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1501  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area on: September 28, 2013, 01:09:31 pm
I looked at the pic you have unfinished cab, can visualize  where the cabinets above pass/driver are and how the screws help...  did the bottom of the cabinets have a lining or were they bare?

On your oven rattle if it comes back don't forget to look at where I replaced part of the inside mounting boards  with some padding on my replacement project.

sparky
My cabinets are finished inside.  A year or so after we bought our PC, I added rubber shelf liner to the insides for noise and protection, but some prior abrasion occurred, especially in the other cabinet.  I am ashamed to take a picture of that one.  I was thinking of trying a little cherry stain there.

I thought of your idea with my microwave rattle, but didn't have to go there after tightening the six front facing perimeter screws.  If it quickly returns, I'll be applying your padding idea.  Thanks for that tip.

I always wondered how PC-USA attached the cabinets inside the B+ cap area.  I still don't know how it was done.  My 4 per side screws (bolts Smile ) seem to have achored them down much better.  I only wished the cabinet floor was thicker wood.  I think it's just 1/4" finished plywood so there is still some flexing action.  Just not nearly as much..
1502  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area on: September 28, 2013, 12:51:26 pm
Ron, In your picture your screws appear to be flat head bolts. Are they what you used (and how) or are they just representative of the screws? Great post!
I used the screws pictured.  I suppose they are small bolts.  You can spin nuts on them.  I call them bolts when the screw has a hex head.
1503  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area on: September 27, 2013, 10:13:53 pm
The Tools I Used.
The flat head screws are 1.5" long


This done inside both cabinets.  The screws are 3" in from the cabinet opening.
Today I added a 4th screw more forward (seen in the pic) to help anchor the front corners of the cabinetry better, stabilizing the TV better too.
I really don't know if the cabinets are keeping the Ford roof from banging, or the tight connection to the Ford roof helps stabilize the cabinetry to prevent the banging.  Either way the banging is gone and the cabinets and TV don't bounce nearly as much on bumps as they did prior.


Irene drove the PC on a local bumpy road while I watched and listened.  During the test drive, I learned our microwave was making noises because the 6 perimeter mounting screws had come loose.  I tightened them up and the microwave got very quiet.  Now I hear the heat shield under the motor home making noise, but I don't have any desire to do something about that one.....at least not yet. Smile

Things have come a long way in just a few hours work.  I am very happy.  Now on to my drawer latches.
1504  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Conserving Battery Reserves Without Shore Power on: September 27, 2013, 02:32:52 pm
This trip in 2013, we had electric hookup for 2 nights over the 30 day period.  It was our first trip taken without our tow vehicle.  This meant we drove the PC everywhere.  Oh course the batteries get charged while driving.
  
Another thing we did different was running the generator for about an hour most mornings.  During that time we'd make coffee with our electric drip coffee maker, charge the coach batteries, laptop computer, camera, and cell phone batteries.  We also heated up the hot water tank for the day.

Between those two main changes, our battery reserves never went low so we never had to resort to the Black & Decker charger.

If you are wondering about hot water, we always resorted to propane when it came to showering up.
1505  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Because I love y'all the mostest on: September 27, 2013, 11:07:20 am
Very Nice!

If you are taking requests, I would love to see actual assembly of...

- the pre-assembly of a PC floor, laying of underbelly corregated plastic, block foam insulation, adhesives, and the fastening of the plywood.  Is that a vacu-bonded pre-assembly, then laid on the Ford chassis frame?
- the assembly of the PC floor to the Ford framing
- the pre-assembly of a side wall showing studs, window framing, and how the vacu-bond process is done there
- the same for the roof
- walls and roof assembly to the chassis and specific views on fastening
- B+ cap and wing wall assembly
- one window & the door installation
- fiberglass roof-to-wall assembly

I know they are not particularly selling points to someone shopping, but it would be great to see the assembling of the structural house.
1506  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area on: September 27, 2013, 09:44:58 am
Kermit is so helpfull. How many other companies do you know where the owner is so helpfull? Not many I bet.
In Total Agreement Tom!
1507  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area on: September 27, 2013, 09:43:58 am
Hey Ron, How about a photo showing where you installed the screws?
I can do that!
1508  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - Dead Center In The Headliner Area on: September 27, 2013, 08:39:17 am
Good News For Me.

I finally had some time to apply the advise from Kermit (and one of you) and it solved my banging.  Last night, inside each front cabinet, I screwed 3 flat head screws through the cabinet floor into the original Ford steel roof and tightened them as snug as the cabinet floors would allow with only a little dimple/distortion.  While inside the cabinets, I tightened every screw I could find.  Some I was able to make more snug.

I drove our PC to work this morning and the banging is gone.  At lunch I'll be driving the rig to the IL-EPA smog test station.

Since I questioned my cap-to-roof interconnetion, I followed Kermit's advise and palmed the B+ cap upward.  There was "Zero" effect, no movement at all so I conclude my cap is mounted on good.  That vibration movement I feel in between cap and roof while driving, I will consider normal.  Kermit also said that if my cap was loose, rain water would be dripping from the headliner while driving in a rain storm, and that has never happened.

So I think all is well, done with this thread.  Now it's off to looking into some other noises in back.  I think my microwave oven could use some looking into, maybe pulling it out and adding some adhesive back pads to minimize and dampen any movement and/or rubbing.  I also need to get to my converted 5-to-3 drawer galley cabinet, installing push button latches, the kind used on cabinet doors in other brand motor homes.  The 5 magnets per drawer didn't keep them closed during the worst of circumstances.

Thanks again all for your insights & experience related to my banging.....And Thank You Kermit!
1509  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rubber Floor Mat on: September 26, 2013, 02:56:52 pm
Ah!  I am watching it as I am typing here.  Thanks Tom.
1510  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rubber Floor Mat on: September 26, 2013, 12:06:44 pm
You can see in the new video that the cut away comes without any carpet. It is a great video, because Aimee loves us as much as we love her.
What new video?  I will have to sniff around the website.
1511  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: September 26, 2013, 12:03:12 pm
Linda and I bought our 2006 used 2100 at the factory in June.  

......to Glacier National Park in the spring and summer.
Welcome Steve and Linda!

We just got back from Glacier NP.  We were there for 10 days last August.  What a park.

The Going To The Sun Road vehicle restriction did not permit our PC-2350 on that road, but your PC-2100 will be permitted from either end, east or west.  You might need to fold in your outside mirrors when going up and down from the west because that road is more narrow than the east side.

If you like hiking for a full day, there are two hikes I highy recommend.
- Ice Berg Lake (4 miles there & 4 miles back)
- The Garden Wall from Logan Pass to Granite Park Chalet, then down to a lower parking area called The Loop.  There you take the free shuttle back up to Logan Pass to get back to your 2100.  That is 13 miles one way which includes the turn-off to see Grinnell Glacier from above.  Don't cut that short.  Most of the hike is down hill, but it does take all day.  Start early AM, the views are awesome.

Avalanche Lake is 5 miles round trip.  Hidden Lake is less.  Both are very nice.

Bears are abound, especially on the east side Many Glacier, both black and Grizzly.  You can't miss them.  Just watch for people pulled off the side of the road.  But no worries using common sense with food and clean-up, at the camp site and while hiking too.  We camped in Rising Sun with a black bear who visited the camp ground often.  No worries at all with any hard shell RV.  We enjoyed many camp fires in the evening and the bear never bothered us.  He did like the raspberry patch all around our camp site which had him sniffing around during one day that we witnessed.

Welcome to the PC family!
1512  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Report on alignment and handling of our 2552 on: September 26, 2013, 11:33:25 am
Yes, agree with my southern neighbor.  My next 2350 will probably be on a f450 chassis.
I assume you meant E450.  Regardless, keep in-mind that a 2100, 2350, and the 2400 built on an E450 will have an extremely rough ride because the chassis is over-kill for the application.  Some people on this forum talk about their 2551 on E450 having a very rough ride.  Ten-ish years ago the 2551 was built on the E350 but PC-USA switched to the E450 somewhere along the way, I assume because it was too close to or exceeding the max load limit.  But now that the later E350 handles 1000 pounds more weight, I wonder if the 2551 could once again be offered on the E350 chassis to get a softer ride.  Especially if it lacks a slide-out.

It is a debatable trade-off, a softer ride versus load capability.  The E450 does offer more cabable brakes so there are other benefits to the E450.  You can never have too much braking power when towing.
1513  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rubber Floor Mat on: September 26, 2013, 10:02:08 am
Stuart said the carpet was already in there and it would be $500 to tear it out and put in a mat. We skipped that option... and didn't totally buy the story that Phoenix bought the chassis with our color of carpet already in the cab.
I do wonder if the cut-away chassis specific for RV application is delivered to the PC factory with no floor covering of any kind.  The RV cut-away chassis does not come with outside mirrors, seats, dash panel inserts and other things lacking because the RV outfitters like PC-USA install their own.
1514  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rubber Floor Mat on: September 25, 2013, 02:45:29 pm
The mat appears to be the same Ford would install on the assembly line inside an industrial cut-away chassis for box truck applications.  It might be had through any Ford dealer parts department.
1515  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Questions from a Newbie on: September 25, 2013, 01:06:52 pm
As to the rocker switch on the panel to provide momentary charging, I have always just carried a good pair of heavy duty battery cables...
Bingo!

I carry an extra long set of heavy duty jumper cables and have used them when my chassis battery died, jumping power from the pair in back to the under-hood dead one up front.  It worked great.  Having them along on trips is also handy to help a stranded camping neighbor.

The rocker switch up front by the driver's left side is pretty much a novelty to me.  It won't charge a truly dead/failed battery, only help a discharged one, and then it takes a very long time.  Jumper cables are always dependable and quick.

Adding: About the hot water tank plastic drain plug.
If memory serves me right, that requires a 15/16" socket.  I bought just the socket and keep it loose inside my RV tool box along with my travel socket set.  Just make sure your HWT socket works with your socket set.  It may require an adaptor.

The inverter is a real sweet feature, but it won't power up the serious stuff.  It's great for watching TV while in transit or parked.  It will also power the coffee maker.  But when parked we've learned to just run the generator for those 5-10 minutes for coffee as not pull-down the battery reserves.  But no concern while driving because the engine up front supplies adequate amperage through the inverter.

PCs are really nice rigs for dry camping (no hook-ups).  Our trip last month was for 30 days out west.  We had 110v hook-up for only 2 nights (or was it 3?) of the 30, and only because it was available.  Never any water/sewage hook ups.  Just dump and fill as needed.  This considering just us two adults.  But I could see it being a bit different with kids.

BTW:  Welcome Doneworking/Paul!
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