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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 03, 2015, 07:34:18 pm
Hello Bob,

Sorry to read what you posted and see the pictures of your light. I hope as mentioned it was a fluke.
We have all LED lights in our Cruiser and think they are very bright. Have you or anyone on the forum come across other lights that are not so bright?
We would like to switch out some of the lights mounted under the cabinets and replace them with something warmer. The LED lights we currently have put off a very BRIGHT white light.

Any thoughts or recommendations you or anyone else can share would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Dave

Hi Dave,

I don't have a lot of experience with LED lights, but if you are looking to reduce the brightness, I would contact the fixture manufacturer to see if they have replacement LED bulbs with warmer color or lower lumens.  Or see if the bulb is standard and can be replaced with any other brand that is warmer or lower lumens.

Hopefully others with the newer LED fixtures will reply with better info.

Bob A
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 03, 2015, 11:43:08 am
Yes, it was probably a fluke and will never happen again, and we are over-reacting by replacing all the tubes and not leaving the lights on when away.  But, after seeing what could happen, we are kinda forced into doing something to be sure it doesn't happen again.

Please replace that flaky bulb you mentioned.

Bob A
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 02, 2015, 07:23:50 pm
THIS IS NOT A CRITICISM OF PHOENIX USA, just an observation of an equipment failure beyond their control.

I wanted to pass along my recent experience with one of the fluorescent light fixtures in my 2010 2551.  One of the bulbs failed in a way that melted the plastic fixture and the ceiling material underneath.

During our seven week trip in Arizona I noticed that the bulb in one of the ceiling fixtures would flicker when first turned on and the ends were getting dark.  I figured that it would simply quit working and then I would replace the bulb.  A few days later, I smelled melting plastic and quickly turned it off, the bulb was still working.  The pictures show that there was a hot spot at the end of the bulb that burned the reflective paper and melted the plastic housing.  The heat was also melting the ceiling material.

I believe that this could have resulted in a serious situation if we were gone from the RV.  I have never seen a fluorescent bulb fail like this and consider this to be an unusual failure mode.  However, I wanted to pass this info on so that others will pay closer attention to failing fluorescent bulbs.  My PC is 5 years old with 31,000 miles and many hours of light fixture use.  I am going to replace all the fluorescent bulbs at this time, they are available online for about $2 each.  Another possible solution is to replace with LED fixtures.  We also no longer leave any fluorescent fixtures on when we leave the RV.

Bob A







4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: House lock problems on: December 06, 2014, 07:58:38 pm
Hi Janey,

Sorry that you are not getting lots of help as is usually what happens.  I didn't even know that a keyless entry house door was available, probably not many out there.  I hate to state the obvious, but a call to Kermit may be the solution.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Bob
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: November 08, 2014, 12:47:34 am
Hi Ron,

Sounds like a well thought out plan, keep us informed on the results as I may go down the same road.

Bob
6  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Protection & Convenience on: October 25, 2014, 10:50:52 am
Looks perfect for your needs, he did a nice job on design and welding.  I wish I had a bumper on the back when I accidentally backed into my Jeep when trying to reposition in a camp spot, long story, luckily not much damage.
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do I Need A New Sanicon Macerator? on: October 21, 2014, 07:51:05 pm
I had a slow leak that looked to be from the weep hole, but upon closer inspection there was a crack in the impeller housing.  I disassembled the pump and repaired the crack with epoxy.  The two paper gaskets were shot and instead of buying new ones, I used RTV silicone gasket material that I use on my Jeep axle housings.  I just returned from a trip and there is no more leak, and most interesting is that the macerator repair and and all plumbing between the holding tank valves and macerator hose end cap is leak tight.  This was evident when we arrived at our destination on the Pacific Coast at sea level after leaving our home at 5,000 ft elevation.  The macerator hose would not stretch out to the sewer hook up, it kept springing back to it's shorter stored length.  I couldn't figure out what was wrong until I removed the end cap on the macerator hose and heard air rush in and the hose relaxed like normal.  So I am confident that since it could hold a partial vacuum that there are no more leaks in mine at this time, amazing in that it also includes the rubber shaft seal on the macerator impeller shat.

Bob
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak from Sanicon pump on: September 15, 2014, 04:52:14 pm
Hi Bergie,

I just went through a similar situation with a slow drip from my 2010 sanicon.  The reason the drip stops awhile after dumping is because the volume of water trapped between the sanicon and the two tank valves drains out through the leak and no more is coming through the closed tank valves.  So that is good news that the tank valves are not leaking.  The bad news is that the sanicon has a leak.  I took mine apart and found a crack in the housing.  I did some grinding and filling with epoxy and the leak is fixed for now.  You can buy a new housing from various RV suppliers.  Also there are gaskets and a shaft seal that may be the problem, those are available as well.  You may have to just tear it down and see what the problem is.

I didn't buy any parts so I don't have a supplier to recommend, I replaced the paper gaskets with RTV gasket sealer and that worked great.

Bob

9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 15, 2014, 12:34:14 am
JAS,
That is not good news, let us know what the factory says.
Bob
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 10, 2014, 10:05:27 pm
Jim,

Ron is correct, the sticker with the CCC should be inside one of the cabinet doors.  Coincidentally, my sticker was missing and the factory sent one to me.

Bob
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 10, 2014, 06:39:21 pm
Jas,
Reading your post made me wonder about our 2910T coming off the line next month.  I just talked to Earl this morning.  He told me that the yellow sticker inside the door has the vehicle weights on it.    He told me ours should have around 2000 LBS of cargo carrying capacity (CCC).  He was at the Hershey RV show & checked the 2015 Phoenix Cruiser 3100 they are showing there.  It's the one pictured on the website inventory page.  It has a CCC of 2200 LBS.

 :)Makes me wonder if the scale operator didn't have you lined up quite right.  Hope this all works out.

Dave   

Jas,
Dave makes a good point, what does your sticker indicate for CCC?  I looked at mine and the calculated CCC is for food and stuff (cargo); the fuel, water, propane, and people are included in the vehicle weight to determine the CCC.
Bob
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 07, 2014, 07:21:17 am
Jim,

I weighed my 2010 2551S while on a trip and it was fully loaded with fuel, water, supplies, and all our clothes and stuff, and two of us in the RV.  The front axle was 4400 lbs and the rear axle was 8000 lbs for a total of 12400 lbs.  You are at 14600 and still not fully loaded, probably over 15000 when loaded comparable to mine.  That doesn't seem right for just 4 feet longer on your rig compared to mine, even with two more slides.  Hopefully someone with a 2910T will post their weight and see how you compare to them.  Can't believe that all the larger PCs are running around over the 14,500 lb Max GVWR.

Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.

Bob
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I broke my step on I seventy six, doda doda day on: September 04, 2014, 12:40:58 pm
Tom,

Thanks for the tip, I will check mine today.

Bob
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sewer bypass for Sanicon? on: September 04, 2014, 12:36:38 am
Our 2010 2551 has the bypass facing the rear just left of the hitch bracket.  There is no fuse, the power for the sanicon goes through a 20 amp circuit breaker located under the passenger side bed to the right of the power distribution center, the circuit breaker should reset itself.  You will have to remove the bed platform to get to the circuit breaker, but with a volt meter you may find the problem if it is indeed a power problem.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Bob
15  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: RV Repair Flowchart on: June 13, 2014, 07:18:46 pm
I know that is meant to be a joke, but I carry both items, should I be worried?  Grin
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