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1621  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Weight overload issue in 2910D duals on: February 11, 2013, 01:25:08 am
This is the first time I heard that any PC is over-loaded in any particular corner.  It sounds like your planned strategy is good.  Make sure those two tires are maintained at max tire pressure which is 80 psi for Michelins.

On other forums, I read all the time about rigs being over-loaded, some before people load it up for a trip.  It is a very common problem of which there is little one can do about it.

I still need to weigh our rig on all 4 corners while on a long trip.....full tank of gas, full fresh water, and empty waste tanks.  I've assumed that since we are slideless, over-loading is not a concern, but weighing in is also good to determine proper tire pressure.
1622  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: The ultimate "white out" condition!! on: February 10, 2013, 07:06:00 pm
Thank you so much for accepting the snow that we here in the Chicago area had rejected.   ThankYou

We have been quite fortunate last winter and again this winter so far.  I know it will come around and whack us hard eventually.  Hopefully it will wait until after I retire and we have joined the PC gang down in Florida.  But that is too many years ahead for me to plan for.
1623  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Baby Seat on: February 08, 2013, 02:45:15 pm
Bob is the one!

Bob even had a picture of his setup in his 2350.  That was the inspiration I needed to swap the barrel seat for the 3rd captain seat.

Thanks again Bob for that!  We do appreciate the better seat for multiple reasons.  Maybe one day for a grand child too.
1624  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Baby Seat on: February 08, 2013, 11:20:10 am
I feel the front passenger seat is the safest place in a PC for a baby seat.  I would simply set the seat all the way back to clear a deploying airbag.  Roll-over protection is best there and is least suseptible to flying objects.  My 2007 does not have an airbag turn-off switch.  Does the 2009-2013 have one?

The second safest place is the barrel chair with "D" ring achoring.  Actually not the barrel chair, but rather a 3rd front seat type as we have here seen to the right.  Like the barrel chair, it faces any direction, locking forward and sideways.  But it's high back is a natural shield to flying objects thrown forward.  It's nice to have 3 people able to sit in such close proximity to enjoy conversation and such.  That 3rd seat works nicely for it.

More recently the 3rd seat has been replaced by a euro chair, but I don't know if it is safety rated with the mobility it offers.

1625  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Baby Seat on: February 07, 2013, 11:10:19 pm
I forgot who it was, but someone had the factory install a "D" ring at the base of the swivel barrel seat, the seat between the passenger seat and the entry door.  This to secure a baby seat properly.  It sure seems easy enough to add one yourself wherever you want the seat.  If one day we have a grand child, I plan to add a "D" ring myself.

"D" rings are sold wherever hardware is sold.
1626  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Phoenix Crusiers at SE FMCA rally on: February 07, 2013, 01:18:13 pm
I have spent 2007 thru 2011 spreading the news about the Phoenix Cruiser on and I think I did good getting the word out.  Since, I let more recent owners carry that torch for the most part.  But I do back them up with historical reliability & customer service.

Like you say Carol, Phoenix Cruisers seem to have fallen into the "B" national database, though it is surely a "C" constructed vehicle.

Building a class B, motor home manufactures start with this.

Builing a class B+ or C, they start with this, most often a van-based, but sometimes pickup-truck based.
They are delivered to the RV companies without a rear wall, seats, or outside mirrors.
The rear wall gets a thick plastic shrink wrapping to provide temporary protection for the interior.

I wish there was the right pic that showed the delivered RV chassis.
Here is the chassis setup for a cargo truck, but it has mirrors and seats.
The RV chassis has a disposable cafeteria seat that gets tossed. It is used for lot-driving only.

Going further, the class-A gets built on one of these.
Engine up front (most often gasoline powered)

Engine in back (diesel pusher used for larger & high end class-As)

And Super-Cs start with these types when people want a big "C" with a diesel engine.
Of coarse the Sprinter is the choice diesel  for the little fellows.

1627  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Phoenix Crusiers at SE FMCA rally on: February 07, 2013, 10:13:22 am
It is good to read that PCs are a hot seller at the shows this year.  I hope their momentum continues.

I always thought PC-USA should offer these options to boost sales.

1) 2100 and 2350 with E350 chassis, offer as an option, the smaller 5.4L-V8 to save $1185 MSRP and for better fuel economy.  The smallest PC models really don't need the 6.8L-V10.  I tow a 4300 pound Jeep with my 2350 with V10 and I think the smaller V8 would still work for me....surely no issue if I never tow.

2) For all PC models on E350/E450, offer a seamless class-C cab-over bunk option.  It doesn't have to be monster sized.  It could utilize all current connections to the B+ cap so it is only one differnet primary component, making it cheap for the company, and affordable for families who would then find PCs much more practical.  Maybe even some retired couples would prefer it for extra bulk storage.
1628  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: New shelf in 2910 on: February 06, 2013, 12:51:34 am
gradygal has it together, especially when it comes to these kinds of things.   ThumbsUp
1629  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 06, 2013, 12:46:27 am

Such products say to just paint right over the rust, but I advise to remove loose flaking rust.  Quickly going over rust with coarse sand paper would be adequate.  I consider it critical for the metal to be clean of road grime, salt and also to be dry.  It never hurts to wipe the area with laquer thinner or rubbing alcohol to remove rust dust and any oil, though not an absolute requirement unless condition is excessive.
1630  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure on: February 06, 2013, 12:37:13 am

Assuming you have the same tires as most PC owners do, the max tire pressure as stated on the tires is 80 psi.  You don't want to exceed 80 psi.

PC-USA places a sticker on the driver door frame that states what the tire pressure should be for your particular model PC.

On my 2007 PC-2350, the sticker says 60 psi for the rear tires, and 65 psi for the front tires.  But I add an extra 5 psi all around because my tires visually look a little under-inflated and also to save a little gas.  But more air = harder ride.  I once tried 80 psi all around and the rig hit every crack in the road real hard.  Needless to say, at our first stop I let out some air.

I keep procrastinating, but I should weigh my rig while on a trip and find out from the tire manufacture's website what the tire pressure really should be.

Oops...I see I have repeated much of what others have said.  Then you heard it twice or thrice.
1631  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Are you my big brother??? on: February 05, 2013, 03:41:22 pm
So which one is the airplane?

VERY COOL picture.  I have to share this elsewhere.
1632  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: MATS on: February 05, 2013, 11:49:34 am
Yep!  We use the foam drawer & cabinet liners as shown here yielding the same "quiet" results.  As you can see in the picture, paper towels in-between pots and such also helps.

But for the outdoor storage compartment and entry step, we use carpet runner material sold by the foot.  Just slip out and shake off the dirt.
1633  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 05, 2013, 09:21:12 am
We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue that sounds about right.

I used POR-15 (it's black) on my pickup truck frame with the cargo bed removed.  A little got on my skin through a hole in a rubber glove.  I think it finally went away after 6 weeks.  My skin had to shed for it to go away.  It would not come off otherwise.

My little 1996 Ford Ranger truck sees Chicago salty winters, and I never wash it.  I used POR-15 on it's badly rusted frame 4 years ago and most of the frame is still well protected.  I did bang off the loose rust before application.

I'll have to check out your chassis saver since POR-15 is not easily found in stores around town.
1634  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 05, 2013, 12:20:03 am
I moved the monitor and mounted a Scanguage-II

I need to do something with the scared headliner.  Maybe I could find a low profile sun glass tray from a junk yard vehicle.

Removing the original Ford mirror was a bit tricky because there are no screws to remove.  Following Ford's Service manual, I used a thin flat blade bent screwdriver and pry'd the black bottom away from the silver metal tab, while lifting upward.

Regarding the wiring and all, the trick in making the project easy was removing the center twin dome light (2 screws) and also the two visor hooks (1 screw each).  Then the headliner with curtain rod was easily dropped to fish wires around.  The original mounting pedistal for the monitor in the headliner is both screwed and bonded with double-sided tape.  It took some TLC to separate the headliner from the adhesive tape which stayed stuck to the mount.
1635  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 04, 2013, 05:20:39 pm
I sprayed the stair box with rust sealer spray and then covered it with 3/8 closed cell adhesive foil backed insulation.  This insulation really helped with road noise coming up thru and I am sure it helps with heat/cold.  Very inexpensive and looks really nice when complete.
The only concern with the adhesive insulation would be for returning rust without knowing it.  But I like the sound deadener idea.

I wish I had some left over POR-15 but it is so expensive and I need so little.  That is ideal for stop-rust, then insulate over it.
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