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1846  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350 on: October 27, 2012, 09:09:54 pm
Hi George,

I received your email and will email you my writeup and template.

I never addressed the window shade in the entry door.  The discs I used were selected for their durability, a good match, and look factory-like to me, rather than the after-thought that it is.  

Because your door requires an odd shape plate, maybe something of painted metal would be a better choice.  Just be sure the material is thick enough as not to deform if hit hard.

The walls of PCs use a vacubonded process  The outer material is a quality strong gel coat fiberglass.  The inside finished wall is a masonite type of material finished with a paper coating that is water & stain resistant and looks nice.  Between the outside and inside walls is steel framing similar to studs on a house with top plate and bottom plates.  The air space is filled with block foam.  The foam is very similar to a disposable styrofoam cooler.  There is also special metal framing used for windows and a/c unit.

Kermit explained this is how the assembly process is done.  An adhesive is applied to inside of the fiberglass and masonite panels, and also to both sides of the block foam, steel frame, and window frames.  All components are aligned and then placed inside a huge baggie-like thing and the air is sucked out to draw the masonite and fiberglass together.  It is sort of a clamping method to assure everything makes contact evenly.  After the adhesive has cured, that wall panel is ready for the motor home.

If you want to mount anything substantial, say a shelf or TV.  Just like at home, it is best to locate a stud.  Screws and wall anchors are only as strong as the inside wall board which is only 1/8" thick.  It's not much.  I don't advise to use self-tapping screws in the wall board, but rather pre-drill a pilot hole to the inside diameter of the screw threads.  This assures the masonite won't fracture, creating a weakened condition.

Your 2008 rig has a gas charged door closure, right?  Maybe the door closure was introduced in 2009.  I did not use a bungy cord.  It is regular rope.  Any regular rope stretches a tiny little bit when pulled hard.  A chain or cable for example would not stretch at all which would provide an abrupt stop.  My button on the door for the rope to loop around, is screwed on a short threaded rod.  That rod is screwed into the sheet metal of the door.  I tapped threads into the hole of the door metal.  Given the stresses are at 90 degrees to the tapped hole, there is no concern of the button ripping out from the door, or deforming the metal door in any way.
1847  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Blue Ox got the best of me on: October 26, 2012, 10:45:32 am
I have heard of people installing a rear trac bar along with a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar which end up mechanically conflicting with eachother.  But I never heard of this particular interference.

Contact the trac bar supplier.  Maybe you need a different bracket in your mounting kit which is sometimes the case.  The supplier will most often supply and ship "the magic part" free of charge.

I'd like to hear how your story concludes.  Good Luck!
1848  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 23, 2012, 09:18:27 am
.....Ron practically ordered my PC before I purchased it from East Acres.  I think he'd make a great salesman for Phoenix Cruiser.  B Golden  Grin   Grin   Grin
rolling on the floor
1849  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 21, 2012, 08:31:03 pm
Denny and Barb,

Now you are talking!  ThumbsUp
I would love to retire to do more of what I already based charity work, mostly through our church.  And all the time in between would be about the two of us and family.  I so desire all that kind of "Busy".
1850  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rather be camping? on: October 20, 2012, 02:44:28 pm
I could not agree with that statement so I wrote something else.  I can have a very good day at work, and bad day camping, though most often reveresed which is why I wish I could retire.
1851  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: (outside) water drain "faucet," etc. on: October 18, 2012, 09:09:35 pm
I think the turning portion just pops out the top.  Very easy to replace without messing with the rest of the fitting and all
1852  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / How To Determine If Your Ford Is "Keyless Entry" Ready on: October 18, 2012, 04:37:54 pm
There are two methods to determine if your Ford was originally setup for Keyless Entry while it was being assembled on the Ford production line.

1) Electrically
2) Visually

#1 - Electrically
- Sit in the driver seat with all doors closed, and buckle your seat belt.
- Be sure everything is turned off, like the climate control, radio, head lights, etc.
- Put your key in the ignition and turn to the OFF position which is one click before the dash board warning lights all come on.
- Then in "Quick Succession", turn the key one click ON, then one click OFF, a total of eight times ending at the ON position.  Never turn the key so far as to crank over the engine.
- If the horn honks once, then you are "Keyless Entry Ready".  You only need to purchase key fobs and program them per your owners manual.
- If the horn does not honk, then you are not setup for Keyless Entry.

#2 - Visually (Do This If The Horn Doesn't Honk)
Visually inspect to see if the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) the keyless entry support module is installed under the dash board.
Open the passenger door and stay standing outside.
Lean into the passenger footwell with a flashlight and look above the right side kick panel for a module roughly 5" wide x 4" tall, screwed to the side wall with two screws, and many wires coming down from it.
If you have a blank space with two screw holes but no screws, then you do not have the module, therefore are not setup for Keyless Entry.

Unfortunately, the main wire harness for Keyless Entry is significantly different than without.  You cannot simply purchase a VSM module new or used, and plug-n-play.  There are not supporting connectors to work with.  If you really wanted Keyless Entry, you would have to resort to an aftermarket system like a Viper for example.

This data was given to me from a friend who is a Ford mechanic.  He was not certian of differences if any between model years which is why there are two methods of verification.

1853  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / So Your Ford Died And Won't Start. First Try This. on: October 17, 2012, 10:15:54 pm
While checking to see if I have a keyless entry module installed on my 2007 E350 chassis, I stumbled on my Fuel Pump Reset Switch.

All you Ford based PC owners should know about this switch.  If your engine suddenly dies, turns over during restart, but simply won't start, the first thing to try is pressing that switch to reset the fuel pump circuit.  Spend a little time to locate it now so you know where it is when needed.

I assume the location is consistent between E-Series model years.  Open the passenger door.  Stand outside and put your head in the footwell.  With a flashlight, read the indented writing located near the top of the right side wall panel.  It indicates where the switch is.  You reach over the top of the panel and blindly feel for the switch which has a rubber plunger feel to it.  With the engine off, press the switch down to the street to get a feel about it.

The purpose of this safety feature is to kill the fuel pump in the event of an accident that ruptures the fuel system.  This prevents fuel from being pumped all over an accident scene.  On rare instance under normal use, a very hard bump on the road can trip this safety feature leaving you stranded.  If your engine dies for no reason, or turns over but won't start, first push the button and see if all is well again.

Our old Ford Taurus would give my wife trouble with this safety feature.  About once every-other year she would call me that her car wouldn't start.  I had to remind her each time to push that reset button.  It gave her trouble only when shopping.  I wonder if people would back into her parked Taurus, tripping the safety feature.  Maybe it was too sensitive.

I think such a switch is on every Ford product.  Any Ford you own, check to see where that switch is located for future reference.  It may be covered in the owners manual.

Blessings All!
1854  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bolts in the Floor on: October 17, 2012, 12:34:47 pm
George, I am not very familiar with your specific coach, but you describe the area above the generator.  Those bolts might be anchoring the generator mounting brackets.  If this is true, one consideration would be to install wood flooring.  The top of the raised floor might be higher than the bolts, or flush where a decorative plug would do the trick.  If it is a close call, I would tighten the bolts and then grind them down 10 to 20% to tweek them to a height that works.  But DO NOT over-grind.  I am talking just a little bit could be allowed and still be 100% safe.

Just thoughts here from me, not hard recommendations.  I assume the slideout could be adjusted to the new floor height, but I really have no clue how the factory handles this for their wood floor installations.
1855  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: October 14, 2012, 12:14:14 am
Looking good there Sisters!
1856  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Removing The Macerator Pump on: October 12, 2012, 07:30:44 pm
Gooooooood News.  Kevin In Stealth Mode was right on.  Buried beneath the plastic are 2 disconnects.
Good to know when the day comes to remove mine for whatever the reason.
1857  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Removing The Macerator Pump on: October 12, 2012, 05:23:40 pm
Personally, I would opt for a sealed connector with water-tight gaskets like the auto industry uses.  Wiring to the pigtails, I would solder and shrink-tube over the solder joint for a water tight splice.

I think you can buy the connector pair with pigtail wires at any auto parts store.  Just be sure to select a very heavy guage version to accomodate the amperage of the macerator pump....whatever that is.
1858  Main Forum / Polls / Re: Tow Another Vehicle (Toad)? on: October 12, 2012, 09:19:12 am
Ron, is this what you wanted?
Yes Barry...Thank You!  How did you set this up?
1859  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Conserving Battery Reserves Without Shore Power on: October 12, 2012, 08:35:46 am
When you hook up your 40 amp charger while running the generator, do you disconnect the house batteries first to prevent back feeding into the converter? My understanding is that on the newer converters, back feeding can cause them to over heat and possibly cause a fire. You would then have a pile of ashes where your PC was sitting.
No, I don't do that.

Your concern came up before but my recollection is a bit foggy.  I recall it's okay because the inverter thinks the batteries are charged and then gets out of the charging mode.  The voltage across the batteries while hooked up to the B&D is within proper 12V system standards.  The inverter simply thinks the batteries are fully charged.  The same rules apply as done with a car battery.  A running engine with a battery charger hooked up to it does not damage anything.

Just like with a car, if I didn't have the two batteries to dump the power into, say simply hooking up the charger to the RV without batteries to absorb the energy, then I wonder what bad things could happen.  But given it's a smart charger that reduces the amperage as the batteries recover, there is no excess power in the electrical system.

Keep in mind I have an older Tripp-Lite.  Tom, your concern may be valid with the Xantrex.  Before following my method here, PC owners with a Xantrex should heed your warning and do some research.
1860  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Conserving Battery Reserves Without Shore Power on: October 11, 2012, 08:44:51 pm
I had wondered about those huge solar panels that some here have mounted to their roofs, but given we seek shade tree campsites all the time, they wouldn't be putting out much.
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