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31  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Pleated Front Curtain on: October 23, 2014, 02:25:16 am
Seeing as those pictures went OK, my wife thought some others may also be helpful.
32  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Pleated Front Curtain on: October 23, 2014, 02:09:53 am
With the help of Bruce and Sharon, I will try and post some pictures of our new curtains.  Thanks for help Bruce and Sharon.
33  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Pleated Front Curtain on: October 22, 2014, 04:45:05 pm
To All,
     I have tried to send a picture and a couple of pictures and it always states file too large.  So if anyone would like to see the new curtains, give me an e-mail address and will send them to you.
     If anyone can tell me why I cannot send a picture out of my photo file without it being too large, would appreciate the feedback.
34  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Pleated Front Curtain on: October 20, 2014, 12:46:35 am
It was fast and relatively easy.  Remove the screws from the side wall that holds the curtain in place.  Remove the little lock on the track on each side and slide the curtain out.  Remove the hangars (they are just pinched shut and easily opened.)  Measure from the lock on the track to the center of the track (ours had a black mark at center) on each side. Ours was 57" on each side.  You will need to make the width to this measurement and perhaps a few inches more for fulness.  Make the length the same as the original curtain or whatever length you like.  I used quilt bias tape for all the edges so did not need to add extra for seam allowances. The quilt bias is wider than the usual " bias binding.  Using this will speed up the job but you can make seams all around. We bought a  leather punch from the hardware store to make the holes for the " grommets at the top and on the sides where the screws go.  Grommet kits are available with a little tool to install at Hancock Fabric and probably JoAnn's.   Camping World sells extra hangars (12 to a box) but be sure to take one hangar with you to  match up for the  same kind as in the PC.  Sew the Velcro to the middle edges of the panels; I put one strip on the side facing the RV and one on the other panel facing the windshield.  This position makes it easier to close them because they will lap over . The original curtain has one grommet every 10" but this is too far apart for material so a few more are needed to make it hang nicely. Do not make the width to the full extended size of the original curtain or you will have way too much fabric.  Once the grommets are in,  put in the hangars, pinch them closed, and reinstall in the track.  Put in the track lock and  the screws and you are done.  You won't need the long plastic rod because the material opens and closes easily by hand. I divided the total width into two uneven sizes so that the wider was on the driver side and the smaller one on the passenger side.  This meant that we could close the curtains near the steering wheel instead of dead center; that left less bulk on the passenger side to get in the way of the little "table" that is on the 2551 by the door.  If your material is real thin, you might need to add some interfacing at the top and sides for the grommets.  I used a white silky blackout material with sage green binding and it looks like it "belongs" . it is so much easier to open and close than the original.   If you have any questions, I would be happy to help.  Nancy
35  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Pleated Front Curtain on: October 19, 2014, 01:20:35 am
We finally decided we did not want to continually fold and unfold the pleated shade in the truck front windows.  Besides that hassle, the pleated material does not really block much light.  My wife went to a fabric store and bought black-out material and made non-pleated curtains.  We then punched holes in the material and installed the hangers.  Works great.  Another benefit is when driving with the sun coming in the side window you can slide the curtain forward as much as needed and block the sun which is not possible with the pleated material. 
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: October 08, 2014, 01:53:03 am
CD Wall,
     As was previously stated the first thing to check is to see if the batteries are wired correctly, 6 volt in series or 12 in parallel.  Then you need to check the solar controller that maintains the collectors power to the batteries.  Most solar systems have a controller to make sure you do not over charge the batteries and then after they are fully charged they go to a maintenance charge.  This controller, as I am familiar with, has to be set for what is being charged.  Other than that, there is no reason your solar panel should not be charging your batteries.
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2013 model 2551 12 volt batteries OK? on: October 07, 2014, 12:41:54 am
Several years back on our first PC, I had them take out the 12v batteries and replace them with the 6v golf cart type batteries.  We have  had them put in the 6v batteries on subsequent coaches.  The 6v wired in series provide the 12v's needed for the coach to operate and also provide much more useable power.  I noticed they may have changed over to all 6v batteries now. 
     The only problem I have had is opening the battery slider tray.  I finally had to disconnect some of the wires and reroute  them so the slider opens and closes easily.
On our previous PC I had a very hard time getting the tray to come out far enough to check the battery acid level.  Finally I gave a tug and it slid out.  After I was done, I could not get DC power on the coach.  I called Bobby at the Factory and He said to check the bank of fuses at the back of the battery comt.  Fuses were OK but noticed a heavy grounding cable hanging loose.  It had a bolt head in the cable eyelet and I found it had snapped off of the steel chassis frame.  It looked to have been over torqued.  Drilled a new hole, sanded the frame metal, installed a nut, bolt and lock washer and then painted the installation.  Power was back on. 
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Insulation on: October 05, 2014, 12:44:38 am
   Having had four PC's, I know there is no insulation on the sides.  The first one had no insulation so I added on the build sheet to place insulation in those areas.  When at the factory I checked a couple of finished coaches and found no insulation in that area.  It should be fairly easy to stuff some foam or fiberglass insulation behind the wall in that area.  It will really help.
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Insulation on: October 04, 2014, 12:49:52 pm
     On my first PC I noticed how warm it got in the two storage areas above the driver and passenger.  So I put my hand in behind the wall board and found no insulation, just the outside fiberglass and it was hot with the sun beating on it.  On my subsequent PC purchases (first 2552 and now the 2551) I requested PC to install insulation in that area.  For some reason they do not install insulation in that area, I believe just to be an oversight that no one follows up on.  You can get some insulation and force it in that area without too much trouble.  It really helps to keep the heat from baking those areas.
     Before it is asked, the reason we went from the first 2552, specifically made for us, to a 2551, was the gas mileage.  We were averaging 5.3 mpg on the 2552.  The Ford Dealer said that was very bad but they could not find anything wrong with the engine.  Could not afford to drive a lot at that mileage.  Our Roadtrek 210 tripled that mileage but wife wanted more room, so back to a 2551 and its mileage doubled the 2552, so there was something wrong with that engine.  We average between 9 and 10.5 mpg, not good but acceptable compared to the 5.3.  Those that claim 12+ mpg must have very good engines as I can only get 12 on the flats, with a tailwind and below 55 mph and I do not tow.
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I broke my step on I seventy six, doda doda day on: September 06, 2014, 02:50:30 pm
    Thanks, that was a very informative and helpful video. 
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 5 Star Tune on: June 06, 2014, 11:35:10 pm
Do the Ford Dealers do this or is it a private organization?
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Overhead Cabinet in Slideout on: June 05, 2014, 10:20:21 pm
A while back somebody asked about this cabinet.  On our previous 2350 and now on our 2551 we had this cabinet enlarged to 16 inches deep, same height, and what a difference it makes in usability.  I would recommend anyone ordering a unit have this done.
     Also found on the new 2551 they have changed to a quality finished material under the beds in lieu of the chip board.  A nice improvement.
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Right Mirror on: May 04, 2014, 09:29:03 pm
There are two ways I know to enhance your view  out the rear of your coach.  If your rear view mirror in the cab allows you to look through the coach and out the rear window like the 2552/2551 and 2350, you can purchase a square plastic Wide Angle Lens that clings to the rear window, is flexible and easily removed or relocated.  You can actually see when you have cleared another vehicle on passing.  One other item that allows viewing out the rear is the dash mounted back-up camera video.  On our unit with the Rand Mcnally GPS, with the touch of a tab on the radio, you can turn on the rearview camera while traveling and see a wide angle view of all traffic behind you.  The plastic wide angle lens can be purchased at most RV accessory stores and comes in three sizes.
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Right Mirror on: May 03, 2014, 08:25:59 pm
There is one other item that makes the right side harder to see around.  If you did not have the awning arms, which protrude out from the coach 4 inches, you view would be less obstructed.  Thought about not getting an awning because my area to back into beside our house is quite tight and the awning arms make it tight.  Without them it would a lot easier, but wife wants the awning.
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Right Mirror on: May 02, 2014, 12:50:38 pm
Just  for info: The mirror is moved, removed or relocated during the paint process.  When we picked up our unit I was into Chicago when I realized the mirror housing was actually moving.  I stopped and called PC and they told me about the special wrench that is in the packet.  Found it, adjusted the mirror and tightened.  No further problem.
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