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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC vs.Nexus on: September 05, 2014, 09:38:05 pm
On other forums, people who own a Nexus praise the company and their products.  Nexus is only a few years old so nobody knows how well their rigs will stand the test of time.  But I don't see anything alarming on my computer screen.  I can't say they are built as well as a Phoenix Cruiser, but the price is adjusted lower accordingly.  I personally have trouble with their rear wall construction method.  PCs have a solid 5-sided semi-double-wall rear wall.  The Nexus appears to use a flat panel with a top cap for style.  Motor homes in general count on the rear wall to keep the structure squared up so a PC should do a better job of it.  Also the Nexus rear wall places the seam work in the corners instead of around to the sides.  I feel the corners see a lot more stress so I would not want the seam work there.

Keep in-mind I never kicked the tires of a Nexus, so don't take my input too seriously.  It has been a long time since I walked through an RV show.
17  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Wax/Protection advice please on: September 05, 2014, 02:26:14 pm
I too have the full body paint.
I just wash the whole motorhome.
I don't bother using 303 or any other wax.
My unit looks like it is new. This is just what I do.
With full body paint you do not have any decals to go bad.
I waxed our 2007 full body paint at the end of the season for the first two years.  It's been a long time (maybe 5 years) since the last waxing and just like Tom, the rig looks great.  Keep in mind that our rig stays indoors when not on trips.  I am sure that makes a huge difference.

Our rig has all wording as decals, applied after the paint job.  PC-USA must have changed it some time thereafter.  Painted lettering is better for it will age at the same rate as the rest of the finish.
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Reunion in Colorado on: September 05, 2014, 12:57:36 pm
There is a remote chance we'll be in the area in our PC, maybe close enough to stop in for a day or two, but my wife wants to see Maine, not Colorado.  We'll find out soon enough if the sun is in our faces or on our backs.  It sure would be nice to meet the gang.
19  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Shade for the new PC on: September 03, 2014, 06:00:28 pm
You sure have a lot more time with temporary shelters than me.  I am glad you are confident with your heavy duty flavor.  Cross brace or not, your decision is based from lots of extreme weather experiences.  I feel better for your decision, knowing that now about you.

Blessings!
20  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Shade for the new PC on: September 03, 2014, 02:06:56 pm
Ron, I have it well bolted to the concrete, 6" square footpads with 4 lags in each of the 8 legs.  The pipe is 1-7/8" schedule 40 steel, so it can't flex more than an inch in any direction.  It's 30'x16' and about 13' high, so lots of clearance if I park it on target.
That sounds great!

But...

Something inside me says it would be good to reinforce the frame better.  I am thinking  of an "X" cross brace on the back wall and center sections of the side walls, made of conduit.  This to prevent the structure from twisting in a bad storm.  Flatten & drill the ends of electrical conduit for bolting.  The "X" does not have to go across the entire wall.  Just inside the center sections and back wall,  and a small horizontal cross brace up high between adjacent walls.  The intersection of conduits that make the "X's" you could flatten & add a bolt there too.  It would surely stiffen up the structure.

Maybe I am over-engineering it, but I fear that gusty 60 mph winds could mess up your rig.  Check the website of the manufacture of the canopy.  They might offer an additional kit to do this very thing.

I just browsed the web but did not find an example.  Maybe my idea is not commonly practiced at all.
21  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Shade for the new PC on: September 02, 2014, 10:13:23 pm
A very affordable and effective alternative to indoor parking.   ThumbsUp  Just make sure it is well anchored, maybe installing those floatation noodles around the piping that might make contact with the rig on a very windy day.  Just slit them then wrap the pipes.
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sewer bypass for Sanicon? on: September 02, 2014, 10:08:31 pm
I thought the factory installed a conventional gravity feed Twist-&-Pull on every unit, located further underneath the rig.  It is set back a little farther, maybe out of sight on your rig..
23  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: August 29, 2014, 02:05:23 pm
It sounds like you know what you want based from much experience.  Good for you.
24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: August 29, 2014, 09:11:56 am
Bob & Sharon bobojay,

Your long term Sprinter experience was interesting to read.  I do wonder if your alignment challenges would have been best addressed by a truck suspension shop, for example the place that took care of our Ford E350 HERE.  They did things that a regular alignment shop would never tackle like changing the bushings from centered to offset to compensate for the extreme circumstances.

About your next rig, possibly a 2100 or 2350 Phoenix Cruiser.  I have always thought that if we never towed one of our vehicles, the smaller 5.4L-V8 engine would have been the better choice for our 2350.  The V10 does a great job and I cannot complain about having more power, but I feel the V8 would do the job of getting around solo just fine.  Under extreme conditions like climbing steep grades, the V8 surely would not do the job as well, but for my wife and I, that condition is not the norm.  I'd be fine just taking on those grades a little slower.  On the flats, how fast does one in a motor home need to get up to 65 mph?  Motor homes in general need to be driven conservatively for safety sake and also for the sake of the occupants, the house, and contents.

I understand that the V8 engine would increase fuel economy by 10% and the purchase price would be reduced by $1000.  Less important but worth mentioning is that the V8 offers more room under the hood for mechanical repairs, and the engine weighs less.

The E450 chassis is another debatable subject matter to me.  Just keep in mind that the 2100 and the 2350 already have plenty of extra cargo carrying capability, more than you will ever achieve under normal use.  The E450's bigger brakes and hydraulic brake booster are surely welcomed, but a rougher ride comes with it.  Motor homes get shaken up enough as it is.  I would not want to shake up my house any more than necessary.  Maybe a leaf spring or two in back could be removed to soften the ride of a 2100/2350 E450.  In general, a softer ride is achieved by having the actual load close to the max capability of the chassis.  For example, the ride of an empty box truck will jar your body.  But load it up and the ride smooths out nicely.

I am not trying to convince you to go with my ideas.  Just sharing my thoughts, giving you something to think about.  One thing certain, I don't claim to be an expert with these things.
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electrical Nightmare on: August 28, 2014, 11:07:14 pm
I am very happy to read your problem is 100% resolved along with all expenses covered.  I am surprised the distribution panel was faulty by Ford.  I never heard of such a warranty problem with a vehicle.  I would have thought the problem was somehow related to the conversion.  Again, I am glad all is well.  Now you can get on with enjoying that new home of yours.  Smile
26  Main Forum / Photos / Re: 2015 2100 special, home in Florida on: August 28, 2014, 12:41:16 pm
Hi all, new forum member here and first post, not an owner yet.

Any chance you could take an exterior full side view pic to see the difference between the shorter & longer wheelbase 2100? Your unit is beautiful, and you guys sure came up with some great ideas on that interior!
Welcome aboard!

I do not think model 2100 is offered with more than one wheel base.  Are you sure you don't mean model 2350 and the stretched version of it unofficially referred as model 2450?
27  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Converting Fluorescent To LED Just By Changing Bulbs on: August 27, 2014, 11:51:56 am
SURPRISING POWER CONSUMPTION TEST RESULTS

Testing three original florescent lights with two 8-watt light bulbs each.
Testing three 33 LED light strips

Each group of three varied within it's respective group by miniscule amounts, not enough of a difference to calculate an average.

Here are the results at battery voltage 12V

RESULTS
Original Florescent Lights operate at a surprising 9 watts for each twin bulb fixture.  I expected it to be around 16 watts.
33 LED strips operate at 3 watts x 2 per fixture, so the LED conversion is a 6 watt fixture.  This I expected.
(a previous LED strip tested prior was determined to be faulty...I won't get into why except that it got crinkled before the test)

VARIFICATION
We double checked our measurements with two different testers, one a hand-held, the other a much more sophisticated bench top piece of equipment.

CONCLUSION
The two 33 LED strip conversion reduces power consumption by only 33% because the florescent lights were much more efficient than I expected.

APPLES TO APPLES
If I had been trying to achieve the same amount of light lumens, I would have reduced the number of LEDs from 33 to 27 per strip, which would make the LED fixtures 5 watts instead of 6 watts.

PERSONAL THOUGHTS
Given our interior has dark cherry cabinetry, I desired a little more light, achieving an estimated 20% more.  My LED conversion included mood/night lighting which also helps justify to myself that the project was worth doing. We also like the warmer look the warm white LEDs provide over the cold-blue florescent tubes.  If I was going solely for reduced power consumption, I would be disappointed.  

OBSERVATION
Regarding the fixture over our dinette.  That fixture always had a glare to it, both as a florescent and now as an LED.  It is simply positioned low putting that light in my face when looking across the table to my wife.  Since that fixture is now a little brighter as an LED, I think the glare is a little worse, so the electrical engineer and I are tossing around ideas on that one.  A POT (potentiometer) would be nice to adjust the voltage, but heat is a concern.  So we are leaning towards a really big resistor to simply lower the voltage to the fixture to 9V-10V to a fixed lower light level.
28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Converting Fluorescent To LED Just By Changing Bulbs on: August 26, 2014, 11:56:23 pm
I want to get a much better idea of power consumption before and after the conversion.

I am taking to work tomorrow, three additional 33 LED strips to measure power consumption at 12v to see if they vary from the first one.  I also reassembled three original florescent bulb circuits, soldering a jumper instead of the original switch, to keep them turned on for the test.  Surprisingly they stay assembled well enough without the housings they once were a part of.

Three of each should give me a good idea how much they vary.  I will post the results.
29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Converting Fluorescent To LED Just By Changing Bulbs on: August 26, 2014, 11:27:40 pm
Nice job Ron. Do u still have the links handy for the LEDs switch and bulbs?  Thanks
Sure, Here they are again.

3-Way Switches on Ebay here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331189488843?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

5 meters in length of warm white LEDs on a reel here.  Be sure o select warm white if you want what I got.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221496385039?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&var=520353433324&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Tonight I changed the range hood light bulb socket and installed the 6th sealed & frosted LED there.  The simple flat rectangular lens that covers the light bulb is faded yellow & ugly (likely from the heat from the stove), and never intended to diffuse the light.  I'll be on the lookout for something better, likely cutting something down to size.
30  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: August 26, 2014, 01:57:05 pm
Added Improvement #24
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