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1636  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: WATER PUMP FIX UP on: July 17, 2013, 10:01:33 pm
The output line is hard PEX white plastic plumbing where vibration easily travels making a big racket inside the motor home.  That is where you need to add a flex line.... between the pump and PEX.  The flex line will prevent vibration from getting to the hard plastic pipes.  An accumulator tank does the same thing but better.  I like having a flex line not just to prevent vibration, but also preventing potential cracking of the plastic pump itself.

As seen at the base of the area here, I added a ball valve in the low pressure line between the fresh water tank and the pump.  This in case of a failure.  It is a means to stop the water flow quickly before 40 gallons of water ends up inside the motor home.
1637  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jensen rear TV issue on: July 16, 2013, 09:15:59 pm
Universal remotes are sold everywhere for under $10, though I am sure some special features on your TV might not be managed well.  Something to consider if all else fails you.
1638  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I spent the afternoon in the storage cabinet of my 2350 on: July 16, 2013, 09:14:35 pm
My brother replaced a failed water pump with a so-called quiet one of which he was disapponted with how noisey it still was.

Our stock pump is truely quiet with the accululator pump and flex hose.  I know my hearing is failing with age, but if I am not paying attention, I'll miss it cycle on/off pending where I am in our 2350.  When the rig is quiet, it's a friendly humm even when laying on the bed above it.
1639  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I spent the afternoon in the storage cabinet of my 2350 on: July 15, 2013, 08:35:51 pm
Look up "shurflo 2 gallon accumulator" on Google and click on the "Images" in the top banner.  Scroll down and click on the pictures that match.

Here are some quick finds

My makeshift installation here uses a $30 accumulator tank from Home Depot and it works great and has never given me any kind of trouble.  But I really don't like my installation.

About the Scanguage-II, the cable can be made longer using a standard RJ45 internet cable from your home computer and coupler so don't buy their optional expensive one.  The way I set it up in my rig, it looks permanently installed, but I can easily remove the primary cable with the special OBD2 connector and also the velcro'd head unit.  This so I can use the guage on other vehicles.  The cable permanently installed in our PC is independant, a computer cable that goes from the head unit right to the OBD2 area.

Radio Shack sell these things very cheap.

Here is a generic extension cable.

Here is a coupler which simply chains two cables together.

About the water tank filler tube and vent tube.  It has been a number of years since I had our 2007 2350 bed platorm removed.  I seem to recall both tubes were clear plastic and both were short and sloped down toward the tank....nothing spiraled around like the pic  in this thread.  I hope it will be a long time before I need to remove the platform to see things again.  One thing I can say......I never have any trouble filling our fresh water tank.  It must breath well because the water goes in full blast from any water source using just a garden hose.  When water shoots out the vent tube, the tank is truly full.
1640  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Anyone Know How To Replace A Length Of High Pressure Water Line? on: July 15, 2013, 12:07:51 pm
Boy oh boy.  What a Pandora's Box..

To replace the damaged 10" horizontal pipe from elbow to elbow, I had to disconnect the kitchen faucet.  What a challenge that was with wing-nut connections bunched up together with the sprayer hose.  Once disconnected, there was no way to reconnect it.  It was obvious to me, initial installation happened during assembly of the cabinet.

Here is the faucet as it was originally installed.  It was a real struggle to disconnect the lines because the wing nuts interfered with adjacent pipes, and impossible to re-connect.  They cannot be spread apart inside the cabinet because the PEX plumbing passes through a hole below (see picture in opening post), locking them bunched together.  If disconnecting the PEX below to lift the faucet, the connections can't pass through the hole in the countertop because the wing nuts are too big.

Here was my solution, replacing the setup with flex lines that pass through the countertop hole (after minor filing of the hole to a slight elongation) and easily connect inside the cabinet.

The flex lines connect to the PEX pipes with these.  Working the crimping tool inside the confining area was also a challenge  I had to remove the black drain pipe to get the tool in there.

Cost was cheap.  Though an opportunity for a faucet upgrade, my wife really likes the plain white single handle faucet with the sprayer.

In Summary...
If you have to disconnect your kitchen faucet for "Any" reason, you face some serious challenges.
1641  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I spent the afternoon in the storage cabinet of my 2350 on: July 15, 2013, 11:38:06 am
Sorry, but I did not read through all the replies.

In general, if all you want to do is greatly reduce the pump noise, use one of these in between the pump and the high pressure line for it will dampen the vibration nicely.  Make sure you select a hose with the proper fittings to your pump and RV plumbing.  You might need an adapter fitting to make it work.  These are sold at all home improvement and hardware stores.

If you want to go a step further, install this in between the pump and RV plumbing.  This cycles the pump at comfortable intervals and stabilizes the water pressure better.  If you never dry camp, you won't benefit from this.  If I had to do it over, I would spend the money and get this one for it's great mounting features, both bolting it to the floor as well as mounting the pump to the top of it.  I just didn't want to invest in this one because at the time I wasn't sure if I would be happy with an accumulator tank to begin with.  These are advertized on-line from $110 to $275.  Shop around for the best deal.
1642  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tires need replacing. on: July 12, 2013, 07:40:15 pm
If you don't have notable cracking in the tires, I would not be quick to replace the tires given they are 3 years old.

What defines dry rot?
1643  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Anyone Know How To Replace A Length Of High Pressure Water Line? on: July 11, 2013, 10:43:31 pm
I stopped first at Menards.  They had an Apollo brand crimping kit on clearance for $24, regularly $89 so I bought it.  It handles 4 different diameters.  I bought the crimping rings 25 for $4.50 and 4 feet of PEX pipe so I got what I need to do the job.  I was going to use a quick-connect thingy made by Shark Bite but the damage I did is right next to an elbow which won't work.

Here is the crimping kit.

Thanks again fellows for the tips on what I am working with.  I learn something new all the time.  I will report once done.  One challenge is the limited work space.  I see that I'll be disassembling some things to get to the area.
1644  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Anyone Know How To Replace A Length Of High Pressure Water Line? on: July 11, 2013, 03:31:03 pm
Thanks all,

I will stop at HD tonight and ask for help there.
1645  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Anyone Know How To Replace A Length Of High Pressure Water Line? on: July 11, 2013, 12:37:04 pm
Thanks Barry,

I need roughly a 12" length that is seen in that picture.  I do not need the brass fittings.  Just the 12"-16" of white pipe, two of those black collars, and a special tool if required for the collars.

I will do some internet research for the PC interconnect system.  That video did not show how to use the black collars.  The demo mentioned that they are copper, but they look like plastic.

The one video mentions "Rescue Tape".  Not sure how to feel about that for a permanent fix.
1646  Main Forum / General Discussion / Anyone Know How To Replace A Length Of High Pressure Water Line? on: July 11, 2013, 10:56:57 am
I would ask the factory but they are shut-down until the 15th.

I need to replace a length of white pressure line (don't ask me why  Cry ).  The white pipe with black collars, I don't know how to work that, or where to buy it.  Can anyone help me?

This is the water line fitting in question, seen at the bottom of the picture.
1647  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Any 2350's in the Colorado area? on: July 11, 2013, 10:47:37 am
We should be driving our 2007 2350 (no slideout) through Rapid City around August 4th 5th or 6th.  Let me know if that works with them.
1648  Main Forum / Photos / Re: PC 2350 No Slide w/ Honda CRV on: July 09, 2013, 07:32:02 am
Your picture of the 2013 dash is correct.  It was introduced in 2009.

If you ever want to upgrade the dash board or any other thing as well, if the factory has them in stock, they will sell at a very reasonable price.  I do know the center consoles are shipped out for woodgraining so they won't have them in stock.  I know this because I really want a cherry wood grain-ed 2009-2013 center console.
1649  Main Forum / Photos / Re: PC 2350 No Slide w/ Honda CRV on: July 09, 2013, 12:17:42 am
It looks like your 2008 has the newer Ford chassis.  We missed that by just a year.
The 2008 chassis got all the mechanical updates, but lacking the updated interior design.  It looks exactly like the 2007 model year.  2008 is a year all to it's own.

FWIW: 2007 and 2008 were the only two years given that tan-ish colored interior with the early dash board design.  2006 and older chassis has a dark gray colored interior, a visual indication if you have a 2006 chassis on a 2007 motor home.

2006 and older gray color

2007 and 2008 tan color
1650  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Tip On Battery Care on: July 08, 2013, 11:50:35 pm
I was doing this to my 2007 Ford chassis battery today and later wondered why not share this with the community.

To permanently eliminate battery terminal corrosion on conventional lead acid batteries, clean each terminal and surrounding area well.  At the base where the lead metal meets the plastic battery case, apply a layer of silicone rubber caulk like this.  Let cure for 24 hours, then you are good to go.  You will never have to worry about corrosion on the terminals again until you replace the battery.

What happens over time, the seal between the dissimilar materials (lead and plastic) fails.  Then acid wicks up the lead terminal to the outside and corrodes the connection.

Stores sell a quick fix, those red and green felt washers.  They absorb the acid until saturated, but the silicone caulk eliminates the problem at the source.  It is a permanent solution.  Just be sure to leave adequate lead terminal exposed for your battery cables to attach.  If you over-did it like I might have done here, you can always trim it with a razer blade.
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