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1  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Protection & Convenience on: October 25, 2014, 10:50:52 am
Looks perfect for your needs, he did a nice job on design and welding.  I wish I had a bumper on the back when I accidentally backed into my Jeep when trying to reposition in a camp spot, long story, luckily not much damage.
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do I Need A New Sanicon Macerator? on: October 21, 2014, 07:51:05 pm
I had a slow leak that looked to be from the weep hole, but upon closer inspection there was a crack in the impeller housing.  I disassembled the pump and repaired the crack with epoxy.  The two paper gaskets were shot and instead of buying new ones, I used RTV silicone gasket material that I use on my Jeep axle housings.  I just returned from a trip and there is no more leak, and most interesting is that the macerator repair and and all plumbing between the holding tank valves and macerator hose end cap is leak tight.  This was evident when we arrived at our destination on the Pacific Coast at sea level after leaving our home at 5,000 ft elevation.  The macerator hose would not stretch out to the sewer hook up, it kept springing back to it's shorter stored length.  I couldn't figure out what was wrong until I removed the end cap on the macerator hose and heard air rush in and the hose relaxed like normal.  So I am confident that since it could hold a partial vacuum that there are no more leaks in mine at this time, amazing in that it also includes the rubber shaft seal on the macerator impeller shat.

Bob
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak from Sanicon pump on: September 15, 2014, 04:52:14 pm
Hi Bergie,

I just went through a similar situation with a slow drip from my 2010 sanicon.  The reason the drip stops awhile after dumping is because the volume of water trapped between the sanicon and the two tank valves drains out through the leak and no more is coming through the closed tank valves.  So that is good news that the tank valves are not leaking.  The bad news is that the sanicon has a leak.  I took mine apart and found a crack in the housing.  I did some grinding and filling with epoxy and the leak is fixed for now.  You can buy a new housing from various RV suppliers.  Also there are gaskets and a shaft seal that may be the problem, those are available as well.  You may have to just tear it down and see what the problem is.

I didn't buy any parts so I don't have a supplier to recommend, I replaced the paper gaskets with RTV gasket sealer and that worked great.

Bob

4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 15, 2014, 12:34:14 am
JAS,
That is not good news, let us know what the factory says.
Bob
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 10, 2014, 10:05:27 pm
Jim,

Ron is correct, the sticker with the CCC should be inside one of the cabinet doors.  Coincidentally, my sticker was missing and the factory sent one to me.

Bob
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 10, 2014, 06:39:21 pm
Jas,
Reading your post made me wonder about our 2910T coming off the line next month.  I just talked to Earl this morning.  He told me that the yellow sticker inside the door has the vehicle weights on it.    He told me ours should have around 2000 LBS of cargo carrying capacity (CCC).  He was at the Hershey RV show & checked the 2015 Phoenix Cruiser 3100 they are showing there.  It's the one pictured on the website inventory page.  It has a CCC of 2200 LBS.

 :)Makes me wonder if the scale operator didn't have you lined up quite right.  Hope this all works out.

Dave   

Jas,
Dave makes a good point, what does your sticker indicate for CCC?  I looked at mine and the calculated CCC is for food and stuff (cargo); the fuel, water, propane, and people are included in the vehicle weight to determine the CCC.
Bob
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: REAR AXEL OVER LOADED on: September 07, 2014, 07:21:17 am
Jim,

I weighed my 2010 2551S while on a trip and it was fully loaded with fuel, water, supplies, and all our clothes and stuff, and two of us in the RV.  The front axle was 4400 lbs and the rear axle was 8000 lbs for a total of 12400 lbs.  You are at 14600 and still not fully loaded, probably over 15000 when loaded comparable to mine.  That doesn't seem right for just 4 feet longer on your rig compared to mine, even with two more slides.  Hopefully someone with a 2910T will post their weight and see how you compare to them.  Can't believe that all the larger PCs are running around over the 14,500 lb Max GVWR.

Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.

Bob
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I broke my step on I seventy six, doda doda day on: September 04, 2014, 12:40:58 pm
Tom,

Thanks for the tip, I will check mine today.

Bob
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sewer bypass for Sanicon? on: September 04, 2014, 12:36:38 am
Our 2010 2551 has the bypass facing the rear just left of the hitch bracket.  There is no fuse, the power for the sanicon goes through a 20 amp circuit breaker located under the passenger side bed to the right of the power distribution center, the circuit breaker should reset itself.  You will have to remove the bed platform to get to the circuit breaker, but with a volt meter you may find the problem if it is indeed a power problem.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Bob
10  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: RV Repair Flowchart on: June 13, 2014, 07:18:46 pm
I know that is meant to be a joke, but I carry both items, should I be worried?  Grin
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: refrigerator still a problem on gas on: June 13, 2014, 05:42:12 pm
The refer will not operate on gas if the battery disconnect switch is not on.  To turn it on push the "use" side of the switch.

If your overhead lights work when not on shore power, then the switch is on and this is not your problem but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Bob A
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: traveling I 70 west of Denver on: June 13, 2014, 01:04:03 pm
Jan and Dick, sorry we got off your question.  Is there then anyone out there that pulled a toed over some interstate highway mountain passes?

Good job getting back to subject.

We have 30,000 miles on our 2010 2551 towing a 4,000 pound Wrangler throughout the western states.  Over too many mountain passes to count or remember the elevations.  Never a problem, handles the tight curves fine and power to get over all the passes.  On the steepest climbs you will slow down, but all the other RVs and trucks are as well.  Just be sure to engage the "tow/haul" feature as it will save your brakes on the down hill, it works very well.

I now have so much confidence in the PC that I don't think about the route, just go and enjoy.

Bob A
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: traveling I 70 west of Denver on: June 12, 2014, 06:29:32 pm
Bobander, I would also like to disagree and / or agree, but can't find any info except from another forum.😟

Can you point me to a legit source of info, where you gathered this?

Here are links to the 2014 Ford brochures for the Class A and C motorhome chassis, it has been this way for many years not just 2014.

http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/brochures/2014/Class_C_brochure-2014_LoRes.pdf

http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/brochures/2014/Class_A_brochure-2014_LoRes.pdf
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: traveling I 70 west of Denver on: June 12, 2014, 11:54:32 am
They put this engine in 30+ class A's, and you know they tow..  

At the risk of appearing rude and a know it all, and getting some "disagrees", I offer the following:

The V10 in the F53 chassis class A's has 3 valve heads where the E450/350 chassis has 2 valve heads.  They say this is because of the limited room in the E450/350.

The difference is 362hp and 457lb-ft torque in the 3 valve vs 305hp and 420lb-ft torque in the 2 valve, so the class A's have more power for the larger package.

Just trying to be helpful,
Bob A
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: valve extenders and tire pressure monitoring system on: June 03, 2014, 11:22:45 am
I have had flexible extenders on several motorhomes with zero issues. But... i just had the Michelin recall done (Feb.) and found both inner tires flat one morning post the new tires being installed.  I  figured they were just poorly installed and really put the pliers onto them.  One has held air but the other one has subsequently gone flat again.  I have ordered new more expensive extenders to see how they work.   It is a real pain without them so need to install something. 

Are you able to reach the inner wheel stem to tighten the extension without removing the outer?

What did you order and keep us posted on how you like them.

Your experience makes me want to order new extensions when I replace the tires.

Bob A
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