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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: At long last - Our PC arrives! on: November 12, 2013, 10:56:44 am
I am no electrician  but I do know that 50 amps requires two hot legs, a neutral and a ground for a total of four legs. 30 amp only requires three legs, one hot, a neutral and a ground. I have a 50 amp (four leg) plug on my house and a 30 amp (three leg) plug on the PC. So I have a dog bone that has four legs for the house and three holes for the the PC. Basically it drops one of the the hot legs from the 50 amp. I would have to question if you have 30 or 50 amps in the PC. If you do how does it work?

Good description Tom, I was wondering the same thing.  I suppose the main breaker could be 50 amp instead of 30 amp since the incoming shore cable is rated at 50 amp; then the sub-circuits after the 50 amp main could be the same as on a 30 amp rig but more of them could be on at the same time without blowing the main 50 amp.

This is different from a typical 50 amp Class A rig where as you stated there are two 50 amp hot leads and two 50 amp main breakers which totals 100 amps.  A 30 amp rig has 30 amps total and it appears that this 50 amp PC has 50 amps total, which seems fine for a rig the size of a PC, 100 amps would be overkill for a typical Class C.

Bob
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drive line vibration diagnosis on: October 28, 2013, 01:07:13 pm
skipper,

I am sorry to read that your saga continues.  At least a resolution is at hand.

Reading through your post has me thinking about the joints on my E350.  Do I have grease fittings there?  I need to inspect them.  If I have only caps, I'll install fittings, and then grease as I have done up front with my ball joints and steering linkage.  Our rig now has near 22,000 miles.

Ron,

On my 2010 2551, I have only one greaseable u-joint.  It is the front u-joint on the short aftermarket driveshaft added by the shop that lengthened the frame.  The other three are sealed u-joints from Ford.  The zirk fitting is hard to see, it is in the center of the body and the grease is forced out to all four caps, some greaseable u-joints have a zirk fitting on one of the end caps and the grease finds it's way through the body to the other three caps.

You said that your rig has not been lengthened, so you likely have the Ford sealed u-joints and I don't believe you can add zirks to the sealed ones.

Bob


Skipper,

If your 2013 2552 has the same three Ford sealed u-joints and one greaseable aftermarket u-joint, did the mechanic only replace the one u-joint so that all four are now sealed?  I suppose it is possible that Ford has changed to geaseable u-joints and he changed them all?

I know that geaseable vs sealed u-joints is not important to you at this time as you struggle through the vibration issue, I was just scratching my head about it.  I hope they get the vibration fixed, it must be very frustrating to not be able to sit back and just enjoy the ride, I know it would bug the heck out of me and be the focus of my attention.

Bob
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Which shocks come standard from the factory? on: October 26, 2013, 01:14:22 pm
Upgrade complete. Had the Safe-T-Plus steering control and (anti?) Sway Bar installed. The unit (2012 2350 on Ford chassis) still tends to "meander" a bit between the white lines, albeit less so than before. However the back-and-forth side-to-side "wallowing" it did while driving is now thankfully gone. It drives solid and straight without the lateral "rolling" it used to do.

I opted out of having the shocks replaced and am now not sure whether or not adding HD shocks to the equation would have made any difference. I'll have a better idea once I get some miles on the rig with these new changes. Maybe I'll get bold and adventurous and try to replace the shocks myself!

Thanks again for the assistance.

Steve



Steve,

I know this has been mentioned in many other posts but not in this one so I thought I would throw it out.  The "meandering" you are still feeling could well be caused by over-inflation of the tires.  The "meandering" I felt with my 2010 2551 was gone when I lowered the tire pressures.  I weighed the RV loaded for travel and found that I could go from 80 psi to 65 psi front and rear, I eventually ended up at 70 front and 75 rear.  You can find the inflation charts from Michelin online.  So, if you have not adjusted your tire pressures for the actual load, I would try that next.

With over-inflated tires, the tires edges are not making good contact with the road and this could cause the "meandering" feeling as the front tires are not properly gripping the road.  Proper inflation for the actual load will provide the optimum footprint for the tire.  If you haven't already done this then it would be worth a try as it doesn't cost anything.

Bob A
34  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2012 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 18, 2013, 04:32:55 pm
Bob, Just clarifying...."fuse in line in the fuse box" You are referring to protection in the PC.

Yes, the fuse box under the hood of the Ford where the relay is, thanks for clarifying Ron.
35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2012 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 18, 2013, 01:44:36 pm
I'm still not certain what our next step should be.  Do we just attach a single wire to a connection inside of the CR-V's wiring socket that will extend the 12v line to the CR-V's positive battery post, or do we also need to connect a wire to the negative lead to extended it to the CR-V's negative battery post or to ground?

Bruce

If I type fast, I can beat Ron on this one.  Use a single wire from the socket to the positive battery post.  Ford uses 12 gauge wire for this circuit so you should continue with that gauge.  There is a fuse in line in the fuse box under the hood that protects the circuit.

Bob
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2012 Honda CR-V battery discharged after tow on: October 17, 2013, 08:10:19 pm

If we find any of the six connectors empty there (and they will match up to the 12v pins of the coily cable), do we just add wires there that will run directly to the towd's battery posts to complete the battery maintenance feature?
I believe you are correct.  I think it is that simple.  But keep in-mind of my story one reply higher.  You might need to unplug the coily cable from either end when parked for the night.  The alternative would be to add a diode in that 12V hot wire inside the tow vehicle so 12V will travel from your PC to the tow vehicle's battery, but not from the T.V. back to your PC.

Sorry Ron for challenging your response Smile, but Bruce may not need to add a diode or unplug the coily cable if his 2014 is wired the same as my 2010, and I would bet they are the same.  Ford runs the 12 volt charge line through a relay that is only energized in the run position of the ignition key.  So when the engine is off, the charge line is isolated at the relay which is in the fuse box under the hood.  You can verify this by checking with your multimeter that there is an open circuit on the charge line from the toad end of the coily cable to the frame of the PC with the ignition off and 12v when the ignition is on.  When the toad is connected and the ignition is off, the toad battery is not being discharged by anything on the PC, but there may still be something on the toad discharging the battery but at least the battery is kept charged while being towed.

Bob
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Drive line vibration diagnosis on: October 14, 2013, 07:38:22 pm
Mark,

Sound like you are on the right track in getting to the root of the problem.  Some time ago I ran across a Ford bulletin regarding driveline angles in modified Econoline cutaways used for RVs.  It describes the problems that can be associated with improper driveline angles and the solutions.  It is very technical but may be of some use as you go forward to try and resolve the issue.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q40.PDF

Bob
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: "TOW Haul" feature as shown on dash and trans light keeps coming on. on: October 14, 2013, 03:25:52 pm
It is my understanding that the "service soon" light is based on both time and miles, if it was not reset the last time you had your oil changed it may have just "timed out" and needs to be reset.  Most manafacturers have a sequence to go thru with the ingnition or other reset keys that will reset the clock/miles in the ECM and away you go, you should be able to do this sequence yourself.  I would not worry much about that light being on (unlike the check engine light)  since i do not beleieve that in 2010 the  E-450 had onboard dignostics that actaully evaluated the condiiton of the oil in real time and send a meesage when the oil is actually reaching the end of its life the way 2013 cars currently operate.... I may be wrong

On my 2010 E450 (same as OPs), the "Service Engine Soon" symbol is not used to indicate that normal maintenance servicing is required such as an oil change.  According to the manual, the "Service Engine Soon" symbol on the 2010 E450 indicates the On Board Diagnostics System (OBD II) has detected a malfunction.  This would require that the OBD II system be checked for codes to determine what the malfunction is.  There are hundreds of codes, some are government mandated and some are vehicle manufacturer specific, and the malfunction can be a small issue or very serious.  So the "Service Engine Soon" symbol is in fact a check engine light and should be investigated soon.

My other vehicles have those systems that indicate oil change required after time, miles, or monitoring of engine load.  Maybe the later E350/450s have some sort of maintenance reminder indicator in addition to the OBDII malfunction indicator?

39  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Black Tank Insulation on: October 14, 2013, 12:35:46 am
How about a thin sheet of aluminum or galvanized metal that could be bent to shape and attached to the tank support straps?
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: "TOW Haul" feature as shown on dash and trans light keeps coming on. on: October 12, 2013, 11:55:46 pm
Tow Haul feature works fine. The only light is saying service engine soon.  Spoke with Ford dealer in Bristol, and he said it could be a number of things and can  not see us until Tuesday to a diagnoxtic test.   

Be sure to let us know the outcome.
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: "TOW Haul" feature as shown on dash and trans light keeps coming on. on: October 12, 2013, 11:07:47 am
Frecklestweety,

Is this what you are saying -- the check engine symbol light is staying on and the "Tow Haul" light comes on when in Tow Haul mode?  If so, then the "Tow Haul" light is working properly, but there is a malfunction detected by the on board diagnostics that may or may not be related to the transmission.
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: "TOW Haul" feature as shown on dash and trans light keeps coming on. on: October 11, 2013, 10:08:04 pm
I am curious about the transmission light problem, I went out and turned the key on and checked the manual and I don't see a warning light specifically for the transmission, can you describe it in a little more detail.

Bob  checked the manual again and the icon means service engine soon.  I just had it inspected and all the fluids checked and they were fine
before I left from home a week ago.  So don'tknow what else it could be....I am in Bluff Tn and will leave on Monday for Stone Mountain GA and stayed until the 16th when I will go into the Good Sam Rally at the Atanta Speedway.  

If the check engine light is staying on then the On Board Diagnostics System has detected a malfunction, the problem can be any number of things.  You need to get the code read on the OBD-II port under the steering wheel to see what the problem is.  A Ford dealer or an independent shop can do that, and most auto parts stores will do this or you can buy a code reader that will work with any newer vehicle.
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: "TOW Haul" feature as shown on dash and trans light keeps coming on. on: October 10, 2013, 07:28:10 pm
I have the same PC as yours, 2010 2551, and I tow a Jeep Wrangler.  I use the "Tow Haul" feature because it changes the shift points so the transmission doesn't keep changing gears so much on hilly terrain.  I think it is easier on the transmission because it doesn't have to shift so often in those situations.  I especially like it when descending mountain grades to keep from overheating the brakes, it does a great job holding the speed on descents.  When cruising on flat freeways I turn off the "Tow Haul".  Don't really need to since the transmission will still go into overdrive in "Tow Haul" mode, but I don't like how it feels when coming to a stop in "Tow Haul" - hard downshifting.

I am curious about the transmission light problem, I went out and turned the key on and checked the manual and I don't see a warning light specifically for the transmission, can you describe it in a little more detail.

Bob
44  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Electrical Schematics for PC's power systems. on: October 10, 2013, 03:53:22 pm
Keelhauler,

Thanks for putting together the schematic.  I think I have a good understanding of my 2010 2551 wiring but it seems different from your schematic in one area.  You show three 12V lines going to the generator through circuit breakers, what would that be for?  On mine, those circuit breakers feed three things directly without going through the converter fuses; the slide, the maserator pump, and I forget the third. 

Bob

I checked my 2010 2551 today and found the following.  The three circuit breakers shown going to the generator in your schematic go to the Sani-Con pump (20A), the slide motor (20A), and the third is the charging line from the engine battery/alternator (40A).

I hope this doesn't come across as being critical, I appreciate your schematic, just wanted to help it to be accurate if your PC is in fact wired like mine.

Bob
45  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Electrical Schematics for PC's power systems. on: October 09, 2013, 11:35:44 am
Keelhauler,

Thanks for putting together the schematic.  I think I have a good understanding of my 2010 2551 wiring but it seems different from your schematic in one area.  You show three 12V lines going to the generator through circuit breakers, what would that be for?  On mine, those circuit breakers feed three things directly without going through the converter fuses; the slide, the maserator pump, and I forget the third. 

Bob
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