Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 115 116 [117] 118 119 ... 146
1741  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Ladder Leak on: March 28, 2011, 05:22:25 pm
Sorry for that lame joke.  I never meant to imply it's a bad idea to have a ladder and rack.  It's just not for least not just yet.  I came from a different mold than most.

I do have my roof rack and ladder stored in my "other" house in case I ever change my mind.

DJM, that was funny......hiding up top to get away.
1742  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: storage solutions on: March 28, 2011, 04:55:46 pm
Thanks all:

Ron: I do have my jeep liberty set up for towing, however I would rather not tow that if I could.  This trip is going to be 3 weeks and a few days and a lot of our stops are going to be hit and go, so I think I can do with out the toad.  Besides it will save on fuel.  David
With our 2007 2350 towing our Jeep Liberty 4000 miles from Chicago to Jasper Alberta and back at around 70mph, we averaged 9.2mpg.  You towing the same, should see better if you slow down to 60-65mph max, even considering the extra weight of 4 people.

Leaving your Liberty home will force you to drive the PC 100% of the time.  Your average fuel economy will drop like a tank given every move will be on roads less than ideal for a motor home.  Between all the steep grades, very slow winding curves at various speed, and even some traffic, you'll be doing worse over-all compared to the fuel lost in towing your Liberty.  Your kids won't see much either from the "limited view" of the PC windows.  I advise to tow the Liberty to benefit of storage, mobiity, child sight-seeing views, and combined fuel savings.  Not fuel loss.

We do on-the-go vacationing all the time, often staying in places a night or two, so I understand your comment of "hit and go".  But the tow vehicle "STILL" makes it work so much better.  Your first primitive road with limited vehicle length and you'll be saying...."Why did we leave the Liberty home?"  Also your kids will be saying....."What Buffalo?  We can't see anything from back here!"

Regardless of your decision, keep close track of your fuel consumption averaged from the entire trip and see how you did.  You only need to write down the starting odometer reading at home with a full tank of gas, write down the gallons to the 10th gallon purchased thereafter.  Then once back home, fill up one last time and right down the mileage again.  Calculate from there.  It wil provide an extremely accuate figure.
1743  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Ladder Leak on: March 28, 2011, 01:19:13 pm
I don't have that problem.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.   Smile
1744  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: storage solutions on: March 28, 2011, 01:08:37 pm
Yep, I agree with all the info shared.  Don't bring more than one week worth of clothes.  Don't stock up on food either.

4 people in any 2350 would be tight.  Without a tow vehicle to store extra stuff in, I would surely consider something like this for the lighter weighted stuff.

This particular one comes in a couple colors, offers 34 cubic feet, and telescopes away from the vehicle to allow you to open the PC rear storage hatch.  Personally, for me, I'd rather spend the same money to setup a tow vehicle and use that to store the extra stuff inside.

Here It Is In The "EXTENDED" Position.

For heavier stuiff, you may need to consider something like this with containers.
1745  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 26, 2011, 10:01:48 pm
Each addresses a different type of unwanted motion.  I advise to get both right from the start.  If you do just the sway bar, I understand it will have to be removed to install the trac bar, so just do both.....done once, done right.
1746  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 26, 2011, 09:44:40 pm
I will take a stab at it too.

Sway/stabilizer bars reduce side-to-side swaying.  Like a pine tree would sway in a gusty wind storm.  Like a boat or a buoy rocks side-to-side in water.

A rear trac bar eliminates horizontal side-to-side motion.  The motion is caused from the rear leaf springs twisting.  That is why on a van style class B+/C there is no need for a front trac bar because the chassis does not have front leaf springs.

I can easily create the same motion with my little Ford Ranger pickup truck by standing close to the rear tailgate, pushing on the side in quick succession, getting it to shake it's butt sideways wildly.  I cannot do that with the front end because it has coil springs and the rest that goes with that type of suspension.
1747  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 25, 2011, 11:16:07 am
Very interesting.  I was told Ford covers that initial alignment, which is contradictory to your experience.

Four years ao I piad $170 for my front wheel alignment, this done before I heard Ford "supposedly" covers it.  Mine was more costly than most because of the extra labor and parts involved to replace center-set bushings with off-set bushings to adjust for an extreme camber condition.  I would assume that condition is because the front is much lighter than normal.  I do have my fresh water tank in the very back of my 2350.  That 400 pounds alone, would lighten up the front by that amount.  Then adding 55 gallons of fuel and all the rest behind the rear axle, and there goes my front camber to the extreme.
1748  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 24, 2011, 05:35:21 pm
On the Bilstein shocks, does anyone have any feedback on their "heavy duty" shock versus their "comfort" shock?
When you say "Call Ford customer service" do you mean the local Ford dealer service department?
As everyone on says, get the "Heavy Duty", not the "Comfort".  Even considering the weight of a lighter E350 as compared to a heavier E450, the heavy duty versions are still the best for your application.  I have Koni-RV adjustable shocks, and they are set to the stiffest setting.  They do their job well without making the ride any rougher than my wimpy original Ford shocks.

About contacting Ford, if you cannot find the number in your owner's manual, then contact your local Ford service department and they will get you the number to call.
1749  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 24, 2011, 04:58:49 pm
Great run-down there Billy.

Just to add, the stock Ford chassis comes from Ford with everything except for a rear trac bar.  As you mentioned, it has (of coarse) shocks..... and front & rear sway bars.  But the chassis also has a steering stabilizer.  The problem is that none are enough for such a heavily loaded chassis, a house on wheels.

The front steering stabilizer and sway bar is the same installed on an E150 van.  The 4 shocks are the same used in an E250 van.  All very inadequate for a motor home application.
1750  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Suspension and handling on: March 24, 2011, 04:42:59 pm
Hi jdw,

A sway bar and stabilizer bar are one and the same.

BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING, first get a front wheel alignment, compliments of Ford.  Call Ford customer service for instruction.  When you go there, have a full tank of fresh water & fuel, all your gear, etc.  Try to simulate the weight as if leaving on a trip.  If you want to go the extra mile, add weight to simulate driver and passenger.  I threw in some weights from exercise equipment, set on the floor behind the two front seats.

About your 2011 chassis not having availability, I suspect the on-line information has not yet been updated to accomodate 2011 model years.  I advise to call Helwig and Roadmaster direct.  They may say to simply order 2010 parts.

I also advise to have both the rear sway bar and rear trac bar installed at the same time.  This because the installer will need to adjust the position of the sway bar to accomodate the trac bar.  You would not want anyone to mess with sway bar mounting hardware twice.

If your budget is very limited, start first with rear sway & trac bars.  That will address the worst of your handling troubles.  Immediately following would be a front sway bar.  If you still have issues, then do the shocks and steering stabilizer.

As you know we had everything done all at once which made a "MEGA" improvement in handling.  Our rig is a real joy to drive and ride in.  No more "Drunken Sailer".
1751  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Kwikstep / Kwik-Lube on: March 23, 2011, 12:05:15 pm
I am a bad boy.  I think I lubricated my step once, a few months after I bought my PC in June of 2007.  That would make it .....3.5 years ago.  It does work extremely well with no strange sounds or squeeks.

Are you owners having issues with your electric step, or is it simply preventative maintenance?  I suppose I should lube mine up.
1752  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Spell checker on: March 23, 2011, 09:38:41 am
Reding throuh thiss tred, I dwnloded iespell, but dont notce anee difernce in mie speling.  How doe sit spell ch eck?
1753  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Spell checker on: March 20, 2011, 05:00:06 pm
Also welcome to the new "Hero members" over 100 or more post.  ThumbsUp Go to Members above and sort by post to see who they are/will soon be.
Oh boy, no wonder my wife says to me all the time....."Are you on that computer again?"
1754  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Air flow on: March 19, 2011, 12:53:23 pm
Try setting the heater controls to max A/C.  That recirculates cabin air by closing up the ventilation from the outside, maybe staying closed with the engine turned off.
1755  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: oil change on: March 18, 2011, 02:03:18 pm

To be honest, I didn't learn that Ford recommended synthetic until my 3rd oil change.  I used regular oil the 1st change at 2000, then 3000 miles.  Once I read "synthetic" in the owners manual, I switched to full synthetic and let that oil work for me all year long given I drive maybe 5000 miles per year max.

For a new Ford-V10 engine, I would run that oil a full year as I would think Ford follows their own spec and put full synthetic 5W-20 in there.  But I would surely do this next thing too.

I always have a very strong magnet on the bottom of the oil filter to capture any metal particles, especially beneficial during the break-in period and exteneded use synthetic oil in combination.  I found very strong magnets for this use in discarded computer hard drives.  The magnets are so strong, they will draw blood if you get your fingers pinched between two of them.  Here is what they look like.

I use a magnet on my Phoenix and my Corvette as both oil changes are once a year with Synthetic.  My daily use vehicles, I still use regualar oil changed at closer invervals so I never bother with magnets.  There are two magnets in each hard drive.

There are all kinds of magnets sold specifically for oil filters as shown, but I am a cheapskate where it doesn't matter.
Pages: 1 ... 115 116 [117] 118 119 ... 146