It is under the passenger side bed, but I don't know how to drain it now that the newer models don't have a drain valve on the exterior under the fill port.

Yes, it is for starting when the vehicle battery is dead.  The issue is that the wire gauge is too small to carry the full starting current and the voltage drop will be so much that it won't start.  So you have to hold it on long enough to charge the vehicle battery enough to start the engine from the vehicle battery plus what little current comes when the switch is held on.

How long?  That depends on how dead the vehicle battery is, just hold the switch on and try to start the engine, if it doesn't turn over quickly turn off the key and wait and try again.

Hi Ron,

Draw-Tite makes a front mounted hitch for the E450, I may have to do that as I can't find a tow hook that mounts to the frame and passes thru the plastic trim piece below the bumper.  There is an opening for a tow hook but the frame is 10 to 12 inches back.  I see tow hooks on Ford pick-ups in this opening but they aren't long enough for the E-series.  I was hoping someone had been down this road and found a tow hook that will work, the local Ford dealer says Ford doesn't make one.

The hitch looks like a nice installation, it is not too low, protrudes through the plastic trim (have to cut the plastic) in the center and you have to move the license plate to one side.  It weighs 32 pounds.

Thanks, Bob

I want to install tow hooks on the front of my 2010 2551.  There are openings in the plastic trim below the bumper that appear to be for tow hooks that I see on the Ford pickups.  I have searched the internet and called the local Ford dealer and can't find anything.  Has anyone done this?  I need to help my RV out of the driveway in the winter when there is snow.

Thanks, Bob

ps .... had another Phoenix Cruiser sighting  today in Vero Beach, FL .... three in four days time ... we are getting over run with Phoenix cruisers  !!

Wow, that's a lot compared to the one we saw over a 5 1/2 week trip from California to Kentucky and back.  We will be on the look out during our two month trip to Arizona this winter. 

Greg,

Not sure that I understand exactly what the issue is, but I think you are saying that the generator is not charging the batteries.

The circuit breakers are all on, and the vehicle is in store. Any idea of how long to charge battery with generator under these conditions?

If you mean that the battery disconnect switch is in the "store" position; then the generator, or shore power, will not charge the batteries.  The switch has to be in the "use" position for the converter to charge the batteries via either the generator or shore power.  In the "store" position, all 110vac and 12vdc circuits will work when on shore power or generator, but the batteries will not charge.

Is it possible that you had the switch in "store' while running the generator and in "use" when on shore power and that would explain why the batteries were not charged on generator but were by shore power?

Hope this helps,
Bob A

Greg,

I also have a 2010 2551 and it does have the amplifier with the button and red led light, it is in the cabinet over the passenger seat.

As the others have said, you have to have the light on for over the air reception and off when cable is plugged into the rv.  When on a road trip staying in different places each night it can get confusing; one night on antenna and the next may be on park cable.  Now my wife reminds me to check the amplifier if I am having trouble with the TV reception.  And as Barry said, you also have to switch the TV between cable and "air" antenna input.

I purchased the wingman to help reception in remote areas like Quartzsite, AZ, it works.

Bob

I have had only one E450 chassis motorhome, my current 2010 2551, the frame extension looks exactly like the preferred method.  Can't tell what the metal type is, have to assume that the recommended material was used.

Bob A

5k lbs weight limit on the PC hitch. GC over that.

The label on the hitch on my 2010 2551 has two ratings;

For weight distributing type hitch: 6,000 lb max trailer wt and 750 lb max tongue weight

For weight carrying ball mount type hitch, 5,000 lb max trailer and 500 lb max tongue

Not sure why the hitch type allows for different trailer weights, but maybe towing a vehicle with essentially no tongue weight would be ok up to the 6,000 lbs??

I would definitely be talking with PC before I did that: reasoning is that most of the frames have been sectioned and plugged.  On the 2007 I had, parts welded in were not full length welds, so by default the new parts were not as strong as the original frame, from which all those numbers derive.

Regarding the frame extension reinforcement not being full length welds:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q18.pdf

This Ford document describes the recommended procedure to lengthen the frame and the preferred method is skip welding and specifically leaves some areas of the reinforcement piece unwelded to allow flexing and to eliminate stress risers that could lead to cracking.  The document describes in detail the disassembly, lengthening, and reassembly procedures, very interesting if you like that sort of thing.

Bob A

We just completed a 5 1/2 week, 5,000 mile, trip and saw only one other PC.  We went from California to Kentucky and back.  Finally saw a PC arrive in a campground on the Mississippi near Memphis.  Didn't go over that afternoon as we were in the middle of a tornado watch and preparing to abandon our PC!  The next morning I stopped by and met the owner, they had just picked up their new PC and were headed home to Oklahoma.  He had great things to say about the folks at the factory and I encouraged him to join the forum and share his experience and see the great info from other PC owners.

Just frustrating that I didn't many PCs, guess it is a big country.   

Bob A

I just completed a 5,000 mile trip and found a problem with the valve stem core on one of the rear tires.

I check tire pressures periodically during the trip and on one occasion, when I removed the cap, I heard air hissing and noticed the core had backed out of the stem.  I quickly put the cap back on to stop the leak.

Fortunately I carry a compressor with me and was able to tighten the core and inflate the tire.  I went to an auto parts store and bought a core tool that is like a small screwdriver, much easier to use than the one on the end of some tire gages or the multi-purpose core tool that also has thread taps in the shape of a small cross.  The tool is also drilled out in the bottom of the slot so that the core does not let air out when tightening.

I checked all stem cores and the ones on the rear dually extenders all needed tightening.  I guess the one finally backed out enough to leak when the cap was removed.  Fortunately the cap kept the tire from leaking and also limited the amount the stem could back out so that it did not blow out when the cap was removed.

Just wanted to pass this on so others may avoid similar problem,
Bob A

Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

--GeorgeB

I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

Bob A

I used #8 - 1" long flat head zinc plated steel screws.  I like the strength of the steel vs brass or sst for this application.  If  I see any sign of rust on the screw heads, I will apply white paint.  I have been on the road for three weeks with lots of rain and no rust yet.  Also, look around the RV and see how many other screws are zinc plated steel with no problems.  I don't think silicone sealer will be necessary as the existing sealing material under the flange squeezes out under the flat head screw.  My 2010 had countersunk holes, if you have drill the countersink then you might need some sealer.

Bob

To help clarify, I do have the same fiberglass sheathing condition as Greg in a small flat area or two on my own roof, but it has not caused any type of problem.  No buckling, rippling or any other issue.  Regardless it has always been a bit concerning to me too.  I should also include that mine doesn't seem to be getting worse over the years which keeps my worries way down.

Same for my 2010 2551.

Bob A

For those new to the Sani-Con, I add my perspective:

I always use the Sani-Con, don't carry a 3" hose (probably should).  When hooked up for extended stay, the Sani-Con bypass hose lets the gray water drain slowly with the gray valve open, it only drains to about 1/3 full.  When getting close to time to drain black tank, I close the gray valve to fill the gray tank for flushing as described by Tom.  I make sure to use lots of liquid in the black tank and have never had the dreaded "cones".  A friend ended up with a horrible mess when he left his black valve open!

The Sani-Con is noisy and could be an issue if you were concerned about dumping with very close neighbors, in these rare cases the 3" hose would be better but I just dump in the middle of the day when nobody is home!

My 2010 model has the 3" outlet but no valve, just a cap.  What advantage is the valve?  Is it there in case the Sani-Con quits in the middle of a dump and removing the 3" cap to hook up a hose would result in a huge mess of "schmutz" as Bob calls it?  If I start carrying a 3" hose for emergency, I will probably add a valve.