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1  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Death Valley on: October 27, 2015, 12:17:12 pm
We drove that road a couple years ago in our 2551 towing a Wrangler.  We went down into Death Valley on 190 and there was no problem with the road, I don't know how it is to go uphill on that road.  We left to the east on 178 to Pahrump, NV and it was an uphill climb with sharp turns and a temp of 113F, the PC made it out with no problem.  I decided that I should turn off the AC to keep the engine temp down in that heat going uphill and it worked fine, no indication of overheating.  Based on this experience, I personally would not hesitate to go out hwy 190.

I thought it would be a good idea to turn on the generator and run the coach AC to keep us cool, it worked great for a bit until I hit the steepest part turning a sharp corner and the generator went off.  Apparently the fuel in the tank was below half and it sloshed around enough to suck air in the generator pick up tube which is at about 1/4 tank level.  Fortunately the outside temp cooled off quickly as we climbed out of the valley.

2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: MPG - E450 - four summers on: September 11, 2015, 08:07:55 pm
I assumed the throttle was open slightly at idle so I used the TPS value displayed while coasting downhill. For me that value plus 4 is 18. Your vehicle may be different.

I think the throttle is considered closed by the TPS whenever your foot is off the gas pedal, whether at idle or coasting downhill.  I will check this next time out in the RV.  You had a better understanding of the ScanGauge than I to know to look at the TPS value, I never thought to do that.  Now I get it and will proceed accordingly.

We are heading out in the PC next week, headed to Moab and Ouray to do some Jeeping, I will check the ScanGauge then.
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: MPG - E450 - four summers on: September 11, 2015, 02:47:23 pm
Our Scangauge II reads 99.99 when coasting downhill in gear. Are you sure you have the Cutoff parameter set to the TPS value + 4?

This is what the manual says:

Set the Fuel Cutoff Level
Some vehicles will turn the fuel injectors off while coasting this is known as Fuel Cutoff.  ScanGauge attempts to detect the fuel cutoff condition by comparing the open/closed loop indicator and the throttle position.  If ScanGauge improperly detects fuel cutoff, then you may see fuel economy being reported as 9999 MPG or 0.00 LHK.

The CUTOFF parameter allows you to set the point at which ScanGauge can determine the throttle is closed and in the fuel cutoff condition.  The default value of 24 is usually correct for most vehicles but may need to be adjusted. This setting is not critical but is best at about 4 above the no-throttle TPS value. You can choose to disable the fuel cutoff sensing feature of the ScanGauge by setting the value of CUTOFF to 0.

I have left mine set at the default value of 24, because I don't know what the actual no-throttle TPS value is so that I can set it +4 above that.

Are you saying that you set yours to +4 above the no-throttle TPS value, if so, what is that value?

I may try setting it to "0" to disable the function since I am not sure what is happening here, or maybe I should call ScanGuage.

Thanks, Bob


I just sent the following to ScanGauge and will report back with their response:

I have had my ScanGauge II for three years and have always wondered about setting the Fuel Cutoff Level.  Can someone tell me what exactly is happening with that function?  I have left it at the "24" default setting because I don't know what the no-throttle TPS value is for my 2010 E450 V10 engine, so that I can set it at "+4" above that value.

How will the MPG readings be affected by either (A) leaving it at "24", (B) setting at the "+4" above the no-throttle value, or (C) setting it to "0" to disable the function?

Thanks for any help you can give me to understand this,


Reply from ScanGauge:

Some vehicles will turn the fuel injectors off when coasting (also known as the fuel cutoff) which causes the fuel economy to go to 9999 MPG or 0.00 KHL. This shows when you are not using any fuel while coasting. The ScanGauge attempts to detect the fuel cutoff condition by comparing the open/ closed loop indicator and the throttle position. The cutoff parameter allows you to set the point at which the ScanGauge can determine the throttle is closed and in the fuel cutoff condition. To tell if the throttle is closed, the throttle position is checked against the CUTOFF value. CUTOFF is the value the throttle has to be below in order to indicate a fuel cutoff and show 0 fuel flow. The default (24) is right for most vehicles, but it can be adjusted. The setting is not critical, but is best if about 4 above the no-throttle TPS value. If the cutoff value is set to "0" it disables this method of fuel cutoff sensing and therefore eliminates the 9999MPG reading. To check your no throttle TPS value, pull up the TPS in the GAUGE screen while idling. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Seems simple now that it was explained further.  The no-throttle value is simply the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) value at idle, when the throttle is obviously closed, and it can be found by by looking at the TPS value in the GAUGE screen.  Then add 4 to that value to set the CUTOFF value.

4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak in bath area on: August 04, 2015, 06:02:03 pm

We had water in the same area of our 2010 2551 on a trip where we were using the shower a lot, we were not in campgrounds with showers.  I determined the water was getting behind the shower handle assembly and down the wall to the floor, it then traveled behind the sink and toilet.  I sealed the shower handle assembly and the leak stopped and has not appeared again.

If you have been using the shower a lot on this trip, this may be the source of your leak.  If so, I can provide more details.

5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New Members Approved on: July 29, 2015, 07:47:29 pm
Thanks for the heads-up, glad to help any way we can.

Thanks for the great work you do, Bob
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Air not working on: June 16, 2015, 02:25:15 pm

My understanding of the 50AMP RV service is a little different.  I think a RV electric service pedestal actually provides a RV with two 50AMP phases.  This means that the RV would actually receive a total of 100AMP or about 12,000 watts.



You are right about the 50 Amp RV service, two 50 Amp 120V lines vs one 30 Amp 120V line.  There is an amazing capacity difference between the two, 12,000 watts vs 3,600 watts. 

7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cable box on: May 08, 2015, 12:04:41 am
Same with our 2010, use the TV menu to switch to cable input and then do the auto scan to find available channels.  Also have to make sure the antenna amplifier in the cabinet to the right of the TV is off, no red LED, on is for roof antenna only.

8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 20, 2015, 01:48:21 pm
After five years and 30,000 miles, our extensions have worked great, no leaks and easy to check/inflate tires.  I wonder what the failure (leak) rate is for these extenders?  We do hear about those that have leaked, but not so much from those that have not had a problem.

Based on my no-leaks experience, I have decided to continue with extensions when we replace the tires in the next few years, but I will get new extensions.  I don't want to reuse the existing ones because I think the rubber tubing may have hardened somewhat and won't like being re-positioned in the new installation.

To assure no leaks, I also wanted to have a way to keep them from getting loose on the stem.  Rather than Loctite, I am thinking of putting a glob of silicone sealer on the outside of the extension nut where it meets the stem thread.  This would resist loosening but be easier to remove and not risk anything getting inside the extension.

As an added level of assurance, I have recently added pressure monitors to the four duallys, I know that adds another potential leak point but then the monitor will report that.

Anyway, those are my thoughts on the subject.

Bob A
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rotate passenger seat on 2552 on: March 07, 2015, 01:23:59 pm
Sounds like you are doing it correctly, I slide it all the way back to clear the B-pillar and then slide it forward a bit so the back of the seat clears the console to finish the rotation.  Are you sure it is all the way back, I would try sliding the seat all the way forward and then all the way back.  Sorry I don't have anything else.

Bob A
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 03, 2015, 07:34:18 pm
Hello Bob,

Sorry to read what you posted and see the pictures of your light. I hope as mentioned it was a fluke.
We have all LED lights in our Cruiser and think they are very bright. Have you or anyone on the forum come across other lights that are not so bright?
We would like to switch out some of the lights mounted under the cabinets and replace them with something warmer. The LED lights we currently have put off a very BRIGHT white light.

Any thoughts or recommendations you or anyone else can share would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Hi Dave,

I don't have a lot of experience with LED lights, but if you are looking to reduce the brightness, I would contact the fixture manufacturer to see if they have replacement LED bulbs with warmer color or lower lumens.  Or see if the bulb is standard and can be replaced with any other brand that is warmer or lower lumens.

Hopefully others with the newer LED fixtures will reply with better info.

Bob A
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 03, 2015, 11:43:08 am
Yes, it was probably a fluke and will never happen again, and we are over-reacting by replacing all the tubes and not leaving the lights on when away.  But, after seeing what could happen, we are kinda forced into doing something to be sure it doesn't happen again.

Please replace that flaky bulb you mentioned.

Bob A
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 02, 2015, 07:23:50 pm
THIS IS NOT A CRITICISM OF PHOENIX USA, just an observation of an equipment failure beyond their control.

I wanted to pass along my recent experience with one of the fluorescent light fixtures in my 2010 2551.  One of the bulbs failed in a way that melted the plastic fixture and the ceiling material underneath.

During our seven week trip in Arizona I noticed that the bulb in one of the ceiling fixtures would flicker when first turned on and the ends were getting dark.  I figured that it would simply quit working and then I would replace the bulb.  A few days later, I smelled melting plastic and quickly turned it off, the bulb was still working.  The pictures show that there was a hot spot at the end of the bulb that burned the reflective paper and melted the plastic housing.  The heat was also melting the ceiling material.

I believe that this could have resulted in a serious situation if we were gone from the RV.  I have never seen a fluorescent bulb fail like this and consider this to be an unusual failure mode.  However, I wanted to pass this info on so that others will pay closer attention to failing fluorescent bulbs.  My PC is 5 years old with 31,000 miles and many hours of light fixture use.  I am going to replace all the fluorescent bulbs at this time, they are available online for about $2 each.  Another possible solution is to replace with LED fixtures.  We also no longer leave any fluorescent fixtures on when we leave the RV.

Bob A

13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: House lock problems on: December 06, 2014, 07:58:38 pm
Hi Janey,

Sorry that you are not getting lots of help as is usually what happens.  I didn't even know that a keyless entry house door was available, probably not many out there.  I hate to state the obvious, but a call to Kermit may be the solution.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Bob
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: November 08, 2014, 12:47:34 am
Hi Ron,

Sounds like a well thought out plan, keep us informed on the results as I may go down the same road.

15  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Protection & Convenience on: October 25, 2014, 10:50:52 am
Looks perfect for your needs, he did a nice job on design and welding.  I wish I had a bumper on the back when I accidentally backed into my Jeep when trying to reposition in a camp spot, long story, luckily not much damage.
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