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1441  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water in outside rear compartment on: March 10, 2014, 04:15:18 pm
You are the first person I ever heard of who went from a 2552 to a 2350, actually anything larger down to a 2350.  I am curious as to why the change and what chassis you had chosen, E350, E450, or Sprinter.
1442  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Roof top carrier on: March 10, 2014, 12:24:25 pm
We don't, but if we ever needed extra storage when not towing, that seems a great way to gain it.  I would assume you wouldn't fill it up with heavy items like fire wood for example.  I also assume it would be wise to use a Quiet Hitch to stabilize it.
1443  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Decisions Decisions on: March 05, 2014, 04:35:54 pm
Rich,

Everyone is making excellent points.  I'll add a few of my own.

When shopping for our replacement motor home in 2006/2007, I was attracted to a local RV tent sale.  There I seen a brand new short class A with an inviting $59,000 sticker on the window.  It looked sharp from a distance, but then I stepped inside.  Put plainly, it was put together very poorly and with cheap materials.  I could see it wouldn't hold up to the beating of being driven for lots of miles.  Another strange phenomena was that I could not breathe inside it.  I actually felt faint and had to leave before I passed out.  There was an outgassing of chemicals from the construction process that had me getting dizzy.  Maybe it was from the particle board formaldehyde or adhesives or something else, or a bunch of chemical outgassing in combination.  One thing for sure, I couldn't buy that rig if I wanted to.  I'd die inside it.

Around that time, a family member had us sleep inside his 5th wheel.  That too had a similar odor and effect on me.  It was an older trailer which I had assumed much of such chemical outgassing was over with, but such remnants had me wake up with a splitting headache the next morning even though we had the windows open all night.

We've had no such chemical outgassing issues with our PC.

Another matter all together different.   Unlike the masses here and abroad, my wife and I don't value a slide out simply to gain more open floor space.  The extra cost to purchase, the extra 400 pounds per slide out, the extra mechanical complexity & seals with age will become a liability, the loss of interior storage, the cold heat noise bug and wind driven rain infiltrations, all combined doesn't justify the benefit. We also highly value the dinette (with memory foam cushions) which cannot be installed in many of the PC slide outs.  It does help to have our 3rd captain seat for a place to kick back and relax, today that is a Euro chair.  If you feel as we do, a no-slide out is an option for you to consider.

The only other benefit to a slide out would be for resale benefits as most people are initially attracted to them when shopping for a motor home.  They look impressive when opened up inside.....great eye candy.

I do need to include here that we travel without children or dogs.  If we had more bodies inside, I'd think the extra floor space would be of great value to us.  But for just the two of us, ordering our rig with a slide out would be regretful.  We elected to spend that money on a full body paint job which we like very much.

You can view our 2350 with no slide out by clicking on my orange ron.dittmer name, then my website.
1444  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Starting engine with house battery on: March 05, 2014, 03:41:39 pm
With our older 2007 PC2350, the only way I can assure the batteries won't drain during storage, is to disconnect them.  I disconnect only the ground terminal, leaving the red power terminal connected.  I do this for both the chassis battery and the twin coach batteries.  If you do it, just make sure the batteries are fully charged before disconnecting them.  It helps in preventing the batteries from freezing.
1445  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: DW missing Class A on our new lot on: March 03, 2014, 06:35:23 pm
I agree.  Changes in life are often a very good reason to be changing rigs.

For us, we will be keeping our PC2350 as long as we stay in our house.  One day many years away, if or when we sell our house, we will likely include the PC in the sale as long as it helps in making a deal.  After all, the PC is one of a few decent motor homes that fits in the garage with 2 other bays for regular vehicles.
1446  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Newbies on: March 03, 2014, 06:23:36 pm
I too say "WELCOME" to the PC family here.
1447  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: House Batteries for 2008 2551 on: March 03, 2014, 12:22:36 am
Everyone has their own idea as to what is best in regards to cost versus benefit.

A year ago I replaced the original Ford chassis battery with a sealed Sears AGM at a steep price of around $200 on sale.  Time will tell if it was worth the cost.  

Our coach batteries are Walmart MAXX now near 6 years old and are still performing well.  They cost near $100 each.  I think today they are $6 higher per battery.

Battery life is greatly extended by disconnecting them (must be fully charged) when the rig is not in use....while in storage.  I was real good doing that with our first rig and the batteries all lasted over 10 years each.  I've gotten back into that routine just this past year with our PC.

ADDING ON February 2016
Since I posted this reply, the trip we took later in 2014, one battery failed which caused boil-overs.  Thinking about it, I really should have taken that bad battery offline and finish the trip with one house battery.  Off season between 2014 & 2015, I replaced the batteries again, now on the 3rd set (2nd replacement set), this time with two-6V sealed AGM batteries.  Our 4 week trip in 2015 with them worked perfect as expected.  As the years pass, I will see if they were worth the extra investment.

The chassis battery replacement Sears AGM is doing it's job well.

We have been 100% AGM for a year now.
1448  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: February 19, 2014, 06:32:11 pm
Thanks Ron and Tom,

I have a thin margin on the Jeep. I believe the manual transmission 4 door Rubicon is 4521 lbs. Adding the tow bar, after market bumper, bike rack and bikes will be pushing things a bit. Maybe I'll have to throw the Jeep's spare tire in the PC and tow with the top and doors removed to save a few pounds!


Personally I wouldn't bother even if over by a tad.  Just be sure to get a smart tow brake system along the lines you are thinking and you'll do fine with everything stored in their normal places.  There is no weight in or on the motor home that way.  It's all being pulled.  Go easy as you normally would towing, with great tow brakes all will be fine.

And that is only my opinion.
1449  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Actual length of our 2552 on: February 19, 2014, 05:34:04 pm
I never measured my 2350.

I do park the RV pulling forward until gently impacting a 2" foam block (my bumper) then back off 1" before setting the parking brake.  Judging the distance from the spare tire cover to my garage door, I think it's right on the money.
1450  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Actual length of our 2552 on: February 19, 2014, 01:13:57 pm
Ron you should look at the brochure for both the 2551 and the 2552. They both are listed at 26' 5".

 If you look back a few post you will see where I measured my 2552 to confirm what Bruce found.
Ah......Maybe the 2552 is consistently at 28'-4".  That is quite a bit longer than the 2551, much more than the "proclaimed" foot.  As you say, the on-line documentation needs correcting.

Like you mentioned, it would be good to confirm the exact height.

I wonder if the 2008-2014s are a bit taller than the 2007s and older.  Maybe the additional weight capability of the chassis adds a little more height.

I can say that my old 2007 (empty) is true height of 9'-10" because it clears my garage door opening by the 1-1/4" difference.  I can get more clearance when the water tank is full and all our stuff is loaded to go on a trip.
1451  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Actual length of our 2552 on: February 19, 2014, 12:03:43 pm
Boy is that an interesting and alarming find.  PC-USA needs to confirm this.  Either Bruce & Sharon got a unique 2552 or all 2552s are made longer than spec'd.  If so, all documentation and websites need to be corrected.

If that were the case with our 2350, I'd be in a pickle.  Fortunately spec'd dimensions are true to reality.  But that was back in 2007.  Who knows what little dimensional adjustments are happening from year to year.
1452  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: February 19, 2014, 11:51:03 am
Bside60,

Welcome to the PC family.  So you decided to get a 2350 on steroids.  If (I should say "When") you have questions of any kind, this is the place to ask them.  Safe travels!
1453  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 31" TV? on: February 17, 2014, 02:00:49 pm
The bigger the TV, the better, as long as it fits properly.  Many of the newest TVs have a very small frame, some frameless from the front view so you get a lot more screen in the same physical size.  That's sweet.  They are thinner too.  If our 26" ever goes dead, I'll be looking into one of those.  Our 26" is a very nice size for us, but bigger yet is better yet.

Look at the wide plastic frame on our Samsung here.  That black plastic is now screen space on the new TVs.
1454  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 31" TV? on: February 13, 2014, 01:06:04 pm
Thanks Mike.  Good data there that I can compare the power consumption of my old set against.

To all of you with the new 32" sets mentioned.....How is the "Rattling" factor?  Does your set rattle or make vibrating noises from the road?  Our older TV did from all the sheet metal work inside the TV.  I ended up opening the back of the TV, placing felt pads in strategic places to prevent the sheet metal from resonating.  It's been quiet since.  I should have done that right away.  Years later, I've finally been able to drive in peace.  Oh, also adding the same chair foot felt pads to the roof top antenna too.  No more banging from up there.

Noises can be hard to track down and resolve.  One more recent resolution was coming from our microwave oven.  The front mounting screws became loose from the miles.  I tightened them up and all is quiet there too.  It's an on-going thing.  Another recently developing banging noise was coming from the front cabinets.  Per PC instructions, I screwed the base of the front cabinets into the Ford roof and that irritation is no longer.  You can read about that one here:  http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,1526.0.html

Sorry to change topic from TVs to noises.
1455  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 31" TV? on: February 13, 2014, 08:34:25 am
How thick is that 32" Samsung?  How stable is the TV when you are on the open road?  Does it move around a lot?  After a 2 hour movie, when you put your hand above it, is the area very warm?

I ask because our 7 year old 26" Samsung is the older thicker florescent back-lit type.  The TV gets hot up top that it was a bit concerning for the life of the TV.  I ended up installing a 5" computer style fan behind the TV to circulate the air in back which did resolve my heat problem.

What bothers me is that heat = power and I was wondering if the new thin TVs run cooler.  That would help with battery reserves.  When we boondock, we most often will watch TV in our bedroom on our little 19" with built-in DVD player.  The batteries hold up much better that way.
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