Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 106 107 [108] 109 110 ... 191
1606  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: February 06, 2013, 12:37:13 am

Assuming you have the same tires as most PC owners do, the max tire pressure as stated on the tires is 80 psi.  You don't want to exceed 80 psi.

PC-USA places a sticker on the driver door frame that states what the tire pressure should be for your particular model PC.

On my 2007 PC-2350, the sticker says 60 psi for the rear tires, and 65 psi for the front tires.  But I add an extra 5 psi all around because my tires visually look a little under-inflated and also to save a little gas.  But more air = harder ride.  I once tried 80 psi all around and the rig hit every crack in the road real hard.  Needless to say, at our first stop I let out some air.

I keep procrastinating, but I should weigh my rig while on a trip and find out from the tire manufacture's website what the tire pressure really should be.

Oops...I see I have repeated much of what others have said.  Then you heard it twice or thrice.
1607  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Are you my big brother??? on: February 05, 2013, 03:41:22 pm
So which one is the airplane?

VERY COOL picture.  I have to share this elsewhere.
1608  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: MATS on: February 05, 2013, 11:49:34 am
Yep!  We use the foam drawer & cabinet liners as shown here yielding the same "quiet" results.  As you can see in the picture, paper towels in-between pots and such also helps.

But for the outdoor storage compartment and entry step, we use carpet runner material sold by the foot.  Just slip out and shake off the dirt.
1609  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 05, 2013, 09:21:12 am
We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue that sounds about right.

I used POR-15 (it's black) on my pickup truck frame with the cargo bed removed.  A little got on my skin through a hole in a rubber glove.  I think it finally went away after 6 weeks.  My skin had to shed for it to go away.  It would not come off otherwise.

My little 1996 Ford Ranger truck sees Chicago salty winters, and I never wash it.  I used POR-15 on it's badly rusted frame 4 years ago and most of the frame is still well protected.  I did bang off the loose rust before application.

I'll have to check out your chassis saver since POR-15 is not easily found in stores around town.
1610  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 05, 2013, 12:20:03 am
I moved the monitor and mounted a Scanguage-II

I need to do something with the scared headliner.  Maybe I could find a low profile sun glass tray from a junk yard vehicle.

Removing the original Ford mirror was a bit tricky because there are no screws to remove.  Following Ford's Service manual, I used a thin flat blade bent screwdriver and pry'd the black bottom away from the silver metal tab, while lifting upward.

Regarding the wiring and all, the trick in making the project easy was removing the center twin dome light (2 screws) and also the two visor hooks (1 screw each).  Then the headliner with curtain rod was easily dropped to fish wires around.  The original mounting pedistal for the monitor in the headliner is both screwed and bonded with double-sided tape.  It took some TLC to separate the headliner from the adhesive tape which stayed stuck to the mount.
1611  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 04, 2013, 05:20:39 pm
I sprayed the stair box with rust sealer spray and then covered it with 3/8 closed cell adhesive foil backed insulation.  This insulation really helped with road noise coming up thru and I am sure it helps with heat/cold.  Very inexpensive and looks really nice when complete.
The only concern with the adhesive insulation would be for returning rust without knowing it.  But I like the sound deadener idea.

I wish I had some left over POR-15 but it is so expensive and I need so little.  That is ideal for stop-rust, then insulate over it.
1612  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 04, 2013, 02:14:57 pm
With my 2007 2350, the only serious area of rust is the back side of the metal door-entry step.  When you look up from below (use a large mirror and light if you have to) that metal box that forms the entry step appears completely unprotected.  I need to do something with mine before it gets out of control.

I wonder if that is the same rust you are battling.  Maybe it has come through from the back side.  Maybe the real solution is sealing the back side to stop it from bleading to the visible side.
1613  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC Projects Over Winter on: February 04, 2013, 12:39:11 pm
2 frazzled,
Thanks for the tip, but I will be trying my best to get every square inch out of that base cabinet, with adequate minimum clearances.  I don't want to hit the back wall or other obstructions with any drawers.  I do have a table saw and other wood working tools and even some virgin 3/4" maple hardwood material on-hand.  I should be able to make these 3 drawers better/stronger  than if utilizing Ikea materials.
Years ago for our first motor home, I built this drawer which is very generic.  I plan to do it more professional-like for the PC, also utilizing the old PC ball bearing drawer glides..

I should have included your concern for I too wondered before I pulled out the drawers.  The drawer modules do not support the counter top in any way for they stop many inches short of the counter top.  The left side of the left drawers seem to be attached to the back wall.  But I am feeling in the blind and am not sure of it.  Whatever attachments to the back wall or floor, I will duplicate or improve upon.
Good catch.  Thanks for bringing that up.
1614  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC Projects Over Winter on: February 04, 2013, 11:23:18 am
Okay, I pulled out all six roller-glide drawers and looked at the base cabinet interior.

PC builds the galley base cabinet with a smart production approach utilizing modules.  The center three drawers is one module, and the right side 3 drawers is another module.  The right drawers are 1 to 2 inches" deeper to the back wall.  The top two drawers are deepest vertically to help items clear the recessed stove top.  But the obstruction is maybe 1.5", not that much.  I compared my PC to my house kitchen drawers.  I am making the new single PC top drawer one inch vertically deeper than at home which means only 1/2" less than "home-normal" where the stove hangs down.  For my single extra wide top drawer, I will put in dividers to easily identify taller versus lower clearence areas.

I hope to reconstruct the cabinet interior without the use of a back wall as is required with the current modular design.  This will allow me to have deeper drawers.  I won't know my limits until after I disassemble the two drawer modules.  I anticipate differnet drawer depths for best utilization of the cabinet interior volume.

Working with Carol Simms, moments ago I ordered 3 custom size drawer fronts, and two rails.  Once I have them in hand, I will start this project.  Until then, it's back to the backup monitor and Scanguage-II.  I will take step-by-step pics for those interested, with costs too.  The hard part for me will be making three large strong drawers that are road worthy with significant weight inside them.

So I guess my Bed Bath & Beyond drawer mod will never see any use.  Anyone interested in it assembled to half rails with spacer/bushings attached, send me a PM and we can work out a price and shipping.  All you'd need to do then is to slide out your butcher block with rails, and slide in this one with rails.
1615  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 03, 2013, 07:44:32 am
Keep in mind the reason for the "when towing" fuel economy being not so bad is because once at our destinations, all locally driven miles in parks, cities visited. and all other poor gas mileage conditions, are done with the tow vehicle.  The PC is basically driven and towing only on the open road.
1616  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 03, 2013, 12:42:04 am
BTW Ron, I know this is off topic but you pulled a car with your PC and I am curious what kind of mileage hit did you take on fuel towing?
Here is our tracked fuel economy, trip averaging.

2007 E350 chassis with no mods to engine.
10.2 no towing
9.6 towing 2200 pound Toyota MR2
9.2 towing 4200 pound Jeep Liberty
1617  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 02, 2013, 11:03:27 am
It never hurts to ask Kermit, but I highly doubt he would change the process  in constructing his primary walls.  Maybe a question to ask would be, "How tight is the block insulation that is added inside the walls?  If I paid more, could I be guarranteed a better insulated motor home with existing insulation metheds?"

Yes the slide out is a source of cold & heat, and also insect infestation.
Do you have the thermal window pain option?  We have thermal windows.  We notice a very big change for the better.  Cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  The interior is also much more quiet in camp grounds, truck stops, rest areas, Walmarts, on-the-road, everywhere.  That was a pleasent surprise.

Of coarse another huge source of air infilteration is the cab up front.  Other than sun shades, curtians, and home made quilted walls, there is little that can be done.  Be sure your dashboard heater/defroster is in the "Off" or "Recirculate" position as it closes the front vents to the outside.

Our 2007-2350 has thermal windows and no slide out, and we find it nicely insulated, very comfortable in sub freezing temps.  The only sense of cold draft comes from the cab area, but we don't attempt to do anything about it becasuse we generally don't stay where it gets so cold.  Sometimes camping at high altitude in September, it gets below freezing at night.  I think controlling "drafts" is the biggest challenge.
1618  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 05:28:56 pm
I just ran CCleaner again.  Some things are fixed.  Not everything though.

Some pictures here still have some red X's.,91.0.html
The X's are controlled in PC testimonials.
1619  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 01, 2013, 01:32:46 pm
Ron: are you talking about taking your door off completely on the right side and making a stack of drawers?
I am seriously looking into......

- Remove the right side door and all 6 small drawers, nothing reused except for some drawer glides.
- Remove the three 2" wide cabinet pieces (2 horizontal rails & 1 vertical stile) that are in between the six drawers.
- Install 2 horizontal cabinet rails, finishing the cabinet to accomodate 3 large drawers that would span across where the six are today.
- The interior cabinet wall divider between left and right side drawers would need to be removed or modified.
- The depth of the new drawers would be determined by the closest back wall obstruction.
    I think the new drawers can be deeper (farther to the back wall) than the old ones but further research is needed..
1620  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 01:23:51 pm
Now my little shrug s are X'd
Pages: 1 ... 106 107 [108] 109 110 ... 191