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1696  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: April 22, 2011, 04:18:37 pm
B  Badger,

We started out towing a light weight little 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder convertible that weighed only 2200 pounds, seen here.

We did NOT have a braking system setup with it.  I considered it marginal.  When we needed to brake hard, it got a little scary.  I thought that little car had very little influence in braking distance until we drove a short distance without the car attached, and it was a huge difference.  I was very surprised how such a little car could push the motor home so hard.

Our 3rd year owning the PC, we changed tow vehicles to a 2006 Jeep Liberty weighing 3800 pounds, seen here.

I was NOT going to risk anything with a heavier vehicle.  I installed a Unified tow braking system, made by US Gear.  It is the only system I know of that activates and utilizes the tow vehicle's power brake booster through a vaccuum pump.  The braking system's sensitivity is adjustable while you drive the motor home which is very useful when you go down long decents.  When set to maximum, you can stop quicker with the tow vehicle than if you didn't have it at all.  I really like my Unified Tow Brake a lot, and another fellow on this forum likes his a lot too.  It is expensive but well worth it for the extra safety.  The kit is around $900-$1000 and I installed it myself.  Installation is not for the novice.  I feel if it prevents one accident, then it more than paid for itself.
1697  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back flushing tanks on: April 22, 2011, 12:21:36 pm
On my 2007 with maserator pump, I also have a maserator bypass for long term RV park stays.  Don't we all?  I have never used it but it is there.  I would assume I would simply attach a generic big slinky hose and open both tank valves and leave them open to drain away as usage occurs.

On a related note, I once (and only once) screwed my maserator hose end into an RV park drain pipe and left it there for the duration of our visit.  Every time we flushed the toilet, we got a huge blast of sewer gas inside the bathroom.  I never hooked up that wayagain.  I since leave it capped and on the ground near the RV park sewer cap, ready for draining as required.

BTW: our few RV park stays are usually one night, rarely two nights, so I'd never hassle with a conventional slinky hose setup.  But I might if we stayed in one place for a season.....though that sewer gas problem might have me keep my tank valves closed until they get full.  At that point why not exercise the maserator?
1698  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Back flushing tanks on: April 21, 2011, 08:46:05 pm
We practice something different here, but understand that I don't feel everyone should do it my way.  I only am sharing our method and our reasons for it.

Simply stated......We do NOT poop in our motor home.  This keeps the black tank free of human waste solids, so flushing it works extremely well.  Why you might ask of this poop-free restriction?  This because we store our PC in our garage which is under our house.  We don't want to smell any sewer gas inside the house above the garage......which by the way is our master bedroom.  Oh....and my wife likes the restriction too, feeling grosed-out hauling such waste around, the smells, etc. rolling on the floor

Without human solid waste, we flush our black and gray tanks only upon returning from our trips.  I pour in a half bottle of bleach in the toilet, and a half bottle in the kitchen sink, then fill up the two tanks to capacity with fresh warm water.  After an hour or two, I then drain them into the ditch next to the driveway, and repeat the process with fresh warm water alone.  The result is clean odor-free tanks.

I let the bleach solution sit for 3 to 5 hours for the first two years, then heard of potential damage of the bleach to the sewage system, so I since do it for an hour or two.  So far so good.
1699  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: We have it! on: April 20, 2011, 09:20:43 pm
Congrats!.  You'll have to post some pics soon.  Yours is our younger sybling......2007 2350 no-slide.
1700  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Legal Action? on: April 20, 2011, 12:42:36 pm
Amen to that Aimee  ThumbsUp
1701  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: smoke detector on: April 19, 2011, 02:46:52 pm
Good to know Barry-Sue, Thanks!
1702  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 19, 2011, 08:24:46 am
Oops, yes, Richard2 is the one.  Sorry.  Still my offer is open if he is close by.
1703  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 18, 2011, 09:52:31 pm
Send me a PM with your exact location.  If we are close, drop it by and I will see what I can do, assuming the wood has not split badly.  A clean break is most hopeful.  Include a picture or two.  No charge for me giving it a try.  I could add some dowel rods too if it's clean.  Biscuits are better but I am not equipped for that.
1704  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 18, 2011, 11:10:17 am
Often a good piece of wood like a solid table top breaks cleanly and can be repaired successfully as follows.

- Buy carpenter's wood glue from any home improvement store.  A common brand is Elmer's though any brand is fine.

- Apply the glue completely covering both broken raw-wood surfaces.

- Clamp the two toegther for the right bond, squeezing out excess glue

This is a good method using cheap pipe clamps.                      

- With a hot wet rag, wipe off excess glue, it cleans off well with warm/hot water.

- Check for alignment of the two pieces to assure a nice bump-free alignment, adjust as neccessary
- After a few days in the clamps, it's good, but since it broke once, I strongly recommend screwing two hard wood wooden rails on the bottom for increased strength.

If this is not somthing you can handle, and you do not know anyone who can do this, then as suggested, contact the factory and they will sell you another one.
1705  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Oxidation on: April 15, 2011, 11:59:16 am
I have felt your pain.   I personally do not have this problem with my 2007 as it is stored indoors during nasty Chicago winters.  BUT our old motor home HERE was so small it was our second car for it's first 5 years.  We drove it year round back then so it seen a good amount of salty winter driving.  The RV hardware got all messed up from the salt very quickly, just like you are showing.  I had a very hard time maintaining it.  I found a very good waxing in the fall on all that hardware helped a lot.  I also visited those do-it-yourself car washes a lot, just to rinse off the salt spray.  As others have shared, I did replace all the hardware I could, with stainless which helped a whole lot in general appearance.

That corrosion problem is one big reason why our trips with our PC to date are done in spring/summer/fall.  And remembering the hardware corrosion trouble (and little water leaks from such screw holes) with my old motor home, I told PC-USA to leave the roof rack and ladder off, just placing them inside the RV in pieces.  So that stuff is stored at home, maybe of value to the person I one day sell the motor home to.

What worries me more with corrosion, is all the hidden stuff under the chassis.  There is all kinds of wiring, fittings, etc, etc, that I think will get messed up much worse than the spare tire handle.
1706  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 06:28:03 pm
You guys are absolutely right about excessive shifting action at highways speeds, especially at lower highway speeds in the 55-60 mph range.  Every little incline, most commonly when the highway passes over secondary roads, the transmission goes down more than one gear.  Then the engine races wildly.  It is quite irritating.

I too wonder if a specialty shop could re-gear my E350 differential to the E450.  I think it would make a big improvement.

Yes, I did hear a while back from others that the E450 stance is noticably wider, going out beyond the rear fenders.
1707  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 04:08:20 pm
Glad to hear you guys are good.

Funny rmmpe mentions such a minor difference in fuel economy between his 2551/E450 and 2350/E350.  I have always thought my 2007 E350's rear axle ratio is not appropriate for my loaded-up motor home and tow vehicle together.  The wind never seems to cooperate either.  I feel my axle ratio bogs down the engine and transmission, especially at slower 55-60mph cruising speeds.  If I drove my 2350/E350 without water, passengers, gear, and tow vehicle, maybe the axle ratio I have would be satisfactory.  I am left to wonder if the E450 axle ratio would have been better for my application.
1708  Main Forum / General Discussion / Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 02:30:37 pm
If you own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450 chassis, you need to read this.  It seems very easy to check to make sure your engine air intake is not blocked by an improper assembly process.  Click Here And Read
1709  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Inverter on: April 13, 2011, 02:44:43 pm
That sounds about right, the batteries going dead when leaving the storage switch on.  It sounds like they are going dead quicker than they should but maybe the batteries need a full slow re-charge for them to last longer.  Charge the batteries slowly to a full charge, then hit the kill switch by the main entry door.  The batteries if still in good functional condition, should retain their charge for a good long time.

I had one battery go bad on me a couple years into ownership.  I replaced both with larger ones from Wal-Mart.  With my main kill swtich turned off, my batteries hold a good charge for multiple months.  My PC is stored in a heated garage which does help too. Stored outside, they should still hold a decent charge for a month or more.
1710  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Inverter on: April 13, 2011, 11:49:58 am
....inverter still draws the batteries down even if the inverter switch is turned off.
On my 2007 with Tripp-Lite inverter.  It could be the same on your 2009.  There are 3 ways to turn off your inverter.  Two methods kill the inveter completely, one partially.

1) The main kill switch by the entry door - Turning this switch off kills 100% of the RV 12v system including the inverter.  There is no power drain.  No lights or anything else will function.  This switch should never be used when camping because it also kills the fridge regardless of which mode it is opperating under.  Use that kill switch and your food will spoil.

2) The switch physically located on the inverter itself - Turning this switch off, kills the inverter 100%, but keeps 12v opperations functioning as normal.  All lights, exhaust fans, etc still work.  I use this switch when leaving the motor home for the day.  There is NO power draw from the inverter this way.  Unfortunately the switch is not convenient to get to.

3) The Tripp-Lite control panel switch mounted under the fridge - In my opinion, this switch is pretty much useless.  With the phone jack plugged into it's backside, the inverter always draws 12-amps sitting idle which is rediculous.  It's only benefit is to always have 110v available which is fine for people who hop from one RV park to another.  But for primitive campers like me, this is NOT good.  With the phone jack unplugged and inverter turned off using the Tripp-Lite control panel, it still draws 1-amp just sitting idle.  I want zero draw so I turn on the inverter using the switch on the inverter, only under the following conditions.  1) when I need 110v  2) when plugged into shore power to charge the batteries  3) when generator is running to charge the batteries.

I think PC-USA switched to the later inverter to eliminate this saga.
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