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256  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: winterizing mh on: October 16, 2010, 11:32:02 am
Thanks to Tom Hanlon for the vent suggestion on the Sani-con drain line.  I spent the afternoon yesterday shagging parts and putting a vent in and it works like a charm.

I put the ball valve in the storage compartment below the light where the Sani-con line sagged when stored -perfect fit.

No more putting the line up with liquids in it.

L. G.
257  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: ACC ignition setting for radio usage on: October 15, 2010, 04:22:42 pm
I would put a 12v relay with the acc hot lead from Ford controlling the coil.  Put a hot lead from the battery on one side and the eclipse on the the other.  The key then controls the relay just like in the real world, without compromising the computers little mind.

L.  G.
258  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: winterizing mh on: October 05, 2010, 02:06:11 pm

The vent hose is a great idea and one that I will incorporate before winterizing, Thanks.

L. G.
259  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water heater bypass on: October 04, 2010, 11:43:59 pm
The bypass keeps you from using six gallons of anti-freeze just to fill the hot water loop.

L. G.
260  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: winterizing mh on: October 04, 2010, 11:38:45 pm
Take the kitchen drawers out and the hot water bypass is easy to access, the low point drains are also in that space under the bottom drawer - this on the 2700.
I also built an adapter with regulator to keep the air pressure at or below 40psi.  Normally my fill takes about a gallon and a half.  I use the jacks on the passenger side to tilt the rig enough to mostly drain the fresh water tank.
If you have the pump out (Sani-Con) system remember the pump and hose also needs some antifreeze in it.
L.  G.
261  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: RV to Car Battery Charger on: October 04, 2010, 11:35:05 pm
I  ran a 10ga wire to mine and change the plug from a ? to a 7.  Only problem I had was feedback and cured that with a diode blocker in the toad.  It has worked well for several trips now and I most times don't turn off the car or the brake system overnight when only staying the night.  Always starts, as far as I can tell, normally for the pre-leaving lubrication, next morning.  Before I put in the blocking diode I ran things down a couple of trips.
Hope this helps.
L. G. 
262  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Questions for new 2350 on: October 03, 2010, 05:00:29 pm
Best $50 bucks I have spent at Camping World was for the windshield cover.  Santa Fe last week was warm and the AC kept up well during the day with it on. Since the campground had a West facing spot (I got it) it was nice to try out for that purpose alone.

L. G.
263  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Deep descents, rpms, redline, etc. on: October 01, 2010, 08:31:01 pm
My opinion only, but I would play the gear game to use the engine braking as much as possible.  Correct mountain driving if I remember correctly is to slow well below what is required and as speed builds again, brake again.  That should give adequate cooling in between brake applications.  I lost the brakes going into Red River NM once pulling a trailer and it not only get's your attention but causes one to seek the best info so it does not happen again(Ford F-250 diesel).  I have done Bobcat pass several times since with out problems by getting into a low gear at the top and judiciously slowing/braking.

L. G.

264  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Is a slide-out practical? on: September 29, 2010, 09:43:16 pm

Marital blisssssssssss.

Sorry, but the added space does fall in that column.

There is not enough additional weight carrying capacity or places to put the weight imho to offset the space.

And the two slides were a definite selling point for us.

L. G.
265  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: latch on sani con door on: September 07, 2010, 11:24:04 pm
And if Ron's suggestion doesn't work out, try your local computer supply. Those latches are commonly used on the side doors on cabinets for rack mounted equipment.

L. G.
266  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thermostat on: September 05, 2010, 11:46:05 am
A new AC that would pass my draw down test was included when I bought my unit, used.  It was a Carrier 15K unit and included a new digital thermostat.  It was horribly inaccurate (~9-10° to low) until I found a Carrier website that had instructions to adjust the offsets and how to access the programs.  Once the re-set was accomplished it has been very accurate.  I suspect the selling dealer re-set it to make the new AC unit appear to be performing better than it was - I brought my own calibrated digital thermometer to check the draw down rate.  This is probably not much in the way of help, but is my experience.

L. G.

P.S. Forgot to include, that instructions were also on the site, to adjust the anticipatory circuit too, and that has helped keep the humidity and temp in check.
267  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: August 10, 2010, 10:41:29 pm
Ford is riding a wave I imagine and don't have to do anything that they don't want to.  I believe if you will check deeper the warranty does start when you take first possession, course I've trusted Ford once too.  The trough comes on the back side of the wave.

L. G.

Top quality replacement radiators are anywhere from $200 to 250 shipped in and I believe a new one will fit in the storage under the bed.  So far Prestone has aced Ford and "fixed" the problem.
268  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Surge Protection on: July 21, 2010, 08:47:46 am
Never hurts  (and may help) to rehash old technical stuff for new people that are just coming on board. IMHO.
L. G.
269  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 20, 2010, 09:40:53 am

Took the PC to the dealer that Ford Corp suggested for the radiator replacement UNDER WARRANTY.

Ford reneged on the warranty, nuff said????
270  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 16, 2010, 07:26:57 pm

My rig is 2007, and the warranty by Thetford is one year.  They run upwards of $400.00 +/- depending on the model - I have not checked the price on a comparable to what I have.  In my opinion it works pretty well, just leaks.  If I can put my past employment skills to the test (research) I can probably solve the design flaws. I also have one of the portable rigs that works the same way that I bought for my trailer to pump out at home into the outside sewer clean-out, different brand though. I suspect that looking both over, with what looks to be a 99+% commonality that it's a made for, branding type thing.  As for me buying another or a replacement that just is not
going to happen, with the built in hook-up options, that is money in the tank, gas tank.

L. G.
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