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1846  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tomorrow is delivery day on: February 15, 2011, 03:47:05 am
Just curious, did you consider asking the factory if they could make a 2551 Sprinter, special for you?  It seems the 2551 is most popular, yet no Sprinter option.  Maybe it is simply too heavy for the Sprinter chassis.

I agree with your "snub nose" comment.  I always though the Ford's front styling change made in 2008 was a big mistake.  The E-series looks more like a construction vehicle than a van.  Funny that so many construction vehicles like dump trucks & tow trucks today are styled like vans.  Go figure.  Who the heck is in charge of the styling departments?   They need to flip-flop their thinking.  A truck should look like a truck, and a van should look like a van.  Soon we'll have little commuter cars that look like semi tractor trailers.  rolling on the floor
1847  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Tomorrow is delivery day on: February 14, 2011, 12:19:20 pm
Judi & George,

You will have to share your experience with the Ford chassis compared to the Sprinter chassis you gave up.  I assume the challenges with the rear corner double bed was the main reason for the switch to main isle twin beds.  Would you have gotton a Sprinter chassis if it was available for the 2551?
1848  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: help on: February 14, 2011, 02:02:26 am
That battery kill switch by the entry door should never be used when on trips, only when in storage.  That swiitch kills 12V opperations, from fridge to pump to lighting and fans.  We learned the hard way.  On our maiden voyage when ours was new, we went out for the day and I hit that switch thinking I was doing good.  Our food in the fridge suffered even though we were hooked to shore power.
1849  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: help on: February 13, 2011, 07:00:46 pm

Both the on-board water pump and the electronics for the fridge opperate off 12v.  So the inverter shouldn't be the culprit.  Everything should work fine even with the inverter turned off dead.  At least that's how it is with my Tripp-Lite inverter.

On my 4 year old model, I have a kill-all-12v switch by the entry door.  I assume in your case, it is on or you would be saying the lights don't work either.

You've checked the obvious stuff like fuses.  I don't know what to advise other than contacting Kermit at Phoenix USA.
1850  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Battery maintenance on: February 12, 2011, 04:10:35 pm
Yes, desulfating the plates is a real thing, not a gimmick.

I used to have a battery tender until it died.  They do work well.  My replacement is a multi-stage 4 to 40 amp charger.  4 amps for monthy maintenance, and 40 amps for quick charges from the generator when on trips.  Regardless of what you get, if used outdoors, you really shouldn't leave it tending unless you are able to set it up safely from the elements and critters.
1851  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910 Owners Opinions on: February 07, 2011, 02:20:01 pm
Yes that sounds about right.  I would NOT feel bad about that.  Getting as close to the GVWR without going over, gives you the smoothest available ride.  Have you ever rented a box truck to move someone's belongings from one house to another?  An empty truck jars you silly.  But once filled up with stuff, the ride smooths out.  But if you plan to load up your 2910 with extra people, you might have an issue.

For reference, when we bought our PC-2350/E350 in 2007, I was told the small slideout available for it back then, added about 400 pounds to the vehicle.  According to the sticker provided by Phoenix USA, our rig weighs 9200 pounds without water, our stuff and us.  We have the earlier E350 chassis so it's GVWR is 11,500 pounds.  41 gallons of water weighs around 400 pounds.  Us and our stuff combined weight is no more 600 pounds.  Maybe more like 450-500 pounds.  With no slide outs we have plenty of margin of around 1400-1500 pounds.  If we brought other people along, we'd still be loaded safe.

If my 400 pound for a tiny slide is accurate, I would assume bigger slides add maybe 500-600 pounds a piece.

1852  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New Owner (maybe) on: February 06, 2011, 11:02:03 pm
Yes, Congrats Billy!

You'll have to share with us how your new 3100 is handling for you.  I am sure you have been reading about the suspension upgrading many of us have been doing on our E350/E450's.  Of coarse it all starts with a fully loaded rig (water, gear, fuel, etc.) at a Ford shop for your free alignment, and also proper tire pressure.
1853  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910 Owners Opinions on: February 06, 2011, 02:24:05 pm
Simple Song,

I am no expert here at all, but reading so many posts on so many different brands of motor homes, the bigger the rig, the bigger the handling problems.  But it's not 100%.  A lot depends on the over-all weight distribution of the house and owner added stuff.  Your first experience under poor driving conditions will reveal a lot. 

If you have a tight budget, I advise to load up the rig as if to go on a trip, then drive it to a Ford service center that handles motor homes for an alignment.  People on other forums are saying that alignment is free from Ford.  Once done, then invest as needed from there.

Learning from our first motor home, we had everything done all at the same time as recommended from our local shop.

1854  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2910 Owners Opinions on: February 05, 2011, 12:14:06 pm
In our 2007 2350, the subwoofer would have been mounted under our bed.  I requested they mount the sub up front under a dinette bench.  If it's mounted up front somewhere far from the bedroom, I don't see a need for an on/off switch.

About the on-board water pump.  If they use the enhanced pump that stays on as long as the water is running, I'd be fine.  But if they use the generic pump that cycles on and off every few seconds, I'd say to request a water pressure tank be installed along with it.

I would also delete all the hooks and eyelets from the rear storage compartment, and do something different on my own.  I removed the eyelets to store a folding table, so I have holes in there for no reason.  I use the two hooks, but wished they were elsewhere inside, more to the right

You think like me about the roof rack and ladder.  Ask the factory include the parts to store at home, if for no other reason, for resale purposes.  If someone says "I'd buy it if only it had them"  then you can say, here they are, brand spanking new.

The same for the antenna.  If I were to order mine over again, I would request to keep it in it's box because it never works where we camp.  It works well mostly when we are in an RV park in-town where there is cable-TV service.  The antenna adds lots of holes and caulk on that beautiful B+ cap, it is ugly as heck, and it rattles with every bump.  I wish we didn't have ours.  But I have one so I bought that extra thingy to increase signal strength.  Still with digital technology, if there is a hill, canyon wall, mountain, big trees, anything between you and the have no signal.  We resort to putting in a DVD all the time, never bothering to crank up that dang thing.  I waste my time looking for a signal.  I suppose a lot depends on the kinds of places you stay at or near.  But for us camping in no-mans land all the time, the antenns is just a noise maker.

About the PC logo.  Ours is across the top in back leaving that big open area for personalizing.  Ask to see if they can do that for you as an alternative.  I always wondered why the factory changed that.  It seems a great area to add a nice picture or a map of states you've been.
1855  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote Entry Locks Using Key Fobs - Buy Them & Program Them Yourself on: February 03, 2011, 01:52:07 pm
I called my local Ford dealer today.  I gave him the last 8 digits of my VIN.  He said I lack the module that is required for remote entry.  So no remote entry for me.

ADDING Later That Evening:  I went into the motor home tonight and did the 8 cycle key turning sequence.  Yep, nothing happened.  That confirmed my 2007 E350 chassis is not "Remote Entry" ready.
1856  Main Forum / General Discussion / Ford E-Series Owners Manuals Are Available On-Line For Free In PDF on: February 02, 2011, 02:52:49 pm
Just go HERE and fill in the fields.  A window will come up with the manual on-line in PDF format.  I was able to view it page by page on-line and also save the PDF document on my computer.  It is just over 2.6 meg.
1857  Main Forum / General Discussion / Remote Entry Locks Using Key Fobs - Buy Them & Program Them Yourself on: February 02, 2011, 02:46:22 pm
A discussion about "remote entry" and key fobs, inspired me to look further into this.

This may apply to most or all model years, but for my 2007 chassis, the owners manual has a procedure for the owner to program as many as 4 remote key fobs by themself.  This is the procedure as described on page 60 in my manual.  It also has a diagram illustrating the positions of the key.

How to reprogram your remote entry transmitters
You must have all remote entry transmitters (maximum of four)
available before beginning this procedure. If all remote entry transmitters
are not present during programming procedure, the ones missing during
programming will no longer operate the vehicle.
Note: Ensure the brake pedal is not
depressed during this sequence.
To reprogram the remote entry
1. Ensure the vehicle is
electronically unlocked.
2. Place the key in the ignition and
turn from the (2) LOCK position to
(3) OFF.
3. Cycle eight times rapidly (within 10 seconds) between the (3) OFF
position and (4) ON. Note: The eighth turn must end in the (4) ON
4. The doors will lock, then unlock, to confirm that the programming
mode has been activated.
5. Within 20 seconds press any button on the remote entry transmitter.
Note: If more than 20 seconds have passed you will need to start the
procedure over again.
6. The doors will lock, then unlock, to confirm that this remote entry
transmitter has been programmed.
7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to program each additional remote entry
transmitter (up to four transmitters).
8. Turn the ignition to the (3) OFF position after you have finished
programming all of the remote entry transmitters.
9. The doors will lock, then unlock, to confirm that the programming
mode has been exited

In another discussion, someone stated they are missing the electronic receiver in their vehicle so if you too lack that receiver, you would have to buy one.

I'll have to buy some fobs and try this myself.  Doing some quick shopping on Ebay, it seems I can buy 4 new fobs for $70 total, including shipping.  I have made contact with a new fob seller, and will report back to you on my findings.  $70 for 4 new fobs seems too good to be true.
1858  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Remote lock update on: February 02, 2011, 12:06:16 pm
Some vehicles offer a way for the owner to program remotes by themself.  Has anyone actually read through the owners manual to see if that features exists on the E350/E450?
1859  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: February 02, 2011, 12:01:27 pm
Ron, I emailed Mike Bronzini; they sell chassis parts and had a sale till Feb 1. He offered to extend it for me, when we get the 3100 I will order a Trac-Bar and when we get home the sway bars.
Excellent Billy!  Those E350/E450 suspension upgrades is a great investment for safety, driver fatique, and over-all passenger comfort.  I wish the US government would mandate them for all motor homes.  The cost per RV would come down significantly, and RVers and the people around them would be much safer too.
1860  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: February 02, 2011, 11:53:37 am

All mounting screws attach to adjacent cabinetry. None into the B+ dome because like you say, the screws would go through to the outside.  Also, the location for screws are in places where they don't pierce through into an adjacent cabinet interior.

It's been over 3 years, but I seem to recall pre-assembling my custom book slot cabinetry, then work it into the PC cabinet.  It is screwed only into the floor with 2 screws, and side wall of the cabinet with 1 screw using flat head counter-sunk screws, the 3 favor the front for ease.  Screws were located where the opposite side would not show.  You don't want to see a screw coming out into view or into another cabinet.

The top shelf is a glove fit to the B+ fiberglass dome.  That shape is odd so I had cut a pattern of it from cardboard then transferred the pattern to the board.

The vertical slots have a little gap to the back wall because of the curvature there.

The assembly is well fitted to the wood side wall of the cabinet.

There are a couple inches between the assembly and the front.  This makes getting things in and out from it easiser, and also makes it possible to get the pre-assembly into the cabinet in the first place.

About the right side shelf with power strip.

The shelf is shaped like the other side, done in the same manner with a cardboard pattern.

There are 3 stubby "L" brackets that screw into interior wood in a tri-pod placement.  The power strip is mounted to the shelf itself, and is plugged into the PC supplied outlet there.
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