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46  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Removing door panels on: December 22, 2013, 04:34:55 pm
Tom, thanks for the help.  There are 3 screws that hold the door panel on and once I found the third screw (just above the door handle), the door panel lifts off easily.  It doesn't 'snap' into place, it just hangs from the door and rests on the clips. I did lose the metal clip on plastic piece that covers what used to be the vent window in days of yore and I to improvise when replacing it.  It's always something .  Mark
47  Main Forum / General Discussion / Removing door panels on: December 21, 2013, 09:33:48 am
Does anyone know how to remove the door panels?  I've started my sound deadening project and need to get to the inside.
48  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Aime's Matchmaking Service on: December 18, 2013, 02:13:08 pm
You can put us on the list:  skipperbrown, pensacola fl, 2013 2552
49  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: MICHELIN TIRE RECALL on: December 18, 2013, 02:11:21 pm
Our 2013 also has OO9X all around.
50  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Time for a new computer but what? on: November 18, 2013, 08:28:55 am
For travel, you will need a laptop computer.  For serious photography, you will need to get a top of the line computer.

I do a lot of photography, shoot in raw and edit in aperture and/or lightroom.  I use photoshop rarely.  I have a 2010 macbook pro w/ 8 gigs ram and it got so slow I had to find another option.  I upgraded to a SSD and it's like having a new computer.  If you are going to be editing large photos, you are going to at least need a MBP w/ 8 gigs and a fast HD or its windows equivalent.  Apple is very proud of their products and the price tags reflect the pride.  The downside to using a laptop for photography is calibrating the screen.  If you tilt it a 1/4" everything changes.  My thoughts anyway . Mark
51  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drive line vibration diagnosis on: November 15, 2013, 02:25:06 pm
Holly & John, Panhandle Driveline owned/operated by William.  He answers the phone unless he's working on a job.   His shop is fairly new and I don't think he is very busy right now.  Since you are coming from out of town, you should talk to him for scheduling to get in and out asap. The shop located in Milton, FL about 3 miles north of I10 inside a mini storage unit.  He is set up for cars/pickups and doesn't have a way to lift RV's so he will either have to work under your PC or send it 'up the road' to an automotive shop to have the driveline dropped.  He chose to crawl under mine and do it himself.   I would guess that he will want to tweak the angles so he will likely want to remove/install the driveline himself.

There is not much going on in Milton, but if you are here, you should consider a day or two at either Ft. Pickens national seashore campground or further east towards Grayton Beach in Santa Rosa.  I have never stayed at either so I can't comment on the campgrounds themselves, but we used to boat to Ft. Pickens frequently.  Pickens has been a fort since colonial times up through WWII as well as a federal prison (housed Geronimo for a time).  The Santa Rosa area includes Seaside where the Truman Show was filmed.  Both have beautiful beaches, but the beautiful (and more wealthy) people spend their time on the Santa Rosa beaches.  Seaside is a quaint little town that has a Mayberry feel where everything is perfect (hence where the Truman Show was filmed), but it comes with a hefty price tag.  Maybe you should visit both.

Ron, thanks for the 'like'.  I can't begin to tell you how much I have benefited from your tips, suggestions, and you sharing information.  I'm happy to make a small contribution.  My next project is sound dampening. Mark
52  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drive line vibration diagnosis on: November 15, 2013, 08:56:49 am
Captain's Log, Stardate 11/15.  I took the PC back to the driveline shop Monday after the owner bought some new parts to extend his balancing analyzer so it would hold the entire driveline.  He called me yesterday and said it was much improved, come and get it.  I did.  The damage was about $225.  On the way home, I drove it from speeds of 1 mph to 72 mph and all the vibration and noise is gone.  "Much improved" was an understatement.  It's fixed.  Hurray.  It took 7 trips to various shops, but it's now fixed and I can find something else to complain about!  For those on Facebook, do a search for Panhandle Driveline and you can see a video of the PC shaft on his machine spinning quite fast.  Oh, the fix was a rebalance job after the first rebalance job (and after Ford's original balance job).  He found a high spot at the second joint he couldn't see by balancing 2 shafts at a time.  He had to put all three on the machine.  Then he tweaked the angles by putting 2, 1 degree shims after the transmission and 3 shims before the axle.  I'm pleased and think for all the time the mechanic spent on it, I got out with good work a very fair price.  Mark
53  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Noisy converter? on: November 06, 2013, 10:11:38 am
I thought mine cycled on a lot and the manufacturer's info said it was so quiet I would probably not hear it. 

One man's quiet is another man's 1st row rock concert seat.  I find the converter fan is a restless beast cycling at what I would think should be low peak current draw times.  We try to ignore it. 
54  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: How i do Ham Radio with the 2350 on: November 02, 2013, 10:29:49 pm
What kind of screwdriver are you using and how did you ground it?  Where did you run the coax w/o drilling holes?  Is that a tuner under the radio or the control for the screwdriver?  Is that a ft100d?  I don't do much ham radio anymore since the advent of reliable cell communications, but would like to put a HF unit in my PC in the event we have an emergency that takes down cell service.  Looking for mounting points, all I find is a lot of fiberglass!  Mark
55  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: November 01, 2013, 02:40:02 pm
Working off Sparky's comments, I think I have a solution.  I found the hole was about 1/2" from where the hose attaches to the pump.  I cut the hose just beyond the hole.  I still wanted to use the connector on the end so I pulled on the hose metal reinforcement and yanked it out of the connector leaving the remains of the hose.  Next I took a razor blade and reamed out the rest of the hose.  Then I pushed the good section of the hose back in and snugged it down with a hose clamp and reinstalled on the PC.  I'll thoroughly test it tonight and see if it holds up.  I certainly don't want it to come apart while pumping poo poo.

If you use a pvc pipe, you will probably need to go from the 1" nominal diameter to 3/4" to get the hose to go over the pipe.  I have every size around the house but 3/4".

PC uses sheet metal screws to hold the gasket where the hose runs through the fiberglass and they do have sharp pointy ends.  However, the hose shouldn't ever come in contact with the screws if care is taken during installation. 

The hose failure appears to be a manufacturing defect.  Mark
56  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC 2350 Fuel Mileage on: November 01, 2013, 08:36:45 am
I've put about 3000 miles on our 2552 and the mileage ranges from about 7.8 to 9.5.  In stop and go driving, it's much worse.  It seems that once you get over 55, the gas mileage drops very, very quickly.  However, going 50 to 55, we never seem to get to where we are going.  I usually cruise between 62 and 65 mph.  According to the scan gauge, I get about 18-20 mpg going downhill and about 5 to 6 going uphill.  I'm trying to figure out how to arrange our trips so we are always going downhill.  Mark
57  Main Forum / General Discussion / Pin hole in the Sani Con hose on: October 27, 2013, 02:51:11 pm
Right where the sani con hose comes out of the pump and makes a 180 degree turn and goes into the sani con housing where the rest of the hose is stored, I have a very small pin hole leak that sprays yuck a surprisingly long way.  There is quite a bit of pressure on that hose.  Has anyone tried to patch one of these hoses?  I'm sure it would have to patched from the inside.  I guess sani con would be the contact for a replacement hose?  I thought about shortening the hose by about 4-6" to get passed the leak, but I'm not sure how the hose is connected to the fitting.  Thanks, Mark
58  Main Forum / General Discussion / Broken latch-Where to buy on: October 27, 2013, 02:44:34 pm
I somehow broke a latch on one of the doors above the passenger seat.  I have 2 types in the RV:  One is a pinch style and the other is a rotating clip.  I broke the one with a clip.  Can I buy these at a hardware store or do I need to order it from PC?  Thanks, Mark
59  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drilling into the closet on: October 27, 2013, 02:40:31 pm
Thanks for the tips!  I got the shelves in.  It ain't pretty (luckily it's behind a door), but they survived our first trip and the shelves are worth their weight in gold.  Mark
60  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drive line vibration diagnosis on: October 27, 2013, 10:54:52 am
Update:  From annoying to downright bad.  I took the PC in on Monday and told the mechanic I needed it back for a weekend trip by Thursday.  No problem.  Well, nothing is e z.  On Wed. afternoon I called and he said he was done but it needed some tweaking.  I asked if he could get the tweaking done by Thursday noon and he said that would be plenty of time.  I called Thursday at noon and he said he wasn't finished but come and get it.  Not finished, why?  Well, it seems this is an unruly beast that doesn't conform to normal driveline criteria.  The Ford driveline was designed to angle down from the transmission and up from the axle.  This driveline angles down, then up, and then down.  He told me to take it on my trip and he would resume work next week.  He had calls into his folks to find a fix and he would have the answers next week. 

We took the PC on a 280 mile RT and it was quite a bit worse than when I took it in.  Markedly worse.  The vibration now starts at 35mph and gets terrible at 45 and then 'drones' out at 55 and then from there is about the same as it was before. 

Here is what he did:  The mechanic balanced each shaft and as Kermit thought, the back Ford shaft was the worst, but I noticed new weights welded on all three shafts when I crawled under there.  Then he balanced the first two shafts together and the rear two shafts together.  They were balanced at 2250 rpm which is my 'sweet spot' of 62 mph where I get decent (a relative term) gas mileage and still eventually get to where I'm going.  He replaced the u joints with 'lifetime' lubrication (without asking me.  Hmmm.) claiming otherwise the bearings would never get lubricated due to oversight.  He counterpoised the high spots with the low spots on the front and rear to smooth out the driveline.  He measured the angles at each coupler and next used shims to tweak the smoothest (or in my case the least roughest) rotation.

The offset angle the Ford guy warned me about is normal according to this guy because Ford offsets the driveline in the event of a rear end crash that reached the axle, the driveline will push out at this point preventing transmission and engine damage.  However, this really isn't an issue in an RV due to the overhang.

Next step:  The mechanic is ordering an extension for his balancing machine so he can put the entire shaft (I think he said 118") on it and spin the whole thing.  He will consult with driveline suppliers and give them the lengths/angles and get their input.  I called Kermit (he is in Atlanta?) to get his input.  The mechanic is leaning towards an e z but expensive fix of replacing the rear 2 shafts with a single piece 5" aluminum shaft (The stock is 3" steel [or did he say 3 1/2"?] which he thinks is marginal for the load).  With two pieces, the angles will be 'normal' and you remove a variable (coupler) from the mix.  Mark

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