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16  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Air conditioner on: June 04, 2017, 09:02:16 am
Joe R offers some great advise on cleaning.  The white fuzzies from the cottonwood trees in our area can plug up the cooling fins of our house a/c unit.
17  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Realistic Scheduled Service on: June 04, 2017, 08:42:53 am
Hi There JoeyD!

The subject of "TIRES" is probably the single biggest topic but I won't start a tire tread because it is such a contraversial one.  One thing certain, be sure to use a good trusted tire gauge and maintain the proper tire pressure.  I was surprised to learn about the tire gauges I relied on.  You can read about it HERE.

Watch your air filter closely.  Don't go by mileage alone.  How often depends on how clean or dirty the air is where you travel.  Traveling a season through forest fire haze will prematurely dirty-up the air filter.  One year in our first rig, I had a new air filter at the start of our trip, but just one afternoon driving in Monument Valley required a new filter the next day.  A simple visual inspection works well for me.  The in-service filter can appear clean until compared to a brand new one.  

It seems that around the 40,000 mile mark is when servicing the transmission (fluid & filter change) becomes a good idea for "severe service" like a motorhome.  Don't by universal transmission fluid.  Be sure to get exactly what is stated in your Ford manual.

As always, make sure your power steering fluid is at the right level and your coolant as well.  I don't know the recommended coolant flush schedule but I understand in-general it is based on miles driven.  Coolant doesn't get old sitting inside a radiator and engine block.  Ethylene glycol doesn't break down, but the added rust inhibitors do when the coolant is heated.  I recommend using the same coolant Ford used whether adding or replacing.

As far as your brakes are concerned, you being in Florida, you are in a very humid environment.  It is wise to have your brake fluid flushed every 5-6 years.  If you don't drive your PC enough, severe surface rust on the rotors will reduce brake performance and also the life of your brake pads.

I am sure there is more, but this is what came to mind at the moment.
18  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: ford recall on: June 03, 2017, 02:45:07 pm
Does anyone know what model years the recall affects?  Does the recall include both the E350 and E450 cut-away chassis?
19  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Customer service for parts?? on: June 01, 2017, 09:40:28 pm
I had learned that when it comes to seats, seat cushions, seat skins, things like that, I had to work direct with the supplier for Phoenix's seats, the name Paul's Seating.  Phoenix was able to help a little here and there, but working direct with the supplier was the way to go when I replaced our barrel chair with a 3rd captains seat.  And as I recall, it took a very long time to get the seat.

It has been many years since I ordered that seat 3rd captains seat.  Maybe Paul's works a little faster these days, but then again.... shrug
20  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Keyless Door Lock on: May 31, 2017, 07:12:35 am
As to the security question, the RV shop got input from a local lock shop (love these small towns and how quickly they network). Their suggestion, "If you are really worried, just fake press other buttons in the sequence and work your way up and down the buttons pressing for real the ones that are your combination."  We've tried it a few times and is an easy solution.  You only have so much time between real pushes so will take a bit to get the timing down.

Nicki
 I really like your suggestion!  I never thought of it, it makes great sense.  A "Neighborly" for Nicki.
21  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Initial Oil Change and Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on: May 30, 2017, 09:40:02 am
Hi Mike and Lynn,

Congratulations on your new purchase!

It likely doesn't matter, but with 1500 brand new miles plus towing, I would feel better to change the oil before the next trip.  I would also feel better using full synthetic motor oil.  As far as the brand is concerned, price is king with me as long as it is SAE approved.....and what synthetic motor oil isn't?  I stock up on full synthetic Quaker State (sometimes another brand) when it is on sale along with a store credit rebate at my area Menard's.  With our PC, I change it with the engine hot just prior to the next big trip which works out well since we never exceed 5000 miles during any given trip.  Whatever oil you decide to use, be sure to follow your manual on the viscosity which I think continues to be 5W-20.

I personally like to use the drain plug because when you remove it, there is a bigger opening for a faster flow.  Maybe I am over-playing this but I feel better ejecting sludge instead of letting it collect and settle near the opening.

Another thing I have been doing is placing a very strong magnet on the end of the oil filter to attract steel/iron particles that may be floating around.  In general, the break-in period is most prone to floating particles.  The strongest magnets I found are from old computer hard drives.  I have used weaker magnets only to find them missing during my next oil change.
22  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do you leave your sink cover over the sink while driving? on: May 29, 2017, 08:26:24 am
The micro sometimes  makes noise so now I put something in it to weight things down and it is less of a prob.
Another noise source for the microwaves (from at least 2013 on with household type convection oven/microwave) - the frame over the light fixture on the bottom is held by one screw and rattles. Bobby suggested I run a thin bead of silicone caulk on the loose side to hold it in place. I originally thought a screw had fallen out but it wasn't designed to have a second screw. I'm sure a single screw is fine in a house that doesn't move but the loose side does rattle a bit in an RV going down the road.
Maybe you could consider a felt pad or two in between the two metal surfaces so you can remove that piece if you need to later.

Our main TV had many such assembly conditions you describe which made it rattle up a storm.  The felt pads worked great.
23  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Keyless Door Lock on: May 29, 2017, 08:10:37 am
I surely understand the convenience of a keyless entry door but in the case with a PC, the keypad is positioned high making it easy for someone with binoculars to watch the code get punched-in.  These days with such high quality cell phone video cameras, they can even record it from a long distance.

Do you worry about that?

Ron,

I can get in anyone's RV in about 10 seconds.   The tool to do that is called an automatic center punch.  About 4" long and 1/2" around.    Simply put the point on any window.. Cab door windows are the best.  Push in on the center punch and when the spring releases, the window (tempered glass) shatters into a thousand pieces.  Bingo.. You'e in.

That is not some deep dark secret.. It's a well know method used by thieves everywhere.

As a 26 year veteran of the Denver Police, I can guarantee there is nothing that a determined thief cannot get into.   The idea is to make your property nit as easy to get into as other's property.

Keypads have been used for decades and are just as secure as any keyed lock.  They offer convenience and peace of mind.

You don't want someone spying on you pressing the keypad, put a beach towel over your head and completely shield yourself as you punch in the numbers.


I agree a thief can easily getting into any vehicle.  But there is a big difference between breaking and entering, versus simple entering.  The stakes get much higher when doing damage.  Offering quiet easy safe entry for a would-be thief is just too tempting for the right person.

About covering up the keypad with one hand and punching in the number with the other hand (or towel over your head rolling on the floor) that becomes a two handed operation of which kind-of detracts some of the benefit.  You also need to be aware of your surroundings when you are going to cheat......everyone will cheat now and then.

I am very comfortable using a key, especially since I re-key'd the two entry door locks to use a common key.  I suppose it's in-part because of what I grew up with and have at home.

I do have a keyless entry fob & push-button start on my 2014 Nissan Altima and I really love it....So you can teach an old dog a few new tricks.  Smile  My PC (both the van with the entry door) with my Nissan fob activated keyless setup would be real sweet.
24  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Do you leave your sink cover over the sink while driving? on: May 29, 2017, 07:53:38 am
The micro sometimes  makes noise so now I put something in it to weight things down and it is less of a prob.

Hi HenryJ,

I am not sure this applies to your 2016, but the 6 screws on the face of the louvered plate that holds-in our microwave oven would loosen over the miles.  I would tighten them up once a year.  Last year my cousin gave me an idea to use "T" nuts of which I detailed HERE.  So far the microwave oven has stayed tight in the cabinet which has eliminated the rattling.
25  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Best tools for washing rig on: May 28, 2017, 09:18:13 pm
Ron, Great minds think a like    Cheers  that's exactly what I do as well.

One thing to add, I use a cordless leaf blower to blow most of the water off and dry.
Oh Yes, I do that too....forgot to mention it.   Cheers
26  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: brakes on: May 27, 2017, 07:16:57 pm
Ron,  I heard that about the front right shock but couldn't figure out why. I assume its because most don't know that just under the carpet behind the brake peddle is a large rubber boot. Remove that boot and you have direct access to the top of the shock. That being said I'm a bit lazy and didn't want to take the time to turn that nut a gazillion time on that long stud. I used my sawsall and in a matter of seconds the shock was removed. The access point under that carpet made it a breeze to install the new shock.
So there is a rubber boot to access the nut from above?  Oh that is  rolling on the floor.  So much talk for so many years about how difficult it is to get off and there is an easy solution.  Thanks for sharing that.
27  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Best tools for washing rig on: May 26, 2017, 06:45:04 pm
First wash or 20th wash, I use a whole lot of the cheapest automotive wash soap (sold by the gallon) and a mop-material covered sponge marketed for washing automobiles in a 5 gallon bucket of warm water, and rinse with an open hose to avoid spraying because spraying leaves a lot more water spots.  Allow the rinse water to flow over the surfaces.  One thing certain, you will miss some dirty areas requiring touch-up.

About waxing the first time, I would wait 6 months or the fall, whichever comes first.  In the mean time, do your best to avoid parking under sappy trees.  Clean off sap & bugs frequently until that first waxing.
28  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Saleing 2910T on: May 26, 2017, 06:41:34 pm
When we were looking for our preowned PC we used these websites: RVTrader, RVusa, this forum's  classified and some other internet RV for sale sites.
I agree with THIAC's advise.....also adding Craigslist to his list.
29  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: brakes on: May 26, 2017, 06:32:55 pm
Mario, Also you can reduce the cost by a couple thousand doing it yourself. I installed Koni shocks , (bilsteins would be much less) new sway bars and the safe t plus for  $1500  in a day. There's nothing all that difficult.
I agree with Joseph.  Had I known back in 2007 what I know today, I would have installed most or all of the upgrades myself.

I understand there is an issue to address when installing both a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar and rear trac bar together.  They might share a common mounting point or interfere with each other in some fashion.  I don't recall the specifics.

I also understand the driver front shock absorber is a challenge.  You turn the shock instead of the nut up top because there is no room to turn the wrench.

I would consider having a shop install everything if the rig is older and rusty underneath requiring the heating of bolts to loosen them, the ones that hold the original parts on the chassis.  A Bolt Buster is a wonderful tool for heating bolts safely but I don't have easy access to one.
30  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: brakes on: May 25, 2017, 03:45:44 pm
Hi Mario,

It seems, the shorter the PC, the greater the need for suspension improvements.  You have a 2910 and claim you don't have any handling issues so maybe you don't need them.  But for short wheel base/long rear overhang units like the 2100 and 2350, the suspension upgrades are much appreciated.....most especially on the 2007 and older E350 model years because they don't have a Ford standard rear stabilizer bar like other E-series have.

Here are the listed upgrades most commonly utilized by owners of E350s and E450s, regardless of the brand of motor home.

1) Heavy Duty Rear Stabilizer Bar (thicker & stronger with polymer bushings, Helwig & Roadmaster are popular brands)
2) Heavy Duty Front Stabilizer Bar (thicker & stronger with polymer bushings, Helwig & Roadmaster are popular brands)
3) Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers (Bilstein and Koni-FSD are most recommended)
4) Heavy Duty Front Steering Stabilizer (Safe-T-Plus Is most popular)
5) Rear Trac Bar (Henderson is most popular)

I suggest you read THIS and see if it applies to your PC.

Our 2007 2350 had serious handling issues when we bought it new 10 years ago.  With my previous experience with the motor home it replaced, I wasn't going to wait, so I took our PC to our trusted RV/Bus/Ambulance suspension shop.  They suggested everything I listed along with a proper wheel alignment.  It cost me a lot, $3,900 ten years ago but well worth it.  No regrets at all.  I really enjoy driving our PC.  And when conditions are horrid, I can still enjoy a cup of coffee and a bite to eat.  I can drive so much longer due to less fatigue.  My stops have been limited to potty breaks and/or gas...not because I am all worn out.
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