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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Really? on: March 26, 2017, 05:35:42 pm
May I share my experience with the kitchen mirror adjacent to the stove?

That mirror was offered a year or two after our 2007 model year so we did not have that mirror.  I really liked the idea of having one for the extra lighting and easy-clean surface from food-splash.  I later was able to work out getting a mirror from Phoenix.  I glued it on just as Phoenix instructed, but the dang thing fell off the first time I drove the motor home in the neighborhood.  I had properly prepared the wall and the backside of the mirror, and I glued it with a slight gap to the counter top so any counter top movement while driving would not make contact with the mirror.  I was able to removed the adhesive off the wall with great difficulty and patience without damage to the wall and left enough alone.  I eventually damaged the mirror where I was storing it at home so that is the end of my mirror experience.

I really did appreciate the lighting it offered, reflecting the light from the hood, and it opened up the appearance of the RV's interior.  I loved that mirror if only for a moment.

catsaplenty, I am sorry for your experience, but if I could have told you while you were there, I would have said to have Phoenix put the mirror back on.  It really is a nice feature to have......as long as it stays on the wall.  Smile
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 26, 2017, 09:41:55 am
Quote
Whether a Liberty or other button-controlled vehicle, being an electronic push button, make sure it stays in neutral when the engine is shut off and the steering wheel is unlocked for towing.  Who knows how it was designed.
For the Liberty the information came from a number of people who have been towing them for years, so I feel comfortable that the system used there works.

For other brands / models, yes, the owner manual is the only source to trust when buying.
Great!  It sounds like the 2nd gen Liberty will tow well.
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: RainX Quantum Wipers on: March 26, 2017, 09:24:25 am
I believe the factory size Ford E-Series wiper blade length is 20".  If you want to use a longer blade to clean more glass, you risk having the wiper blade skip or squeak across the windshield.  The spring in the wiper arm presses the blade to the windshield only so hard.  My experience with low-end wiper blades even at the proper length, some are fine but some skip or squeak.  Maybe you can get by with longer Rain-X Quantum blades.

If you want to extend the life of your old blades instead of replacing them, you can do what the used-car-lot people do.  Clean the blades with lacquer thinner and observe how much oxidized rubber is removed.  Use one clean lacquer-soaked tissue with every wipe.  If the blades are not too far gone, they will work fine again.  Understandably so, vehicles kept outside all the time will surely go through wiper blades much faster than garage-kept vehicles.

Our garage-kept 2014 Nissan Altima has special blades that cost a lot.  The car is 3.5 years old now yet still has it's original blades because I have cleaned them once so far that way.  Eventually I will need to buy new blades, but I seem to be doubling their life with that trick.
4  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Cargo Carrier on a 2400 on: March 25, 2017, 05:50:36 pm
A number of motor home owners, especially those with shorter rigs, resort to one of those types of carriers.  My brother has one for his 22 foot long Starflyte.  I have teased him that he suffers from 2-foot-itis.  He really likes his hitch carrier.  He did find a water-tight storage tote, a "Rubbermaid" type-of thing that fit it quite well.  He holds it down with bunge cords.  He also has a large zippered water-tight bag.  I don't know which is his favorite.
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 25, 2017, 03:04:58 pm
One thing I did find out is that later Jeep Liberty's do not have the mechanical lever transfer case like you said, but they do have a push button that puts the transfer case in neutral.  So while I, like you, would prefer a mechanical lever they can be towed using the push button to put the transfer case in neutral.  Assuming the correct engine / transmission combination of course.
Whether a Liberty or other button-controlled vehicle, being an electronic push button, make sure it stays in neutral when the engine is shut off and the steering wheel is unlocked for towing.  Who knows how it was designed.  Maybe when you shut off the engine and it starts to roll, it jumps back into a gear so the vehicle does not run away when parked.  There so many safeguards in vehicles these days.  A soft copy of the 2nd generation Liberty owners manual might be available on-line.  See if you can find it and read about how that neutral position works.
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 25, 2017, 07:52:08 am
Hi jatrax,

You sound like me in 2007.  The subject of tow vehicles had me dizzy, and I think back then it was more straight forward.  These days many 4WD and 4x4 types have a convenient dash-mounted electrical switch for the driver to select 4WD high and low, and some don't have a neutral position like the old days when the vehicle had a separate gear shift lever.  Our Jeep Liberty has such a mechanical lever.  When I put that lever in neutral and the transmission in park, all is well.  The automatic transmission is prevented from spinning so it is protected while being towed.

Back in 2007 with exception of all Saturns and other sprinkled brand models it seemed that if you had an automatic transmission, you needed to have a gear transfer case with a neutral position, just like our Liberty has.  Of coarse 99.99% of the vehicles sold with automatic transmissions back then didn't have a gear transfer case so they were ruled out.  People with most front wheel drive auto-trans vehicles got around it by using a tow dolly.  A rare few people with rear wheel drive auto-trans vehicles that stood tall actually went as far as removing the drive shaft to tow their vehicle with all wheels on the ground.  People sought after manual transmission vehicles with tow bar brackets offered.

A few vehicles in 2007, but many vehicles following 2007, automatic transmission vehicles were able to be towed with all wheels on the ground, but every few hundred miles, you need to start and warm up the tow vehicle and then go through all the gears a number of times while holding the brake pedal.  It seems most recently, the auto manufactures state that if you tow their vehicle all-wheels-down, it voids their warranty.

Now-a-days, many vehicles have push-button start so there is no key to mechanically unlock the steering wheel.  Some vehicles, the gear shift lever is actually an electronic devise, not mechanical, so putting the transmission in neutral, it might not stay that way when the car is turned off and being towed.  Today's high technology adds more complexity in vehicle choices, hence more research required to determine how (or if) it works when being towed.

There are a few websites out there with charts to show which vehicles are okay to tow with all wheels on the ground.  If I were looking for a tow vehicle today, I would seek those charts but not solely rely on them.  I would also seek available tow bar brackets from the towing hardware suppliers like Blue Ox and Roadmaster.  I would be most confident with a vehicle like our Liberty with a mechanically controlled gear transfer case.

In this picture of a 1st generation Jeep Liberty 2002-2007, you can see the gear transfer case shift lever to the left of the transmission gear shift lever.  It resembles a parking brake lever.  If you look close, you can see a diagram on it that explains each position.  That lever shown here all the way down is in normal rear well drive.

7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 24, 2017, 10:35:19 am
Doneworking/Paul,

I almost made the same mistake you did, using the standard length blue safety cables.  I initially installed them but they looked concerning, so I went on-line and found sets of cables sold at longer lengths, bought a pair one foot longer and all was well.

There is one other matter worth mentioning when towing.....the clearance between the tow vehicle's front bumper and the PC's rear bumper when making sharp turns.  Depending on the style of the tow vehicle and not using a hitch riser/adapter, they might make contact.  When we were towing our Liberty the bad way with the angled tow bar, during initial testing, when cutting the PC into a sharp turn like is often done in a gas station, the corner of the Liberty's front bumper almost touched the PC's rear bumper.  If we had a Wrangler with a more squared-off bumper, I think I would have body damage.  Adding the hitch riser/adapter not only made the tow bar level, but it set the Liberty one foot farther away from the PC.  It still gets close but not so concerning.  One thing certain....never try to back up even a few inches if you are already in a tight turn for you will jack-knife the two vehicles, crushing each other.

We first towed a 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, a low set car which did not need a hitch riser/adapter.  The front bumper of that car is curved, therefore there was no worry about the two vehicles making contact during tight turns.

It could be that different tow bars are different lengths.  Our Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar has this matter.  It would be a good idea to ask about different length tow bars, for "Longer is better".
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing calculations on: March 23, 2017, 05:46:21 am
jatrax,

You can safely tow a vehicle (with contents) up to 5000 pounds, but people like to use their tow vehicle as a storage trailer so be watchful about the extra weigh you add.

The actual tow bar weight placed on the hitch receiver is under 35 pounds, likely less, so no significant weight is added there.

You might find THIS post interesting.
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizeing on: March 19, 2017, 09:22:53 pm
It was actually the roof of a golf cart behind my head.  It did look like a rod going through my skull  Smile

The new picture, Irene took of me at home 4 weeks ago, used on my contractor's badge.  I am back working at the company that retired me.  It seems the company sent too much engineering work to Malaysia too quickly.  3 weeks to-date and some weeks to a few months more and I'll be retired again.   My earnings will make for some "extra" traveling money.  My mindset is so much better, still giving the job my all, but it works so well in my head.  I can't wait to get back into retirement for so many reasons, but especially to get back to watching our 20 month old grand daughter on Fridays.  That has been hardest on me.

Okay, sorry for the change in the topic here.  Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizeing on: March 19, 2017, 07:45:29 pm
In place of RV antifreeze in the traps you can use windshield washer fluid. It is generally cheaper and you still get protection down to -20. If you are using RV antifreeze in the lines, you are already putting some in the traps. Just saying.
I did not think of that, but it sounds like a great substitute.  Is there any concern that the -20 blue or -35 purple windshield washer fluid will stain an RV sink?

Around where we live, we have Menard's home improvement centers.  I have seen in the fall, Menard's will sometimes run a sale where the RV pink anti-freeze is free after rebate.....something for some of you to watch out for.
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dewinterizeing on: March 19, 2017, 04:27:01 pm
One thing I do a bit different is add the bleach "First" into the fresh water tank, then fill to capacity with fresh water, to the point the solution is shooting out the vent hole.  This way the bleach gets well stirred-in and I maximize the submersion of bleach on the inner walls of the tank.

I realize you hope the driving will splash the solution high enough, but I prefer to flood it up as high as possible.  I do like your idea of driving around and do some quick left/right maneuvers to slosh it higher yet.  That surely would be most effective at full coverage.  With a full tank dripping out the vent hole, just be careful of the bleach solution leaking and then getting air born hitting people and cars around you.  Maybe drive slow down the center of your street in your neighborhood with nothing around to get hit.  I have a stretch of road in my neighborhood perfect for that.
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Every little bit of storage counts on: March 18, 2017, 02:55:23 pm
I agree with you Paul,

Phoenix's rear wall with integrated spare tire and storage compartment are exceptional.  Of coarse there is always room for improvement, but I am not complaining one tiny bit.  Still, I'd like to share my thoughts for improvement.

1) The spare tire compartment designed such that it could be utilized for either a spare tire or a pair of zero gravity chairs.
2) The lock for the spare tire key'd the same as the rest used elsewhere on the PC.

I re-key'd that lock to match the others.  I also re-key'd the deadbolt lock to match the regular lock on the main entry door.  So I carry 3 keys now instead of 5.  Unlocking the entry door is so much easier now.
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Mold Under Clear Sealant on: March 17, 2017, 10:21:20 pm
Our 10 year old Diamond Shield is fine as it should be considering our PC is stored indoors.  One problem I have with the Diamond Shield is that a certain type of honey colored bug juice stains it.  I have tried everything I thought of to get the stains off but no luck yet.  Fortunately it's a small unpopular bug so the stains are few.
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Every little bit of storage counts on: March 17, 2017, 10:13:44 pm
I keep an old XL "T" shirt inside that tube figuring if I ever need to change the tire, it will come in handy either to wear to stay clean, or to use as a rag.

I used to keep my indoor/outdoor clock-thermometer transmitter inside the rag, but was inconvenient when changing the transmitter batteries.  I since keep the transmitter inside the rear storage compartment in the holster it came with.

Hey Carol, I gave you a "Neighborly" to hit the Helpful Rating 100 mark.  Congratulations!
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: First night camping on: March 13, 2017, 06:59:09 pm
What I am about to share won't help with a valve stem issue, but since we are talking "tire pumps".....

Some years back now, I bought a Slime brand compact tire repair kit from Walmart which includes a small 12V tire pump.  I bring it along on every trip.  It stays in the tow vehicle to support both vehicles in an emergency roadside on-vehicle tire repair.  I have never used the kit in any fashion.  I really should try the pump and see if it will work well enough to get me out of a pinch.  In the case of the motor home, a plug-repair is not something I would consider a permanent solution, but hope would work well enough to address the repair properly at the next practical opportunity.

Here is the Slime tire repair kit.  7-8 years ago, it cost me around $60.  I think they are still sold today.  I don't endorse it, only because I have never used it.  One thing certain, it is very compact and offers me peace-of-mind.


Ron... and all

Those tire repair kits are NOT recommended anymore.  In fact, tire places are not permitted to use them anymore.

The only permitted way to repair a tubeless tire by DOT is a patch on the inside.  The "plug" style repairs damage the (usually steel) belts in a tire and can cause them to fail, resulting is a true blowout and/or total failure of the tire.
I did not know that DOT does not permit the use of a plug, but I can believe it.  If you are not careful, the steel belts can be damaged from the repair.

Where I volunteer, we still use plugs, but there is a real trick about it.  If not done right, you can bugger up the tire pretty well.  It's all about the screw or nail that made the puncture in the first place.  You have to be very careful to pay attention to the angle at which the debris is removed, and insert the plug at that same angle to follow the puncture.  You don't want to create a second puncture and questionable steel belts.  A nail that gets bent up when forced into the tire, plugging them comes with risk.  At the same time, if you saw the tires we patch, you'd say "the tire has bigger problems".  We'll patch bald tires most often to buy the owner the time it takes til their next paycheck.

With our PCs, I don't suggest to plug a tire and consider it a done deal.  But rather as a substitute for messing with the spare (or if you don't carry a spare).  This all of coarse assuming it is a clean puncture and you know what you are doing with the repair process.
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