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1831  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: furnace question on: May 14, 2012, 01:23:38 pm
Just sharing this experience as a "possibile" contribution.

In 2007 with a brand new PC,  the first cold night was spent at Brainard Lake, CO (10,300 elevation) so we wanted to use the furnace, but it didn't work.  In despiration I removed the outside access panel and noticed a switch.  I flipped it and the furnace worked perfectly and has ever since.

Maybe you too have a hidden switch that simply needs to be flipped.

Just a caution about the furnace.  Do NOT EVER, NEVER run the furnace with the access panel removed.  It sucks the LP exhaust right inside through the ducts.  If your PC is older and the detector goes off with the furnace running, it is possible the foam seal has deteriorated and the exhaust is getting sucked inside.
1832  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2552 weighted on: May 14, 2012, 01:08:27 pm
Tom, that is excellent data for a 2552 owner.   ThumbsUp
A "Helpful Ckicky" for you.

I keep procrastinating doing that.  Each year we head out, I promise myself to get the rig weighed, but it unravels quickly.
I recall the door sticker on our 2007 2350 (no slide out) states 60 rear, 65 front.  But I add 5spi more all around to be extra careful because the tires still look like they could use some more air.....even more than 5 psi.
1833  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Rear Storage on: May 14, 2012, 09:44:46 am
I think you are right about that.  My 41 gallon fresh water tank lays against the rear bumper.  That of course is not ideal for over-all vehicle handling when full of water.  It is easy to conclude that is why I needed to have some suspension upgrades to correct some handling concerns.

I think the newer design turns the tank 90 degrees and is mounted against the bathroom wall which sacrifices the depth of the compartment.  The storage door is then slid rearward where the tank used to be.  The area to the right by the rear tires gets utilized by the furnace.  The end result is the fresh water tank is placed near the center line of the rig and more forward.  That is much better for weight distribution, but sacrifices significant rear storage to achieve it.  I also wonder how well it fills.  I have read of some "burping" issues where air gets trapped and then the water can't get into the tank without using a filler thingy.

I wish someone with a newer 2350 would "check" me on my accuracy.

Here is a picture of a 2012 2350.  Note the locations of the water filler door, the main storage door, and furnace service door.

I wish I had a better picture of my 2007, but note the water filler door is rearward and the storage door is forward.  My furnace is on the other side of the motor home.  I do not have burping issues when filling the fresh water tank because the tank is right up against the filler door.
1834  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Rear Storage on: May 13, 2012, 11:53:02 pm
I just measured my 2007 2350 storage.  It won't be helpful for you k9aeg, but may be for others considering an older 2350.

Lower section: 36w x 16d x 8h
Middle section: 42w x 36d x 11h
Top section: 51w x 44d x 5h

Door Opening 34w x 22h (door height is less than the over-all compartment height of 24)
Keep in-mind that I added an accumulator tank and pump cover that takes up some room.  Most won't have but the water pump alone, out in the open.
In the main middle section, far right, you can see the two drain valves for the fresh water plumbing.

1835  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Added side turn signal on: May 13, 2012, 04:05:06 am
I love it too.  Very Clean Factory-Like Installation.  Great work with the project and the write-up ther bobander!  Here's a "Helpful Clicky" for you.

Do you recall the cost of Velvac mirrors with the integrated turn signals?  I wonder if you could buy them a  lot cheaper through PC-USA than through other suppliers.
1836  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rust ib frame -- am i being to anal on this concern? on: May 13, 2012, 03:41:41 am
....something called Marine jelly....
I am familiar with Naval Jelly.  Are they the same thing?
1837  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rust ib frame -- am i being to anal on this concern? on: May 12, 2012, 08:23:37 pm
My first comment is.....Thank you for including a picture.  That really helps in understanding your concern.

Unfortunately, Ford and other auto manufactures, don't use the same protectants on their truck frames as with other body parts.  Rust is a common problem on truck frames.

You mentioned that you picked up your PC in January.  The chassis might have gotten winter salt spray when delivered to the PC factory and/or on your way home from Elkhart.  I don't know how far you live from the gulf, but I have family in Florida who live near the ocean, and their vehicles are a wreck from the salty sea air.  Maybe your rust is simply from the humidity of the area.

Regardless of how it started to form, the rust is just begiinning.  Now is your best time to do something about it because it will be very easy to stop it with minimal labor.

There are a number of products on the market to stop the rust from continuing, without having to remove it.  I'll share my own experience when tackling severe frame rust with my Ford Ranger pickup truck.

Four years ago I bought a 1996 Ford Ranger with only 44,000 miles.  I got it for only $2000 because of rust issues.  I removed the bed to expose the majority of the frame and spent a few nights banging off loose flaking rust.  The rust was very bad, but caught just in time to save it.  After all rust layers were banged off, I applied two coats of a product called POR-15, then one coat of Rustoleum paint

Fast forward 4 years to today, my pickup truck frame is still rust-free.  Understand that my truck is my primary commuting vehicle in the Chicago area where winter salt spray is a very serious matter.

If you go to that website, they talk about a preparation product, actually an acid.  Your rust is so minor that you can apply POR-15 right on the rust in your picture without any kind of preparation.  POR-15 penetrates the rust just like a penetrating oil.  Be careful not to get any on your skin because it will be there until your body sheds that skin.
1838  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Rear Storage on: May 12, 2012, 12:50:25 am
Our 2350 is 5 years old.  PC-USA has made some variations since the 2007 model year.
- mounted a drawer in the lower open area
- subwoofer inside the compartment or not
- water tank mounted against rear bumper, or more forward which shifts the storage compartment forward/rearward

I also wonder if there is a design variation between 2012 slide out and non-slide out models.  It seems when you get a slide out, the furnace is mounted under the bed.  If you don't have a slide out, the furnace might still be mounted under the fridge.  It has to do with the fridge being in the slide out.

Replies from people with 2012 2350 models should be clear about which they have.
1839  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Still here on: May 11, 2012, 06:24:25 pm
You will surely want to size one up for yourself before putting down any money.

I now understand better, why the desire for a low window there.  You'd want it to be clear glass as well because the PC glass is so dark, you cannot see inside unless at very close range.
1840  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Still here on: May 11, 2012, 04:54:54 pm
With the talk of cords, during the research I've done so far the vast majorty have said that with 30 amp you have to watch what you use, and with 50 amp you can run most anything you want. I have seen the only way to get 50 amp on a PC is to get another ac unit, have ya'll found that 30 is ok or do you wish you had the 50 ?

There is so much we would like to have added to the one we will order, one thing that would be nice is a small window in the lower half of the door.....

Another question, have anyone that has used the "stinky slinky" found out that you needed a longer hose at any time?
It is NOT recommended to run the a/c when using a 30 amp extension cord, let alone two of them.

On rare occasion, running both the a/c and microwave, along with brewing a pot of coffee and using a hair blow dryer, can trip a breaker or the safety on the generator.  Even so, I think 30 amp is adequate for 99% of the time.  50 amp seems a bit much.  Just be aware of what's running before you amp up something serious.

About a lower window in the door.  My only concern would be the lack of privacy.  Maybe window blinds will work there.  It seems feasible.  PC-USA could answer that best.

Your height of 6'2" has me concerned for your head clearence to the a/c unit.  Have you walked around inside a PC yet with your shoes on?

Stinky Slinky?  No need for one of those with a PC.  No place to store one outside either.  The Sani-Con will serve you well and it's purge hose gets really, really long under pressure.  Don't worry about that one.

The only time a Stinky Slinky has value with a PC would be if staying in one place for weeks at a time.  You might want to setup for continuous drain-out.  I bought a Rhino sewer hose and an outdoor storage tube but yet to install it as the need has not yet arisen.  I got ahead of myself on that one.

Rhino Sewer Hose

Storage Tube
1841  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Still here on: May 11, 2012, 03:32:28 pm
We then went to the 2350 with the rear corner bed-thought we could deal with that. Not so! For us, the twin beds is the way to go.....
It seems most PC owners on this forum who initially owned a 2350, make the switch to a 2551 or something larger to rid themselves of the challenges with the rear corner double bed.  Anyone new here who is considering a 2350 should study the bed closely before buying the motor home because the odds here say you'll be switching.

My wife and I are the exception with our 2350.  We would have much more trouble shaking hands good night to eachother from across the isle, than dealing with our rear corner bed.  The compromise pictured above is an interesting alternative.
1842  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Still here on: May 11, 2012, 03:21:54 pm
I am not sure why you would need two 25' electrical extension cords in addition to the one with the coach.  I have been RVing since 1964 and have never had a need for anything but the cord with the coach.  That is an expensive buy if you never use them.  Maybe Ron could help on why he recommends them.
We usually camp in primitive camp grounds where electric is either non-existent, is limited to just a few sites or sometimes set far back for sharing sites.  Admittedly we most often don't need any extension, but the rare time we do, it is great to have.

On rare occasion when those few electric sites are taken, we'll camp next to an occupied electric site and use the extensions to get power to charge our batteries and use the long as an electric outlet is available.  We would never inconvenience the occupant, always asking before using.  Many people are more than happy to share when electric is scarce.

It is disappointing when you are 10' short of cord, resorting to using the generator, sometimes working within generator rules & restrictions.

As gl1500 says, 30 amp cords can be very expensive, around $125 each, but I found our 30 amp extension cords on clearence for $25 each.  With patience, you may as well.  Usually they are found on clearence at the tail end of the RVing season.
1843  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Still here on: May 11, 2012, 12:10:21 pm
You will get a lot of great input on options to consider, and such.

I got these items from Walmart, some found in their automotive-RV section

- Two 25' long 30amp extension cords (but don't use both with the a/c, a electrical safety concern)
- Two fresh water hoses (the white ones)
- A "Y" hose adapter with shut-offs
- A 2'x4' folding table that stores nicely in the rear compartment (when taking out those silly eyelets with bungie cords)
- Get a tool box and set yourself up with a nice set of tools and small supplies like fuses, hardware, etc.

About the rear ladder and roof rack.  It was our decision to get the ladder and rack but not mounted, just storing them at home.  5 years later and still no regrets about that decision.  But it is not a popular decision.  I figure if I ever changed my mind, I could still mount them.  But not so if doing it in reverse.

I wished we had the factory add a separate outdoor light switch with an extra light on each side and rear so we could light up the campsite in all directions when needed.

Also to have two porch lights, one one each end under the awning.  One light makes too much shadow.  If two lights is too bright, put in lower wattage bulbs.

If the one porch light today was mounted on the opposite side of the entry door, less bugs would get inside.  That would work well with the two light setup.
1844  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Electrical mystery - kitchen electric outlet has moods on: May 10, 2012, 10:04:34 pm
That is very wierd.  I would first start by killing the power to that outlet, remove it's cover plate and inspect the connections.  If all is well, then.........
1845  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Post delivery inspection on: May 10, 2012, 09:36:13 pm
Amen x2.

That pretty much summed up our At-Home inspection 5 years ago.  Nothing concerning or disappointing with workmanship and quality.

I do have to say that our 2007 2350 handled poorly when loaded up on our maiden voyage with tow vehicle.  I think the aspect ratio of the 2350 wheel base to it's rear over-hang is much worse than the 3100.  The following year in 2008 Ford equipped all E350 cut-away RV chassis with a rear sway bar so I think our 2007 was one of the last with no rear sway bar of any kind.  Also, in more recent years PC-USA relocated the 2350's fresh water tank more forward which reduces that heavy rear over-hang condition.  Our fresh water tank is against the rear wall.  When our fresh water tank was filled, that was when the condition was at it's worst.  But we addressed all such issues with aftermarket suspension upgrades since mile #800 on our odometer.  It was worth the $3,900 extra investment to make it "Tops".  Since then, our PC handles much better than my daily commute vehicle.

ragoodsp, it is probably my "poor handling" posts that you recall.

Congrats again!  Glad all is well. more thing.  I don't know if this holds true to today, but our dark cherry cabinetry had haze spots where putty was used to hipe some staples.  A damp wipe-down removed all that haze, looking so much better.  It was very simple, fast and easy to do.
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