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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis for Phoenix on: August 13, 2015, 11:37:50 am
Interesting Dave!

I had wondered about Sulastic Shackles for $419.  They seem to be a very simplistic & logical approach to smoothing out the ride of an E-series motor home, though not sure how they will affect the height.
17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 12, 2015, 05:09:18 pm
Thanks Dave for the well wishes.
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 12, 2015, 04:04:29 pm
I recently removed our Euro Chair and replaced it with a permanently mounted captains chair....The captains chair we purchased came with brackets for a seat belt but the seat belt has to be purchased separately.
You are the first person I know of who replaced his Euro-chair in a new rig, with a fixed-mount captain seat with seat belts.

If you had known that before taking delivery, you could have requested Phoenix replace your Euro chair with a matching 3rd captain seat with seat belts, I believe at no additional cost to you.

I know it is water over the dam for you.  I mention this primarily for prospective buyers considering the same.


Our 2007 2350 came with the old style low back barrel chair, impossible to relax in and not very safe to ride in either.  Phoenix hooked me up with the seat supplier Paul's Seating.  I ordered the seat from Paul's, had it delivered, reused the pedestal and seat belt and it turned out great.  I recall the seat with manually adjustable lumbar support and two armrests, with delivery was $475.
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Issues with 2910D CCC and Microwave/convesction oven? on: August 12, 2015, 12:39:49 pm
At 5'4", I sometimes had a problem removing hot foods from the microwave when we had our 2551.  Judi
We have a 2007 2350 with the microwave over the stove as shown in the pictures below.  As you can see, we have a vented hood in-between which also includes the tank monitoring panel.  Adding to the height of the microwave, we have louvered vents in between.  As a result, the microwave is mounted way too high for my wife Irene of 5'-1".  She complains about it on every trip.  Replacing the entire section of upper cabinetry, the monitor panel, the microwave oven, & also successfully mating the shifted vent from the wider vented oven to the outside vent, has me nixing the project.  So I remain on-hand to put the food in, check up on it, and take it out for Irene.  I had suggested she use our folding step stool, but she fears loosing her balance while handling the food.

So my comment to the OP is that I wish our microwave/convection oven was vented and mounted as low as our vented hood is today.  That would bring it down 8" which would work out perfect for my wife Irene.  Your primary question concerns safety & reliability.  Sorry, but I don't have the answer for that one.  Only that I would be willing to  take that risk.



20  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 11, 2015, 05:41:35 pm
Got it!

If you wanted, could you easily get it outside?
21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Omnidirectional TV Antenna - Anyone Have Experience? on: August 11, 2015, 05:22:04 pm
I'd like an omnidirectional (no pointing required) free-air-wave digital antenna for the roof of our PC.  Does anyone here have any "positive" experience with them?

I quickly found the ones listed below (some not for RVs), but I would consider anything as long as it is PC friendly and a good performer for long-distances.  I would like to reuse the base of my old crank-up Winegard as not to disturb all the mounting holes and caulk.  Whatever I get, it must not be taller than the a/c unit or it won't clear my garage door opening.  Of coarse it also has to withstand being driven around like everything else on the roof of the PC.

1) Winegard MS-2000
2) Shakespeare Sea Watch 3020
3) Antenna Craft 5MS921
4) Channel Master CM3000
5) Terk FDTVO
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 11, 2015, 03:06:02 pm
So why doesn't Phoenix mount the euro or other captain seat with a seat belt so that it can be used during travel?

To you people with the euro seat, do you like to move it about the cabin, or could you easily keep it in the clamp-down position?  Is having the seat mobile, worth the sacrifice of a 3rd travel seat?

I see it being real nice if the euro-seat could be brought outdoors.  Does it get through the door easily?
23  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 11, 2015, 01:57:25 pm
Am I correct in stating that regardless how the euro chair is mounted, it is never to be used when the vehicle is in-motion?
24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis for Phoenix on: August 11, 2015, 11:08:34 am
Good feedback Gents.  The Ford Transit will not be a viable option for my application.  Lets face it the turning radius on the E-450 is horrible so  the F-550 would most likely  be even worse!  Guess I will just have to get myself into and M2 Freightliner!( my wife will never let that happen)
I keep reading that one day soon the E450 will no longer be made.  If it actually happens, that will dramatically impact the class B+/C motor home industry, for there is nothing as capable other than the F-series chassis you mention.  You just might get your wish.  Smile
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: August 11, 2015, 11:01:27 am
Love the room of the PC vs. the class B, but hate the MPG of 10 MPG vs. 17 for the Pleasure Way.
Yes indeed, 10 mpg is about right for a PC-2350 on an E350 with V10 engine.  That is why the Sprinter is worth consideration for people who drive a lot, ideal following ball clubs, dog shows, etc. around the country.

Our 2007 PC-2350 E350-V10 is now 8 years old.  I drove it to work today towing our Jeep Liberty for a shake-down.  I looked at the odometer and was surprised to see it has less than 24,000 miles (I thought we drove it more).  So for us, the $16,500 current-day lower purchase price of the E350-V10 would be the better investment even though the fuel economy is 2/3 that of the Sprinter diesel.

With the lower price of gas lately, our refills on our upcoming trip will sting much less.  That will be refreshing.
26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis for Phoenix on: August 10, 2015, 04:36:30 pm
We owned a Toyota truck chassis motor home for 24 years.  Like Barry mentioned, there was a lot of lost length for the actual living space.  And it wasn't fun getting between cab and cabin.  I would naturally shy away from anything that resembles a pickup truck with a long hood.

I feel the Ford Transit cut-away diesel and gas would be an interesting replacement for the E350 & Sprinter for the shorter PCs.
27  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Reinforcing Your Norcold Fridge Door Hinges on: August 10, 2015, 11:08:04 am
The older Norcold fridge (maybe the newer ones too) have a design flaw in that the main fridge door lower hinge can break from rough-road driving along with extra weight people add into the door from drinks stored on the door shelves.  I decided to be proactive and so I bought reinforcement hinge hardware on Ebay, paying $49 for two sets with free delivery.  These kits are also sold elsewhere.  I think they are made by Norcold to address the problem.  I bought two sets to reinforce both the fridge and freezer door. 

Though the primary concern is the lower fridge door hinge, I decided to install both top & bottom on both doors since it all fit fine.  Who knows, maybe the top one will do some good on a bumpy road to Alaska one day.  The large thick washer that came with the kit fit very sloppy because the inside diameter "ID" was much too large to self-center.  It also stuck out far beyond the rest of the hinge, not a nice look at all.  I decided to replace it with two smaller and thinner stainless steel washers, placing one at each hinge (top & bottom) to assure there is no binding as was intended by Norcold, and also experienced when first using the original washer on only the lower hinge.  I will keep an eye on them to make sure they do the job as well as larger washers would.

The installation took all of about 20 minutes for both doors.  Now I can rest easy, not to worry about hinges breaking.  The reinforcements look nice.

Here is one reinforcement kit.  I am posting big pictures so you can see the detail better.
Notice how huge the original washers are.


Here you can see both top and bottom reinforcements and the thinner & smaller diameter stainless steel washers I used.


28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: August 09, 2015, 09:53:44 pm
Thank you so much Jim for your generosity but I just bought a pair of kits on Ebay for $49 to reinforce both doors.  I'll just sell what I don't use on ebay to recover some of the cost to keep my investment under control as usual.
Getting ready for our big trip, I'm going through my 2350 to-do list.

I finally installed the fridge door reinforcements, deciding to install both top & bottom since both fit fine.  Who knows, maybe the top one will do some good.  The large thick washer that came with the kit fit very sloppy with the inside diameter way too large for a nice centered fit.  It also stuck our far beyond the rest of the hinge, not a nice look at all.  I decided to replace it with two smaller and thinner conforming stainless steel washers, placing one at each hinge to assure there is no binding as was intended by Norcold.  I will keep an eye on them to make sure they do the job well.  If not, I will replace them with larger, but still thinner ones. It is done easily enough.

The installation took all of about 20 minutes for both doors.  Now I'll rest easy, not worrying about them any longer.  The reinforcements look nice and I understand now how they offer reinforcement, though I am not sure "how much".  I wonder why Norcold is not installing the reinforcements on all fridges sold.  Maybe the latest models have them or something equivalent better integrated.

For those who wonder what the reinforcements are, here is what they look like, big pictures to see the detail better.
Notice how huge the original washers are?


Here you can see both top and bottom reinforcements and the thinner & smaller diameter stainless steel washers.




I will be putting this into the Tips & Tricks area.
29  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Converting Interior Lighting To Low Power Warm LED Lighting, Very Affordable on: August 07, 2015, 02:18:21 pm
This post replaces an old long winded technical post that grew and grew in the general forum.

We own a 2007 2350 which was equipped with nine florescent light fixtures.   We never appreciated the look of florescent lighting, and they often emit a vibrating light.  I wanted to convert the fixtures to warm emitting LED technology to improve the atmosphere and reduce power.  Converting versus replacing was primarily chosen to control cost and to avoid imprints on the ceiling fabric and have old mounting holes visible from mounting different style fixtures.

The project is complete with results as follows.
- total investment to convert all nine fixtures was around $32 (~$3.50 per fixture)
- the original florescent fixtures used 9 watts of power, now converted to warm LED using less than half at 4.33 watts.
- added an LED night light into each of the 9 fixtures
- if not adding a night light, you can do this 9 fixture project quick and easy for only $12 ($1.33 per fixture)

How It Was Accomplished...

I bought two 5 meter long reels of self-sticking LED strips on ebay HERE for around $12 per reel.  I used only a little from the 2nd reel needed for the night light circuits.
LEDs are grouped in 3's with a shared resistor to power them.  You can see the the individual 3 yellow LEDs & 1 black resistor circuits here.


I bought 20 (but needed only 9) 3-way switches HERE for around $9.  They snap into the same hole as the original white colored 2-way switches.  The 3-ways were needed to also control the night-light.


Here is one of the nine original florescent fixtures with all the florescent components removed.  De-soldering of the switch from the circuit board was required.


Here is an assembled fixture with LED strips installed.  I selected the angled surfaces for they had a flat surface to bond to, and they aim the light better.


Note the 3-way switch in the center/off position.  Also note the tiny 3-LED night light circuit on the side.
The adhesive backed strips slowly peeled off over time at the ends, so I added a dab of clear silicone caulk on the ends (not seen) as an adhesive.  The LED strips now stay in place.


Here is a fully lit LED fixture.  They turned out to be too bright, lighting up the interior of the rig so much that it was hard on the eyes.  The contrast at night was just too much.  This fully-lit unit used 6 watts of electricity.


To reduce the brightness and power consumption, I disabled every 3rd LED group by de-soldering their associated chip resistor.  This reduced light and power by 28%.  I did this on all fixtures throughout the interior except over the bed.  The results were very good with each fixture using 4.33 watts of power.





This fixture has every-other group of 3-LEDs deactivated which reduced power & light by 45%, now using only 3.33 watts of power.  I did this only on the two fixtures under the hanging cabinets over the bed.  Given the smaller area, they provide better lighting for reading and such.  It is also much nicer just laying in bed facing less light.





Here is the single circuit 1/3 watt night light.  It is more than a glow, but much less light than this picture illustrates.
If this picture was true to reality, I would have mounted only two circuits, one on each end for a 2/3 watt light fixture. Smile


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another LED conversion to reduce power was very simple by replacing standard bulbs with equivalent LED bulbs.  Unfortunately I don't remember the cost.  I do remember it wasn't cheap.  I bought 3-twin packs and replaced all my regular bulbs throughout the rig.


Here is our porch light with new LED.  Inside the fixture, I added reflective industrial aluminum to better reflect the light outward.
30  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak in bath area on: August 05, 2015, 10:52:39 am
Glad you got it resolved without much hassle or cost.  Something for the rest of us to keep in-mind if we consistently find water on the floor around the area of the toilet.

That guy Kermit....what a gem.
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