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16  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Milky Way over PC2100 on: November 04, 2015, 03:09:04 pm
Spectacular!!!!!
17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Winterizing on: November 02, 2015, 10:54:02 am
David

We were traveling home in late fall the first year we started RV'ing and would need to winterize soon after we got home.  Since I had never winterized our travel trailer before I needed some help/direction as to what to do.  I was fortunate enough to park next to a very helpful owner of a RV dealership.  This gentleman gave me some very good information and very valuable insight into what needed to be done.  He showed me the Camco winterizing kit that was installed on his unit and explained it use.  I installed the winterizing kit after we got home and have used one ever since.  The installation was simple and straightforward.

Our 2008 2350 did not have the winterizing kit installed but I was pleased to see it came standard on our 2012 2551.

Here is a link to a couple of sites that sell the kit.  Using a winterizing kit such as this eliminated the need to put antifreeze in the fresh water tank.  On our 2012 2551 we winterize for less than a gallon and one half. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Pump-Converter-Winterizing-Kit-36543/205808441?keyword=36543+Pump+Converter

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1446476809&sr=8-6&keywords=winterizing+kit


Barry
18  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Need The Strength Of "THE HULK" To Work Your Shower Head? If So, Read This. on: November 02, 2015, 09:17:24 am
Ron

Congratulations.  Retirement is a summer vacation that never ends.  Enjoy!

Barry and Sue
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Winterizing on: November 02, 2015, 09:10:28 am
David

This is a very comprehensive list that will be most helpful. Thanks to you and Tom for putting it together.
Also, may I add a corollary to item 16.  I also blow out the flush lines in the San-Con.

Barry
20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: RV Insurance and Extended Warranty Insurance on: October 31, 2015, 02:16:25 pm
We have our insurance through AARP The Hartford.  It is $437 a year and is valid for the full 12 months.  It also includes an Emergency Motor Home Roadside Assistance as part of the price.  It says they will dispatch the nearest local emergency service to get your RV going again or tow you to the closest qualified facility anywhere in the US or Canada.  We have never used it.  We have worked with The Hartford before on a couple of claims and they were fantastic!

We have 250,000/500,000 liability and $100 deductible.

We have two other cars and our home and boat through them so I know we get some discounts.

I know at times we just put storage insurance on the cars but we have never tried it on the RV since we use it most months.
21  Main Forum / Around the Campfire / Re: Traveling without our PC on: October 28, 2015, 05:54:04 pm
Beautiful fall colors!!  Glad you shared it with us.

We will be staying in a hotel at the end of November for 1 night.  We haven't done it in many, many years and I am already dreading not having my own bed, sheets, bath etc...  Our PC has really spoiled us.

22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: October 27, 2015, 11:36:25 am
Jim

Here is another option you might want to consider for extra seating.  

We have a 2012 2551  with slide and ordered the swivel seat option for both the driver and passenger seats.  It provides additional seating without taking up any floor space and provides a sense of openness to the floor plan.  In addition, you can have a small side table added.  We found both the extra storage and seating to be very useful.

Barry


23  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Need The Strength Of "THE HULK" To Work Your Shower Head? If So, Read This. on: October 25, 2015, 07:41:15 am
Ron

Yes, the longer screws were for the corners but the screw count and size I provided was for a 2551 with a corner shower.  The 2350 has a different style shower and the screw count and size might be different.

Barry
24  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Need The Strength Of "THE HULK" To Work Your Shower Head? If So, Read This. on: October 24, 2015, 10:11:31 pm
Ron,

We replaced the screws in the shower awhile back.  See my post http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,1876.msg14578/topicseen.html#msg14578
25  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Ring Cotter on Slide Out Needed replacing on: October 24, 2015, 07:57:29 pm
Very often when we run the AC the water drips in one particular spot on the slide out.  After several years I noticed that the ring cotter (see picture below) was rusting.  The factory sent me a replacement and it is now fixed.  I will be looking to replace these with stainless steel ones in the very near future.

What a great company for support!!!!!

26  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Need The Strength Of "THE HULK" To Work Your Shower Head? If So, Read This. on: October 24, 2015, 07:39:42 pm
Ron

We replaced our shower hose a couple of years ago.  Works great and is very flexible with no rust.

It is the stainless steel hose on this site:
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/RvShowerHeadsHoses

Perhaps something on this site might meet your needs.

Barry
27  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Inspect Your Roof, It Might Need A Touch Of Caulk Here And There Like Ours on: October 24, 2015, 08:47:18 am
Ron,

Fiberglass has a broad expansion and contraction factor regarding temperature changes and that is why the leveling sealant is used, mainly because of its flexibility.  The leveling sealant doesn't look pretty but that is the way it is suppose to look and yes it does stay somewhat pliable. Eight years is a great run for any product. UV really is hard on any material.
28  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Inspect Your Roof, It Might Need A Touch Of Caulk Here And There Like Ours on: October 23, 2015, 10:34:56 pm
When we had to have something resealed on the roof it was resealed with Dicor self leveling sealant.  This is what the RV industry uses.  It has a higher flexibilty then silicone and we were not mixing two different types of sealants.  Will be much easier if repairs have to be made to the same area in the future.  
29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Battery wiring diagram for PC2100 (2008) on: October 21, 2015, 09:46:46 am
Gail

The first thing to determine is if you have 6V or 12V batteries

If you have two 6 V batteries they should be wired in series. If you have two 12 V batteries they should be wired in parallel.

Here is a link to a diagram that show 6V series and 12V parallel battery wiring:
https://sp.yimg.com/xj/th?id=OIP.Mf70114eb117fefa9a7225d71e02e030co0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300

The easiest way to determine if your batteries are wired correctly is to measure the voltage between a negative and positive pole.  If you read 12 volts DC you are wired correct.  If you read 6V or 24V you are wired wrong.

We had a 2008 2350 and experienced a similar problem with our batteries boiling away the fluid.  I think there were two factors related to my problem.  First, the Tripp-Lite combined converter/inverter did not have the advantage of current technology (3 stage charger) and had a tendency to overcharge the batteries.  Second, as a pair of batteries age one battery will not be able to hold a charge as well as the other.  This will set up an imbalance in the electrical system that will tend to cause the converter to overcharge.  I think these factors combined to reduce the overall life of my batteries.

Barry
30  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Tow Bar Boot Replacement on: October 16, 2015, 03:26:59 pm
While on a recent trip, we noticed our tow bar boots (Blue Ox Aladdin) had small holes in them and the latch handle grips showed a lot of wear.  Checked around for the parts and found E-trailer had the best price (under $30 for all the parts delivered).  Here are the links to the parts I used.

Replacement Latch Handle Grip
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Blue-Ox/BX84-0181.html

Replacement Rubber Boot
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Blue-Ox/BX84-0102.html

Below is the process I used to replace the latch handle grips and the rubber boots.  There may be other ways but this worked for me.

Latch Handle Grips ( Less than 5 Minutes )

The grips have a snug fit but proved to be relatively easy to remove.  A combination pulling/twisting motion and the grips pull right off.  The new grips just pushed into place.

Rubber Boot ( 20 - 30 Minutes per Leg)

1. Cut off the old boot from the tow bar leg.
2. Extend the leg, lock in place and clean off the old grease.
3. Remove the triple lug at the end of the arm. Discard the locking nut and SAVE the bolt.  The nut is not designed for reuse.
4. Start with the large end of the boot, spray some silicone inside the boot and slide the boot over the leg pivot onto the leg.  The key here is to lubricate the inside of the boot.
5. Pull the boot back to expose the leg of the tow bar and apply a light coat of lithium grease.
6. Secure the large end of the boot with the included (larger) zip tie.
7. Attach the other end of the boot with included (smaller) zip tie.
8. Reattach the triple lug with the new included locking nut and bolt from step 3.
9. Move leg in and out to work in grease.


Barry
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