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31  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: CLEARANCE LIGHTS REAR on: May 26, 2015, 12:34:53 pm
I think Sparky has rear LED marker lights so there are no bulbs to burn out.  Am I right in saying we all have rear LED marker lights?  Or are only the tail lights inside the rear bumper LED?

If LED, new fixtures could yield the same results.  I would check the voltage at each light.  If something isn't right with power, look under the rig, check the wiring there.  It could be a corroded connection there.  Look around there for crimped connectors, gently shake them while someone watches the lights up top for intermittent-on.  You may need to trim the wires and re-crimp.  Better yet is to solder and shrink tube them.  If crimping, seal the crimp connection with silicone grease.
32  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: May 26, 2015, 12:24:51 pm
If installing both a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar and a rear trac bar yourself, you might run into a mounting issue.

The shop that installed our rear Roadmaster bar and rear Henderson trac bar back in 2007 on our 2007 E350, had a unique challenge, I recall it was something involving "shared mounting points".  My point here is that you might run into a situation where the stock hardware may not work as designed.  Plan for some time on the phone with one or the other companies on how to address it.

Again, that was 8 years ago on our 2007 E350.  Maybe the chassis today, or the parts designed for them are different.  I share this not to discourage getting both, but rather to prepare you for a potential hick-up.
33  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 23, 2015, 04:45:12 pm
Very interesting Paul.  I am glad you took the time to examine your particular situation, and made some repairs & improvements.  It sounds like you did real good.

You have me wondering if you could change your heat register to something rectangular, maybe 2" x 10", or would it be 3"x10".  Inside the wall have a ductwork adaptor to change from the 2 or 3" round to the rectangle opening.  This way the air could get around the commode much easier.  Maybe your adaptor-duct could have an insert to divert the air to the ends.

In my mind I am imagining something along the lines of a 2" diameter shop vac floor thingy like this, only made of sheet metal to your exact requirements.  You might be able to find what you need in a heating & a/c contractor's store, or even a home improvement store.
34  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Wild Ponies Of Assateague Island Assateague State Park, Maryland on: May 21, 2015, 10:14:29 am
Very nice Bill.  Thanks for sharing.  Cheer
35  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 19, 2015, 12:14:43 pm
Interesting information Tom.  I had thought the furnace exhausted via 3 standard size ducts.  My rig is now 8 years old so maybe that was the case back then, different lately.  Then again, maybe I have 3 & 1 like you describe.
36  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 18, 2015, 11:32:44 pm
The other issue is volume.  What I really need to do is increase the hose coming to the register (and of course put in a matching register to the new hose) since it is considerably smaller than the hoses going to the rest of them.  I do not recall the diameter, but air volume wise, ole PieRSquared really gets you with a hose even an inch smaller in diameter.  Paul

So your bathroom duct and heat register are smaller than the others?

It sounds like that is your problem.  Somehow you need to get the standard insulated hose (the kind that resembled a dryer slinky vent) to a standard round heat register.  I wonder if you could use the common expandable aluminum non-insulated dryer vent material as the duct.  Just make it oval where space gets tight and left round otherwise.  Because it would not be insulated, you will get some initial heat loss, but it will be in your insulated outdoor storage compartment, maybe nice to get some heat in there anyway since that is where the fresh water tank is.  Well, maybe it's already warm in there given your furnace is in there.

Our outdoor storage compartment is insulated, but no furnace heat is pumped through it.  It is sealed off from the house with very little convection action given the foam mattress is a good insulator.  I suppose hard core winter camping with tank water might present a problem for us.  But then again, I can't see us camping in repeated single digit conditions.
37  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: May 18, 2015, 11:40:10 am
Last week I installed flexible hose on both sides of the pump. I used 30" hose and made a loop in both sections as was recommended on one of the posts I read. It was a fun project and I was pleasantly surprised how much of a difference it made.

Great idea.......thanks for the suggestion.

So glad it worked out for you.
38  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 18, 2015, 11:34:08 am
I like AMWs little add-on thingy.  I can see value in that to resolve such an issue.

I find it fascinating how we all have different experiences.

Without examining my own heat registers, I recall they can be redirected by unscrewing the register from the wall and turn 90, 180, or 270 degrees.  Unfortunately the toilet might not let you get to all 4 screws.  I also think registers can be replaced with other versions that easily spin in any direction.

Back in 2010 when the factory increased the size of the slide out for the 2350 (and maybe other models) to include the fridge, the factory had to relocate the furnace from under the fridge to under the rear corner bed on the other side of the rig.  In my opinion a few key sacrifices were made to get that all to work.

1) outdoor storage compartment got a lot smaller
2) one kitchen drawer was lost for a heat register
3) apparently that one heat register does not heat the bathroom adequately

Because our furnace is under the fridge, it is very close to the bathroom so the bath gets very warm.
Here is our bath heat register.

One register faces the isle as shown here,

The 3rd register warms up our feet at the dinette.  Unfortunately you can't make it out well.  It is in the left bench close to the outside wall, aimed at the right bench.

Though not practical in our situation, a 4th register near the entry door, aimed forward would be nice.  I think the newer 2350s have one there.  Actually I think the furnace is limited to having 3 heat registers anyway.

I wonder if you order a new 2015 2350 without a slide out, is the furnace under the closet like our 2007 2350, or is it under the bed?

If our furnace was under the bed like most or all done today, I would not have been able to reconfigure our kitchen cabinet Detailed Here
39  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Poor Handling on our 2013 2100 on: May 18, 2015, 10:02:32 am

It is good to "think" BMW.  You'll never get close regardless of the investment.  But the closer you get, the better the safety, the motion-&-parked comfort, and driving pleasure you will have.  I look at it this way.  Spending an additional $2000-$3000 on an $80,000 to $90,000 motor home is just one more "option" to choose.  I once encouraged Kermit to consider offering a suspension package option to his model line-up, but I never heard back from him.  If you are mechanically inclined to purchase the parts at discount internet prices and install them yourself, you can reduce the investment to near 1/3 the shop price.  Then once done, go get that alignment and you'll be set for good.

The handling of our PC resembles a mini-van or simple SUV.  It's no BMW, but it's no typical motor home either.  I would expect that the shorter the motor home, the more effective the improvements will be, due in-part from the short wheel base (distance between front and rear tires)  and long rear over-hang (rear of the rear tires).  The poor ratio between those two dimensions is quite influential.  But even model 3100 will benefit.

Gail, have you tried THIS experiment?
40  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Poor Handling on our 2013 2100 on: May 18, 2015, 01:02:46 am
I agree that a good first step would be an alignment with your added weight included, the same as when on a trip with a full tank of fuel, a full tank of fresh water, a full tank of propane, gear, clothes, & food supplies properly stowed in their usual place,.  It doesn't hurt to add some weight just behind the driver and passenger seat to represent you and your spouse in those seats while driving  All this because weight and weight distribution influences the alignment.

But I do want to say....

If your goal is to spend as little as possible to get your rig "Acceptable", then do each upgrade incrementally.  But the risk of doing so is that you'll get to a point and think you are good when in fact you are only good enough for most circumstances.  It is under a rare condition when "good enough" is going to let you down and you could find yourself in a very dangerous, even life theatening situation.  For example.

One trip we were heading out the east exit from Yosemite National Park.  There is a long steep down-grade in double digit miles, down a winding canyon road.  To avoid over-heating of our brakes, I would have the transmission in low gear and hit the brakes primarily when approaching a curve in the road.  In one instance, I misjudged how fast we approached the curve.  I ended up braking extremely hard while in the turn.  The guard rail was just inches away with a steep drop on the other side of it.  My wife was screaming for her life while the cabinet doors flown open with pots & pans & boxed food all air bourn.  I attribute being alive because of all the suspension upgrades.  Those upgrades kept our rig much more upright instead of leaning.  The weight was better maintained, better distributed so all 6 tires were able stay more firmly on the road for better control through the turn along with better brake performance.

Then there are the daily subtle benefits that you'll appreciate.

If I were to buy "any" brand new 2015 PC, regardless of model, I would immediately upgrade the front & rear stabilizer bars, front steering stabilizer, and shock absorbers.  If I were planning on towing of which we do, I would also install a rear trac bar.

I learned so much from our first motor home.  We owned that rig for 24 years.  The first 12 were cursed.  I wished we did everything at first opportunity instead of 12 years in.  Our first weekend get-away with our new PC at the time, had me afterward setting up an appointment with the shop that took care of our first rig.  I was NOT going to mess around the second time.  Do it once, do it right, and enjoy the rest in peace, comfort, and safety.

BTW, our alignment was done as part of the "package", done after all else was done.  I had our rig weight-simulated as if n a trip.  Our alignment was off by so much that the shop had to use offset bushings to get it right.  The shop said that most class B+/Cs and E-series ambulances require offset bushings.  The rigs are all so badly loaded and weight distribution so poor, that these kind of bushings are required.
41  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Where to hang bathroom towel rack and toilet paper on the 2100? on: May 14, 2015, 03:03:19 pm
Ron turn off the hip hop music and stop dancing around in there.

I am 6 foot and 235 lbs and never had your problems, but then I don't dance around in there. I agree the shower in the 2350 is larger and better than the 2552.
No More Ballroom Dancing In The Shower???  Has that been my problem???  Even though it is hard to get into frame, I don't know if I can live without that.  I think I will just stand firm.  It's just that those stick-on things are so hard on my feet.  Smile

I am surprised the rear corner shower in the 2551 and 2552 are more restrictive than the one in our 2350.
42  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Where to hang bathroom towel rack and toilet paper on the 2100? on: May 14, 2015, 11:11:01 am
Sue, the shower caddie we had is similar to the one you show.  Somehow I always had the contents crashing on the floor.

People do tell me that I have long arms.  Maybe that is why my elbows find everything.
43  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Check TV Screws on: May 14, 2015, 10:59:49 am
An annual 30 minute inspection with a square tip driver is a good idea for all rigs, new and used.  What is tight one year can get loose another.

We learned that our microwave oven frame screws had come loose.  There was some serious rattling going on back there two years ago of which I was able to identify only with my wife driving and me listening around.  They looked tight but were very loose.  I tightened them and all has been good since.

Don't over-tighten those square-tip wood screws for they will strip.  Then you have more work.

Then there are the entry door screws.....their own issue I outlined HERE some years ago.

Also the B+ front cap had some bad creaking I was able to resolve via the phone doctor Kermit.  That involved adding screws.
44  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Screening on: May 14, 2015, 10:49:05 am
"Code" reasons?  I wonder if the code was revised since 2007, not allowing an emergency window to open any other way.

Talk about "Code", the government should address stabilizer bars, shocks, and steering stabilizers, all should be heavy duty versions for every motor home chassis.  That would be a code of real value for driving safety.
45  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Where to hang bathroom towel rack and toilet paper on the 2100? on: May 14, 2015, 08:44:34 am
Our 2350 shower is confining for me, much more so than for my shorter wife.  As a result, I am always disagreeing over her ideas of sticking things on the shower walls for I keep bumping them with my arms, usually to the point that they end up crashing to the floor.  She has had shampoo caddies of various configurations, a plastic mirror, and yes, even a pair of nice towel hooks.  One caddy hooked on to the shower head.  That one stayed up but all it's contents ended up on the shower pan during one of my showers.  I placed that caddie outside where she can see it, before every shower I took thereafter.  That dang thing stays home now, in a has-been box with many other shower item attempts.  I keep it all together as a reminder for her.

Also, given I am the second person to take a shower, I am the one who cleans up.  My wife had a clean-up squeegee hung up in there that I fought for an entire trip.  She insisted it would make clean-up easier.  She just didn't get it that a squeegee can't be used effectively around obstacles.  I wipe down the shower with a wash cloth.  Obstacles make clean-up difficult.  

I am so glad I refuse to drill a hole in the shower wall for I'd be ripping the screws out with some of my elbow jabs.  We will see what this season presents.  Last I looked, we have only a stick-on soap dish of which I am fine with.  It is a constant battle.  I keep trying to get her to simply bring in what she needs and take it out when done, bar of soap excluded.

We hang our wet towels over the shower door bar until dry.

We are so happy to have a real workable bathroom and shower, but we can't equip it like we have at home.  There simply is not enough room for that.  You 2551/2552 big corner shower owners probably can't relate to my dilemma.
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