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1516  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Invisible Jumpy Lines on: October 06, 2011, 05:46:56 pm
Then have at it Aimee.  Thanks for the effort.  At least you now understand the "Jumpy".
1517  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Invisible Jumpy Lines on: October 06, 2011, 05:44:13 pm
It must be an IE8 thing alone.  Don't worry Aimee.  I assumed everyone dealt with it but that is not the case.  It's not worth any more effort.

Thanks for looking into it.
1518  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Invisible Jumpy Lines on: October 06, 2011, 03:34:51 pm
I use Internet Explorer 8 both at home and at work.  Home is Vista, work is XP, both with Office 2007.  I don't plan on changing to IE9 anytime soon.  Here at work is a global decision.  At home I syncronize with work as much as possible for consistency.
1519  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Invisible Jumpy Lines on: October 06, 2011, 02:10:51 pm
Hi Aimee,

The “Jumpy Lines” thing started happening I believe since you changed from the green forum environment.  I think it happens only when replying, not when initially posting.  But I am not 100% certain.

I don't know if it is related to how many characters are typed or how many lines or "Enters" are used.  It might be a combination of things.  I suspect it might be related to all the little people expressions we can choose from along the top.

Try this to see if  “jumpy” happens to you.  Reply to this thread.  In the gray text edit window, hold the "Enter" down for 20 seconds or so.  Then start typing.  You should see "jumpy" happening.  With every key stroke the screen scrolls to show what you are typing for a split second, then jumps to the top or near the top of your reply.

We end up typing blind after a while.  Then we proof read by scrolling down.  Any editing, and it immediately reoccurs.  It is consistent.  I can count on it happening after so many lines of text, though the quantity seems to vary from reply to reply.


On this reply that I am typing right now, "jumpy" starts at the "3" and is always there from that point down.

Copy and paste my text into your reply and the same should happen for you.  Maybe this is a "Windows Only" problem.  You work on a Mac, right?
1520  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: power drain - batteries flat after 4 days of sitting on: October 05, 2011, 11:26:15 pm
You have the same model year as we do, so you have the same Tripp-Lite inverter and electrical setup.

What you are experiencing is typical.  You just need to get your charging/inverting electronics setup for the camping style you do.
Click Here To Find Out How
1521  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Moving Front TV to Better Location (for me) on: October 05, 2011, 05:13:56 pm
I can offer a little insight regarding the amount of space behind the main TV.

If your hand is not too large, you can squeeze it behind the TV through either of the side cabinets.  There is not a whole lot of hidden space, but if you build a new cabinet front "forward" just enough as not interfere with the opening of the side doors, then you'd have some decent space.

I understand your desire to relocate the TV.  We noticed that uncomfortable TV angle during our first PC with slide out experience at a local RV show.  I recall a few people mounting a smaller TV just to the left of the entry door on the wall.

Here is another idea, mounting the TV on an opposing cabinet door.  You open the door to angle the TV for better viewing.
I do realize the slide out is closed up in this picture, but it demonstrates how watching TV (TV in factory position) while in transit doesn't work out very well.
1522  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar panels on: October 05, 2011, 03:07:50 pm
I got the diagram Lou.  Thanks!

I wonder if the same 2x2 box aluminum studs are used throughout all walls and ceiling.

The wood/foam/plastic floor sandwich has what looks like a nice strong steel box framing as seen on their website slideshow on the making of a PC.

Has everyone here watched and listened to their "construction" slideshow?

Here it is:
1523  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar panels on: October 05, 2011, 12:49:22 pm

Remember the refer vent idea applies only to a unit where the fridge is NOT in a slideout.

Could you email me a copy of that 2350 roof diagram?  I would love to have it for reference.  Any clarity from Phoenix USA on the style/shape of the metal rafters used?
1524  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Towing with a PC on: October 04, 2011, 05:50:51 pm

Your logic makes perfect sense to me.  Cheers  I like that idea a lot.

The only thing I would suggest is to prepare your PC-2100 for a significant towing condition.  That is to do what we had done to improve the handling of our 2007 E350 PC-2350 motor home with tow vehicle.  A travel trailer will play hard-ball with your PC's rear end and these upgrades will combat that very well.

These either replace existing components, or are added where there is none.  A 2006 E350 chassis will not have any kind of rear stabilizer bar, nor a rear trac bar.  The original Ford shocks, front stabilizer bar, and steering stabilizer are substandard for the extreme condition you are considering.  The upgrades I state below will be real nice to have even when not towing, so it's a 2x benefit.

- heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars (Roadmaster, Helwig or other equivalent)
- rear trac bar (Henderson or other equivalent)
- E350/E450 motor home specific shock absorbers (specifically Koni or Bilstein)
- heavy duty front steering stabilizer (Safe-T-Plus or other equivalent)
- realign your front wheels (often requiring offset bushings because the alignment can be so far out)

Given the heavy tongue weight of a travel trailer, you might also consider rear air bags, though I have no first-hand experience with them on a PC.
1525  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Auto drain valves on: October 04, 2011, 05:33:28 pm
You are right......But that takes the fun out of it.  Smile
1526  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar panels on: October 04, 2011, 04:55:49 pm
To find the steel rafters, I advise to get a pair of magnets out from an old computer hard drive.  They are extremely strong.  They should be able to find the steel beam easily.  These are examples of computer hard drive magnets.

Ask the PC factory this question:  Is the steel rafter a box beam, an "L" beam or a "T" beam.  If a "T", you won't want to hit the center.  If an "L" or box beam, you will.  Get instruction on how to best locate and screw into a rafter.

About getting the wiring from the roof solar panel down to the inverter where you'll need to make the final connection.  Assuming your fridge is not in a slideout, it has a roof-top propane exhaust vent.  Run the solar panel wires down that chimney.  The wires come out the bottom just inches from the inverter.  The exhaust vent is not going to damage the wires as there is little heat.  The chimney is for propane fumes.

This was told to me by the PC dealer I bought my rig from in 2007 when I was considering large roof top solar panels.  I did eventually decide against the investment.
1527  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Auto drain valves on: October 04, 2011, 03:43:01 pm
On the 2350, both valves are physically close to eachother, and close to the mascerator pump.  Both are heard with equal volume of "eaeaeaear".  If you look underneath the rig when flipping a switch, you can see each valve open and close.
1528  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Planning trip to utah, Colorado, and the Grand Canyon on: October 03, 2011, 05:27:35 pm
Our campsite shown here.......
We would see the canyon light up at night from the river tours.
But the tours didn't get close to our site as we were upstream a little too far to get the full lighting effect.
At night, the tiny little river nats went right through our window screens.  Where are those bats when you need them?
1529  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: battery storage/ maint on: October 03, 2011, 02:54:06 pm
I advise to remove all 3 batteries, bring them home and store them inside where temps are controlled.  I would not worry about starting up the rig in the winter either.  People do that, but I really question the benefits.  Others will chime in with opposing views to mine so you will have to decide for yourself.

When placing the motor home in storage....
- top off the main fuel tank
- completely drain the black and gray tanks, and also the sanicon by using the 3" poop drain cap
- completely drain, then put in the pink anti-freeze in the freash water system
- put 80psi in all tires to minimize ground contact
- cover all windows with sunshade material because using your regular shades just degrades them from the sun
- open all cabinet doors, fridge and freezer to circulate air better
- turn your dash board to max a/c to deter rodents from getting into the interior through that air iinlet
- place mouse/rat poison on the floor, just in-case
- don't leave any windows or roof vents open
- a full RV cover or tarp is not required, but never hurts

If you inspect it on rare occasion, bring the chassis battery with you.  You might need to start the engine to heat up and dry out the interior of any dampness.  But if it's well sealed and fairly dry, don't.

If you do run the engine, make sure the dangling RV battery cables are insulated.
Also run the generator.
1530  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: October 02, 2011, 01:15:06 am
I'm catching a 6am flight out of Seattle, on my way to Elkhart.  I'll be picking up my new 2552 on Monday!!
I will start heading back west either Monday or Tuesday, depending on what time we wrap things up.  It's going to be a long solo trip, but the DW will be waiting, as she could not come because she just had a proceedure done on her knee.

I plan to take my time (to a degree) and enjoy myself!!!

For the non-local customer, the factory advises to camp one night locally to make sure you are satisfied before heading home.  You might want to do that.  If you think something isn't right, return the next morning and the factory makes you their highest priority to get you on your way.  Sometimes you think something is not working right when it's opperator error.  But sometimes they will need to repair, adjust, or replace something they did not catch in final inspection.  Sometimes it just the flipping of a switch too, furthering your education.

The first time we camped in a cold climate, we were in the Rockies.  The furnace didn't work.  I found a switch located behind the outdoor panel.  Things like that can happen.....nobody's fault.
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