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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Soundproofing the cab on: June 20, 2016, 08:43:35 am
That is a tough question to be honest Pax.  The insulation in the doors really quiets the noise coming from passing cars/trucks.  Where I see the biggest improvement is when the vehicle down shifts you do not hear that real roar, it is deadened considerably.  I guess I would say the floor insulation and the doghouse work would be where I would start.   There is a lot of heat that comes up thru that uninsulated floor and of course noise.   The worse aspect is fighting the dog house, I really took time to make sure the gasket made up to the floor correctly and it is a pain because you can not see anything in behind so  must feel your way.  The company's I ordered the kits from were super and the orders came very fast.  Having the pre cut carpet from PC ($61.00) made life very easy, I would not have tried to custom cut carpet, I have tried before and it is and art that I do not have.  While it is a PIA to do everything I can now say there is nothing else I can possibly do to make the cab area any quieter.   I do think I will tackle the front cap  wing areas because I know there is next to zero insulation in those areas and a lot of wind noise comes from them.  Will keep you posted.
On another note,  I found a nice little mouse nest built right in between the "V" of the engine way back under the doghouse.  I do not know why it never ignited!  You all might want to check for such a situation if you live in and area that is prone to field mice!  Thanks, Ron G.
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Soundproofing the cab on: June 19, 2016, 06:46:20 pm
I have never been overly pleased with what I consider to be excess noise in the E-450 cab so I decided to see what I could do to make the cab somewhat more enjoyable.  I insulated the hood with a great selfsticking product from DEI Engineering, their hood thermal acoustic lining looks nice installed and does in fact deaden the tinny sound of the hood.  Next I stripped the doors down and used a product from Eastwood industries, I used their heavy XMatt product that is suppose to reduce noise by approx. 18 decibels,  it sure made the doors closing sound far more solid.  While I was in the door panel I replaced the stock (weak) Ford speakers with  a set of Infinity's,  they sound superb and are exactly the same shape/size as the Ford speakers.  I then turned to the floor.....capt. seats came out, ripped out the  PC stuck down carpet, ordered a new piece of ready cut carpet from Carol at PC.  I ordered a great ready cut kit from QuietrideSolutions, the kit includes  floor insulation as well as  strips and squares of Dynamat material that are strategically placed on the floor as detailed in their instructions.  Ironically, the insulation had the Ford  logo on the packaging and a Ford part number. After putting the Dynamat down the foil sided (one side) insulation is spray glued in place over the Dynamat.  All seams and edges are sealed with tin foil stick tape.  The new carpet went down slick and I again glued it down in strategic  places so it will not move around at all.  The biggest pain was the dog house removal/putting back.  Once out of the vehicle you remove the Ford insulation.  I then installed another ready to install insulation package from Quietride Solutions, the three pieces are all pre cut and fit perfectly.   The new insulation is spray glued in place and then the Ford formed insulation goes back in place right over the newly installed insulation.  I can honestly say that I have reduced cab noise by approx. 45%, my wife, the hardest judge agrees with me.  Total job ran me  $516.00, not cheap, and two days of my labor but I am very pleased.  One has to wonder why PC does not offer a package of extra insulation from the factory?  Another project done!
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cracked shower pan on 2350 on: June 09, 2016, 01:30:25 pm
What Ron D. is referencing is the use of plaster of paris by plumbers under shower pans.  They place a large "blob" of the stuff and then push the pan into it.  They say you cannot use joint compound it must be plaster of paris.  I really do not think that approach would be a good idea in a rolling house!   Foam insulation would be my recommendation and I am not sure that will actually work all that hot either.   Thanks, Ron G.
34  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: How Much Are You Towing on: June 05, 2016, 02:37:22 pm
the new Jeep Renegade can be towed but only models equipped with the smaller of the two engines that allows for  standard shift.  The lager engine only comes with the new 9 speed automatic and can not be towed four down.  The Cherokee has the same transmission but has a different PTO setup that does allow it to be towed.  Thanks, Ron G.
35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cherokee Trailhawk Recall on: June 03, 2016, 08:31:03 pm
had the new harness installed today on the TH.  Took the tech approx. 2 hours to install.  installation included removing the center console.  I now have a nice red safety switch tucked in by the power plug in the console bin.   there is strict instructions as to how to activate the steering pump otherwise you will set of a ton of dash lights including the check engine light.  when the parts guy secured the harness there were only 3 in the entire country so if you want one I would place your order before your base 3/36000 runs out or it will cost you several hundred dollars.   thanks, Ron G.
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: How Much Are You Towing on: June 03, 2016, 08:22:56 pm
I tow my Cherokee Trailhawk behind my 3100S with no problems.  It tows much better compared to my Liberty diesel that was a very heavy little bird at about 4500 lbs.  for the record I just had the new wire harness installed on the TH today.  This is the recall/TSB for front end warble.  Technician said it was a pain, the switch is in the console and has a nice safety switch.  You do have to follow a  sequence or you will set the check engine light, etc. off according to the instructions.
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pros and Cons of Insulated Glass and Rear Ladder/roof rack on: June 02, 2016, 02:39:51 pm
I would vote a big "yes" on Tom's approach....scrap the roof rack and keep the ladder.  It is a pain clearing snow, etc with the rack in place.  I honestly did not think of separating the two....
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New PC 2552 Pickup on: June 02, 2016, 02:37:06 pm
Congrats on your purchase.   I live over 1000 miles from the factory and have had two new PC's.  My first PC a 2551 had a few (3 to be exact) issues that did need factory attention, had some blemishes in the exterior skin, I drove the coach out and negotiated having it delivered back to me.  My 3100S has had zero issues and has never been back to the factory in the four years that I have owned it.  Yes, there will be some little things wrong but I would honestly be optimistic that the items that are PC's responsibility will not give you any trouble.  All of the appliances both large and small can be serviced at any authorized dealer locally and really have nothing to do with PC.  If there is a major leak or what ever you are going to know after your first night in the coach.  Kermit is good  about authorizing any repair work to be done locally and he then cuts a check to you.  Compared to other manufacturer's PC does a very decent job putting their coaches together and more importantly standing behind what they build.  Best of luck!   Ron G.
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Pros and Cons of Insulated Glass and Rear Ladder/roof rack on: June 01, 2016, 09:24:01 pm
IMO dual pain windows are worth the money just for the quite they bring to the coach.  You do not have to worry about weight (over) in a 2350 as long as you go with the E-450.   no opinion on the central vac system, seems like a little over kill.  I like a ladder just so I can have access to the roof if needed.
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Flat towing on: May 19, 2016, 08:59:40 am
One would have to wonder if the CRV is not experiencing the exact same issue as the Cherokee in that the electric power steering pump (I assume the CRV has a similar electric activated pump) is not activated and therefore there is not any resistance on the power steering rack and the wheels are kind of in a "free state" and the suction of the trucks passing is creating a vacuum that is allowing the wheels to wobble  and that is being passed thru to the coach chassis.  Just a thought.
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Cherokee Trailhawk Recall on: May 17, 2016, 01:42:15 pm
I have yet to have any issues with my Trailhawk being towed but I am going to have the new wire harness installed.   The harness is back ordered with no idea when they will be manufactured so do not expect to show up at the dealer and have the recall done.  Yes, you do have to have the optional upgrade II designation to pull any Cherokee, trust me you would not get very far towing if the vehicle only had the base four wheel drive system, a few hundred yards most likely would be it!!!.  The purpose for the hot wire to the battery is to keep the battery charged so that a full charge can be maintained to keep the power steering pump activated to keep pressure on the steering system so when you hit a bad bump it does not set the wheels wobbling.  Jeep does not like to just waste money so I ma sure this recall is justified and for the safety of the consumer.
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Question About Toad Hookup on: April 27, 2016, 09:40:36 am
JoeyD and others:

Jeep is addressing the Cherokee (all of them regardless of engine size) RV toad wobble issue by issuing a new TSB...# 08-029-16, the "fix" wiring harness part number is 68321424AA.  It appears that Jeep is picking up the cost of the harness ($125.00) and the labor to install it. The harness supplies power to  the power steering unit so the steering system always has pressure on it, it does not now.  There is a nice looking switch with a cover that is installed in the console area.  There appears to be and inline fuse under the hood that they suggest you pull when you are not towing the Jeep.  Regardless if you have had trouble or not I think it is prudent to have it installed for some of the videos that I have seen the wobble is violent and is dangerous.   I am having mine updated despite the fact I have not noticed any wobble yet.  Just got clearance from Jeep dealer that as long as vehicle is still in 3 year/36000 mile warranty they will cover all parts and labor to install new harness.  The issue is the harness is back ordered with no idea when they will be in stock!Best of luck.
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Question About Toad Hookup on: April 23, 2016, 08:25:36 pm
JoeyD........the Trailhawk is not as easy as the Liberty or Wrangler to prepare to tow but it is not all that   bad just a couple extra steps.  I have a Grand Cherokee as well as the Cherokee but I get the Cherokee unlike yougents.  Odomater does not chock up miles while towing, ingnition is off.
44  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Question About Toad Hookup on: April 23, 2016, 05:06:32 pm
JoeyD....I tow a Trailhawk behind my 3100 and it tows much better than by Liberty did.  I use a Roadmaster 2" riser adapter to bring the Trailhawk within 3" of dead level.  You realy want the entire hook up to be level.  Many pulling Trailhawks have had significant issues with violent front end shimmying when going over rough roads.  Jeep has a new kit that keeps power going to the power steering unit so that there is constant pressure on the front end.  The kit cost $125 not sure if they will send it out free or not?  Best of luck with rig and car.  Ron G.
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Topper rattle on: April 19, 2016, 09:39:13 am
Since nearly new I have had a significant rattle in my 2012 3100.  Despite my endless efforts I can not isolate it to anything but the slide topper.  The rattle is very loud and comes from the top section of the slide and when I close the drivers door I can hear the spring rattle so I am 90% sure that is where everything originates from, on rough roads it is really loud.  I called Kermit and he suggested I just hit the slide button (out) to hopefully place a little tension on the spring, no change.  I took the coach to a local dealer since I have noticed the slide  seems to be somewhat off center in the opening (can see like 1/2" more coach wall trim on the right side vs's left side when facing the slide from outside), I'm wondering if one side of the topper might be taking more of the load and the other side is getting looser as the slide walks to the left more over time?  Dealer claimed the slide was installed off center in the opening and he could not center it with out significant work that he was not willing to tackle. I have been told that there is not much adjustment on the topper spring in that if you tighten it to much you risk ripping the fabric when fully extended?  Planning to take to another dealer soon to see what if perhaps the topper spring is broken or can be adjusted some, rattle is driving me insane!   Would love to hear from anyone else who might have a rattling topper?  Does seem to be common if you look on the web...Thanks
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