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1  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jack and/or lug wrench on: March 28, 2015, 07:59:59 pm
Yep, that's a good idea, just let Phoenix get you the right tire iron, lug wrench, or whatever you call it.
2  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jack and/or lug wrench on: March 27, 2015, 05:33:50 pm
If you have not yet done so, look in the spare tire compartment.  If it fits, it might be in the center tube wrapped with a rag to prevent it from rattling around.

Like others have said, PC supplies a generic 6 ton bottle jack that is not supplied by Ford.  But I do believe the tire iron is a "Ford" item.

I would also carry a 3/4" x 2-3 foot water pipe to extend the tire iron for leverage.

I used our PC issued bottle jack one time when rolling off our Lynx Leveling blocks.  The Lynx wedge flipped up and got jammed between the exhaust tail pipe and the stack of blocks.  Jacking up the rear tire provided the solution.  That happened in Death Valley in that gravel parking lot where you can park overnight to sleep, located in the middle of nowhere.
3  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: March 25, 2015, 03:12:10 pm

1. I feel insulated (double pane) windows are worth the price.

3. In reviewing the forum, I have not found much conversation regarding the quality of P.C.'s full body paint. Pictures can be deceptive regarding a good quality paint process.
Your feedback and opinions will be appreciated.
Happy Motoring
Johnny & Kathey
We have the thermal glass and love it for sound, heat, and cold, and they are effective in all three categories so I "Do" recommend them.

We have the full body paint job and it is now 8 years old.  Keep in-mind our rig stays in a garage when not on trips so I can't say how it holds up from the sun constantly beating on it.  The quality of the paint work is excellent when considering what they are painting.  The different colors meet each other perfectly with clean lines.  You can feel a very smooth clean edge where colors meet but ever so little.  The materials painted vary so the sheen varies.  Some steel, some plastic, some fiberglass, some caulk.  They paint over every irregular surface including seam work.  I don't know how they do it, but it's all aligned from one surface to another so well like a laser beam was involved.  It won't be the finish of a new Chevy, but dang good looking.  There is a little over-spray here and there but very acceptable to me.  Keep in-mind the paint work is only outside.  If you open any door, the jamb will be plain white, including the cab area.  The same for storage compartment jambs, gas door, and other things.  Over the years as our rig has bounced many thousands of miles, the caulk in the seam work flexes ever-so-slightly that there is some fractured paint there.  It is not flaking or loose, and is not gaudy least not yet.  You'll notice it only if looking for it.

I was very happy to get the full body paint job back then and 8 years later, still feel the same about it.  It looks real sharp.  Back in 2007, I got the paint job 1/3 off the regular price which made the choice easy.

Eight years and counting and no regrets here.

I always thought that even plain white, it would be worth doing.  Paint the RV portion to match the plain white cab up front.  That will keep real easy for cleaning & waxing, and no fading of plastic and such.  White to match the cab white would look most "Production" like, and likely would hold up the best with the sun.  I would think plain white would be significantly cheaper too given the cab is left alone, and no change and details with the different colors either.
4  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC Quick Look on: March 25, 2015, 01:40:01 pm
Ford says they will keep making the E Series cutaways for as long as there is a market for them.   Only the actual Econoline vans will no longer produced.

I would imagine this to be true, but as the tooling gets worn and demand drops, those two factors in combination could prematurely end E350/E450 cut-away production.  It seems the motor home industry could revert back to the 70's, forced to offer smaller B+/C rigs than currently offered.

I grew up in Chicago in the 70's with our neighbor's motor home always parked across the street.  It was built on a long step van, I assume because the cut-away back then could not handle the weight.  The typical class C back then were all made very short, most common on the Dodge, but some on Fords and Chevys too.  Then came the tag axle to make them longer.  Eventually the industry migrated into what we have today, soon to revert back due to fuel economy.
5  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Factory Purchasing Experience on: March 23, 2015, 06:28:39 pm
Thank You Jim
6  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Factory Purchasing Experience on: March 23, 2015, 09:15:48 am
What a testimony to the company that makes the rig we own.

I ask for your permission to copy your post (without your names) as a new post or as a reply on another RV forum.
7  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: TV Placement and Angle on: March 19, 2015, 12:41:15 pm
If I were to order a 2552 with couch-in-slide-out, I would research how big a TV could be mounted on the 2-surface wall behind the passenger seat by the Euro chair, mounted on an angle toward the couch utilizing both straight and angled walls.

But for my personal taste,  I would rather order a 2552 with a no-slide-out dinette and keep the TV centered as currently offered.
8  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: buying from factory on: March 10, 2015, 04:11:22 pm
Yes, I like that idea of the fridge vent on the side like slide-ins.....good point.

About "any" antenna.  Because we typically camp in remote areas, anything short of satellite technology isn't going to serve us.  The few times we are in or close enough with line-of-sight to an actual town, we'd stay in an RV park of which all offer cable TV.  That works well for us given we have a CATV box outside our rig, as easy to tap as our 30 amp power cord.

When in our usual places where broadcast TV is never available, we have our DVD collection for such entertainment.
9  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: buying from factory on: March 10, 2015, 02:18:17 pm
I personally loved special ordering exactly what we wanted, and just as important, NOT getting what we did not want, primarily no slide out and not mounting the roof rack or ladder.  If I had to do it over again, I would delete the Winegard roof top antenna and also the Fantastic fan in the bedroom area for the fan is too close to us when sleeping.  One fan in the bathroom is more than enough though I would make that one the Fantastic fan.  I'd also add a small pass-thru vent in the wall between bath and bedroom so the bath fan would draw air from the rest of the interior when the bath door is closed.  I just don't value two fans in our 2350.  Along with a deleted antenna, the roof would clean up beautifully offering a lot of possibilities for solar panels for people considering them.

That Winegard antenna of ours is 99% useless to us where we stay, where we camp, and the caulking required for it is ridiculous.
10  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: buying from factory on: March 10, 2015, 03:32:54 am
Check the quality of the build before you settle on any brand, don't base your decision on price alone. The bitterness of poor quality will last much longer than the sweetness of a low price.
11  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 10, 2015, 03:31:15 am
The original twin bulb fluorescent fixtures in our 2007 rig, I had taken one un-tampered fixture into the lab here at work where an electrical engineer measured the power to be 9 watts.  My LED conversion dropped the power down to 6 watts, but the light output is way too much.  I think I can cut the wattage in half again to 3 watts when reducing the brightness by disabling every-other 3-LED circuit.  3 watts per fixture would be real nice to achieve.  But the right brightness takes priority over power savings.
12  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: March 08, 2015, 06:25:25 pm
Just throwing this option out there for you.

Model 2351 can be ordered with the rear corner bed one foot longer by deleting the pantry in between stove & bed.  You will gain that much more outdoor storage along with the foot longer bed.  Also, I believe you can special order the double bed a bit narrower.  You delete the bed-side window and have a wall of cabinets at the same depth as the current overhead cabinet on that wall.  That is something to consider if always sleeping alone and you seek piles of extra indoor storage.  For resale purposes, have the  extra cabinetry removable.  A window can always be added by the next buyer.

Just keep in-mind that the length of a 2351 shown here starts to get a bit long at 24'-11".

Here is the 2350 for comparison which is 23'-8" long.
13  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: March 08, 2015, 01:14:01 pm
You are 6'-2" tall?  With hiking shoes on, you will likely hit your head on the a/c and lighting.  Don't buy sight unseen for that reason.  You need to size yourself up.  Every PC has the same ceiling concerns.
14  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: March 08, 2015, 01:43:57 am
Hi Greg/Lakedog,

I think the 2100 is a very efficient rig.  I personally would do it up differently to utilize the interior better.   I also feel the smaller V8 E350 engine offers enough power for it's size and weight.  I think the 2100 is ideal for a single person, but will work with two as long as you are real careful in what you bring.  I see pictures of 2100s with hitch mounted storage compartments which I feel defeats the purpose.  At that point, I would buy a 2350 and have plenty of indoor & outdoor storage and also a full time double bed and bigger capacities.  A 2350 is more suited for full timing for a multitude of reasons.  But if you travel lightly, the 2100 will be quite the rig for best mobility.
15  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing on: March 05, 2015, 03:08:22 pm
Hi Dave,

Just click on the "HERE" in my message above to get to the project, actually the entire research project.  Once I get the lighting brightness nailed down, I will write it up in the Tips & Tricks section in organized fashion.  Reading that thread is difficult even for me to follow.  Smile  But it's all I have right now.

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