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46  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: April 21, 2015, 02:49:41 pm
Looking at your plumbing, I wonder if long braided stainless hoses would be more effective at reducing the noise.  Since you have so much plumbing already, two coiled braided stainless hoses would feel right at home.  I would use the ones sold for laundry machine hook-up, but shorter than pictured.
47  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 21, 2015, 10:19:33 am
Where I volunteer as an auto mechanic, I deal with o-rings on tire sensors.  They do "pancake", permanently deformed in a compressed state.  I wished we had a good stash of o-rings as I feel they should be replaced every time the sensor is disturbed.  The problem becomes serious when salt damage lifts the clear coat or paint around the valve stem hole.  The area then needs to be stripped flat down to bare metal and the o-ring replaced for it's most likely got deformed from the swelling of corrosion.

Though I don't usually see steel valve stems. I would imagine they have similar concerns.  Then adding the matter of the tire pressures on our PCs being twice that of a typical car.
48  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: April 20, 2015, 10:22:08 pm
In our 2007 2350, I installed a 2 gallon pressure tank.  I used a standard house-hold braided stainless steel water line (similar to the kind used for a faucet) for the connection between the high pressure side of the water pump and the pressure tank.  The pump noise changed from a loud groan to a quiet hum because the vibration of the pump could not transfer to the RV plumbing.

Here is a picture of my primitive installation.  I am not proud of it, but it does work extremely well.  Unfortunately you don't see the braided stainless steel line between pump and tank for it is behind them.

Now that I know better, I would have installed THIS ONE for $105 plus cost of shipping, and cleanly mount the pump on top to gain a little more outdoor storage compartment space.

49  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 18, 2015, 10:58:33 am
Interesting!  It seems effective and useful at an RV camp site with hook-ups.

For us it wouldn't get much use because we near exclusively use dump stations where speed is important because of others waiting.  The Sanicon is very clean to handle, quick to setup, a very friendly means at dump stations, assuming I am not flushing the tanks.
50  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 18, 2015, 10:19:44 am
Paul, I think you have a very good plan, adjusting along the way.
51  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 04:40:29 pm
You are very welcome Bob, Carol, and Mike.
52  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 10:40:13 am
Never, in my wildest dreams--well, maybe only there--could I attempt to do something like that.
Carol, read through my added Tips & Tricks at the bottom of my initial post.  If you can use these tools with any degree of control, you can modify the new pump and then hand it to any handyman for the installation.  You only need to make sure your old pump looks like my old pump.

Use this to cut off the long inlet tube.

Use this afterward to make smooth clean edges

Use this to drill the hole at the end of the motor

Use one of these to seal the hole you just drillled

It's that easy.
53  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 07:43:57 am
You mentioned you might use the stand that came with the Seaflow to mount the pump rather than the original strap.  I'd be interested in know how it turns out if you do.  That has been on my to-do list for a while (reducing the macerator noise).
Hi Mike, I added the Tips and Tricks comments.  Read through that.  I don't recommend using the stand.

I too would like to reduce macerator pump noise of which a new pump all by itself will help a lot.  I am planning on mounting and running the pump temporarily without the motor attached to the rig and see what is learned.  Then install a good strap and include a large soft rubber pad in between pump & strap and then compare.  I suspect the majority of macerator pump noise is transmitted through the waste plumbing and not the mounting strap, but maybe I will be surprised.

I will report my findings.
54  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 17, 2015, 12:42:27 am
Our 8 year old Sanicon macerator pump failed due to a broken bolt getting lodged inside which damaged the grinder and also broke off a couple of internal black plastic impeller blades.
Notice one of the 4 bolts is missing.  It is placed on the side.

I priced a new Sanicon pump.  Phoenix and Thetford sell them for around $450.  I did find someone else selling one for $379.

On Ebay, a number of sellers offer a Seaflo pump that is a very close copy to my Sanicon.  They cost around $58 including shipping.
Don't get confused as I was at first.  The pictures on Ebay here shows the Seaflo pipe flanges with large lips that appear as stubby stops.  Those are just protective rubber shipping caps.

With the protective shipping caps removed, the pump looks like this.

I bought a Seaflo pump for $58 and it arrived just 3 days later.  Here are my old Sanicon and new Seaflo pumps side by side for comparison.

I disassembled both pumps to find the inlet components to be an identical match.  Since my old inlet was still in perfect condition, I reused it.

If you determine that your original Sanicon inlet component is damaged, you can easily saw the extra plastic off the new one to create a very close working copy.

For the curious, here are the two grinders.  The new Seaflow blades resemble a kitchen blender.  One of the four Sanicon blades is folded over, bent from grinding the broken bolt.  Both types are very strong, bendable only with good plyers.  The Seaflow blades have a sharp edge on them for effective grinding.  The Sanicon blades might have been sharp some time ago, but are surely dull 8 years later.

The new Seaflo pump did not have a screwdriver feature as did the Sanicon for freeing up a jammed pump, but upon opening it, it did have a slot in the end of the motor shaft so I drilled a 3/8" hole in the end cap to access the slot, just like the original Sanicon.

Limited water will get inside through the screwdriver hole in both pumps, so a weep hole in the bottom of the motor case becomes critical.  The two holes from the screws of the new pump stand make a great pair of weep holes.

I intentionally drilled the screwdriver hole in my new pump smaller to reduce water potential and offer a nice surface for a stick-on pad to seal the opening.

Not Shown: When done, I capped the hole with a nice stick-on-pad to protect the inside of the motor.

Water did get inside and damage my old Sanicon bearings.  They spin as noisy as old roller skates.

I assembled the Sanicon inlet component to the Seaflow pump for a perfect replacement at a fraction of the cost.
To further demonstrate component-compatibility, I assembled the leftover parts on the original Sanicon pump.

The Seaflo pump came with a mounting stand but I determined it best NOT to use it.  The holes from the stand screws make great weep holes.


Now for the Tips & Tricks.

I had to disassemble everything to determine compatibility and such.  But that is now learned.  I recommend you DO NOT disassemble anything at all with the new pump.  Simply cut off the inlet nozzle to resemble the Sanicon, and drill the hole on the opposite end for the screw driver.  Use common sense and care when drilling and cutting.  The most important thing to watch out for would be plastic debris getting inside the pump.  While cutting and drilling, I advise to setup yourself with a vacuum cleaner over the inlet and in the work area around the screw driver hole.  Once done, continue vacuuming anything that might have fallen inside.

I suggest this because it is tricky to reassemble an opened pump.  The 3 sections (motor, pump, and grinder), plates and gaskets all need to be in perfect alignment when assembling.  Just behind the grinder plate, there is an odd shaped plate that must "seat" exactly proper inside a slight indent.  That is very easy to miss.  To avoid all that inconvenience and detail, I advise DO NOT loosen any bolts.  Just cut-vacuum, drill-vacuum, and be done.  Very simple, very fast, risk-free, completed in just 10 minutes.

I initially thought I would use the stand to mount the pump, but it would require reassembling the pump with the motor case 180 degrees, and then I would need to drill a weep hole.  With the stand off, the two mounting screw holes become weep holes face down.  Taking the pump apart again was a deterrent.

One final suggestion.  The pump bolts require a 5/16" thin wall socket.  I suggest you make sure the bolts are tightened up.  When loosening mine during disassembly, they were almost loose.

Closing point:  My original Sanicon is 8 years old.  That company was bought by Thetford around 4 years ago.  It is conceivable the pump in recent years could be different than the pump made by the original company.  Before buying a new pump, I advise to first remove your original pump to see if it looks like my old pump.
55  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 16, 2015, 07:06:59 pm
Technically, not enough to matter.  Basically the same benefits as a car, alloy wheels versus steel with wheel covers.

In order of importance to me.
 - A Nicer More Quality Apperance (especially considering my full body paint job)
- Reduced Unsprung Weight (takes bumps & holes better, and improves handling)
- Better Balance & True-Spin (reduced vibration)

If you look close at 18 wheelers, all cross country rigs have alloy wheels on the front for steering & handling, and most have them on the rest of the tractor.  Trailer wheels are steel unless owned by the trucker.

I really don't feel a PC will benefit much.  I just like the idea of having alloy wheels like my other vehicles have.
56  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 16, 2015, 10:24:07 am
Tom, The sticker PC-USA placed on my rig states 65f/60r, I assume because of the weight ratio verses quantity of tires.  So I maintain that relationship.
57  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems on: April 16, 2015, 08:20:57 am
Our 2007 E350  tires are original and still undisturbed, last touched by the factory when built.  The original SS-braided extenders still don't leak but I know if I touch anything, I'll have to get rid of them.

When it's time for new tires, I am considering buying new Alcoa wheels and go with their recommended valve extenders.  Alcoa Wheels, Hubs & Lugs are $1,060 plus $86 shipping to me, at Southwest Wheel HERE.  Remember this is for four wheels, not six.  The part numbers are different because the fronts are polished on the outside, and the rears are polished on the inside.  Don't consider 6 wheels because the lug stems in the rear hubs will then be too short to accommodate the extra thickness of two alloys.

It seems the best time to buy Alcoa wheels is when buying new tires.  I would reclaim some of the cost through the sale of the four original steel rims with tires, wheel covers and lugs.
58  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 2350 Tire Pressure on: April 16, 2015, 08:15:48 am
Our 2007 2350 E350 (NO slide), I set tire pressure to 65-70 in front and 60-65 in rear.  Visually the tires look a little under-pressured.  As an experiment, I once pumped the tires to max which then they looked right but the ride was horribly rough.  A trip taken a few years ago when we did not tow our Jeep Liberty, I added 5 psi in all tires to 75f/70r to improve fuel economy.  The ride was a compromise.  The trip average fuel economy was near 11 mpg.  I concluded I should have let some air out of the tires to enjoy the ride better and forget about fuel economy.  I am surprised how 5psi can change the ride significantly.
59  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jacks on: April 14, 2015, 04:57:10 pm
Off topic a bit but........due to recent personal experience i must inform you that your new washer and dryer, in all probability, will not provide a 36 year service life ! shrug
Happy Motoring
Yes, I surely believe you.  Other than vehicles, it seems these days, appliances, furnaces, hot water heaters, etc, are intentionally NOT made to last.  I hear hot water heaters are some of the worst.
60  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Jacks on: April 14, 2015, 12:31:43 pm
We married young in 1978, tent camped until 1983 when we bought our first motor home, had that until 2007 when we bought our PC.

In everything for the long haul.  We retired our washer and dryer just last month, bought them in 1979.  We raised a family in there somewhere so they were worked hard too.  We keep things well beyond typical.  We are terrible consumers, bad for the economy. Smile
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