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1831  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 05, 2013, 12:20:03 am
I moved the monitor and mounted a Scanguage-II

I need to do something with the scared headliner.  Maybe I could find a low profile sun glass tray from a junk yard vehicle.


Removing the original Ford mirror was a bit tricky because there are no screws to remove.  Following Ford's Service manual, I used a thin flat blade bent screwdriver and pry'd the black bottom away from the silver metal tab, while lifting upward.

Regarding the wiring and all, the trick in making the project easy was removing the center twin dome light (2 screws) and also the two visor hooks (1 screw each).  Then the headliner with curtain rod was easily dropped to fish wires around.  The original mounting pedistal for the monitor in the headliner is both screwed and bonded with double-sided tape.  It took some TLC to separate the headliner from the adhesive tape which stayed stuck to the mount.
1832  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 04, 2013, 05:20:39 pm
I sprayed the stair box with rust sealer spray and then covered it with 3/8 closed cell adhesive foil backed insulation.  This insulation really helped with road noise coming up thru and I am sure it helps with heat/cold.  Very inexpensive and looks really nice when complete.
The only concern with the adhesive insulation would be for returning rust without knowing it.  But I like the sound deadener idea.

I wish I had some left over POR-15 but it is so expensive and I need so little.  That is ideal for stop-rust, then insulate over it.
1833  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rust on interior of door frame on: February 04, 2013, 02:14:57 pm
With my 2007 2350, the only serious area of rust is the back side of the metal door-entry step.  When you look up from below (use a large mirror and light if you have to) that metal box that forms the entry step appears completely unprotected.  I need to do something with mine before it gets out of control.

Barry-Sue
I wonder if that is the same rust you are battling.  Maybe it has come through from the back side.  Maybe the real solution is sealing the back side to stop it from bleading to the visible side.
1834  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC Projects Over Winter on: February 04, 2013, 12:39:11 pm
2 frazzled,
Thanks for the tip, but I will be trying my best to get every square inch out of that base cabinet, with adequate minimum clearances.  I don't want to hit the back wall or other obstructions with any drawers.  I do have a table saw and other wood working tools and even some virgin 3/4" maple hardwood material on-hand.  I should be able to make these 3 drawers better/stronger  than if utilizing Ikea materials.
Years ago for our first motor home, I built this drawer which is very generic.  I plan to do it more professional-like for the PC, also utilizing the old PC ball bearing drawer glides..


Barry-Sue,
I should have included your concern for I too wondered before I pulled out the drawers.  The drawer modules do not support the counter top in any way for they stop many inches short of the counter top.  The left side of the left drawers seem to be attached to the back wall.  But I am feeling in the blind and am not sure of it.  Whatever attachments to the back wall or floor, I will duplicate or improve upon.
Good catch.  Thanks for bringing that up.
1835  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: PC Projects Over Winter on: February 04, 2013, 11:23:18 am
Okay, I pulled out all six roller-glide drawers and looked at the base cabinet interior.

PC builds the galley base cabinet with a smart production approach utilizing modules.  The center three drawers is one module, and the right side 3 drawers is another module.  The right drawers are 1 to 2 inches" deeper to the back wall.  The top two drawers are deepest vertically to help items clear the recessed stove top.  But the obstruction is maybe 1.5", not that much.  I compared my PC to my house kitchen drawers.  I am making the new single PC top drawer one inch vertically deeper than at home which means only 1/2" less than "home-normal" where the stove hangs down.  For my single extra wide top drawer, I will put in dividers to easily identify taller versus lower clearence areas.

I hope to reconstruct the cabinet interior without the use of a back wall as is required with the current modular design.  This will allow me to have deeper drawers.  I won't know my limits until after I disassemble the two drawer modules.  I anticipate differnet drawer depths for best utilization of the cabinet interior volume.

Working with Carol Simms, moments ago I ordered 3 custom size drawer fronts, and two rails.  Once I have them in hand, I will start this project.  Until then, it's back to the backup monitor and Scanguage-II.  I will take step-by-step pics for those interested, with costs too.  The hard part for me will be making three large strong drawers that are road worthy with significant weight inside them.

So I guess my Bed Bath & Beyond drawer mod will never see any use.  Anyone interested in it assembled to half rails with spacer/bushings attached, send me a PM and we can work out a price and shipping.  All you'd need to do then is to slide out your butcher block with rails, and slide in this one with rails.
1836  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 03, 2013, 07:44:32 am
Keep in mind the reason for the "when towing" fuel economy being not so bad is because once at our destinations, all locally driven miles in parks, cities visited. and all other poor gas mileage conditions, are done with the tow vehicle.  The PC is basically driven and towing only on the open road.
1837  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 03, 2013, 12:42:04 am
BTW Ron, I know this is off topic but you pulled a car with your PC and I am curious what kind of mileage hit did you take on fuel towing?
Here is our tracked fuel economy, trip averaging.

2007 E350 chassis with no mods to engine.
10.2 no towing
9.6 towing 2200 pound Toyota MR2
9.2 towing 4200 pound Jeep Liberty
1838  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: F-550 on: February 02, 2013, 11:03:27 am
It never hurts to ask Kermit, but I highly doubt he would change the process  in constructing his primary walls.  Maybe a question to ask would be, "How tight is the block insulation that is added inside the walls?  If I paid more, could I be guarranteed a better insulated motor home with existing insulation metheds?"

Yes the slide out is a source of cold & heat, and also insect infestation.
Do you have the thermal window pain option?  We have thermal windows.  We notice a very big change for the better.  Cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  The interior is also much more quiet in camp grounds, truck stops, rest areas, Walmarts, on-the-road, everywhere.  That was a pleasent surprise.

Of coarse another huge source of air infilteration is the cab up front.  Other than sun shades, curtians, and home made quilted walls, there is little that can be done.  Be sure your dashboard heater/defroster is in the "Off" or "Recirculate" position as it closes the front vents to the outside.

Our 2007-2350 has thermal windows and no slide out, and we find it nicely insulated, very comfortable in sub freezing temps.  The only sense of cold draft comes from the cab area, but we don't attempt to do anything about it becasuse we generally don't stay where it gets so cold.  Sometimes camping at high altitude in September, it gets below freezing at night.  I think controlling "drafts" is the biggest challenge.
1839  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 05:28:56 pm
I just ran CCleaner again.  Some things are fixed.  Not everything though.

Some pictures here still have some red X's.
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,91.0.html
The X's are controlled in PC testimonials.
1840  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 01, 2013, 01:32:46 pm
Ron: are you talking about taking your door off completely on the right side and making a stack of drawers?
I am seriously looking into......

- Remove the right side door and all 6 small drawers, nothing reused except for some drawer glides.
- Remove the three 2" wide cabinet pieces (2 horizontal rails & 1 vertical stile) that are in between the six drawers.
- Install 2 horizontal cabinet rails, finishing the cabinet to accomodate 3 large drawers that would span across where the six are today.
- The interior cabinet wall divider between left and right side drawers would need to be removed or modified.
- The depth of the new drawers would be determined by the closest back wall obstruction.
    I think the new drawers can be deeper (farther to the back wall) than the old ones but further research is needed..
1841  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 01:23:51 pm
Now my little shrug s are X'd
1842  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Toilet Maintenance on: February 01, 2013, 12:59:01 pm
I will have to inspect my seat.  Thanks Gradygal for that "Watch-Out-For" tip.
1843  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 12:57:36 pm
Okay, something still is not right.

After all this cleanup, when I go into the For Sale section, the pictures are the white box with red X and I can't get rid of them.

 shrug shrug shrug shrug shrug shrug
1844  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: testing on: February 01, 2013, 12:43:25 pm
Here at work, I now see that removing all the whte boxes with red X's is something I control.  As Aimee talked about cache, I believe that is the answer.

I ran a free computer program called CCleaner and that resolved the problem by cleaning out the cache and all that.  We use the free version of CCleaner at work.  Irene and I use it on our home PCs too.  It is very safe, reliable, and trust worthy.  I also clean out old registries.

If you are not comfortable download free CCleaner, then you'll have to go into tools/internet options and in there clean out the cache.  Don't ask me which buttons to select there.

CCleaner cleans it all out automatically and also a lot of other garbage elsewhere on your computer like temporary internet files and such.  If you have never cleaned your computer of all that kind of stuff, you will see lots more memory available and your computer should run noticably faster.

If you want to load the basic free version CCleaner, go to this website.
http://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/download
Then select the version on the lefthand side that says "X No Support"
I download from Piriform.com, the lower of the two choices, but either works fine.
Be sure to read through the subsequent forms as you will want to be notified of available updates and take advantage of them.

Ron
1845  Main Forum / General Discussion / PC Projects Over Winter on: February 01, 2013, 11:13:31 am
Thanks Gradygal for the picture.

I went into my rig this morning before leaving for work to take measurements.  I hope to order drawer faces to build extra wide drawers, going from six small drawers to three huge drawers.  I also will need two horizontal rails for the cabinet itself for in between the drawers.

My top left drawer is actually the deepest of the three, which you can see is the same with Gradygal's cabinet.  I am thinking of making it more shallow, better for  utencils, though is still one inch deeper than my utencil drawers at home.


Right now the drawer faces measure
8" - top
7" - middle
7" - bottom

I am thinking
6" - top
7" - middle
9" - bottom

The 9" drawer would be nice for tall cookware and even bulk food.

With dividers planned, nothing would slide around much when braking hard.
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