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46  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Slightly stretched 2400 on: June 01, 2015, 01:21:31 pm
You will find that sitting on a mattress is going to be very uncomfortable compared to leather covered memory foam dinette base cushion material.  You will be fighting it with every move you make.   Our dinette initially had cloth-covered standard foam which would be better than sitting on a regular mattress.  That had issues we resolved by replacing the cushions with leather covered memory foam cushions.  Laying on our dinette setup as a bed is quite comfortable for me who appreciates a tight firm mattress.  But if you love a soft cradling mattress, then the mem-foam will be an issue.

I suppose you could always order it later, but then it gets complicated and expensive.  Your best deal will be right now before you take delivery.
47  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Air not working on: June 01, 2015, 12:30:36 pm
Call the factory and you will get the right answer.
48  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Scenic Highway 12 - Utah on: June 01, 2015, 09:28:48 am
There are so many beautiful roads in our country.  It is this type of road that I really enjoy our suspension upgrades so I can enjoy the scenery rather than concentrate on the double yellow line.

Thank You for sharing!
49  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Slightly stretched 2400 on: May 31, 2015, 01:53:35 pm

I wonder if you could order one of the beds with a special thinner memory foam mattress, the same used in dinette seats base cushions, and have special backrest & side cushions to make it a couch/day-bed.  This way you have a nice place to sit and relax during the day with a huge ottoman across.  When it's bed time, simply toss those cushions up front.

Just a thought for a low cost option.
50  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Rear view monitor position on: May 29, 2015, 12:51:58 pm
The only issue I have is when I get the monitor just right the next time I get up to go to the back of the coach it never fails I "whack" my head very hard on the screen!  That is life!
Oh Yes!  That was my problem which was my primary reason to move the monitor to the mirror position.  No more head whacks since.  The change works out real well.  Also, in the original position I could not pivot the screen to the driver adequately.  I still can't get it exactly perpendicular, but so much better than before.  I also have a less obstructed view out the windshield because the 5" monitor is smaller than the original mirror.

In this picture, you can see where the monitor was originally mounted into the headliner.  Note the hole and flattened material.  I'd like to make a shallow sunglasses tray up there but have yet to get to it using some old kitchen cabinet drawer material left from my reconfiguration project HERE.  I need to be sure I don't hit my head on that either.  I was even thinking of exploring a junk yard to find a headliner sunglasses tray from another vehicle.
51  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: CLEARANCE LIGHTS REAR on: May 29, 2015, 12:39:55 pm
Given that Sparky stated "Red" marker lights with black round rings, the only ones I have on our 2350 are recessed into the rear wall.  The only way the fixtures/lenses could break is if they get pierced by something while backing up.  I also wonder if he is describing his low rear tail lights.  Hopefully Sparky will reply to clarify exactly which lights have stopped working.  Whether high up or down low, the lights are LEDs that don't burn out.  It sounds like a wiring problem to the lights.  Maybe water got inside them and they failed internally which can be easily tested.
52  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: TOWING WITH OUR SPRINTER 2350 on: May 27, 2015, 02:57:42 pm
The only time I would not tow our Liberty is a trip like Alaska where I think we would be on the move most of the time, where a base camp wouldn't see much use.  Alaska is a place where you spend the night wherever you happen to be at the time.  Move on after you are done with sleep & breakfast.
53  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: CLEARANCE LIGHTS REAR on: May 27, 2015, 11:06:38 am
If the lights them self are faulty, I am sure the factory would be happy to sell you what you need at a reasonable price.  But Sparky mentioned that more than one light went dead, that makes the wiring suspicious, not the LED light fixtures.

Other than looking below, I would also consider dismounting all 5 lights and see if you can inspect the wiring in between them.  They could share common switched power and ground wires.  You can't rule out the possibility that the mounting screws for the ladder and back-up camera have damaged the wires.
54  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: CLEARANCE LIGHTS REAR on: May 26, 2015, 12:34:53 pm
I think Sparky has rear LED marker lights so there are no bulbs to burn out.  Am I right in saying we all have rear LED marker lights?  Or are only the tail lights inside the rear bumper LED?

If LED, new fixtures could yield the same results.  I would check the voltage at each light.  If something isn't right with power, look under the rig, check the wiring there.  It could be a corroded connection there.  Look around there for crimped connectors, gently shake them while someone watches the lights up top for intermittent-on.  You may need to trim the wires and re-crimp.  Better yet is to solder and shrink tube them.  If crimping, seal the crimp connection with silicone grease.
55  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sway Bars on: May 26, 2015, 12:24:51 pm
If installing both a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar and a rear trac bar yourself, you might run into a mounting issue.

The shop that installed our rear Roadmaster bar and rear Henderson trac bar back in 2007 on our 2007 E350, had a unique challenge, I recall it was something involving "shared mounting points".  My point here is that you might run into a situation where the stock hardware may not work as designed.  Plan for some time on the phone with one or the other companies on how to address it.

Again, that was 8 years ago on our 2007 E350.  Maybe the chassis today, or the parts designed for them are different.  I share this not to discourage getting both, but rather to prepare you for a potential hick-up.
56  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 23, 2015, 04:45:12 pm
Very interesting Paul.  I am glad you took the time to examine your particular situation, and made some repairs & improvements.  It sounds like you did real good.

You have me wondering if you could change your heat register to something rectangular, maybe 2" x 10", or would it be 3"x10".  Inside the wall have a ductwork adaptor to change from the 2 or 3" round to the rectangle opening.  This way the air could get around the commode much easier.  Maybe your adaptor-duct could have an insert to divert the air to the ends.

In my mind I am imagining something along the lines of a 2" diameter shop vac floor thingy like this, only made of sheet metal to your exact requirements.  You might be able to find what you need in a heating & a/c contractor's store, or even a home improvement store.
57  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Wild Ponies Of Assateague Island Assateague State Park, Maryland on: May 21, 2015, 10:14:29 am
Very nice Bill.  Thanks for sharing.  Cheer
58  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 19, 2015, 12:14:43 pm
Interesting information Tom.  I had thought the furnace exhausted via 3 standard size ducts.  My rig is now 8 years old so maybe that was the case back then, different lately.  Then again, maybe I have 3 & 1 like you describe.
59  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Bathroom heater vent in 2350 on: May 18, 2015, 11:32:44 pm
The other issue is volume.  What I really need to do is increase the hose coming to the register (and of course put in a matching register to the new hose) since it is considerably smaller than the hoses going to the rest of them.  I do not recall the diameter, but air volume wise, ole PieRSquared really gets you with a hose even an inch smaller in diameter.  Paul

So your bathroom duct and heat register are smaller than the others?

It sounds like that is your problem.  Somehow you need to get the standard insulated hose (the kind that resembled a dryer slinky vent) to a standard round heat register.  I wonder if you could use the common expandable aluminum non-insulated dryer vent material as the duct.  Just make it oval where space gets tight and left round otherwise.  Because it would not be insulated, you will get some initial heat loss, but it will be in your insulated outdoor storage compartment, maybe nice to get some heat in there anyway since that is where the fresh water tank is.  Well, maybe it's already warm in there given your furnace is in there.

Our outdoor storage compartment is insulated, but no furnace heat is pumped through it.  It is sealed off from the house with very little convection action given the foam mattress is a good insulator.  I suppose hard core winter camping with tank water might present a problem for us.  But then again, I can't see us camping in repeated single digit conditions.
60  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Water pump flexible hose on 2552 on: May 18, 2015, 11:40:10 am
Last week I installed flexible hose on both sides of the pump. I used 30" hose and made a loop in both sections as was recommended on one of the posts I read. It was a fun project and I was pleasantly surprised how much of a difference it made.

Great idea.......thanks for the suggestion.

So glad it worked out for you.
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