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1576  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Stop Rust on: July 16, 2012, 05:46:30 pm
Thanks for the tip Barry-Sue.

I should give Chassis Saver a try since I aready have worked with POR-15.

One thing I recall about POR-15, it had something to do with exposure to the sun.  It goes on Jet-Black but with UV exposure, it supposely turns cloudy to a mikly gray color.  Given I painted over my POR-15, I'll never see that happen.  Does Chassis Saver state the same UV discoloration?

One thing I noticed working with POR-15 on my pickup truck, and I assume the Chassis Saver would behave similarly.  When I first applied it with a brush on the top surfaces of the frame, a few drips ran down the side.  I had moved on working in another area, later noticing those drips.  They had spread horizontally against gravity as much as a half inch in each direction.  It was quite impressive how POR-15 penetrated the metal like that.

Backing up the point about getting that stuff on your skin.  I did get a little on me.  It was nearly 2 months before my skin shed the last of it.  Good thing it didn't drip on my face.

Prior to applying the POR-15, with the truck's bed off the frame, I banged the frame with a hammer to first get off all loose rust.  Much rust looked like surface-only but after banging, solid-looking material came flying off.  That took two evenings.

That project had me in a boat-load of regret.  But $600 later and all those man hours behind me, it took about 6 months to appreciate the vehicle.  Four years later and all remains well.
1577  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Stop Rust on: July 14, 2012, 07:10:25 pm
Interesting product.  I wonder if it is similar to POR-15 beause they run about the same cost per ounce.  I used POR-15 on my pickup truck frame.  Four Chicago winters later (with all that salt) and it is holding up beautifully.  Though I did apply 2 coats and a top coat of Rustoleum paint.

I really need to do something about the back side of my entry step.  The sheet metal in back has concerning rust.  I can see it well from below and also from the battery tray when slid out.  One more thing to take care of.

Thanks for sharing.
1578  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: On-Vehicle Tire Repair on: July 13, 2012, 10:07:48 am
I hear you Tom.  Fix-A-Flat, Slime, whatever.....once you carry it, then comes the flat tire.  Don't carry it and you won't get a flat. Smile

Carrying a compressor that can handle our tires would be a very good idea for even the novice.  Many flats are slower leaks.  You could pump in 80psi (max as stated on tire) to get you to the nearest repair shop "who may plug your tire".  I just had to add that last 5 words in there.   LOL  Just trying to be funny here, but lame at it.
1579  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Scheduled Ford service on: July 13, 2012, 07:42:03 am
Also when draining the oil take a screwdriver and put a hole in the bottom of the old filter. Let it drain, makes for a lot cleaner job.
Yep!  I do that all the time.  Thanks for bringing it up Billy.

When cleaning up, one of the last things I do is pierce the top of the oil filter (opposite the mounting) right near the edge using a hammer and sharp small flat blade screw driver.  The hole lets air in the backside of the filter to get the oil to drain freely.  I place it in the funnel on top of waste jug overnight.  Next day, the filter is nicely drained.  No more oily mess to deal with on garbage day.  Good for the enviornment too.
1580  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: On-Vehicle Tire Repair on: July 12, 2012, 09:15:20 pm
the danger is the aerosol propellant.
Got it!  Thanks.
1581  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: On-Vehicle Tire Repair on: July 12, 2012, 05:29:29 pm
if you use slime, please tell the next tire changer before they remove the tire . They can get hurt if you don't.
Interesting Tom as to your reason why.  I did not hear of that.  I dismount/mount and balance tires on a regular basis, and make tire repairs as well but admittedly never dealt with a slime'd tire.  I wonder what the danger could be.

I should have stated in my intial post that I don't recommend using the slime itself as it is a short term repair, meant only to get you to a repair shop.

I am surprised of the "thumbs-down" replies for using a plug on a clean puncture.  The sticky rope plug leaves a nice firm well-bonded mushroom on the inside of the tire, much the same as with a from-the-inside repair.  But Jerry, the data from that "official" source is hard to argue against.   shrug  Hands-on experience will always get nix'd by manufacture specs.
1582  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / On-Vehicle Tire Repair on: July 12, 2012, 01:22:17 pm
I shared this on another forum and thought I'd share it with my PC family.

I bought a tire repair kit that I hope never to use.  But if I get a clean flat like from a nail, I hope not to take the tire off the rig, making the repair on-vehicle by using the common sticky rope plugs.  I did such a tire repair once many years ago on my old motor home and it worked out beautifully.  But I didn't have a compressor with me in those days so I made the repair at a gas station and used their air pump.  Today with this kit I can do it anywhere, for myself or for a fellow camper in need.

This is the kit I bought at Walmart maybe 4 years ago.  They don't sell this exact kit any longer, but something very similar offered from the same "slime" company.  The pictures make it look real big, but it is a very compact, easy to store in a PC.

1583  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Our new 2100!!! on: July 12, 2012, 08:09:35 am
1584  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: looking for a reliable used (older model) car on: July 10, 2012, 02:34:24 pm
It feels kind of weird to find myself on the other end of the "need a car" scenario, but here I am
Many of us take our financial "down" turn sometime during our lives.  When I was out of work for 14 months, financial dark times were straight ahead for my household, but then that one call came through.  Eight years later and all is still well.  God has been gracious... and good.

Aimee, I'll be mentioning you daily in my morning prayer time, for provision in your life.  Let me know when it's time to stop, okay?
1585  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: looking for a reliable used (older model) car on: July 10, 2012, 11:46:45 am
Boy Aimee, I wish I could help you out, but we are many hundreds of miles away near Chicago.

As you might recall, I volunteer helping the under-resourced, with basic transportation needs through our church.  Most recipients are single moms.  The C.A.R.S. Ministry program Here once used the phrase "Cars For Moms".

Not associated with that organization, just between you, me, and the seller, I might have a 1996 Dodge Avenger with 140,000 miles, in good mechanical (safe) opperating condition becoming available by end of month, maybe sooner.  It has a dented driver door which does not hinder functionality.  Issues due to age are A/C not working and small fluid leaks that are not serious enough to address.  Price not yet sure, but hoping to offer it for $1,000 to someone in a situation such as yours.

I'll purchase the car myself with the seller signing the title.  But I won't sign it as the buyer.  I'll go through the car and make sure it's safe as the seller states.  Any additional investment I make in parts will increase the selling price of the car by that amount.  When I find a buyer, they'll come to my house with cash and sign the title as the new owner.  I "officially" stay out of the deal to make it most affordable.  I'll make no profit, doing it only to help out people in financial difficulty who try hard to make life work, needing a little break in this area of their life by getting them setup with good reliable and "affordable" transportation.

If I get this car, it checks out good, and you are interested in it, you would have to take an Amtrak train to Chicago's Union Station, then leave there on the Metra train to the Elgin Station by me.  Living in warmer Kentucky, I do realize the A/C not working would be a big deal.  The car is also a 2-door coupe which makes 3 or more occupants more of a hassle.  I really don't think it's a good fit for you but it's a proposal none-the-less.
1586  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: OMG he's back on: July 09, 2012, 11:52:55 pm
Gary, Your new inverter is likely the 1800 watt model, but double check your inverter's paperwork in the gray vinyl bag.  On the bottom of the crock pot, it states the wattage.  Our small crock pot at home is rated at 100 watts, and our large one is 250 watts.  Based on this data, I would say it is very safe to do as you are considering, especially if using a small 100 watt crock pot.  Understand that you wouldn't want to opperate off the batteries alone for too long a period, but you should do well driving along on the open road.  The chassis alternator should supply more than enough power to cook with a crock pot.

The first time you cook while driving, pay very close attention to the dash board instruments.  If your battery needle jumps and stays low, then I am surely wrong.  But I do think you'll be just fine.  Just don't use a monster power hog crock pot model that feeds a boy scout troop.  Smile

Keep in-mind that you may also want to watch a movie with surround sound when on the open road while the crock pot is on.  So the smaller the crock pot, the better.  You don't want to limit yourself if you can avoid it.
1587  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Scheduled Ford service on: July 08, 2012, 11:09:16 pm
I went to my factory shop manual but could not find anything about oil capacity.  Where did you find that info in your factory shop manual
Hi Bob,

My 2007 E-series 3 volume shop manual is published by Ford.  In volume #2 on page 303-01B-1 is the specs chart for the 6.8L engine.  It is on the very first page after the intro pages with indexing.  Left-hand column, lower section, it states the oil capacity as 6.9 quarts with filter.

303-01B is the section exclusive for the 6.8L engine, coming after the smaller gas V8 engine sections.
1588  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Scheduled Ford service on: July 08, 2012, 10:51:02 pm

The manual specifies semi-synthetic so full synthetic seems reasonable to use.  With our tow vehicle pushing from behind, the engine gets extremely close to red-lining when using lower gears down long grades.  The full synthetic provides extra peace of mind.  And these days the cost of conventional oil is quite expensive, closing the gap with the cost of full synthetic.  I used to buy conventional oil for 99 cents a quart on sale.  No such sale these days.
1589  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Scheduled Ford service on: July 08, 2012, 05:49:57 pm
The Ford owners manual on my 2012 shows 6 quarts.  Are you sure about 7?
lmichael, read my post up one in the "UPDATE".  Barry-Sue is right.  It is in-fact 7 quarts.
1590  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Scheduled Ford service on: July 08, 2012, 02:40:39 pm
7?  I thought it was 6.  You confirmed it Barry-Sue so I must be wrong.  Or maybe they added a quart since 2007.

My owners manual does not cover the 6.8L engine.  What is that about?  It says 6.0 quarts but covers only one engine, the V8.  So I dug into the huge 3 volume service manual for my 2007 chassis.  The 6.8L-V10 is stated to take 6.9 quarts when replacing the oil filter.  So Barry-Sue is right.  It is SEVEN quarts of oil.

I am really good about watching fluid levels.  Maybe I've been putting in 7 quarts all along.  I do admit it has been a very long time (but not long in miles) since my last oil change.  I am updating my earlier post to reflect the 7 quart requirement.

Great Catch Barry-Sue.  I gave you a well deserved "Helpful"
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