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1741  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Using refrigerator while driving on: September 15, 2010, 01:15:30 pm
Judy, One more thing I'll add here.

I see the waste tank specs on your 2551  is the same as my 2350.  The gray tank is the smaller of the two.  If yours is plumbed the same as mine, plan to flood the black tank with gray water once in-between dumps.  No harm in it at all.  It's just that you'll fill the gray tank long before you run out of fresh water, and the black tank will be near empty, most often when showering.  My wife will yell to me, "Honey, the water is not going down the shower drain".  I'll go out and toggle those two electric switches, wait 10 seconds, toggle them back, and wholla!
1742  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Using refrigerator while driving on: September 15, 2010, 12:30:00 pm
You went "All Out" except for the thermal windows.  You probably won't miss them if you never experienced them.  Hopefully you won't have regrets down the road.

Doing a lot of dry camping?  You'll be doing well in your PC for that.  On our trips, we'll dry camp 6 out of 7 days over a 3 week period, hooking up once a week to charge our batteries better than we can with limited generator run times using my smart 4/10/20/40 amp Black & Decker charger.

I never bother hooking up water and sewer anymore because it's not worth the effort given we are so well groomed for dry camping.  So our on-board water pump (with my added pressure tank) is used exclusively.  If our vacations were the kind where we plant ourselves in RV parks for extended periods, I'd be thinking conventionally.

About your comment...."Very Large Investment", that hits home.  Three years running and so far so good here too.  Our investment looks like this in rounded figures.

- $67,000 purchase price
- $5,000 in sales tax and related
- $4,000 suspension upgrades
- $2,000 interior upgrades and other initial investment supplies (I installed two TVs, one with integrated DVD which covered about half that)
- $2,000 in towing and braking kits (installing everything myself)

$80,000 pretty much sums it up for us, doing it once, doing it right, no regrets.  This thing better outlast us, ha, ha.
1743  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Beware a very serious Dingy Towing Danger on: September 15, 2010, 11:56:30 am
I "Get It" concerning the steering wheel lock warning.  I know to make darn sure the key is in the "Exact" position.  Our 2006 Jeep Liberty has only 34,000 miles on it so things are still relatively new, but with age, I could see potential for trouble.  Maybe if we spray WD40 in the ignition switch and work the tumblers around to assure the key stays put.

A related note:  The key we use for towing is a "Dumb" key we had cut at a Walmart.  It cannot start the vehicle, only unlock the steering wheel.  We figured it to be a theft deterrent.  Any determined thief can figure a way to unhook the tow vehicle, but at least he won't be able to start the car and drive off.  We also use heavy duty locks key'd alike, instead of those rings/pins and chain connectors.
1744  Main Forum / General Discussion / WTB: Captain Chair, Gray Or Green Leather (earlier style) on: September 13, 2010, 08:52:30 am
If anyone here is going to change out their earlier style captain chairs, I would be interested in buying either one of them.

Over the winter, I'd like to try installing one of them in-place of my barrel chair.  The company who makes them for the factory wants $365 which is way too much for an off-season experiment.
Here is the seat manufacture:  >>>>Paul's Seating<<<<
Here is his seat called: >>>>Lexus<<<<
I wouldn't need the steel seat base portion as I would reuse the swiveling pedestal of the barrel chair.

This is my application with color scheme.
1745  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Beware a very serious Dingy Towing Danger on: September 13, 2010, 08:46:43 am
Dick,

Thanks for sharing.

When you say "Ripped" off the frame, what exactly failed?  Mounting bolts?  Towbar brackets? Frame of Cherokee?  One side or both sides?  What brand of tow bar and bracket do you have?  Requesting many details, and any pictures if you have them.

We tow a 2006 Jeep Liberty.  I will pay very close attention to this.
1746  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Using refrigerator while driving on: September 09, 2010, 10:33:44 pm
By the way Judy, I too congratulate you on your purchase.  If your's is being built right now, we here on the forum might have some suggestions as to what options are good, and which are a "must-have".

For example, some people elect to get the standard single pane windows.  We were talked into getting the double/thermal pane glass, which we are so happy we did.  The motor home is much more quiet to sleep in when parked overnight in rest areas and Walmarts.  A semi truck idling next to us is tollerable now.  It's much warmer on cold nights greatly reducing the radiated cold coming down on you when sleeping.  It also stays cooler inside on real hot days, allowing the dash board a/c to cool down the entire house.

The themal pane glass is also great when on the open road.  Trucks that roar past are much less an unpleasent experience.   My wife enjoys some of her time in back sitting at the dinette.  She'll play a movie, have a cup of coffee on the table, and go through the vacation pictures on her laptop, all while watching the world go by.

We do long multi-day driving to get to and from our destinations, so the commutes are a big part of our experience.  The thermal pane windows help make it more enjoyable.

So what options did you order?
1747  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Using refrigerator while driving on: September 09, 2010, 03:16:20 pm
Judy,

You were misinformed on LP usage when driving.  Appliances using LP should be turned off only when the RV is indoors like in a garage, or outside at a gas station or LP filling area.  This to prevent asphyxiation indoors or an RV appliance igniting gas station fumes.  But any other time including driving the motor home, it is perfectly safe.

The hot water heater and the fridge would be the 2 most likely appliances using propane when pulling into a gas station.  The proper thing to do is turn them both off, which is extremely easy to do using their controls.  The hot water heater has switches located just under the kitchen counter, and the fridge has an on/off switch right in between the upper freezer and lower fridge doors.  Most people like myself leave the hot water tank off until at a destination because propane or electricity both heat up the water very quickly.

Your Phoenix Cruiser refrigerator, it will have either a 2-way or 3-way power system as follows.

2-way
1) 110v opperation (when plugged into a power source in a camp ground or at home)
2) propane opperation, also requiring 12v but only a small amount to control when the propane goes on and off

3-way
1) 110v opperation (when plugged into a power source in a camp ground or at home)
2) propane opperation, also requiring 12v but only a small amount to control when the propane goes on and off
3) 12v opperation exclusively (uses a lot of battery power to work)

People have told me that 3rd method in full 12v opperation, is real hard on the batteries.  It is useful only when driving, and only when the outside temperature is below a certian temp.  I don't know what that is.  When it get's too hot outside, the #3 12v opperation looses effectiveness quickly.

We have a 2-way fridge in our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser.  We use the #2 propane opperation almost exclusively and it works great, even when driving.  It also uses very little propane.  One day running the furnace will use more propane than the fridge does in 3 weeks.  The fridge still needs 12v but very little, only to control when the fridge cycles on and off.  The main power requirement is through propane usage.  I don't know how heat from propane makes a fridge cold, but I can say that it works extremely well.

When in a campground with electricity, plug your motor home there and switch propane to electric and that works great too.  In our case, we most often camp where there is no electricity which is why we use the propane setting most often.

You'll have a lot more questions.  Just keep asking.

Ron
1748  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: latch on sani con door on: September 07, 2010, 11:08:18 pm
In or out of warrantee, the factory is so very good about such matters.  Call their general number (not Stuart's number) and explain what happened.  I would be very surprised if you don't get one free of charge in very good time.  That is what we all experience on such little things gone wrong.
1749  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Higher lights on: September 06, 2010, 10:26:25 am
I know what you mean.

On my old RV, that thing went so slow that everyone passed us like we were standing still.  I used red&white reflective tape across the rear bumper on that one because we did so much night driving in those days.  But we were not towing anything either so the rear bumper was exposed well.  It lit up so nicely in back from headlights of others.  I know because I confirmed it myself once being in a following vehicle at night.

Maybe reflective tape in tasteful places???  It would be much easier to implement and easy to undo if you change your mind at a later date.
1750  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Higher lights on: September 06, 2010, 09:30:09 am
I don't have the answer to your question, but what would give you the answer you seek is a picture of the backside of a rear cap.  Maybe the factory could provide you a picture and some advise.  blockages might vary pending model.  Assuming you have a clean vertical channel in the rear cap, I imagine you'd have to treat the project like at home working in between walls.  You'd have to drill a hole where you want the light, fish a wire from there down to the floor where you'd be drilling another hole to get to the underside of the coach where the tail lights are.

First call Kermit Fisher there at the factory.  He is not a lover of email.  Best to discuss over the phone.
1751  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thermostat on: September 05, 2010, 09:39:27 pm
I wonder if the mechanical thermostat can be adjusted to reduce the swing in temps.  One day I'll have to see if I have an owner's manual on that thing and determine if there is an adjustment.  We like the one we have, but not the temp swing it yields.
1752  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: September 03, 2010, 11:21:29 am
With heavy duty sway bars, you'll appreciate the improved stability when parked as well as when on the road.  We don't feel the need for stabilizer jacks.  We don't get severe rocking to-&-fro when walking around inside.  It moves so much less.

If your PC is still with you without HD bars, stand inside on the open floor and intentionally try to rock it wildly side-to-side and see how bad you can get it to sway.  Then after the bars are on, do it again.  You should notice a big difference.
1753  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: September 02, 2010, 11:04:25 am
The new/improved pump model sounds like a much better solution than using a water pressure tank with the old pump.  If my old pump ever fails, I will buy that new/improved pump and see if it's beneficial to rid myself of the pressure tank to gain a little more storage space.

Thanks all for sharing.  This forum is great.
1754  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: September 02, 2010, 08:58:22 am
Paula,

Glad to hear you got a working solution.

How often does the pump go on and off when the water is running?
Is there consistent water pressure while running, or do you see a varrying stream of water from the faucet?

Ron
1755  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: September 01, 2010, 10:51:15 am
Glad to hear you will look into heavy duty sway bars & shocks.  Regarding shocks, there are two best brands to consider.  Bilstein and Koni-RV adjustables.  If you get the Koni-RV, request the shocks get set to the stiffest setting.  We have Koni-RVs and are very pleased with them.  Others seem just as happy with the Bilsteins.  Just be sure you get the "right" Bilsteins.  There are a few choices....softer & stiffer.  Get the stiffer ones.

As with most such matters, the sky is the limit on how much you can spend.  For us it cost $3900 at a local RV/Bus/Truck specialty shop for the following including installation.
- Roadmaster heavy duty sway bars, both front and rear
- Koni-RV shocks all around
- Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer
- Henderson rear track bar (Stabilizes the rear horizontally side-to-side, especially beneficial when towing)
- front wheel alignment

Our old motor home of 24 years had serious handling issues from the beginning which worstened along the way.  12 years into it we had that shop perform miracles on it.  I wasn't going to challenge their recommendations on my new PC2350.  We do plan to keep our PC longer yet so why not enjoy the safety and comfort benefits from day-one.

The invtestment has saved our lives once already, going way too fast on a curve in the road on a mountain byway.  The RV stayed firmly planted while hard in the turn, allowing me to nearly lock up the brakes (it does have ABS) yet maintain good control.  This while towing a small car without secondary braking at the time.  How can you put a price on that?

Also the comfort in driving it is huge.  I find myself able to drive for 3 to 4 hours straight which I could never do when I was continuously doing steering adjustments.  Driver fatique is drastically reduced.....another safety factor as well.  My wife also enjoys sitting at the dinette with her laptop, organizing trip pictures and videos, with her drink staying in the cup, and the cup staying on the table.  LOL
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