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1771  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Hurricane Sandy on: October 31, 2012, 07:52:38 am
Glad to hear you were minimally affected.  Let's hope to hear the same from JackD and the others there.
1772  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Where are all the Phoenix Cruisers? on: October 30, 2012, 12:27:49 pm
Sightings were much worse with our first motor home of 24 years.  The Mirage company built 5 per week during their best times.  In all our travels, we seen maybe 6 since 1983.  Someone local to me had owned one for many years of which I seen maybe once a year, but I don't count him in my sightings.  Funny that the Mirage was built not far from PC-USA.

How may of you have seen a Mirage, made 1978-1986?
The Phoenix Cruiser is much more popular than our Mirage ever was.
1773  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Hurricane Sandy on: October 29, 2012, 02:26:57 pm
Our prayers for protection from God above, go out to our east coast PC friends.
1774  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Where are all the Phoenix Cruisers? on: October 29, 2012, 12:41:07 pm
Every trip we've taken, the most I've seen is 2, one going in the opposite direction on the interstate.
1775  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 28, 2012, 10:11:26 pm
Oooooo  cool  I like Bobander's idea.  Like Tom says, be sure to consider wall thickness to prevent damage to the outside wall.  Insert a thin screw driver or long nail in the hole to measure depth before taking the next step.

Those wall anchors are made in a variety of sizes for different wall thicknesses.  Be sure to get the 1/8" thick wall size or the anchor could be permanently loose even after the collapse & fanning out behind the wall.  Bobander's top picture looks to be the right size.  The picture below is surely the WRONG size, shown for comparison.


How They Work
1776  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 27, 2012, 11:25:04 pm
Cup holders, eye glass shelves, even a towel bar, I feel all can be mounted using coarse thread wood screws, as long as you pre-drill avoiding masonite crumbling.  My towel rack in the bathroom here is just srewed into the wall board.

About the rope door stop, it "Is" strong enough for a strong gusty wind.
I selected the button as I call it, instead of a bolt for the ease of slipping the rope off, and so the rope would not get damaged from any sharp edges.  It  is deeper than most bolt heads offer so the rope stays on better.  Those buttons are sold at hardware stores and home improvement centers, most common in those loose hardware bins.  Not packaged on hooks.  I wish I knew their proper name.
ADDING LATER:  I learned they are called Weld Flange Nuts.

1777  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 27, 2012, 09:09:54 pm
Hi George,

I received your email and will email you my writeup and template.

I never addressed the window shade in the entry door.  The discs I used were selected for their durability, a good match, and look factory-like to me, rather than the after-thought that it is.  

Because your door requires an odd shape plate, maybe something of painted metal would be a better choice.  Just be sure the material is thick enough as not to deform if hit hard.

The walls of PCs use a vacubonded process  The outer material is a quality strong gel coat fiberglass.  The inside finished wall is a masonite type of material finished with a paper coating that is water & stain resistant and looks nice.  Between the outside and inside walls is steel framing similar to studs on a house with top plate and bottom plates.  The air space is filled with block foam.  The foam is very similar to a disposable styrofoam cooler.  There is also special metal framing used for windows and a/c unit.

Kermit explained this is how the assembly process is done.  An adhesive is applied to inside of the fiberglass and masonite panels, and also to both sides of the block foam, steel frame, and window frames.  All components are aligned and then placed inside a huge baggie-like thing and the air is sucked out to draw the masonite and fiberglass together.  It is sort of a clamping method to assure everything makes contact evenly.  After the adhesive has cured, that wall panel is ready for the motor home.

If you want to mount anything substantial, say a shelf or TV.  Just like at home, it is best to locate a stud.  Screws and wall anchors are only as strong as the inside wall board which is only 1/8" thick.  It's not much.  I don't advise to use self-tapping screws in the wall board, but rather pre-drill a pilot hole to the inside diameter of the screw threads.  This assures the masonite won't fracture, creating a weakened condition.

Your 2008 rig has a gas charged door closure, right?  Maybe the door closure was introduced in 2009.  I did not use a bungy cord.  It is regular rope.  Any regular rope stretches a tiny little bit when pulled hard.  A chain or cable for example would not stretch at all which would provide an abrupt stop.  My button on the door for the rope to loop around, is screwed on a short threaded rod.  That rod is screwed into the sheet metal of the door.  I tapped threads into the hole of the door metal.  Given the stresses are at 90 degrees to the tapped hole, there is no concern of the button ripping out from the door, or deforming the metal door in any way.
1778  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Blue Ox got the best of me on: October 26, 2012, 10:45:32 am
I have heard of people installing a rear trac bar along with a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar which end up mechanically conflicting with eachother.  But I never heard of this particular interference.

Contact the trac bar supplier.  Maybe you need a different bracket in your mounting kit which is sometimes the case.  The supplier will most often supply and ship "the magic part" free of charge.

I'd like to hear how your story concludes.  Good Luck!
1779  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 23, 2012, 09:18:27 am
.....Ron practically ordered my PC before I purchased it from East Acres.  I think he'd make a great salesman for Phoenix Cruiser.  B Golden  Grin   Grin   Grin
rolling on the floor
1780  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 21, 2012, 08:31:03 pm
Denny and Barb,

Now you are talking!  ThumbsUp
I would love to retire to do more of what I already based charity work, mostly through our church.  And all the time in between would be about the two of us and family.  I so desire all that kind of "Busy".
1781  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 20, 2012, 02:44:28 pm
I could not agree with that statement so I wrote something else.  I can have a very good day at work, and bad day camping, though most often reveresed which is why I wish I could retire.
1782  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: (outside) water drain "faucet," etc. on: October 18, 2012, 09:09:35 pm
I think the turning portion just pops out the top.  Very easy to replace without messing with the rest of the fitting and all
1783  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / How To Determine If Your Ford Is "Keyless Entry" Ready on: October 18, 2012, 04:37:54 pm
There are two methods to determine if your Ford was originally setup for Keyless Entry while it was being assembled on the Ford production line.

1) Electrically
2) Visually

#1 - Electrically
- Sit in the driver seat with all doors closed, and buckle your seat belt.
- Be sure everything is turned off, like the climate control, radio, head lights, etc.
- Put your key in the ignition and turn to the OFF position which is one click before the dash board warning lights all come on.
- Then in "Quick Succession", turn the key one click ON, then one click OFF, a total of eight times ending at the ON position.  Never turn the key so far as to crank over the engine.
- If the horn honks once, then you are "Keyless Entry Ready".  You only need to purchase key fobs and program them per your owners manual.
- If the horn does not honk, then you are not setup for Keyless Entry.

#2 - Visually (Do This If The Horn Doesn't Honk)
Visually inspect to see if the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) the keyless entry support module is installed under the dash board.
Open the passenger door and stay standing outside.
Lean into the passenger footwell with a flashlight and look above the right side kick panel for a module roughly 5" wide x 4" tall, screwed to the side wall with two screws, and many wires coming down from it.
If you have a blank space with two screw holes but no screws, then you do not have the module, therefore are not setup for Keyless Entry.

Unfortunately, the main wire harness for Keyless Entry is significantly different than without.  You cannot simply purchase a VSM module new or used, and plug-n-play.  There are not supporting connectors to work with.  If you really wanted Keyless Entry, you would have to resort to an aftermarket system like a Viper for example.

This data was given to me from a friend who is a Ford mechanic.  He was not certian of differences if any between model years which is why there are two methods of verification.

1784  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / So Your Ford Died And Won't Start. First Try This. on: October 17, 2012, 10:15:54 pm
While checking to see if I have a keyless entry module installed on my 2007 E350 chassis, I stumbled on my Fuel Pump Reset Switch.

All you Ford based PC owners should know about this switch.  If your engine suddenly dies, turns over during restart, but simply won't start, the first thing to try is pressing that switch to reset the fuel pump circuit.  Spend a little time to locate it now so you know where it is when needed.

I assume the location is consistent between E-Series model years.  Open the passenger door.  Stand outside and put your head in the footwell.  With a flashlight, read the indented writing located near the top of the right side wall panel.  It indicates where the switch is.  You reach over the top of the panel and blindly feel for the switch which has a rubber plunger feel to it.  With the engine off, press the switch down to the street to get a feel about it.

The purpose of this safety feature is to kill the fuel pump in the event of an accident that ruptures the fuel system.  This prevents fuel from being pumped all over an accident scene.  On rare instance under normal use, a very hard bump on the road can trip this safety feature leaving you stranded.  If your engine dies for no reason, or turns over but won't start, first push the button and see if all is well again.

Our old Ford Taurus would give my wife trouble with this safety feature.  About once every-other year she would call me that her car wouldn't start.  I had to remind her each time to push that reset button.  It gave her trouble only when shopping.  I wonder if people would back into her parked Taurus, tripping the safety feature.  Maybe it was too sensitive.

I think such a switch is on every Ford product.  Any Ford you own, check to see where that switch is located for future reference.  It may be covered in the owners manual.

Blessings All!
1785  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bolts in the Floor on: October 17, 2012, 12:34:47 pm
George, I am not very familiar with your specific coach, but you describe the area above the generator.  Those bolts might be anchoring the generator mounting brackets.  If this is true, one consideration would be to install wood flooring.  The top of the raised floor might be higher than the bolts, or flush where a decorative plug would do the trick.  If it is a close call, I would tighten the bolts and then grind them down 10 to 20% to tweek them to a height that works.  But DO NOT over-grind.  I am talking just a little bit could be allowed and still be 100% safe.

Just thoughts here from me, not hard recommendations.  I assume the slideout could be adjusted to the new floor height, but I really have no clue how the factory handles this for their wood floor installations.
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