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1816  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: latch on sani con door on: September 07, 2010, 11:08:18 pm
In or out of warrantee, the factory is so very good about such matters.  Call their general number (not Stuart's number) and explain what happened.  I would be very surprised if you don't get one free of charge in very good time.  That is what we all experience on such little things gone wrong.
1817  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Higher lights on: September 06, 2010, 10:26:25 am
I know what you mean.

On my old RV, that thing went so slow that everyone passed us like we were standing still.  I used red&white reflective tape across the rear bumper on that one because we did so much night driving in those days.  But we were not towing anything either so the rear bumper was exposed well.  It lit up so nicely in back from headlights of others.  I know because I confirmed it myself once being in a following vehicle at night.

Maybe reflective tape in tasteful places???  It would be much easier to implement and easy to undo if you change your mind at a later date.
1818  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Higher lights on: September 06, 2010, 09:30:09 am
I don't have the answer to your question, but what would give you the answer you seek is a picture of the backside of a rear cap.  Maybe the factory could provide you a picture and some advise.  blockages might vary pending model.  Assuming you have a clean vertical channel in the rear cap, I imagine you'd have to treat the project like at home working in between walls.  You'd have to drill a hole where you want the light, fish a wire from there down to the floor where you'd be drilling another hole to get to the underside of the coach where the tail lights are.

First call Kermit Fisher there at the factory.  He is not a lover of email.  Best to discuss over the phone.
1819  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Thermostat on: September 05, 2010, 09:39:27 pm
I wonder if the mechanical thermostat can be adjusted to reduce the swing in temps.  One day I'll have to see if I have an owner's manual on that thing and determine if there is an adjustment.  We like the one we have, but not the temp swing it yields.
1820  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: September 03, 2010, 11:21:29 am
With heavy duty sway bars, you'll appreciate the improved stability when parked as well as when on the road.  We don't feel the need for stabilizer jacks.  We don't get severe rocking to-&-fro when walking around inside.  It moves so much less.

If your PC is still with you without HD bars, stand inside on the open floor and intentionally try to rock it wildly side-to-side and see how bad you can get it to sway.  Then after the bars are on, do it again.  You should notice a big difference.
1821  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: September 02, 2010, 11:04:25 am
The new/improved pump model sounds like a much better solution than using a water pressure tank with the old pump.  If my old pump ever fails, I will buy that new/improved pump and see if it's beneficial to rid myself of the pressure tank to gain a little more storage space.

Thanks all for sharing.  This forum is great.
1822  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: September 02, 2010, 08:58:22 am
Paula,

Glad to hear you got a working solution.

How often does the pump go on and off when the water is running?
Is there consistent water pressure while running, or do you see a varrying stream of water from the faucet?

Ron
1823  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: September 01, 2010, 10:51:15 am
Glad to hear you will look into heavy duty sway bars & shocks.  Regarding shocks, there are two best brands to consider.  Bilstein and Koni-RV adjustables.  If you get the Koni-RV, request the shocks get set to the stiffest setting.  We have Koni-RVs and are very pleased with them.  Others seem just as happy with the Bilsteins.  Just be sure you get the "right" Bilsteins.  There are a few choices....softer & stiffer.  Get the stiffer ones.

As with most such matters, the sky is the limit on how much you can spend.  For us it cost $3900 at a local RV/Bus/Truck specialty shop for the following including installation.
- Roadmaster heavy duty sway bars, both front and rear
- Koni-RV shocks all around
- Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer
- Henderson rear track bar (Stabilizes the rear horizontally side-to-side, especially beneficial when towing)
- front wheel alignment

Our old motor home of 24 years had serious handling issues from the beginning which worstened along the way.  12 years into it we had that shop perform miracles on it.  I wasn't going to challenge their recommendations on my new PC2350.  We do plan to keep our PC longer yet so why not enjoy the safety and comfort benefits from day-one.

The invtestment has saved our lives once already, going way too fast on a curve in the road on a mountain byway.  The RV stayed firmly planted while hard in the turn, allowing me to nearly lock up the brakes (it does have ABS) yet maintain good control.  This while towing a small car without secondary braking at the time.  How can you put a price on that?

Also the comfort in driving it is huge.  I find myself able to drive for 3 to 4 hours straight which I could never do when I was continuously doing steering adjustments.  Driver fatique is drastically reduced.....another safety factor as well.  My wife also enjoys sitting at the dinette with her laptop, organizing trip pictures and videos, with her drink staying in the cup, and the cup staying on the table.  LOL
1824  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: August 31, 2010, 07:14:00 pm
Tom,

Ford upgraded the E-Series chassis in 2008 which I believe is the same today.  I am surprised to hear the Ford bars are comparable to the aftermarket heavy duty bars.  Looking at the 2008 specs, the Ford bars are smaller by a lot.  Maybe the bars were changed between 2008 and 2011.  One can always get under the RV and measure the bars they have.  Reviewing my 2007 and 2008 E-series Ford data sheets, this is what is stated.

2008 specs on OEM E450 bars straight from Ford are
21mm dia front (8.25")
1.125" dia rear
Both with softer rubber bushings

Roadmaster & Helwig heavy duty bars are as follows
1.375" dia on front
1.500" dia rear
All with harder polymer bushings that compress less in a hard lean

For reference:
2008 E350 Super Duty Cut-away chassis has the same diameter bars as the E450 Super Duty Cut-away.
2007 E350 Super Duty Cut-away chassis has 1.000" diameter front bar and NO rear bar.
2007 E450 Super Duty Cut-away chassis has 1.000" diameter front bar and 1.125" rear bar.
All 2007 E-series chassis from an E250 cargo van on up to the E450 Super Duty cut-away, use the same shocks.
That tells me the shocks are not well suited for the E450 if they are also used on a standard E250 van.
1825  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: August 31, 2010, 02:48:43 pm
Consider the lower priced Helwig front & rear bars.  My brother and I installed a rear bar on his E350 and he noticed the difference the minute he was on the open road.  He just returned from a 8000 mile trip to Alaska and the Helwig did great.

I have front and rear heavy duty Roadmaster bars.  They appear to have better mounting hardware, but how good is good enough?  Helwig bars are much cheaper and easy for the do-it-yourselfer.  They seem to be well built too, just the hardware less elaborate.

When ordering, be sure to get the right ones.  There are different bars for different years & model (E350 & E450).
1826  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: August 28, 2010, 10:58:25 pm
rockrat,

Are you saying you had the water pressure tank installed by the factory, but the pump was cycling on and off all the time?  If so, it sounds like something is wrong because it shouldn't do that.

If that is happening, maybe the psi in the pressure tank is set wrong.  There should be 18-20 psi in the pressure tank when empty.
1827  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Onan generator quit running on: August 28, 2010, 10:53:04 pm
Remember, if you have the Ford gas-V10 with gasoline generator, the generator gets it's gas from the main fuel tank.  When the main tank runs down to 1/4 full, the generator runs out of gas.  The generator fuel line is installed so it guarantees leaving the main Ford V10 engine with 1/4 tank of gas.

I don't know what a code #12 means.  Hopefully your generator troubles has quick resolution.
1828  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: August 27, 2010, 04:21:01 pm
Enjoy the project.  Either way, you will appreciate the results.

About Arches/Canyonlands.....My Favorite!  We were in that area last September for 3 weeks.  Click Here To See My Few Remaining On-Line Pics

If you want to camp primitive & cheap, there are numerous BLM campgrounds about.  Just be careful camping along the river in BLM's.  There are the tiniest bugs that easily make it through the window screens.  If it's hot, you can't run the genset or main engine due to camp ground restrictions, so you have to open the windows.  Turn on the interior lights and you'll have clouds of bugs around each light fixture.  They don't bite, just freak out my wife.  The only way to rid the ones inside is to wet a wash cloth and capture them between the damp cloth and flourecent light lens.  We learned to open the windows only when the lights were turned off.  Then no bugs.

Have a great trip.
1829  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: What Is That Banging I've Been Tollerating For The Past 3 Years? on: August 27, 2010, 03:35:35 pm
I will check that too.  Thanks for the insight and experience Tom.  ThumbsUp
1830  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water Pump -- Where is it? on: August 27, 2010, 03:29:35 pm
Paula,

I don't know where your pump is located on your 2551, but..........

When we bought our 2350 back in 2007, we too had a noisy surging quick-cycling pump.  It didn't sound pretty, moaning and groaning every few seconds.  After getting educated about this, I installed a small water pressure tank from Home Depot and also covered the pump with a home-made wooden enclosure for noise and protection from severe impact from stuff, given the pump is mounted in my outdoor storage compartment.  See here.



Since installation, the pump is just a quiet humm, and the quick cycling is gone.  I estimate close to 1/2 gallon of water is in reserves when the pump shuts off.  When on, it runs until the reserves in the pressure tank are back to full.  It changed the feel & quality of the entire plumbing system.  I think some of the "Quiet Factor" came when I re-plumbed the pump to the pressure tank instead of the RV.  Both inlet and outlet hoses for the pump are now flexible, one is the no-pressure soft tube from the main fresh water tank, the other a stainless braided hose used for a faucet or toilet at home.  With both in and out pipes being flexible, they dampen vibration so vibration no longer resinates through the RV plumbing.

We exclusively dry camp with only occasional electric hookup, so our water is always used on-board with the pump.  It really makes a huge improvement.  Other good news is that it cost me only $50 which if you are handy, you can do it just as cheap.  But if not, you can buy a much more expensive pressure tank with mounting feet from places like Camping World at nearly 5 times the price.

If interested, email me direct through my profile here and I will email you the installation procedure with pictures, in a Word document.  It does assume a 2350 like mine, so you'd have to deviate as needed.
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