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241  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote Entry Locks Using Key Fobs - Buy Them & Program Them Yourself on: February 02, 2011, 06:34:17 pm
So I am thinking out loud here, if you go through the pre-programming sequence with the ign switch, and the vehicle does the lock unlock thing, does that confirm you have the remote module??

FYI I see some fobs cheaper than 4 for $70.
242  Main Forum / General Discussion / Second Owner OUTSTANDING SERVICE on: January 18, 2011, 07:43:32 pm
I sent an info request for a battery sensor and this is PC's (Kermits) response.

On 1/17/2011 10:24 AM, Kermit Fisher wrote:
> I'm sending you a new sensor. We discontinued using them with the tripp-lite system. I doubt how effective they really are, but one is coming your way no charge.
> Thank you,
> Kermit Fisher
> 574-266-xxxx

Dear Mr. Fisher,
Thank you, Sir.  I believe you are probably right since there is a battery charge rate default temperature used internally (75-77F, I believe) that should kick in with loss of sensor.  In my case every thing was normal, i.e., no boiling, gassing, etc., until I lost the sensor and then the charger fried the battery in short order.  The battery bank being ~3 years old anyway probably did not help.

My real concern was keeping the system as near to the way PC shipped the unit as possible.  FYI the Tripp-Lite online help system was not helpful, and in fact shunted me off to second source oem's that basically had no interest in aiding either me or Tripp-Lite.

I did not mean to ask for "freebies" and certainly will reimburse PC for any expenses if you will make them known to me.

Thank you again for your service, attention to detail, and great customer response.
L. G. Huitt

243  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Another question on: January 07, 2011, 09:38:50 am
Might want to run power from the MH to the toad through that unused center wire.  Keeps the battery in the toad up, from the aux brake system and lights.
244  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Carbon Monoxide Detector on: December 25, 2010, 04:25:00 pm
I believe, with out going to check that my CO detector is on the ceiling, in front of the smoke detector by a foot or so.  The specific gravity of CO is ~.96 so I guess the ceiling is the best place.  In the other MH we had it was about head level close to the bed, which would place it roughly 24-30 inches from the floor. Don't have a clue as to which is the correct placement.  Our house has one at about 30 inches.  Maybe the Company could weigh in with reasoning and correct placement? Thanks.

L. G.
245  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Heading out from Mechanicsburg, PA Thanksgiving week on: November 21, 2010, 10:57:17 am
About ever place you are headed is wifi'd hope you will keep us updated on your travels and the weather.

246  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: November 07, 2010, 01:46:26 pm
Couple of motorhomes ago and in the early 90's I got caught in the Michelin fiasco that irrc took out 4-5 of 7 tires.  When I finally put steel/steel radials replacements on; no more trouble. 

Just recently (last trip) blew a tire on the toad (while being towed - exciting).  Separated at the overlap of the belts. I suspect that the two belts overlap were not supposed to be lined up as they were and that probably was the cause.
247  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: November 05, 2010, 04:08:05 pm
Some jurisdictions consider a "tire billy" to be an offensive weapon, others a concealed weapon, some, like Oklahoma have state statues banning them, although I would bet circumstances would have more effect than just a random "find".

Mine fell out on the pavement during a traffic stop for speeding, years ago, and the "nice policeman" just shook his head and let me put it back under the seat. 
Of course this was in a known Oklahoma speed trap town (Lahoma, OK) and they were more interested in immediate revenue, than what they would loose by carting me off to the county seat thereby loosing time on the street writing tickets, since it is a state violation not local. 
248  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: November 04, 2010, 11:30:53 pm
I have tpms on a pickup and the car I tow and am seriously considering having the tpms sensors removed and conventional stems put in.  False signaling, inability to rotate the spares in (even with matching wheels) without a major swapping around of sensors (at a tire store), interference are all reasons that the technology doesn't work well for me.  I like and buy 4wd and awd vehicles and not rotating the spare can cause transmission damage in short order by having a tire substantially different in circumference (as little as 1/16 - 1/8 inch difference in diameter I have been told) when you have to use the spare; in some cases manufacturers have not thought out the tpms systems well.  Both of my vehicles do not allow the use of 5 sensors since there is no way to activate the spare sensor.  For the moment black tape over the light works and reminds me to check pressures every fill up, as I have gone to a 5 tire rotation schedule.  I bought add on tpms for the MH and they are still in the cabinet and probably will never get installed (my contribution to the economy I guess).
249  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Towing with a PC on: November 03, 2010, 05:18:44 pm
I think Ron may have hit on the tranny differences I have run the Eisenhower both ways with a 3600lb towed and never get below 40-45 unless there is a back up.  Ron did they move I-80? Kidding.

L. G.
250  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Waste Tank Sensor Probes on: October 30, 2010, 01:01:00 pm

I use a product that I believe I bought at Home Depot called Zep Drain Care.  It lists bacteria and several enzymes on the label.  I mix it according to label directions and add to a full black tank of water and let it work for 3-4 days and then pump it into the city sewer.  It will also take care of soap scum that tends to "plate" out on the gray tank, and any other "stuff" that may be in the tank.  I think there are other formulations that are used to enhance septic systems performance that would work as well.  I have used this treatment for at least 10 years, at the end of the using season, and it works well for me, although not providing laundry fresh smelling tanks.  While doing this I also keep the dump valves open and hopefully particulates are removed from the seal areas there too (taking apart and cleaning valves, overhead as it were, is not one of my favorite projects).

I think that the bleach use is "probably" okay if a fresh water rinse is used to lower the concentration, but a life of working in a lab still makes me check the compatibility charts before I get in trouble. Just me.

L. G.
251  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Waste Tank Sensor Probes on: October 29, 2010, 08:55:52 pm
I  don't want to throw cold water on a process that is obviously working for you, but, bleach is very hard on rubber components and also will cause "white rust" of the Sani-Con SS parts if left in contact too long.  Cole-Parmers compatibility list rates both materials as only fair for sodium hypochlorite contact less than 20% concentration.

There are some bug based cleaners and enzymatic types that do a great job for end of year (winterizing)  tank cleaning that pretty much take care of the sludge referred to in the original post.

L. G.
252  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Heading out from Mechanicsburg, PA Thanksgiving week on: October 28, 2010, 07:47:15 pm
We are headed towards Washingtons Crossing Pa next week, but sans the Phoenix.  We have not found Eastern Pa to be winter friendly to RV's.  Been there in at least 3 different RV's and none of the trips were memorable in the camping sense.  Been there in a couple of snow storms around T-giving and PTA seems to think that quarter to half inch clinkers make for good traction, they do, but hell on paint jobs.  I had to have a motorhome front end and a pickup back to the doors repainted.

There is a dearth of anything this time of year from St Louis Eastward on I-70 and then 76, in my opinion.  We spent long days waiting for commercial campgrounds to be open that never were and rest areas are no longer do-able IMO.  The reference books for camping seem not to get the winter (open/close dates)  stuff right.  Even the hill country of Missouri (most along I-44) are closed for the most part until the West side of the state.  Oklahoma and Texas better until you get to New Mexico and then the altitude will freeze the campgrounds out again.

In our travels from Oklahoma to Pa, we pretty much count on longer than normal travel days just to hit what may perchance be open.  BUT not this time.

L. G.
253  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tow guard on: October 25, 2010, 10:51:37 pm

I didn't do the installation of the Roadmaster Tow Guard I use since I bought the hitch setup used.  It is super simple to use and the only down side in my book is safe storage in a campground.  As to whether to use or not, we initially made one trip with and one without and will not be doing another without.  In my estimation there is a complete protection of the towed with its use. I even got bug strikes on the towed with out it and none with it and this year was the year of LARGE grasshoppers where we went.
I guess the storage problem is really mine since it can be locked to the part of the hitch that I leave on the car, which if I left it on the tow bar when unhooked would solve the problem.  I am just too lax and lazy I guess to undo anything other than the two pins to unhook.  I use a a cable bicycle lock in the camps.

L. G. 

254  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Making changes in the forum on: October 20, 2010, 04:48:51 pm
IBM 3090's wow, what an upgrade, I started with IBM 360.  Just the other day we were talking at coffee and I made the statement that my GPS has more computing power than the entire company had when I went to work for them in 1973 and we had the second largest computing system in the world at that time. 
That does not bring back fond memories.

L. G.

Sorry back to topic.
255  Main Forum / General Discussion / Bed Support Exterior Wall, AND a Better Mouse Trap, Winterizing on: October 18, 2010, 10:35:10 pm
As I started the winterizing process which in my 2700 required removing half of the mattress support, to gain access to the pump, I discovered the rail that held the panel was loose to the point of the entire support being the water tank.  I cut appropriate length supports from pine 2x4's (and then split in two)  and then tried the new fast cure Gorilla Glue.  Glued the new supports to the old rail underneath and to the plywood "floor" and a couple of hours later it was better than new IMO. I felt this was a necessity for the next thing I did below, since the hinge attached to the rail.

While back there I decided to piano hinge the half sheet mattress support and put a retractable stiff leg in to hold it up while using the pump and anti-freeze to winterize.
Actually makes working around that space nice, while not having to walk over or look for a place to put things, keeps the clutter to a minimum.

This may not be helpful to all but it sure will make my life easier on a 2700 two slide.

L. G.

P. S. Don't forget to blow the water out of the tank flush valving and inlet port when winterizing.  I did not blow it out last year and did this year, and was very surprised at the amount of water trapped in that system.
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