channel.  This causes about a hundred times more water to flow over the leaky screws.  With a little sealant, I was able to re-channel the water away from the channel and off the side of the rv.

None of the awning screws had been sealed so I pulled the screws from other side of the awning.  None of the screws were sealed on this side either.  If one side was leaking, I'm sure the other side was leaking too so I sealed those screws.  I worked my way around the rv and sealed the awning over the side out on the other side (no sealant here either) and also the ladder on the back of the rv (no sealant here). 

I recommend everyone examine their rv and put sealant on any screws that haven't been sealed.  I've owned boats in the past and we always sealed any screws that were subject to water spray, I am surprised the rv industry doesn't do the same.  The water comes in and eventually finds the floor and over time the wet floor rots.  Mark
34  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Storage on: June 04, 2014, 09:26:26 pm
I did the same thing as Racephoto, but went with a bigger platform (24x60 [pro series]) with the big bag (24x60x24 [etrailer]).  This worked great for chairs, an x pen for the dogs, dog crates, a grooming table, outdoor rug, firewood, etc.  It worked good until it rained and the rain found a way in through the folds which defeated the whole purpose of the bag.  So I build a 55"x 24"x 20" plywood box cut low (16")against the rv so I can access the rv storage.  The bag fits around the box, is rigid, and life is good.  I estimate the storage weighs about 60-70# empty.  Mark
35  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Awning Leak on: May 29, 2014, 11:17:07 am
There was no sealant on the awning wiring penetration on our 2552 either and I found some damp underlayment by the passenger seat.  I don't know if the awning mounting gear is the cause, but it seems to be the most likely suspect.  I dabbed sealant around the exposed wire penetration as it looks like any water falling down the awning mount channel would ride the wire into the coach.  Your fix looks much more professional. 

Based on the comments of another owner, I also dropped the bottom wedge out and found the 3 sheet metal screws holding it in place are not weather sealed either.  I put sealant on these screws too.  You can reach the bottom screws as the wedge is hollow.  I dabbed some sealant on the stern side wedge of the awning too figuring if water is getting in the bow side, it's probably getting in the stern side as well.  Mark
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Entry Door Weather Stripping on: May 27, 2014, 07:55:37 am
On our 2013 2552, we have 4 strips.  On the opening side, the corners are mitered and cut square on the hinge side.
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Roof air not working on: May 27, 2014, 07:53:52 am
After you try that experiment, hook up to 30 amp shore power and repeat.  And it's going to take several hours to bring dead coach batteries back unless you have a very high capacity charger.
38  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Maiden Voyage on: May 16, 2014, 08:35:26 pm
Great pictures!
39  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Keeping those flying pest out on: May 16, 2014, 07:42:26 pm
What about the water heater and refrigerator vents?  Did you cover them too?
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ultra Breeze vent cover installation on: April 14, 2014, 08:39:18 am

Does one mounted center on a PC roof sit taller than the Dometic a/c unit?  If it does, it wouldn't work for me because our garage door is just tall enough for the a/c unit to clear by an inch when our rig is empty and low on fuel.

Our 2552 came with a vent cover on the back fan.  I don't know if it is the brand mentioned.  I think it came as part of the fantastic fan unit.  It sits several inches higher than the a/c unit.  I had to remove it (e z, 4 push pins hold it on) to fit through our 10' door opening.  Mark
41  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: leak at awning on: January 01, 2014, 07:48:50 pm
Hmmm.  The guy who owned my 2552 before me reported a one time occurrence of water pooling in the same place.  I haven't noticed it yet but we haven't been out in a lot of rain yet.  I'm interested to see what you find out.  I did find wet under flooring in front of the passenger seat when I insulated the floor and I'm not sure where the water came from.
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Starting the genset on: December 26, 2013, 09:14:17 am
Every time I start the generator, it takes at least 3 to 5 attempts of 10 second cranks before it starts.  My procedure is to prime until the light goes out, hit the starter for 10 seconds, wait, prime until the light goes out and repeat.  Is it normal to need this much cranking?  Once it starts, everything is fine.
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Removing door panels on: December 26, 2013, 09:10:16 am
This works on a 2013 model:  Pop off the cover at the front of the door (very carefully) with a pry bar of some sorts.  I used a screwdriver.  Pry from the top as there is a clip near the top.  The cover is held on by 2 tabs in slots at the top of the panel and the clip above them.  Remove the now visible screw holding the door panel on. Next, remove the small plastic cover in the door handle and remove the screw that holds the larger plastic cover for the door handle.  There is a screw just above the door handle.  You may need a flashlight to see it.  Remove it. Finally, pry out the round tab at the bottom of the door on the aft side and remove the screw under it.  Now the door panel will lift straight up unimpeded.  You may want to pop the window/door lock panel up before removing the door panel otherwise you will need to rest the panel somehow while you disconnect the wiring.  Don't pull out, just pull up.  If it doesn't come freely, you missed a screw.  Mark
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Doghouse insulation project (summary) on: December 24, 2013, 07:23:21 pm
Until I had the doghouse out of the vehicle, I didn't realize just how close we sit to a V10 engine that spins at 2600 rpms at 64 mph!  It's right there by our knees!

I now have 27 sq ft of Deamplier material on the floor from the firewall to the back of the chairs, in the passenger door and all in the doghouse.  It is time for a test drive.  I got on the interstate where there is smooth asphalt and got to cruising speed of 62 mph.  There is a noticeable difference in engine noise.  I didn't have a passenger so I couldn't test if conversing was improved.  However, my dB meter is now averaging 54.5 dB, an improvement of about 3 dB.  But what does that mean?  Well, if you remember, a 10 dB difference is perceived as a doubling of the heard noise, so in very layman's terms, the noise has been reduced by about 1/3 if my calculations and understanding of noise is correct.  I called darling wife on my cell phone at 65 mph and I was able to carry on a conversation with her without straining my hearing.  I couldn't do that before. 

Noise from the doghouse is greatly reduced.  However, I still hear a lot of engine noise and it sounds like it mostly coming through the dashboard, dash area, and hood.  I also hear a lot of wind noise around the driver's mirror.  I think I will order the JC Whitney hood insulation kit (Hushmat) and add material to the driver's door.  I also might try to find a mat I can lay on the dash.  I've seen some custom mats for the dash that are made to protect the dash from sun damage.  Maybe something like this could help.

All in all, I'm very happy with the improvement in noise abatement, but I'd like to knock another 2 or 3 dB off and make the PC as quiet as my truck.  To date, I have about $170 invested and 8 hours of time.  I could have saved $12 by not buying the adhesive I didn't need (I thought I would need it to glue the existing doghouse insulation back in).  I'll be glad to answer any questions.  Mark
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Doghouse insulation project (post 2) on: December 24, 2013, 06:54:51 pm
I pulled the doghouse out of the PC and placed it on the work table.  There is a hard insulating pad of fiberglass and foil that is friction fitted to the back of the doghouse.   It comes out by gently pulling and working it around the rubber gasket.  Here is the doghouse with the insulation pad removed:


Here is the insulation pad:


Be careful removing the doghouse because I broke the carbon fiber looking plastic piece that has the cup holders in it.  It apparently drops in with retaining tabs and is then glued down.  The glue didn't hold and I broke the tabs off.  There is also a another plastic piece that attaches to the doghouse that is held on by a clip at the base.

I cut the Damplifer material into strips with a razor knife and pressed it to the inside of the doghouse and used the roller to get good contact.  I doubt this material will ever fall off by itself.  The sticky side is really sticky.  I also put some material on the other side of the doghouse where it would be covered by the vertical piece that holds my sunglasses and tissues.  I thought about putting 2 layers on the inside, but decided I'd have enough material to do the cab floor if I just put on one layer.  Here is what it looks like:


The doghouse is nothing but curves so it took a while to cut strips to fit but I finally got 100% of the doghouse interior covered.

Next I removed the passenger chair and pulled away the vinyl flooring.  It has a jute like material under it that is about 1/2" thick.  It was wet under the passenger side.  Hmmm.  Under the vinyl flooring was the metal floor.  I covered about 90% of this area with Deamplifer from the firewall to the carpet behind the chairs.




I had some material left over so I decided to tackle the passenger door.  There are 3 screws that hold the door on and once removed, the panel simply lifts up.  I tried to cover 25% of the exterior skin but it's hard to reach due to poor access.  I also put some rectangular pieces on the interior skin as it sounded very 'tinny' when tapped.  At this point, I was running low on material and I put the door back together.  I had heard that applying material to the door will make it clunk when closed instead of clanking.  Maybe I didn't use enough.  My door still clanked.  Oh well.  I didn't have enough materials for the driver's door.  I may tackle it later.


I wanted something to act as a sound barrier so I went to HD and Lowes and looked around for some underlayment sound dampener.  All I found was some 1/8" underlayment for wood flooring.  100 sq ft was $65.  Too pricey and too thin.  I looked around some more and found some closed cell pads for cushioning your feet that snap together.  These were 10mm thick and about $20.  I went with this and put it on top of the Deamplier and then laid the vinyl flooring on top.  10mm is pretty thick and it caused some issues getting a nice fit under the vinyl and getting the bolts back in that hold the seats down.  Once I had everything covered back up, I put the insulation pad back in the doghouse and put the doghouse back in place.  Remember I said 10mm is pretty thick?  The floor was now 10mm higher and I had to fit the doghouse back in pushing with my feet.  It is now a very, very tight fit.

By now, I was over this project.  All the above took about 8 hrs to complete.  The next post summaries the results of my labor.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 7