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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: vibration in driveline on: July 18, 2014, 10:30:26 am
Skipper.....thank you very much for outlining my options and approaches.  I will do exactly what you have outlined prior to going to Ford.  I hope the same equipment that your were able to untilize is available here!    ths.
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / vibration in driveline on: July 16, 2014, 02:47:11 pm
I read all of Skippers  past posts regarding driveline vibration and what he went thru to get to a good ending very interesting. It appears that I have the same vibration in my 2012 3100.  I had a vibration before the Michelin recall and thought perhaps one of the tires had thrown a weight or something.  New Michelins were put on in Feb. and I have now had them reballanced twice and the vibration is still with me!  Seems to be worse in that 62 MPH range.   I guess i will contact Ford and get ready for the dealer run around and finger pointing as to who's responsibility it will be to correct the problem.  Will keep you posted.
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: TOWING- cargo trailer on: June 24, 2014, 12:32:19 pm
Sparky....You should have no problem pulling that size trailer.   You will need a 2" ball that will slip into the reciever on the back of your PC.  You will need and adapter that will go from the seven lug  round plug on your PC to a four lug plug that U-Haul uses usually on their trailers.  All can be gotten at WalMart for like $35...$9.00 for the plug adapter, $24 for the Reese ball mount and the ballance for the 2" plug.  While you can back up I would not waste my time attempting such action since it will be tricky without being able to see out and using the camera, IMO!  Good luck should be clear sailing.
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis on: June 23, 2014, 09:41:31 am
All good points that I can not disagree with.  The bottom line is the E series is suppsoe to be gone within 5 years and the replacement Ford chassis has a GCVW less than a Sprinter.  I do not see Ford getting out of the RV business so I see no option other than the F series since there is no sign that the pickup business is slowing down.   The F series would allow longer coaches to be built on them, more cab room, better ride, quite.  While we all may like the E-series I am afraid it has reached the end of its road.   Ths.
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / New chassis on: June 20, 2014, 03:50:21 pm
I am observing several  manafacturers utilizing the Ford F-450 and 550 chassis's and wonder what Kermit and PC might be up to?!  The new Ford chassis that is suppose to at some time replace the E series will not carry the loads we all carry.   Would love to see a new PC model based on the "F" chassis!
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: valve extenders and tire pressure monitoring system on: June 03, 2014, 09:49:33 am
I have had flexible extenders on several motorhomes with zero issues. But... i just had the Michelin recall done (Feb.) and found both inner tires flat one morning post the new tires being installed.  I  figured they were just poorly installed and really put the pliers onto them.  One has held air but the other one has subsequently gone flat again.  I have ordered new more expensive extenders to see how they work.   It is a real pain without them so need to install something. 
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Bumper on: June 03, 2014, 09:40:15 am
Very attarctive to say the least!!!  Would love to see image from the back!
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: wireless toad lights on: May 13, 2014, 03:41:16 pm
The new Roadmaster base plates do not utilize slide in recievers and pins (had on my 2002 Liberty) or the later style (2006 Liberty) that had the twist style, the new one still twists but simply has a small spring loaded catch pin that is much easier to deal with.  And like I said previously a large ring has been brought out to the front of the plate for cable hitch up.  Nice that improvments are consatntly being made.
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: wireless toad lights on: May 13, 2014, 11:01:17 am
Ron D......Oh my lord ...I totally missed  those little devils hanging down..you are as safe as you can be and Roadmaster would be proud of you...I stand corrected.  Thanks, Ron
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: wireless toad lights on: May 13, 2014, 09:33:47 am
Ron D.....your set up is the exact same one i have utilized on my last two Liberty's and will use on my new Cherokee! That is excluding the wiring since i have selected to go wireless this time around.  While you have everything technically correct I notice one oversite IMO....I was told by Roadmaster that the safety cables should run all the way back to the base plates on the vehicle and therefore should not be terminated where yours are.  This protects in the case that there is failure in either of the "push in and twist" components  .  I have run small cables from where you terminated yours back to the holes on the base plate connected to the chassis utilizing high strenth connectors to accomplish what Roadmaster recommends. The new base plates I just got from Roadmaster have  and improved set up compared to the old set up (yours) in that there now are new large eyes that are right out front on the base plate recievers and very handy to hook the cables to and bypasses completely the termination hole you have chosen to use.   Just my two cents but if you think about it makes sense to hook directly to the chassis.  thanks
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: wireless toad lights on: May 12, 2014, 10:24:29 am
2 frazz.. and others:

Obviously, there are some trade offs with the wireless appraoch in that there really are no wires running to the toad (other than the Brake Buddy break away set up and that carries no power) and all of the wireless light functions run off a standard four blade plug.  with some rework I am sure you could re-engineer easily and tap into the live wire feed from the seven lug PC plug and run a wire to the toad for your break buddy.  i have never had a problem with my toad battery going dead so think I am OK with the lights operating in basic format...taillights, brake lights, blinkers and four way.  Not sure this wirelss approach is the right one and I may be back drilling holes to place bulb sockets in the taillights like I have done in the past.  I am some what optimistic that  the amount of toad pulling i do I think this approach may just be right.  Will keep you posted.

12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: wireless toad lights on: May 09, 2014, 09:56:32 am
There are several manafacturers that make wireless light bars and individual wireless lights.  Wreckers have been using such set ups for several years.  i ordered the cheapest set up by Blazar Manafacturing that ran $129.00.  Units can go up to over $600 offering more durability, etc.  The lights afix to the vehicle with 90 lb rated magnets, and each light takes 4 double A batteries.  the transmitter utilizes a four blade plug and I simply use the PC's 7 lug plug with and adapter that goes to a regular 4 blade.  You merely plug the very samll transmitter in and then situate it  somehere (hitch/steel) that allows for the signal to get to the back of the toad vehicle, I think the signal will go like 50'.  The lights are LED, very bright and all fuctuions have atleast this far worked flawlessly.  what is nice  is I can use the lights on my utility trailler, etc. as well.   I did order some DiamondShield material that I cut into 5" circles and placed each on the roof of the Cherokee, the lights have a padded material over the magnets but I know dirt and movement will get under and i did not want any scratching.   Tractor Supply, AWDirect, and others all have wireless light products.  i think I should have spent a little more money and actaully gotten a light bar that would have absoutely no wires flapping around between the two light bases.  I really like the idea of no corrosions, cutting in to the tail light housing, etc.   Time will tell.   thanks
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / wireless toad lights on: May 08, 2014, 08:28:29 pm
Just getting my new Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk ready to be towed behind the PC.  Just got Roadmaster base plates installed and the Jeep appears to be nearly 2"s lower at the tow bar connection compared to the Liberty.  2" riser made tow bar dead level from coach to vehicle.  With all of the new tech stuff I had some reservations about cutting into the lights so went with new wireless lights and they appear to work great.  Transmitter attaches (magnet) to the hitch and turn the switch on and the lights will work for up to 16 hours on the 8 double A's.  Time will tell!
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Right Mirror on: May 02, 2014, 11:43:30 am
Jim....Loosen those set screws or you will crack the housing! 
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Why PC? on: April 16, 2014, 12:41:36 pm
olyboots:
Not much more i can add for the above mentioned comments reflect my feelings 100%.  Having owned several  (7) other RV's from big to small and all from the "big boys" (Monaco in particular) none of them came close to the  PC's for quality of construction.  With both of my PC's I have had next to nothing in regards to issues and trust me I had many issues with other brands.  Having the Ford chassis is a huge plus.  As I am sure you are well aware many RV's can look very nice on the outside but structual make up leaves alot to desire, just check out PC's marine plywood floor vs's strand board in many.  best of luck.
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