Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 98 99 [100] 101 102 ... 197
1486  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: To tow or not to tow. That is the question. on: July 22, 2013, 02:28:13 pm
I would just say make sure the tow bar is within 3" of being level between the Ford and the Honda, you do not want the Honda riding up or going under the chassis (alot of leverage on that tow bar that can act as a lever and push hard).
Oh yes, it is very important that the tow bar be as level as you can get it.  The steeper the angle the worse the bucking.  I call it the steam locomotive effect between the steam piston and the drive wheel.  With that bar uneven, when the motor home or the tow vehicle hits a bump, the bar pushes & pulls with a quick jerk creating that bucking effect.  With the bar level, there is none.  It is a matter of physics.

Our Jeep Liberty shown in that 1st picture is "BAD" because the bar is at a significant angle, low to the motor home, up to the tow vehicle.  I have since bought a riser but have yet to try it out.

This picture shows the angle of which we had some serious bucking.  The Quiet Hitch hardware helped immensely, but masks the real problem.
1487  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: To tow or not to tow. That is the question. on: July 22, 2013, 07:54:57 am
If you think you'd like to tow on a trip to Alaska, don't.  Alaska is a trip on the move.  You won't be setting up base camp for days at a time which is where a tow vehicle comes in handy.  Then there are the ferry charges...by the inch.  You'll regret towing up there unless you tow an off road vehicle with plans for true adventure.
Ron, I would never have thought to not tow a car up there. I had plans of parking in a place for a few nights while exploring the NP and the local area. I have heard some horror stories of getting there and how bad the roads are but then I have heard others it is not so bad. I don't know what to believe anymore. My wife was not disappointed you said to not tow as she doesn't even want to drive it. She would rather fly up, rent a car and get a private tour package for a few weeks and then catch a cruise or a rail adventure back to the states to fly back home.
Alan
Alan, I never drove to Alaska, but my brother & wife did 2 years ago and his advise is what I share.  We did take a cruise from Vancouver to Whitier, followed by taking an Alaska Railroad trip to Denali NP, with a bus return trip to Anchorage where we got on a plane.

The road to Alaska is paved, but road heaves in the permafrost region is rough on vehicles.

Much of beautiful Alaska is in the southern fiord region where taking a ferry from one city to another will save 800-1200 miles of mundane driving.  The ferry ride is very scenic with sights of snowcapped mountains and sea life including whales.  The ferry ride has a bit of cruise ship passenger care with narration of what is seen off the boat and restaurants, etc.  In the south is that famous Kodiak bear feading ground viewed from a high boardwalk.

Getting on and off the ferry invloves steep angles because of tide variation.  If your PC has a little rear-end sag like ours, you might consider installing rear air bags and fill them up to max height just prior to a ferry trip.  You can let out the air afterward to soften your ride.  Just carry a tiny 12v air compressor for that purpose.  Ferries charge by the inch.  Cost is very steep, but still cheaper than driving.  A tow vehicle could cost hundreds more.

Unless you have specific ideas & plans, Alaska is generally a trip where you drive, sight see, and repeat that over and over.  10,000 miles of that.  You sleep wherever you happen to be at that moment, then move on the next day.  You will be dragging a tow vehicle for most of the trip but never unhook it.  The few times you might want it, consider a rental.  But given you own a 2400, it's small enough to get around in with little hassle.

About Denali NP, a tow vehicle won't help you there either because private vehicles are prohibited in the park unless a passenger is handicapped.  They have great bus service for that which is quite nice.  The driver is very good about explaining a lot of things and stopping for wildlife and scenery.  It is quite the experience.....I am speaking from 2008 personal experience on this one.
1488  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Sprinter 2350 (no slide) on: July 21, 2013, 03:43:35 pm
That is looking mighty sweet.  I am happy for you two.
1489  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: To tow or not to tow. That is the question. on: July 21, 2013, 12:33:52 pm
(Regarding Tow Brake Systems) I have also heard of some that are somewhat permanent and you never see it. i think that is what i want.
Unified by US Gear is seamless once installed. A large device called a solenoid gets mounted under the driver seat, and a vacuum pump is seen under-hood but you don't do anything with them.  You only connect one wire harness which handles both the lights and Unified tow brake wiring.  When the tow is plugged into the PC, the sytem is awake and ready.  There is also a simple break-away cable that you need to connect.  You will also need to do the usual towing prep like unlocking your tow steering wheel and putting the transmission in neutral (or whatever your specific tow vehicle requires).

Function and Installation Video On The Unified Tow Brake
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBGpCpWCQVc

Here is our Jeep Liberty with Roadmaster towing hardware and Unified Tow Brake.  The red coily cable has 2 more connections than a standard 4 wire hitch connector.  All wires utilize the PC standard hitch connector, Nothing special is required for that.  If you look close, you can see a thin raw steel cable.  If a failure occurs for any reason and the tow vehicle separates from the PC, that cable pulls a plug which automatically activates the Unified to quickly stop the run-away tow vehicle.  The two blue cables are typical safety cables.
1490  Main Forum / General Discussion / 6 Years & Finally Broke My First Catch (WARNING) on: July 20, 2013, 11:29:13 pm
I wish those cheap little catches were made of metal.  I broken my first one this evening checking my batteries.  I knew it would eventually happen.  I've been so careful with them.  I'll need to get some matching spray paint too.  Boy oh boy, what else will I break in preparing for our trip?

I ordered a package of them here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/121141715270?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

EDIT - WARNING

After I painted a couple catches, I installed one.  The catches I bought off ebay are NOT the same exact size and the screw holes don't match.  I needed to drill one extra hole.  If your rig is not white or not painted gray/silver, the paint mismatch to the under-body will stand out.  I have a gray/silver body which for me it was acceptable because the gray colored under-body blends nicely.  I got lucky there.

I HIGHLY recommend ordering placement catches from PC-USA to assure they are the same.
1491  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: To tow or not to tow. That is the question. on: July 20, 2013, 09:15:24 pm
Since we are sharing....

I installed the tow bracket hardware on two vehicles now, our previous 2000 Toyoya MR2 Spyder, and our current 2006 Jeep Liberty.  The Spyder was more in-depth but happy to have done both vehicles myself.

Wiring the tow vehicles, I did both myself.

Braking system, we got by without one for the Spyder given it weighed just 2100 pounds, but admitted it was marginal at best.  For our Liberty I myself installed, a Unified by US Gear.  I really like how the system works, it's effectiveness/performance, and seamless hooking up and unhooking.  But it is expensive to purchase, and if you hire a pro to install it, that too will run you some serious money.  It is a near permanent installation, not a project for the novice.  If or when we change tow vehicles, if the Unified is still working well, I will move it over to a new tow.  But I would not look forward to that challenge.

We tow with a 2007 2350 which was given a lot of suspension upgrades which makes towing a breeze.  My wife is not intimidated driving the PC with tow on the open road.  Passing trucks,  cross winds, uneven road surfaces, and all is still well.

When we take our bicycles, they go on a bike rack on the back of the Liberty, nice to take them out for the day with the tow.
1492  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: To tow or not to tow. That is the question. on: July 20, 2013, 08:56:57 am
We tow a 4x4 with our 2350 to be more adventurous taking primitive roads and for improved mobility in crowded national parks.  But if you manage well without towing, then don't go there.  If you think you'd like to tow on a trip to Alaska, don't.  Alaska is a trip on the move.  You won't be setting up base camp for days at a time which is where a tow vehicle comes in handy.  Then there are the ferry charges...by the inch.  You'll regret towing up there unless you tow an off road vehicle with plans for true adventure.

1493  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Skin Care for our Cruiser on: July 18, 2013, 03:57:57 pm
Our first rig (Toyota/Mirage) was 100% gel-coat fiberglass.  Over the 24 years we owned since new, I was not able to control the chauk-like weathering.  From a serious polishing compound and orbital buffing, to a fast cover-over with magic goop from a bottle, nothing worked to my satisfaction.  That was one reason why we went with a full body paint job with our PC.

I know it's not the answer you were looking for.  Sorry about that.

About that Red Max Pro floor polish I mentioned higher in this thread.  Has anyone here tried it on their PC?  I don't know how well it holds up to the elements.  Here are pictures of it in-use.  http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html
1494  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: SHELVES FOR 3RD SEAT, 2350 on: July 18, 2013, 01:48:32 pm
I mounted those shelves in our 2350 bathroom above the toilet to hold towels (rolled up).  People ask me where I bought the shelving unit from but I cannot remember.  Where did you buy yours from?

Here is a post-vacation picture above the toilet, towels not in-place for this picture.


Another thought about that wall space behind the barrel chair.
We mounted a wall clock which continuously displays indoor and outdoor temperatures, has an alarm clock and more.  It works very well, a nice place to display the outdoor temperature.  The outdoor temperature transmitter is stored in the rear outdoor storage compartment in a provided holster-like thingy.


We later replaced the barrel seat with a 3rd captian seat.  Given it reclines, it would interfere with anything mounted on that wall.


We fight for that easy chair  Smile .
1495  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: WATER PUMP FIX UP on: July 18, 2013, 12:24:50 pm
You need at least 18"-24" on both sides and the easiest method is to loop the flex line so you don't have to modify the rigid pipe as much. I have had pumps mounted from the factory with short lengths of straight flex hose and they still hammered. Sometimes I've had to loop it twice, but regardless the length is the fix. Much to my surprise my previous Winnebago came with the flex hose looped.
Great details of which I agree 100%.  (a helpful for you)  My 2 gallon accumulator tank killed all vibration using a non-looped flex hose between pump and accumulator tank.  Without a tank, a looped flex hose should dampen the vibration perfectly.
1496  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: WATER PUMP FIX UP on: July 17, 2013, 11:26:27 pm
I think I understand,,,, did you move the pump to attach the flex line to the output for the pump,, I can feel behind the pump and feel the output joint? can not see of course.
sparky
Yes I moved the pump from it's original mounting position.

You should be able to unscrew the fitting of the white plumbing off the pump by hand utilizing the wings on that fitting....it's like a wing nut, not requiring tools.  Remember which way to unscrew.  You are working from the opposite direction.
1497  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: WATER PUMP FIX UP on: July 17, 2013, 10:01:33 pm
The output line is hard PEX white plastic plumbing where vibration easily travels making a big racket inside the motor home.  That is where you need to add a flex line.... between the pump and PEX.  The flex line will prevent vibration from getting to the hard plastic pipes.  An accumulator tank does the same thing but better.  I like having a flex line not just to prevent vibration, but also preventing potential cracking of the plastic pump itself.

As seen at the base of the area here, I added a ball valve in the low pressure line between the fresh water tank and the pump.  This in case of a failure.  It is a means to stop the water flow quickly before 40 gallons of water ends up inside the motor home.
1498  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jensen rear TV issue on: July 16, 2013, 09:15:59 pm
Universal remotes are sold everywhere for under $10, though I am sure some special features on your TV might not be managed well.  Something to consider if all else fails you.
1499  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I spent the afternoon in the storage cabinet of my 2350 on: July 16, 2013, 09:14:35 pm
My brother replaced a failed water pump with a so-called quiet one of which he was disapponted with how noisey it still was.

Our stock pump is truely quiet with the accululator pump and flex hose.  I know my hearing is failing with age, but if I am not paying attention, I'll miss it cycle on/off pending where I am in our 2350.  When the rig is quiet, it's a friendly humm even when laying on the bed above it.
1500  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I spent the afternoon in the storage cabinet of my 2350 on: July 15, 2013, 08:35:51 pm
Look up "shurflo 2 gallon accumulator" on Google and click on the "Images" in the top banner.  Scroll down and click on the pictures that match.

Here are some quick finds
http://www.civicsolar.com/product/shurflo-3400-002
https://www.readymaderesources.com/cart//pumping-water/off-grid-water-pumps/shurflo-accessories-for-pumps-accumulator-tank-2-gallon-3400-002-free-shipping/prod_4169.html?ccUser=

My makeshift installation here uses a $30 accumulator tank from Home Depot and it works great and has never given me any kind of trouble.  But I really don't like my installation.

About the Scanguage-II, the cable can be made longer using a standard RJ45 internet cable from your home computer and coupler so don't buy their optional expensive one.  The way I set it up in my rig, it looks permanently installed, but I can easily remove the primary cable with the special OBD2 connector and also the velcro'd head unit.  This so I can use the guage on other vehicles.  The cable permanently installed in our PC is independant, a computer cable that goes from the head unit right to the OBD2 area.

Radio Shack sell these things very cheap.

Here is a generic extension cable.


Here is a coupler which simply chains two cables together.



About the water tank filler tube and vent tube.  It has been a number of years since I had our 2007 2350 bed platorm removed.  I seem to recall both tubes were clear plastic and both were short and sloped down toward the tank....nothing spiraled around like the pic  in this thread.  I hope it will be a long time before I need to remove the platform to see things again.  One thing I can say......I never have any trouble filling our fresh water tank.  It must breath well because the water goes in full blast from any water source using just a garden hose.  When water shoots out the vent tube, the tank is truly full.
Pages: 1 ... 98 99 [100] 101 102 ... 197