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76  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cabinet door latches on: October 13, 2014, 10:07:12 am
I replaced about 12 of them, which Phoenix replaced free of charge.

The good latch (5 lb pull) is  Southco Latch c3-805, do not buy one from brd. these are the bad ones.
Southco cost about $8 plus shipping, or free>$50

Phoenix uses a Chinese latch distributed by brdsupply.
The plastic fails and it comes apart.
77  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: October 11, 2014, 09:31:45 am
As for your solar panel charging issue, my first thought is charging voltage.  For 12v batteries a charge voltage is around 14 v.  What do you get from your solar setup?
 - Dick

Trojan T105 batteries that Phoenix installed on my rig indicates on their data sheets,  at least 14.8v to charge and 15.5V to equalize your batteries and 13.2V float after fully charged.
Most solar charge controllers are set up to do this correctly. Your 110-12v converter is not.

Also as noted all 6 volt batteries are almost 11" high, so that the tray must be lowered if your rig was built for 12v batteries. After April 2012 I believe Phoenix did this.

What happens to most campers is that their batteries never get fully charge so they observe that they don't get out the amp-hours that they believe they should.
78  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Future newbie with a couple questions on: October 11, 2014, 09:06:57 am
Batteries - 2-6v Golf cart batteries have plenty of amp hours which should be slightly more that 2-12v batteries. They work MUCH better for deep discharge than 12v marine batteries. That is why Phoenix switched in late 2012. Solar charging is a must because the converters that they use NEVER get your batteries fully charged. They don't put out a high enough voltage. The Ford alternator will full charge them when driving or if no solar arrays, use a portable battery charger the puts out at least 14.8v to charge and 15.5 to equalize your batteries.
79  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Full-timers on: September 30, 2014, 12:08:06 pm
We full time in our 2552 all winter in Mexico. We have been doing a Mexico blog for the past 6 years.
We also have a website where we show all our travels.

We are on our second Phoenix Cruiser and our 3rd motorhome.

We have put a lot of mileage on all of them.
80  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Disappointing gas mileage on: September 30, 2014, 11:56:48 am
Theoretically as long as it is the octane it is designed for, using a higher octane would actually lower your mpg.

Brand has no effect, all comes out of a limited number of refineries. I see all the brands using the same refinery.

What has the biggest effect is % of alcohol they put in the fuel. If you can get 100% gasoline you will improve your mpg by as much as 10%.
81  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak from Sanicon pump on: September 16, 2014, 05:10:39 pm
I broke the same part (1-70535 Bayonet) and got a new one from Carol for about the same price.
Thetford bought Sanicon and you can get parts diagrams from

This part is a little hard to remove. I used an oil filter band wrench to be able to unscrew the part from the pump.

82  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Power step on: August 24, 2014, 12:31:46 pm
On newer models PC sealed the back of the switch.
However it's still a cheap crappy switch. They should use something better and more weather resistant.
It actually deteriorates inside the switch, that's why just turning the button around will sometimes clean the contact and make it work for a while.
83  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bio-diesel on: July 16, 2014, 08:51:43 am
However, Sprinter does not require bio-diesel.
84  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bio-diesel on: July 13, 2014, 03:17:52 pm
Bio Diesel?? I don't think so.

Diesels require ULSD - Ultra Low Sulpher.

Available everywhere in USA but not in Mexico except near the border.
85  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Power step on: July 09, 2014, 09:39:53 am
Several problems with my step have occurred over the years.
One, the door switch is cheap and unreliable. But, if on the road, rotate the switch just turning the little button. This cleans the internal contacts on the switch and will get that switch working again.
Your problem is not that switch.

The second problem is that power needs to get to the step control from you ignition switch. This closes the step when the key is turned on, a blown fuse can keep this from happening. Fuse is inside under left panel as described in first answer.

The step manual shows all the wires involved and they are color coded. A proper ground is necessary. I left my simple wiring diagram in my RV which is not accessible to me now.

I once found a loose wire connector in the wiring after the big plug to the switch control box..

I'm sure it is not the control.
86  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Sub-alpine dry camping on: July 07, 2014, 09:37:20 am
Dry Camping - Cold weather suggestion

We use warm sleeping bags at night and turn on the furnace in the morning.
We utilize solar arrays to keep our batteries fully charged and NEVER let them go below 50% charge, or about about 12.1 Volts.

It is not possible to charge the batteries to 100% using shore hook-up or the generator. The engine alternator will charge them fully.
87  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar installation on: May 04, 2014, 05:14:36 pm
The aluminum structure has 24" spacing. The easiest way I found to see where they are is to climb up on the roof on a humid morning. There will be lines of dew where each structural member is. Mark with ink pen.
Aluminum is non-magnetic.

I've done three different RV's with solar where I drilled into the roof, use Dicor to seal, never ever had a leak.

There is wiring in the structure. Each florescent fixture that Phoenix installs is attached to one of these channels.

Solar is the best way to charge batteries as long as the charge controller puts out 14.7 to 14.9 volts which the batter manufacturer recommends.
88  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Transmission Clunk when shifting between Reverse and Park on: March 29, 2014, 10:17:53 am
You could be hearing the universal joints. If the are worn, when you first move the drive shaft they will clunk. You could crawl underneath and look at each one for excess play.
89  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thermostat? on: March 29, 2014, 10:13:24 am
I had a similar problem.

See reply to my question which fixed the problem.,1615.msg12288.html#msg12288
90  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Roof top carrier on: March 22, 2014, 10:19:02 am
Paul, if you really want to carry a hard top carrier on the roof, I'd call Phoenix. I've seen other posts where Phoenix has sent owners the diagram for the roof structure so they can mount solar panels, etc. Also, there are posts from Keelhauler showing how he had Phoenix add another cross bar to the roof rack configuration so that he can carry his kayaks up there. Kermit may have suggestions for stowing gear on top. You may be able to add standard short rails and cross bars the same as you would mount on a car. Whatever you decide just remember down the road that your rig is now taller than what it originally was and may not fit under all the bridges and overhangs you could go through previously.

I am up & down on my roof all the time. It is very strong. Here is a picture of the rack I made from ridged 3/4" conduit. I attached floor flanges to the roof and made sure at least 2 of the screws went into the 1" Aluminum frame used by Phoenix. Roof sealant works well and has never leaked. In the past 20 years I have done this to 3 different RV's.

My canoe on top.

Kayak on top

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