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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Brake wiring on: April 26, 2015, 09:28:13 pm
Diodes are most commonly used in tail lights wired for towing.  To be honest, the only other method I know of are the "extra" lights you attach to the tow vehicle with magnets.
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 25, 2015, 05:33:58 pm
Paul, Thanks for sharing your results.

I concluded nearly the same with our rig, though 5 more psi up front.  I don't think our conclusions would be a perfect match because our 2350 is a 2007 with a softer front suspension along with not having a 400 pound slide out.  Considering those differences, I think we agree.

With regards to thread wear, with around 27000 miles to date, our back tires are wearing perfectly.  Our fronts are wearing evenly inside to outside, but we have a slight chafing or scalloped thing going on.  Because it is relatively minor and evenly formed across the threads, I really am not concerned.  By the time it gets serious, the tires will be replaced due to age.

Strange tire wear can happen from a few long driving days if the conditions are right.  For example, you can ruin your front tires just from driving across the Great Plains during a very consistent strong cross wind the entire time.  Turning your steering wheel to compensate puts excessive wear on the outside of one front tire, and the inside of the other.

By some people's standards, our 8 year old tires are already too old, but I want to get at least another 4, pending their thread and side-wall condition.  The rig is always stored in a dark garage so they stay fairly well preserved.

It's good to know we are in line with each other with tire pressure.  Thanks Again!
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: new coach finally here!! on: April 23, 2015, 10:33:32 pm
Congratulations from me too.
4  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 22, 2015, 12:46:29 pm
The conversion to gravity and back to Sani-Con seems quite easy to do, based on the removal of my macerator.

To get started, I had removed the macerator from the in-between adapter section to a standard 4-prong-locking 3" pipe connection.  The adapter should be easily removable to add a 12" extension with end cap for easy forward-facing gravity dumping.
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: April 21, 2015, 02:49:41 pm
Looking at your plumbing, I wonder if long braided stainless hoses would be more effective at reducing the noise.  Since you have so much plumbing already, two coiled braided stainless hoses would feel right at home.  I would use the ones sold for laundry machine hook-up, but shorter than pictured.
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 21, 2015, 10:19:33 am
Where I volunteer as an auto mechanic, I deal with o-rings on tire sensors.  They do "pancake", permanently deformed in a compressed state.  I wished we had a good stash of o-rings as I feel they should be replaced every time the sensor is disturbed.  The problem becomes serious when salt damage lifts the clear coat or paint around the valve stem hole.  The area then needs to be stripped flat down to bare metal and the o-ring replaced for it's most likely got deformed from the swelling of corrosion.

Though I don't usually see steel valve stems. I would imagine they have similar concerns.  Then adding the matter of the tire pressures on our PCs being twice that of a typical car.
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: April 20, 2015, 10:22:08 pm
In our 2007 2350, I installed a 2 gallon pressure tank.  I used a standard house-hold braided stainless steel water line (similar to the kind used for a faucet) for the connection between the high pressure side of the water pump and the pressure tank.  The pump noise changed from a loud groan to a quiet hum because the vibration of the pump could not transfer to the RV plumbing.

Here is a picture of my primitive installation.  I am not proud of it, but it does work extremely well.  Unfortunately you don't see the braided stainless steel line between pump and tank for it is behind them.

Now that I know better, I would have installed THIS ONE for $105 plus cost of shipping, and cleanly mount the pump on top to gain a little more outdoor storage compartment space.

8  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 18, 2015, 10:58:33 am
Interesting!  It seems effective and useful at an RV camp site with hook-ups.

For us it wouldn't get much use because we near exclusively use dump stations where speed is important because of others waiting.  The Sanicon is very clean to handle, quick to setup, a very friendly means at dump stations, assuming I am not flushing the tanks.
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 18, 2015, 10:19:44 am
Paul, I think you have a very good plan, adjusting along the way.
10  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 04:40:29 pm
You are very welcome Bob, Carol, and Mike.
11  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 10:40:13 am
Never, in my wildest dreams--well, maybe only there--could I attempt to do something like that.
Carol, read through my added Tips & Tricks at the bottom of my initial post.  If you can use these tools with any degree of control, you can modify the new pump and then hand it to any handyman for the installation.  You only need to make sure your old pump looks like my old pump.

Use this to cut off the long inlet tube.

Use this afterward to make smooth clean edges

Use this to drill the hole at the end of the motor

Use one of these to seal the hole you just drillled

It's that easy.
12  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 07:43:57 am
You mentioned you might use the stand that came with the Seaflow to mount the pump rather than the original strap.  I'd be interested in know how it turns out if you do.  That has been on my to-do list for a while (reducing the macerator noise).
Hi Mike, I added the Tips and Tricks comments.  Read through that.  I don't recommend using the stand.

I too would like to reduce macerator pump noise of which a new pump all by itself will help a lot.  I am planning on mounting and running the pump temporarily without the motor attached to the rig and see what is learned.  Then install a good strap and include a large soft rubber pad in between pump & strap and then compare.  I suspect the majority of macerator pump noise is transmitted through the waste plumbing and not the mounting strap, but maybe I will be surprised.

I will report my findings.
13  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 12:42:27 am
Our 8 year old Sanicon macerator pump failed due to a broken bolt getting lodged inside which damaged the grinder and also broke off a couple of internal black plastic impeller blades.
Notice one of the 4 bolts is missing.  It is placed on the side.

I priced a new Sanicon pump.  Phoenix and Thetford sell them for around $450.  I did find someone else selling one for $379.

On Ebay, a number of sellers offer a Seaflo pump that is a very close copy to my Sanicon.  They cost around $58 including shipping.
Don't get confused as I was at first.  The pictures on Ebay here shows the Seaflo pipe flanges with large lips that appear as stubby stops.  Those are just protective rubber shipping caps.

With the protective shipping caps removed, the pump looks like this.

I bought a Seaflo pump for $58 and it arrived just 3 days later.  Here are my old Sanicon and new Seaflo pumps side by side for comparison.

I disassembled both pumps to find the inlet components to be an identical match.  Since my old inlet was still in perfect condition, I reused it.

If you determine that your original Sanicon inlet component is damaged, you can easily saw the extra plastic off the new one to create a very close working copy.

For the curious, here are the two grinders.  The new Seaflow blades resemble a kitchen blender.  One Sanicon blade is folded over, damaged from grinding the broken bolt.  Both types are very strong, bendable only with good plyers.  The Seaflow blades have a sharp edge on them for effective grinding.  The Sanicon blades might have been sharp some time ago, but are surely dull 8 years later.

The new Seaflo pump did not have a screwdriver feature as did the Sanicon for freeing up a jammed pump, but upon opening it, it did have a slot in the end of the motor shaft so I drilled a 3/8" hole in the end cap to access the slot, just like the original Sanicon.

Limited water will get inside through the screwdriver hole in both pumps, so a weep hole in the bottom of the motor case becomes critical.  The two holes from the screws of the new pump stand make a great pair of weep holes.

I intentionally drilled the screwdriver hole in my new pump smaller to reduce water potential and offer a nice surface for a stick-on pad to seal the opening.

Not Shown: When done, I capped the hole with a nice stick-on-pad to protect the inside of the motor.

Water did get inside and damage my old Sanicon bearings.  They spin as noisy as old roller skates.

I assembled the Sanicon inlet component to the Seaflow pump for a perfect replacement at a fraction of the cost.
To further demonstrate component-compatibility, I assembled the leftover parts on the original Sanicon pump.

The Seaflo pump came with a mounting stand but I determined it best NOT to use it.  The holes from the stand screws make great weep holes.


Now for the Tips & Tricks.

I had to disassemble everything to determine compatibility and such.  But that is now learned.  I recommend you DO NOT disassemble anything at all with the new pump.  Simply cut off the inlet nozzle to resemble the Sanicon, and drill the hole on the opposite end for the screw driver.  Use common sense and care when drilling and cutting.  The most important thing to watch out for would be plastic debris getting inside the pump.  While cutting and drilling, I advise to setup yourself with a vacuum cleaner over the inlet and in the work area around the screw driver hole.  Once done, continue vacuuming anything that might have fallen inside.

I suggest this because it is tricky to reassemble an opened pump.  The 3 sections (motor, pump, and grinder), plates and gaskets all need to be in perfect alignment when assembling.  Just behind the grinder plate, there is an odd shaped plate that must "seat" exactly proper inside a slight indent.  That is very easy to miss.  To avoid all that inconvenience and detail, I advise DO NOT loosen any bolts.  Just cut-vacuum, drill-vacuum, and be done.  Very simple, very fast, risk-free, completed in just 10 minutes.

I initially thought I would use the stand to mount the pump, but it would require reassembling the pump with the motor case 180 degrees, and then I would need to drill a weep hole.  With the stand off, the two mounting screw holes become weep holes face down.  Taking the pump apart again was a deterrent.

One final suggestion.  The pump bolts require a 5/16" thin wall socket.  I suggest you make sure the bolts are tightened up.  When loosening mine during disassembly, they were almost loose.

Closing point:  My original Sanicon is 8 years old.  That company was bought by Thetford around 4 years ago.  It is conceivable the pump in recent years could be different than the pump made by the original company.  Before buying a new pump, I advise to first remove your original pump to see if it looks like my old pump.
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 16, 2015, 07:06:59 pm
Technically, not enough to matter.  Basically the same benefits as a car, alloy wheels versus steel with wheel covers.

In order of importance to me.
 - A Nicer More Quality Apperance (especially considering my full body paint job)
- Reduced Unsprung Weight (takes bumps & holes better, and improves handling)
- Better Balance & True-Spin (reduced vibration)

If you look close at 18 wheelers, all cross country rigs have alloy wheels on the front for steering & handling, and most have them on the rest of the tractor.  Trailer wheels are steel unless owned by the trucker.

I really don't feel a PC will benefit much.  I just like the idea of having alloy wheels like my other vehicles have.
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 16, 2015, 10:24:07 am
Tom, The sticker PC-USA placed on my rig states 65f/60r, I assume because of the weight ratio verses quantity of tires.  So I maintain that relationship.
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