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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Question on propane furnace on: October 21, 2013, 01:34:18 pm
All RV heaters are sealed combustion units.  They get their air from the outside and the exhaust goes back outside.  Look at your heater vent on the outside wall of your coach.  There are two openings, one for intake and one for exhaust.  That is the same for the hot water heater.   Although, when you are cooking on the propane stove you definitely need a window or vent open.
     Bob
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Generator won't start on: October 21, 2013, 01:24:15 pm
Be careful when removing the air cleaner and trying to start the Gen.  Many a vehicle has been destroyed when the unit back fires without the air cleaner in place.  Not only the vehicle, but the person trying to start it, has been seriously injured.
    Bob
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Winterizing on: October 20, 2013, 08:54:27 pm

































































Richeneke,
    I never put anti-freeze liquid in my fresh water system.  I first drain the fresh water tank, close the lines to the hot water heater and open its bypass.  Then remove the plug or sacrificial anode from the hot water heater allowing it to drain.  I use a plastic probe hooked to a hose and agitate inside the heater to dislodge any calcium or anode material.  Then let it drain.  There is always some water that will remain and is OK according to the heater manufacturer.  I then use an air compressor hooked to the city water hook-up to blow out all the lines in the coach and do not forget the outside shower and toilet.  If I needed to dump the holding tanks, I did that before starting this project.  I now pour RV or windshield anti-freeze into all the P traps plus an excessive amount in at least one area so some goes into the holding tank. Do the same for the toilet.  I open the gray water holding tank to allow some anti-freeze to get to the macerator pump.  Close the gray tank and put some more anti-freeze in a P trap to get to the valve.  Now the system is free of water and the P traps, dump valves and macerator have protection.
     That is how I do it and it is faster then it sounds.  I am sure there are other ways, but this works for me.
     Bob









34  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: June 12, 2013, 01:33:50 pm
Ron,
   You need to find an outfit that does a complete RV evaluation, including driving and handling.  We took ours to Henderson's in Grants Pass, Oregon.  They did a complete road performance assessment.  After driving, they returned and did a weight check of each individual tire.  Came up with LF 2300, RF 2100, LR 3850, RR 4150 and LS 6150, RS 6250 and total front 4400 and total rear 8000.  Manufactures front is 5000 and rear is 9500.  They recommended front and rear tire pressure of 70 psi.  This was on our E-450.  They also did an alignment check as it was way off.  We added  front and rear anti-sway bars, rear trac-bar and a steering stabilizer.  Made a world of difference. 
   Just for info,
       Bob
35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: rain entering my 2552 on: June 01, 2013, 02:10:46 pm
jmosier,
    Make sure the knob that secures the arm on the awning is not overly tight.  That sounds like why that arm needed help to extend.
 The wire from the antenna has a rubber boot around it.  It snaps over the opening where it goes into the coach. I found that boot pops off when the antenna is raised.  I cleaned the area with alcohol and silicone sealed it so the boot can not come loose.  That is a possible leak area, but it should be noticeable inside the coach.

      Bob
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cruise control on: May 18, 2013, 12:22:57 pm
Larry,
   Did you resolve your electrical problem?  If so, what did you find and what was the fix?  Good info for others that could run into the same problem.
    Thanks,  Bob
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cruise control on: May 13, 2013, 11:38:06 pm
Lflood,
    The factory more than likely has the answer.  When they take apart the dash and tie in to the chassis system, they probably have a wire that is loose or came disconnected.  The horn, cruise and air bag system are probably in the same wire harness.  I would look under the dash at the wires coming from the steering wheel and see if there is a loose connector.  This is just a quick possible fix.  Good luck.
    Bob
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Shower Pan on: February 25, 2013, 10:11:04 pm
Carol,
    If you would send me your e-mail address, I will send you pictures of our towel holders we put in both our 2350 and 2552.  They are inside the shower area and are out of the way. Our e-mail is bnhickey@gmail.com.  When I try to send them from our computer memory on the Forum,  our whole 10000 pictures transmit.
     Bob
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Heat Strip or Furnace on: February 16, 2013, 02:08:19 pm
Carol,
    We have two 6 volt golf cart type batteries and when not hooked up to electricity we use the propane furnace for heat.  We have been in temps. in the twenties overnight and have yet to drain our batteries.  We carry with us a 1500 watt electric heater to use when connected to electricity.  As stated by others, it is much quieter than the heat strip system.  
    We thought about designing an insulated curtain that could be hung from the overhead at the junction of the cab to coach.  The cab area is the major source of cold air with all the glass.  If you could isolate the cab I would think you would cut your cold air/heating problems.
    Bob
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizing my 2010 2551, need adivce on: February 12, 2013, 12:32:33 pm
Deposits build up in hot water heaters and can cause problems if not removed.  I found a plastic nozzle at an RV store you hook to your hose.  The nozzle has a small opening and when inserted in the water heater drain plug opening, it stirs up this debris and helps flush it out.  I do this at the end of the season prior to storage. 
    Bob
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Baby Seat on: February 08, 2013, 02:11:36 pm
Joey D,
    We started this third car seat installed behind the passenger seat.  We wanted the seat for our granddaughter so we could put her car seat there.  PC installed the third seat in our 2350, but after a short time we decided we did not like the corner bed.  So, back to PC about trading for a 2551.  But Kermit said not enough room to install the third car seat.  So, what is the option?   The option was the evolution of the 2552 by extending the coach by one foot just so we could have the third car seat.  What other manufacturer would go to this extreme for customer?   They also installed the heavy duty "D" rings, we provided, on the floor, front and rear of the seat so you can hook up the tether from the baby seat. There are no latching rings as are on most cars.  You have to use the seat belt system on the baby seat and most baby seats provide instructions on how to secure them.  With ours, the granddaughter is well secured in her seat and she can watch children videos on the TV with the inverter on.  Hope this helps.
       Bob
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Are you my big brother??? on: February 06, 2013, 01:30:45 pm
No offense, but if you have a Atec 322 why would you need a motorhome?  That is one high performing aircraft and a beauty of aerodynamic design.  Even better it appears they must have a hanger and airport on their property.  That is the best of both worlds.  We always said, if we could make our cars and motorhomes as aerodynamically efficient as the sailplanes we flew, we could save a lot of gas.  Enjoy.
    Bob
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: January 30, 2013, 01:05:37 pm
Aimee,
   The new PC website is outstanding.  What a fantastic job you did.
      Bob
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Need advice on traveling south from Inidana on: January 20, 2013, 11:49:48 pm
Maybe I am the only one that does this, but because we use our coach all winter, I blow out the lines.  Hook up a compressor to the water inlet and let air blow all the water out of all the lines.  Because I do this the unit is ready to be used whenever necessary.  The hot water heater manufacturer says to remove the drain plug and drain as much as possible, but there will be half a gallon or so remaining and that is OK.  Not to worry about freezing as there is plenty of room for expansion.  If the manufacturer feels this is acceptable then it must be safe.  I had PC install shutoff valves inside the coach for the outside shower.  Once the lines are blown out I shut these valves so I do not have to worry about water getting to the shower in the winter.
     A local RV repairman told me to not waste money on the RV Antifreeze(Pink stuff).  Buy windshield washer fluid for use in the winter.  It is less expensive and protects below zero.  Do not use it in your fresh water system, but use it in your P traps, holding tanks and your macerator pump. 
     If you are going to stay in the coach on the way South, you will have heat in the coach all the time, so why not fill your water tank and use it, we do.  You have heated black and gray water tanks and with a gallon of antifreeze I don't see a chance of freezing.  We are in North Idaho and use our coach all winter.
    Have a nice trip South.
      Bob 
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: white switch on the dash on: January 16, 2013, 02:28:11 pm
I had a dead battery on our 2552.  Dead meaning it did not have enough power to turn the engine over.  I held the switch for about five minutes and then released it and there was enough transfer of power to the chassis battery to start the engine.  I like the idea of having a switch you do not need to hold.  In aviation we have switches to be used for emergency use with a cover that when closed goes automatically to the off position.  I think that would be a good safety item for this switch.
   Bob
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