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241  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: If You Could, What Would You Do Differnet? on: April 28, 2011, 09:32:28 am
Very good thread with some great idea/suggestions...here are a few from my perspective

-More insulation in the cab area, the carpet needs some padding, should be sound mats put in the doors.
-Remote door locks standard with the coach door on the remote as well.
-Doors to get into the under the bed storage area vs's lifting the bed.
-Insulation of the step box, alot of cold and road noise comes from that area.
-There needs to be and outside edge piece put on to keep the twin bed mattress from moving away from the wall.
-Larger fresh water drain, the 3/8" just takes way to long.
-The exterior compartment locks need to be of better quality.
-Armrests on front seats need to be adjustable as one reclines.
-Wind sensor awning would be nice.
-Larger refrigerator option


all in all very nice coaches.
242  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: If You Could, What Would You Do Differnet? on: April 27, 2011, 12:18:23 pm
I had a 2009 Monaco Covina (25') Sprinter based unit for a short period of time; I loved the look of the coach and I am a huge fan of the M-B 3.0L that is one sweet engine and what my wife has in her Grand Cherokee and it is a superb vehicle and very quite on the road.  I found the Sprinter's engine noise intolerable on the road,  you could not  carry on a conversation at 65MPH. I would get blown all over the highway from trucks and cross winds  I never broke 15MPG.  I could not tow my Jeep Liberty diesel (4300 lbs.), I called Monaco because other manafacturers rate the chassis to tow more than 3500 lbs but Monaco (I do not usually agree with anything Monaco says, but in this case i think they were dead on!)! said the chassis just will not tolerate that kind of towed weight.  The E-450 is tighter in the cab area but the brakes, handling, and the power to tow puts the Sprinter to shame in my book.  Perhaps with a smaller coach (like a PC) on  the Sprinter chassis it  would handle better vs's the higher Covina?  In my book the Ford hands down despite how thirsty they are.
243  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A small problem on: April 14, 2011, 10:25:24 am
There is a spray cleaner that you can get at HD or Lowe's for cleaning counter tops that works great.  I have all so used a very mild rubbing compound (fit for clear coat finishes) that worked very well in getting minor scratches out and I am sure oil/greese stains.  The counter top dealer suggested that to me.  best of luck.
244  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 25, 2011, 01:26:08 pm
Billy:

I think you have put the pieces together; the wheel issue was stated with a "wink of the eye", as they are my local dealer and always treat me very well. You are right, the wheel has nothing to do with the alighment...but
245  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 25, 2011, 11:40:29 am
Ron and others.....Only one of the 6 Ford dealers said they would even attempt to put the front end work thru on warranty and they "thought" we "might" have a chance because the steerring wheel was not straignt across when the front wheels were straight.  Not sure how this warranty work all works but it might be how the work gets coded as to how they get paid (or not paid) for the work!  Again, atleast on the day I called Ford the manager was very firm that they did not cover any front end work on motor homes that was the manfacturers responsibility.  I am sure the manfacturers have another opinion!
246  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 25, 2011, 09:47:32 am
I have the same "light" front end  feeling on my 2010 E-450 2551 that everyone is speaking about.  I just took it in for and alignment at a heavy duty truck center and it was off some but not as much as I would have expected.  The improvement is very small if any.  I went (called) to 6 different Ford dealership in my area (50 mile radius) 3 of which were certified Ford heavy duty truck dealers and none of them would do a front end alignment on the coach.   I did lodge a complaint with Ford as to the difficulty I was having before I took the coach to the non-Ford truck shop and paid the $125 out of my pocket.  Subsequent calls to Ford headquarters proved very interesting.  Front end alignments are NOT done free or under warranty period.   The cut away chassis's come out of the factory in Ohio and go direclty to the coach builders.  Because the factory does 
not know  what kind of coach will be placed on the chassis and what the weight distribution will be it would be impossible for them to alighn the front ends properly.   It is the responsibility of the coach builder to have the chassis alighned after all fabrication work has be done and before the coach is delivered to the customer. I do not know if PC does this or not but I can guess?   Out of Ford's "customer good will" budget my $125 bill is being covered becasue of the problems I had dealing with the multiple dealers, not because the front end was out  This explanation came from the Ford Motor Home Customer Service manager.
247  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: extending roof rack on: March 21, 2011, 12:41:24 pm
A nice option that i have seen but have yet to purcahse is the RVRaxx (www.rvraxx.com), made here in Manchester, NH,.....you can carry two of the "shortie" kayaks in a vertical set up as well as there is the capability to still tow a toad with the hitch adapter that you can buy as well (you loose approx. 25% of the orginal hitch towing capacity).   The  entire  set up is a little pricey but the quality is superb and it is a neat concept with the many acc. you can get to go on the base rack frame system.  Check it out.    Thanks
248  Main Forum / General Discussion / Metal on metal rattle on: March 15, 2011, 02:23:39 pm
Since day one I have had a a real metal on metal rattle right over the drivers seat in my 2010 2551.  The rattle would come and go but always drove me crazy when I heard it.  I went up thru the two spot lights in the cab, got no where there.  got my fist thru the electric boxes on the right side front cabinet and fished around enough to find out there is no insulation in the nose cone at all  and several wires (12-2) run across that section, I fished some insulation in there to stop the wires from jumping around but I new I had not found my rattle.  I finally decided to remove the TV (very easy) to get a clearer view of the front cab over area even if that meant removing the paneling that runs accross behind the TV (never had to).  There is a speaker mounted for the surround sound system right below the TV in between the headliner and the base of the TV cabnet.  I was able to peak in there thru the opening to see the cut-away roof potion and the metal cross memeber that runs across the front of the roof above the windshield.  Sure enough, there was a strip of about 1/2" wide by 10" of cut steel from when the "cutaway" roof was cut that was hitting the cross memeber and giving me that metal on metal "springy" sound; it was and still is attached to what was left of the roof section and was merely the by-product of the saw process  I am sure .  I got a long screw driver and bent the piece up, back and away from any metal and the rattle has now been eliminated.   Thanks 
249  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Roof cracks on: March 15, 2011, 10:15:47 am
JDW:


I feel your pain fella and wish there was something we all could do to help the cause; one issue at a time seems to be the best plan!   As far as the  pins go for the ladder...any good hardware store would have replacements or atleast bolts with nuts that would  get you onto the roof and on the road!  I would agree with the last post that bending the back of the latch a little will help in the locking of the bulkhead doors, I would remove the catch vs's attempting to bend it while it is on/in the door section.  Rust is going to happen when you have steel, water, air and road salt, I have purcahsed a spray rust preventer that I got at a large truck equipment dealer, the stuff is used on plow trucks, etc where there is heavy use of chemicals.  The stuff (forgot the name) is very expensive ($12.00 per can) but works great and last for a very long time.  I hit all bare metal under the coach and it stops rust from developing,  the stuff is extra heavy duty and not what you get at WalMart.  The door panel with a bubble is very weird and most likely needs to be re-painted at some point.  It does appear that perhaps PC is getting into the busy season and pushing the units out  faster than they should?
250  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: What Portable Gas Grill Do You Carry Along? on: March 11, 2011, 06:40:10 pm
Hands down the  Webber Baby Q is the best grille there is for RV'ing!!  Webber is a superb company that stands 100% behind their products.  I have called them looking for replacement parts and they have actually told me that my grille was still under warranty and have sent me my new parts free of charge.  Made in America to boot!
251  Main Forum / General Discussion / Brake Buddy on: March 09, 2011, 10:46:39 am
Good morning:


I have been having some issues with my Brake Buddy blowing  fuses in my Jeep Liberty.  The Jeep checked out OK according to Jeep so I contacted BB for their input.....just wanted to share with all of you how very nice it was to speak with someone who is pleasant, knows his/her product, and was extremely helpful!  Sure makes you want to buy amercian anytime you can.  Gary at BB stated that they have many issues with Jeep's and the change in  amperage at the power outlets that will cause fuse blowing, of course, there may be and issue with the BB unit and all I would have to do is send it back to them and they will fix it for free; he is sending me a direct wire kit from battery to the BB unit to try  first to see if that fixes the problem....what is weird is I can cycle the unit a dozen times just sitting and no problem with fuses blowing, it just happens when rolling.  Brake Buddy gets my vote for being a great company that backs their product 150% and is based in good old Kansas.   Thanks
252  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote Entry Locks Using Key Fobs - Buy Them & Program Them Yourself on: February 02, 2011, 09:17:04 pm
Folks:

I would be very careful ordering fobs from E-Bay or some of the other companies on the web...I did it once and the fobs  I got were badly used and one did not work...many come from stolen or wrecked vehicles; not exactly the way I like to do business.  Thanks
253  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote Entry Locks Using Key Fobs - Buy Them & Program Them Yourself on: February 02, 2011, 09:08:20 pm
Good evening Gents:
 
I have gone thru the entire programing process as described in the Ford manual with the two fobs that I purchased from Ford and the process did not work (locks did not lock/unlock) and for that reason I took the vehicle to Ford; they did the same sequence as I did and got nothing; they then used their scan tool and again got nothing.  At that point they gave up. As I stated in previous posts my vehicles line sheet  did state no remote module installed.  I would recommend that you request from Ford the line sheet for your vehicles since it does have a lot of good info.   
 I have no answers at this point as to why my particular vehicle was spected as it was but it was.  I am sure someone who trully knows how to add the module and program it can make it all work.  In Elkhart I am sure there are Ford techs floating around that know what to do and how to do it.  before I purchased any fobs I would certainly check to see if your chassis has the module installed or not?  My Ford dealer was nice and took the fobs back with no questions asked.  Thanks
254  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote lock update on: January 31, 2011, 08:27:46 pm
Thanks for you feedback Bob.  I does seem very weird that there can not be some  kind of "plug and program" approach if someone new what they were doing.  I think I will make another  call to Kermit and or Ford to see what can be done.   Thanks
255  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear vs. side storage areas (2350 model) on: January 31, 2011, 02:41:58 pm
Glenn:

Here in NH I use the ladder a fair amount to clear snow from the roof so it does come in handy vs's getting the step ladder out,  but i agree with you 100% that it is a pain to pull the pins, etc so what i did was to merely cut approx. 12" of foam pipe insulation and placed two (2) pieces over the ladder side rails (top section)  where the bottom piece folds up and hits the top portion; the faom keeps the two pieces from scratching  one another ... I use two nylon straps with slip buckles and just torx the bottom piece up to the top and away you go.  Hope this helps?
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