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1831  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Legal Action? on: April 20, 2011, 12:42:36 pm
Amen to that Aimee  ThumbsUp
1832  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: smoke detector on: April 19, 2011, 02:46:52 pm
Good to know Barry-Sue, Thanks!
1833  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 19, 2011, 08:24:46 am
Oops, yes, Richard2 is the one.  Sorry.  Still my offer is open if he is close by.
1834  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 18, 2011, 09:52:31 pm
Send me a PM with your exact location.  If we are close, drop it by and I will see what I can do, assuming the wood has not split badly.  A clean break is most hopeful.  Include a picture or two.  No charge for me giving it a try.  I could add some dowel rods too if it's clean.  Biscuits are better but I am not equipped for that.
1835  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette Table top Replacement on: April 18, 2011, 11:10:17 am
Often a good piece of wood like a solid table top breaks cleanly and can be repaired successfully as follows.

- Buy carpenter's wood glue from any home improvement store.  A common brand is Elmer's though any brand is fine.

- Apply the glue completely covering both broken raw-wood surfaces.

- Clamp the two toegther for the right bond, squeezing out excess glue

This is a good method using cheap pipe clamps.                      

- With a hot wet rag, wipe off excess glue, it cleans off well with warm/hot water.

- Check for alignment of the two pieces to assure a nice bump-free alignment, adjust as neccessary
- After a few days in the clamps, it's good, but since it broke once, I strongly recommend screwing two hard wood wooden rails on the bottom for increased strength.

If this is not somthing you can handle, and you do not know anyone who can do this, then as suggested, contact the factory and they will sell you another one.
1836  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Oxidation on: April 15, 2011, 11:59:16 am
I have felt your pain.   I personally do not have this problem with my 2007 as it is stored indoors during nasty Chicago winters.  BUT our old motor home HERE was so small it was our second car for it's first 5 years.  We drove it year round back then so it seen a good amount of salty winter driving.  The RV hardware got all messed up from the salt very quickly, just like you are showing.  I had a very hard time maintaining it.  I found a very good waxing in the fall on all that hardware helped a lot.  I also visited those do-it-yourself car washes a lot, just to rinse off the salt spray.  As others have shared, I did replace all the hardware I could, with stainless which helped a whole lot in general appearance.

That corrosion problem is one big reason why our trips with our PC to date are done in spring/summer/fall.  And remembering the hardware corrosion trouble (and little water leaks from such screw holes) with my old motor home, I told PC-USA to leave the roof rack and ladder off, just placing them inside the RV in pieces.  So that stuff is stored at home, maybe of value to the person I one day sell the motor home to.

What worries me more with corrosion, is all the hidden stuff under the chassis.  There is all kinds of wiring, fittings, etc, etc, that I think will get messed up much worse than the spare tire handle.
1837  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 06:28:03 pm
You guys are absolutely right about excessive shifting action at highways speeds, especially at lower highway speeds in the 55-60 mph range.  Every little incline, most commonly when the highway passes over secondary roads, the transmission goes down more than one gear.  Then the engine races wildly.  It is quite irritating.

I too wonder if a specialty shop could re-gear my E350 differential to the E450.  I think it would make a big improvement.

Yes, I did hear a while back from others that the E450 stance is noticably wider, going out beyond the rear fenders.
1838  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 04:08:20 pm
Glad to hear you guys are good.

Funny rmmpe mentions such a minor difference in fuel economy between his 2551/E450 and 2350/E350.  I have always thought my 2007 E350's rear axle ratio is not appropriate for my loaded-up motor home and tow vehicle together.  The wind never seems to cooperate either.  I feel my axle ratio bogs down the engine and transmission, especially at slower 55-60mph cruising speeds.  If I drove my 2350/E350 without water, passengers, gear, and tow vehicle, maybe the axle ratio I have would be satisfactory.  I am left to wonder if the E450 axle ratio would have been better for my application.
1839  Main Forum / General Discussion / Own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450? Read This. on: April 14, 2011, 02:30:37 pm
If you own a 2010 Ford E350 or E450 chassis, you need to read this.  It seems very easy to check to make sure your engine air intake is not blocked by an improper assembly process.  Click Here And Read
1840  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Inverter on: April 13, 2011, 02:44:43 pm
That sounds about right, the batteries going dead when leaving the storage switch on.  It sounds like they are going dead quicker than they should but maybe the batteries need a full slow re-charge for them to last longer.  Charge the batteries slowly to a full charge, then hit the kill switch by the main entry door.  The batteries if still in good functional condition, should retain their charge for a good long time.

I had one battery go bad on me a couple years into ownership.  I replaced both with larger ones from Wal-Mart.  With my main kill swtich turned off, my batteries hold a good charge for multiple months.  My PC is stored in a heated garage which does help too. Stored outside, they should still hold a decent charge for a month or more.
1841  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Inverter on: April 13, 2011, 11:49:58 am
....inverter still draws the batteries down even if the inverter switch is turned off.
On my 2007 with Tripp-Lite inverter.  It could be the same on your 2009.  There are 3 ways to turn off your inverter.  Two methods kill the inveter completely, one partially.

1) The main kill switch by the entry door - Turning this switch off kills 100% of the RV 12v system including the inverter.  There is no power drain.  No lights or anything else will function.  This switch should never be used when camping because it also kills the fridge regardless of which mode it is opperating under.  Use that kill switch and your food will spoil.

2) The switch physically located on the inverter itself - Turning this switch off, kills the inverter 100%, but keeps 12v opperations functioning as normal.  All lights, exhaust fans, etc still work.  I use this switch when leaving the motor home for the day.  There is NO power draw from the inverter this way.  Unfortunately the switch is not convenient to get to.

3) The Tripp-Lite control panel switch mounted under the fridge - In my opinion, this switch is pretty much useless.  With the phone jack plugged into it's backside, the inverter always draws 12-amps sitting idle which is rediculous.  It's only benefit is to always have 110v available which is fine for people who hop from one RV park to another.  But for primitive campers like me, this is NOT good.  With the phone jack unplugged and inverter turned off using the Tripp-Lite control panel, it still draws 1-amp just sitting idle.  I want zero draw so I turn on the inverter using the switch on the inverter, only under the following conditions.  1) when I need 110v  2) when plugged into shore power to charge the batteries  3) when generator is running to charge the batteries.

I think PC-USA switched to the later inverter to eliminate this saga.
1842  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: flat towing hybrid mercury mariner on: April 12, 2011, 06:42:17 pm
Part of your research should include reading through your owners manual in the section on 4-wheel-down towing.  Some vehicles require occasional "run time in-gear" for example, every 500 miles, put it into drive, then reverse, back and forth a few times while holding down the brake pedal.  The Honda CRV has that requirement.

If your Mariner has an extra gear shift lever for 2-wheel drive, 4-wheel drive low, 4-wheel drive high, and neutral, you are gauranteed save to tow without fussing every so often as long as that gear shift lever is in neutral while towing.
1843  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: April offer for Shoppers, Buyers, and Owners alike on: April 12, 2011, 12:23:30 pm
I understand Aimee.  I am just happy to connect people with a great product, sold by a great company.  
1844  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: April offer for Shoppers, Buyers, and Owners alike on: April 12, 2011, 12:16:51 pm well as an offer for referrals if you aren't in the market at the current time.
So when do I receive my first check for the past four years of referrals?  shrug  Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Making it clear to everyone here.  I have never referred a PC to any of you so I could recieve some sort of referral gift.  In fact I have never received a gift of any kind, or even a special discount on anything I purchased through the factory.  My referral is from the heart alone, believing in the motor homes PC-USA make, and their business practices.
1845  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: flat towing hybrid mercury mariner on: April 11, 2011, 11:25:00 pm
Roadmaster sells a tow bar bracket specific for the 2010 Mariner as shown here.

I would consider 4-wheel towing it.
CLICK HERE for the webpage.
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