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46  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Battery switch on dash on: January 23, 2015, 05:32:51 pm
If you are patient enough, on many of these types of switches, you can disassemble it and remove the spring that prevents it from springing to the "Off" position.  Those tiny jeweler's screwdrivers work well for the project.  Admittedly I have not tried it on our PC.

BTW, our 2007 has the spring-loaded temporary-on switch so PC-USA has been installed then for many years.  Because I carry long jumper cables, I have never used that switch.

I have a related story.

About 3 years ago, my uncle passed away.  He lived a day's ride away so we thought it would be better to drive our PC so I woke it up in a hurry from a long winter's nap.  The chassis battery was dead so I jumped it and off we went, thinking it would charge as we drive on the highway for many hours.  As a precaution I carried my 40amp battery charger and long jumper cables.  Wouldn't you know, the chassis battery would not hold a charge.  Every time I needed to start the engine, I used the long jumper cables to the pair of house batteries in back.  The next day on our way home, our last stop in a rest area, even the jumper cables wasn't enough to turn over the engine.  That last jump required the jumper cables to the rear batteries and the 40 amp battery charger (running off the generator).  The engine then had enough juice to turn over and start.  Needless to say, buying a new chassis battery was the next thing done once back home.  I bought a real nice sealed battery from Sears and it serves us well today.....I hope.  It has been in heated storage since October, all batteries disconnected.
47  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: January 22, 2015, 02:02:19 pm
Hello from John and Carol in the Sierra foothills. We are retired and have been RVing for 10 years. We will take possession of a 2014 PC 2552 in Feburary. Our favorite places to camp are the coast and the forest so we are having the factory install a solar panel so we can dry camp for extended periods without using the generator. Sometime in the future are planning to take the PC to Alaska.
Welcome John and Carol to the PC forum, and soon to the family.  When you have questions about your rig (and you will), you know where to ask.  Your fellow forum members are here to serve up the answers the best we can.  Smile
48  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 21, 2015, 07:42:43 pm
I have comfort knowing that even with my 2007 2350, the factory is there to help with something gone wrong.  Of coarse I'll have to pay their current (& affordable) labor rates, but who else other than Phoenix is most qualified to tear into something that I can't handle myself?
49  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 21, 2015, 06:45:25 pm
You call the factory. They send you to an independant local RV repair center, and the factory pays for it.
50  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 21, 2015, 01:49:06 pm
Like Holly, I too wonder about that.

Glad to hear your pain and suffering with the leak is resolved.  That did not sound like fun to me either.

About your flexible drain hose idea, when reconfiguring our kitchen base cabinet drawers, I replaced the solid black drain plumbing with a different type of flex line as pictured on my project post HERE.

Like you say, it is a very good working solution when the black plastic is giving trouble of one kind or another.

Here is my flex material.  I considered it perfect for the application with extremely good leak-proof-reliable qualities.

Here it is installed for the kitchen sink drain.
51  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 12, 2015, 10:44:27 pm
Wow, that is a very extensive project.

I do wonder if you could cut a "Clean & Restorable" access hole from underneath.  Kermit might be able to assist on where to cut the hole.  You will have to cut through 1/4" fluted plastic under-belly, 2" Styrofoam block, and 3/4" plywood.  You will need an extremely strong magnet (from an old computer hard drive) to detect if there is a steel beam in the area.  The strong magnet would need to detect metal through just the 1/4" underbelly material.

This is the sandwich you would need to cut through and re-plug after the repair is completed.  If you cut the hole clean and perfectly square, the factory may be able to supply you with the sandwich plug.

I am only tossing out ideas here, not hard core advise.
52  Main Forum / Around the Campfire / Re: Interstate signs on: January 12, 2015, 05:39:30 pm
53  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Electrical question on: January 12, 2015, 05:29:59 pm
It is fine to plug into a 110V source to power up the interior 12V lighting without batteries present.  With the inverter running, you must insulate the red/+ terminal (s) well.  It is good practice to let them hang down below the rig.  Even better in the outdoors is to disconnect the red wire(s) from the fuse in the back of the battery compartment.  Then you are assured you are safe.

Here is the back of my battery compartment with fuses in-view.  I have just one hot/red/+ wire, the one coming toward the camera.  Disconnect it at the fuse block and it would be most safe.
54  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Another Crazy idea from CrazyG.. on: January 12, 2015, 12:54:05 pm
I am the fellow who's wife loves to cook with a large griddle that melts the knobs HERE.

We like our gas stove except for this condition.  My wife and I have been discussing a permanently mounted home-made heat shield to protect the knobs.  One thing certain, my wife won't give up her large square griddle.

I have a lot of such small projects to work on during the "off" season, from this heat shield, to LED lighting adjustments, to converting from two 12V to two 6V house batteries.  But first I need to finish my brick & mortar house kitchen facelift HERE.
55  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Batteries are not charging while plugged into 110? on: January 12, 2015, 12:38:24 pm
You might also now have bad batteries being in the cold and drained to dead multiple times.  Ask Kermit about also replacing them under warranty.
56  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Help! Leak in the bathroom on: January 12, 2015, 12:35:40 pm
If the leak is right at the pan/drain area, you should be able to seal it from inside the shower.  Removing the screen on the shower pan may loosen the connection there.  If so, that is great!  A little silicone caulk and reconnect is a very easy repair. 

It is possible something became loose or even broke from the underside.  Have you looked up from below?  I wonder if you can access the connection from the street.

I don't own a 2551 or 2552 so I am not the best person to reply.  Consider my input "very generic".
57  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Interior light covers on: January 12, 2015, 11:03:18 am
For the florescent fixtures in my 2007, I have to first remove the two exposed end screws, then unsnap the cover.  There are two additional screws holding the main assembly to cabinet or ceiling.  They are accessed with the cover removed.  So there are 4 screws in-all attaching the fixture to the ceiling or cabinet.
58  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Ford 350 vs 450 on: December 30, 2014, 05:17:57 pm
Hi Judi,

Phoenix changed from the E350 to the E450 on model 2551 around 2007 because the E350 was getting close to the maximum allowable load.  I cannot say that it is a bad idea to buy an older 2551 on the E350 chassis.  It is simply less desirable.  If I were you, I would call the factory and ask to talk with Kermit.  He made the decision to switch from the E350 to E450 on that particular model.  He would have the best advise for you.

The general consensus is that the E450 is preferred, but an E350 is not all bad news because it will yield about a 10% increase in fuel economy along with a softer ride.

Buying the rig used, there is one primary thing you will want to know about.  That is whether an aftermarket heavy duty rear stabilizer bar was installed.  If not, I would not consider it a deal breaker, but rather negotiate $400 less to get that component added after you purchase the rig.  Actually I would advise to add more than that rear stabilizer bar to further improve handling.  I'd replace the front stabilizer bar with a heavy duty one along with better shock absorbers and steering stabilizer.   Hopefully the rig you are considering has much or all of that already done for you.
59  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: I heard from Billy on: December 29, 2014, 05:08:36 pm
I too missed Billy wondering if he is okay.  Thank you for the update on him and his change in RV.
60  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Levelers being balky on: December 23, 2014, 12:17:36 pm
Yes they make sense.
My name is Tom, not Ron. Ron lives near Chicago, while I live in central Maryland. ThumbsUp
Tom, ragoodsp's name is Ron.  He was signing his post "Ron".   rolling on the floor
I feel better knowing that I am not the only one who gets spun around with real names & screen names and all that.  Thanks Tom.  Smile
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