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1846  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Auto drain valves on: October 04, 2011, 05:33:28 pm
You are right......But that takes the fun out of it.  Smile
1847  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Solar panels on: October 04, 2011, 04:55:49 pm
To find the steel rafters, I advise to get a pair of magnets out from an old computer hard drive.  They are extremely strong.  They should be able to find the steel beam easily.  These are examples of computer hard drive magnets.

Ask the PC factory this question:  Is the steel rafter a box beam, an "L" beam or a "T" beam.  If a "T", you won't want to hit the center.  If an "L" or box beam, you will.  Get instruction on how to best locate and screw into a rafter.

About getting the wiring from the roof solar panel down to the inverter where you'll need to make the final connection.  Assuming your fridge is not in a slideout, it has a roof-top propane exhaust vent.  Run the solar panel wires down that chimney.  The wires come out the bottom just inches from the inverter.  The exhaust vent is not going to damage the wires as there is little heat.  The chimney is for propane fumes.

This was told to me by the PC dealer I bought my rig from in 2007 when I was considering large roof top solar panels.  I did eventually decide against the investment.
1848  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Auto drain valves on: October 04, 2011, 03:43:01 pm
On the 2350, both valves are physically close to eachother, and close to the mascerator pump.  Both are heard with equal volume of "eaeaeaear".  If you look underneath the rig when flipping a switch, you can see each valve open and close.
1849  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Planning trip to utah, Colorado, and the Grand Canyon on: October 03, 2011, 05:27:35 pm
Our campsite shown here.......
We would see the canyon light up at night from the river tours.
But the tours didn't get close to our site as we were upstream a little too far to get the full lighting effect.
At night, the tiny little river nats went right through our window screens.  Where are those bats when you need them?
1850  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: battery storage/ maint on: October 03, 2011, 02:54:06 pm
I advise to remove all 3 batteries, bring them home and store them inside where temps are controlled.  I would not worry about starting up the rig in the winter either.  People do that, but I really question the benefits.  Others will chime in with opposing views to mine so you will have to decide for yourself.

When placing the motor home in storage....
- top off the main fuel tank
- completely drain the black and gray tanks, and also the sanicon by using the 3" poop drain cap
- completely drain, then put in the pink anti-freeze in the freash water system
- put 80psi in all tires to minimize ground contact
- cover all windows with sunshade material because using your regular shades just degrades them from the sun
- open all cabinet doors, fridge and freezer to circulate air better
- turn your dash board to max a/c to deter rodents from getting into the interior through that air iinlet
- place mouse/rat poison on the floor, just in-case
- don't leave any windows or roof vents open
- a full RV cover or tarp is not required, but never hurts

If you inspect it on rare occasion, bring the chassis battery with you.  You might need to start the engine to heat up and dry out the interior of any dampness.  But if it's well sealed and fairly dry, don't.

If you do run the engine, make sure the dangling RV battery cables are insulated.
Also run the generator.
1851  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: October 02, 2011, 01:15:06 am
I'm catching a 6am flight out of Seattle, on my way to Elkhart.  I'll be picking up my new 2552 on Monday!!
I will start heading back west either Monday or Tuesday, depending on what time we wrap things up.  It's going to be a long solo trip, but the DW will be waiting, as she could not come because she just had a proceedure done on her knee.

I plan to take my time (to a degree) and enjoy myself!!!

For the non-local customer, the factory advises to camp one night locally to make sure you are satisfied before heading home.  You might want to do that.  If you think something isn't right, return the next morning and the factory makes you their highest priority to get you on your way.  Sometimes you think something is not working right when it's opperator error.  But sometimes they will need to repair, adjust, or replace something they did not catch in final inspection.  Sometimes it just the flipping of a switch too, furthering your education.

The first time we camped in a cold climate, we were in the Rockies.  The furnace didn't work.  I found a switch located behind the outdoor panel.  Things like that can happen.....nobody's fault.
1852  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leveling jacks on: September 30, 2011, 05:25:13 pm
Because we most often camp in primative campgrouinds, it is common for us to deal with uneven parking pads.  The worst I recall was a site we had in Crane Flats campground in Yosemite NP.  Fully stacked with blocks, the rig was still sloped badly.  I would have looked for another site but it was slim pickings.  A travel trailer would have been better there.
1853  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leveling jacks on: September 30, 2011, 01:15:25 pm
Thanks all for the commentrs on leveling jacks.

lmichael specifically, thanks for the clarity that sunk in for me.  I understand better now in regards to expectations.

I see that leveling jacks have value, especially when I get more "senior" in life.  I am sure having them installed on my older rig is always an option I could exercise later.  

You mentioned "Since you've used blocks for so long and can probably judge what's needed to get level".  Actually those little Hoppy Levels work great on determining how high the blocks should be stacked so I get the rig within an inch of level at the first attempt.  Each tick mark on the Hoppy level represents one inch.  I count how many marks the bubble is off and know right away how many blocks I need.  I use the bright orange Lynx Leveling blocks that are one inch high each.  So basically how many ticks from "level" equates to how many blocks high the stack needs to be.

I also have Hoppy Levels inside the cab by the driver.  When we pull into a site, sometimes I can position our rig around on the parking area to get level enough without blocks, using the inside levels as my guide.

Still pushing a few buttons would be very handy.  We didn't want to spend the money for them at the time, and I was also a bit concerned of the complexity of installation, and general reliability.  It just seemed like a lot of mechanical stuff that I could do without.  Maybe in my later years, I will have different priorities.  That option is always on the table.

Thanks Again all.
1854  Main Forum / Adventure Anywhere / Re: Planning trip to utah, Colorado, and the Grand Canyon on: September 29, 2011, 11:28:24 pm
If you do just one Jeeping experience, "The One" to do is to rent a 4x4 Jeep Wrangler from Farabee's on the south side of Moab, UT for the day.  Take the trail starting at Potash through Canyonlands National Park down to the Colorado River and then up the mining road called Shafer Trail.  What an experience that is.  If you have a little extra daylight, once up from the canyon, leave the park and take the return trip back to Moab through Long canyon.  Farabee's has the entire day's ride all mapped out for you so it's perfectly clear where to go.  You can't get lost.

A novice can do it, but your nerves might get tested once in a while.  If you dare, walk across Musselman Arch too.  It's one of the really nice highlights.  You also drive on the mid shelf through Dead Horse Point.  It's a real adventure and extremely scenic.

Search on Google for Shafer Trail, Musselman Arch, and Long Canyon.  I recall it's under 100 mile round trip but it will take all day.  You'll burn up only 1/2 tank of gas so don't worry one bit over running out of gas.  Jeep rental will cost around $130.  It is great for the beginner, yet still awesome for the experienced.
1855  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leveling jacks on: September 29, 2011, 12:20:18 pm
I do not have leveling jacks, but admittedly have always been curious about them.

We camp most often in primative camp grounds where on occasion, the campsite is quite sloped, so much that leveling blocks cannot be stacked high enough.

With leveling jacks, do you find yourself in similar predicament?  Do you say at times......"That parking pad won't work with my jacks" ?

Do the jacks extend down so far, and are strong enough as to actually lift the front and rear tires off the ground?

If on a slope, is there risk of the jacks getting too much horizontal pressure as to collapse, fold, or even damage them or the rig?

What are the expectations with leveling jacks?  Do they offer the same as blocks with the same "slope limitations", offering the convenience alone?  Or do they offer more than blocks can provide?
1856  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Tires for Sprint Phoenix Cruiser on: September 29, 2011, 12:04:47 am
I found that the tires on my 2010 rv are dated 2007.
What model year is your chassis that the tires are 3 years older than the PC model year?

Oh Wait!!!

I recall Phoenix USA bought up a pile of 2008 Sprinter chassis in 2009 at bankruptcy auctions.  You likely have one of the 2008 chassis.  Kermit did a real smart move to stay in business when the motor home industry died.  He bought up Sprinters at auctions cheap, and then offered PC-Sprinters with those 2008 chassis priced at his cost.  Basically the Sprinter cost you people the same as an E350 Ford during that special he was offering in 2009/2010.  It was ingenious, a win-win for both PC-USA and their customers.  You have a "Bargain Sprinter".  With everything you shared and now understood, if your tires are not cracking, I would not yet replace them.

Adding:  I need to go to sleep.  I just read your initial post.  You clarified you have a 2008 chassis right from the start.  Duh to me.
1857  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Tires for Sprint Phoenix Cruiser on: September 28, 2011, 08:35:53 am
My input on the life of tires.

If your rig is outdoors all the time, and is near the max load rating all the time, I would agree that changing tires sooner would be a safe bet.


If like me, your rig is stored indoors protected from the sun & temperature extremes, your rig is light weight for the tire rating, and there is no serious cracking of sidewalls, then you can extend their usefulness.

Our first motor home stored in a climate controlled environment, was very light weight, only 5000 pounds max loaded with duel "D" rated tires.  We owned the motor home for 24 years.  I sold the motor home with it's 3rd set of tires on it.  They were 12 years old and still looked great.  The first two sets didn't last as long for other unrelated reasons.

With our 2007 2350 weighing in around 10,000 pounds loaded for trips, and original Michelin "E" rated tires, stored indoors, etc. etc. I don't plan on changing tires for a very long time to come.  I hope to get 12+ years from these too, baring any unique problem that might arise like damage from road debris for example.
1858  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Hershey RV show on: September 26, 2011, 05:19:08 pm
You people are trading up like a PC is a PC.  PC does not mean "personal computer".  You have me smiling big here.

Interesting how some have went from a 2350 to a 2551 or 2552.  My wife would be the first to admit getting in and out from our 2350 is not convenient.  She does sleep against the window wall and I do get up for her to get out.

But if we traded for twin beds, our first trip out saying good night to eachother from across the isle, would be telling us we bought the wrong one.

Personally I think model 2950 (No slide for us) with a double or queen bed real close to the back wall with people sleeping sideways would work very nicely.  It would be much easier for both to get out.  Yes the isle person still has to get out first, but with an open floor - open room design, that would be so much easier.  They could even make the bed higher like a fancy king size bed at Macy's, then build lots of drawers under it to be your bedroom dresser and other storage.  With the bed higher and away a bit from the back wall, setting the bed would be very easy.  Leave most else wide open as not to hit your head on anything when setting the bed.  They could install a nice mirror on the back wall and nice mood lighting too.  Make it real nice, maybe even romantic.   Wink    Okay.....hang a TV somewhere as an option.  Just don't watch the football game in there.  LOL

My 25'-0" garage won't handle anything longer than our 2350, so there is no PC upgrade for us.  But such a modified 2950 would be nice.

Model 2950
1859  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Finally weighed my 2551 on: September 26, 2011, 02:58:36 pm
Very good data for you 2551 owners.

I need to do that.

Thanks for sharing!
1860  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electric sofa/bed question on: September 25, 2011, 11:21:50 pm
DJM, That sounds interesting, but looking at the first picture the sleeping area seems a bit narrow in both directions.

For reference, here is the new sofa with memory foam.  I don't think it is possible to fully open the bed if you do not have a slideout.  Maybe they use a 2 sectional instead of a 3 sectional.  Then I suppose you would be sleeping forward/rearward instead of side to side.  When you do not have a slideout, the furniture along that wall gets a lot bigger.  My dinette without slide is quite spread out.  I am 5'-10" and I can sleep on it setup as a bed and fully stretch out.

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