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256  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: winterizing mh on: October 05, 2010, 02:06:11 pm

The vent hose is a great idea and one that I will incorporate before winterizing, Thanks.

L. G.
257  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water heater bypass on: October 04, 2010, 11:43:59 pm
The bypass keeps you from using six gallons of anti-freeze just to fill the hot water loop.

L. G.
258  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: winterizing mh on: October 04, 2010, 11:38:45 pm
Take the kitchen drawers out and the hot water bypass is easy to access, the low point drains are also in that space under the bottom drawer - this on the 2700.
I also built an adapter with regulator to keep the air pressure at or below 40psi.  Normally my fill takes about a gallon and a half.  I use the jacks on the passenger side to tilt the rig enough to mostly drain the fresh water tank.
If you have the pump out (Sani-Con) system remember the pump and hose also needs some antifreeze in it.
L.  G.
259  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: RV to Car Battery Charger on: October 04, 2010, 11:35:05 pm
I  ran a 10ga wire to mine and change the plug from a ? to a 7.  Only problem I had was feedback and cured that with a diode blocker in the toad.  It has worked well for several trips now and I most times don't turn off the car or the brake system overnight when only staying the night.  Always starts, as far as I can tell, normally for the pre-leaving lubrication, next morning.  Before I put in the blocking diode I ran things down a couple of trips.
Hope this helps.
L. G. 
260  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Questions for new 2350 on: October 03, 2010, 05:00:29 pm
Best $50 bucks I have spent at Camping World was for the windshield cover.  Santa Fe last week was warm and the AC kept up well during the day with it on. Since the campground had a West facing spot (I got it) it was nice to try out for that purpose alone.

L. G.
261  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Deep descents, rpms, redline, etc. on: October 01, 2010, 08:31:01 pm
My opinion only, but I would play the gear game to use the engine braking as much as possible.  Correct mountain driving if I remember correctly is to slow well below what is required and as speed builds again, brake again.  That should give adequate cooling in between brake applications.  I lost the brakes going into Red River NM once pulling a trailer and it not only get's your attention but causes one to seek the best info so it does not happen again(Ford F-250 diesel).  I have done Bobcat pass several times since with out problems by getting into a low gear at the top and judiciously slowing/braking.

L. G.

262  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Is a slide-out practical? on: September 29, 2010, 09:43:16 pm

Marital blisssssssssss.

Sorry, but the added space does fall in that column.

There is not enough additional weight carrying capacity or places to put the weight imho to offset the space.

And the two slides were a definite selling point for us.

L. G.
263  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: latch on sani con door on: September 07, 2010, 11:24:04 pm
And if Ron's suggestion doesn't work out, try your local computer supply. Those latches are commonly used on the side doors on cabinets for rack mounted equipment.

L. G.
264  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thermostat on: September 05, 2010, 11:46:05 am
A new AC that would pass my draw down test was included when I bought my unit, used.  It was a Carrier 15K unit and included a new digital thermostat.  It was horribly inaccurate (~9-10° to low) until I found a Carrier website that had instructions to adjust the offsets and how to access the programs.  Once the re-set was accomplished it has been very accurate.  I suspect the selling dealer re-set it to make the new AC unit appear to be performing better than it was - I brought my own calibrated digital thermometer to check the draw down rate.  This is probably not much in the way of help, but is my experience.

L. G.

P.S. Forgot to include, that instructions were also on the site, to adjust the anticipatory circuit too, and that has helped keep the humidity and temp in check.
265  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: August 10, 2010, 10:41:29 pm
Ford is riding a wave I imagine and don't have to do anything that they don't want to.  I believe if you will check deeper the warranty does start when you take first possession, course I've trusted Ford once too.  The trough comes on the back side of the wave.

L. G.

Top quality replacement radiators are anywhere from $200 to 250 shipped in and I believe a new one will fit in the storage under the bed.  So far Prestone has aced Ford and "fixed" the problem.
266  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Surge Protection on: July 21, 2010, 08:47:46 am
Never hurts  (and may help) to rehash old technical stuff for new people that are just coming on board. IMHO.
L. G.
267  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 20, 2010, 09:40:53 am

Took the PC to the dealer that Ford Corp suggested for the radiator replacement UNDER WARRANTY.

Ford reneged on the warranty, nuff said????
268  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 16, 2010, 07:26:57 pm

My rig is 2007, and the warranty by Thetford is one year.  They run upwards of $400.00 +/- depending on the model - I have not checked the price on a comparable to what I have.  In my opinion it works pretty well, just leaks.  If I can put my past employment skills to the test (research) I can probably solve the design flaws. I also have one of the portable rigs that works the same way that I bought for my trailer to pump out at home into the outside sewer clean-out, different brand though. I suspect that looking both over, with what looks to be a 99+% commonality that it's a made for, branding type thing.  As for me buying another or a replacement that just is not
going to happen, with the built in hook-up options, that is money in the tank, gas tank.

L. G.
269  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 15, 2010, 12:14:28 am

The leaks, if you trace (and assume) that the residue is the path, it appears in my case to be a direct result of "stuff" attacking the paper gaskets, from the inside out, and then leaks along the studs and out the drain cutouts in the bottom of the macerator chamber.  I am going to say from experience that paper works well in times of old (carburetors/fuel pumps come to mind) but in today's arena with the wealth of modern materials for gaskets available, paper is woefully inadequate.  Because of design of the seals/clearances/mating surfaces/etc., whatever material gasket either has to be very thin, i.e. paper, or pretty compressible.  I chose to go with a rubberized fiber that is fairly compressible, roughly 1/32" thick.  I also remade the studs out of 316SS since a couple of the brass originals was showing chemical attack, as were the brass acorn nuts so I replaced them with nylock SS nuts.  I have checked the shaft seal and since it is acting as a static seal and see no evidence of it leaking on the back side, I won't replace it at this time (FYI it is available at bearing supply houses).  I generally leave the gray tank open if staying for more than one day - the by-pass should relieve any pressure except for gravity and leaks should not be happening in the pump.  When I sold my trailer I kept the hoses, a premonition I guess.  If this doesn't hold up for more that one trip, which is the experience so far, I will too go back to conventional stuff. My waste system is plumbed for either Sani-Con or 90 from it's location is the convention hook up.  BIG BUT here, with Sani-Con usage there is always going to be residual water/waste in the outlets downstream from the valves and that is a problem in itself when hooking up slinkies.  I therefore consider it only for emergencies as long as the Sani-con is in the system.

As to Ford, I think diplomacy on the part of the better half made the difference there.

L. G.
270  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford Radiators on: July 12, 2010, 05:40:49 pm
I have an update that I have to eat a little crow with as I type.

Sent the obligatory email to Ford Customer Service after dealing with them by cell during the trip and really expected the same answer, that the time is up even though the mileage was a hair over a third of the mileage part of the warranty.  The Customer Service listed under the warranty section forwarded my request to Fleet Customer Assistance, and there was no personal follow-up with me, by Fleet.  HOWEVER they did forward an 800 number to call, that was hooked up to Ford's RV Customer Assistance Center.

At this point I was full into a project to add three storage shelves and Lexan doors to the pull-out storage in the Kitchen area, so, I kinda forgot about the email until the wife asked if I had gotten a response from Ford.  I respond yea, you bet, but have not called it, not expecting much.  Being an old purchasing supervisor and expediter she volunteered to make contact (also knowing a bit about my lack of patience).

She called Ford RV Assistance this morning and Assistance people conferenced in a local Ford dealer.  In the conversation it became evident that not only was Ford going to stand behind the radiator replacement (at no cost to us) but completely took care of transferring the remaining warranty into our names. 

Plus to Ford.

The shelving project turned out very very well, (she likes it).

NOW if the new gaskets I made for the Sani-Con pump stop that leak we will be three for three on the positive side.  That pump is starting to get a bad name like Tragic-Con in some circles with the leaking visible in campgrounds.  I saw a couple of them (different models) on some Class A's during our trip and they all had, at best, some seeping and unhappy owners (those leaked in bays).  This is the second set of gaskets I have made and hopefully by upping the thickness they will seal the leaking areas with minimum loss of efficiency since clearances are several thousandths more than the paper gaskets that it comes with that don't stand up to the environment well.

Good Crow.
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