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61  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: June 22, 2015, 10:50:06 am
When reinforcing one door, is there a benefit to installing the other piece up top to reinforce it as well?  Or is it a throw-away/give-away/sell-on-ebay component?
62  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: June 22, 2015, 10:06:26 am
Question for Barry-Sue.  They are mirror image parts so I assume you use both parts on the same fridge door.  If I want to reinforce the freezer door as well, I would then need two kits....right?
63  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Dinette or Couch Seat Belts on: June 22, 2015, 07:51:56 am
Our 2007 dinette seat belts seem to be a little shorter than a car would typically have, yet we are able to use them.  The factory might be able to send you seat belt extensions.  They would have the buckle on one end and the receiving metal clip on the other.
64  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: June 21, 2015, 09:53:42 pm
I just examined our hinges and all four look fine.  But reading about the fridge hinge problem here and also on other RV forums, I decided to be proactive rather than regretfully reactive.  Thanks all for the great information and clarity about it.
65  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: June 20, 2015, 11:09:20 pm
What I am about to describe is difficult.

I wonder if some of the problem with broken fridge hinges is related to where a free-swinging door makes contact to other things.  Does the end of the door hit something like a wall for example, or is contact made close to the hinges which increases abnormal stress by many magnitudes.  If this is the cause for broken hinges, I wonder if a door limiter could be installed.

Our 2007 2350 fridge and freezer doors both hit other things when fully open, but contact is made on the outer-most surface of each door.  Eight years so far with lots of water and soda stored in the door and we have not broken a hinge.

Now watch one break on us this season because I said this.  Smile

66  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: excessive heat in the passenger area of chassis on: June 18, 2015, 09:45:54 am
I also hang out on a "general" RV forum which everyone there says the E350/E450 with V10 engine 1997-2015 all have the same hot-floor issue.  Our 2007 is no exception.

If you get on the ground and look up at the floor there, you will see that Ford does have heat shields in-place.

I have wondered if the heat is not only from the catalytic converter but also air blown rearward from up front, passing over the exhaust manifold, then hit the dog house, then under the floor.  Between the two heat sources, it becomes noticeably hot.

Unlike a box truck cut-away with rubber floor covering, the made-for-RV cut-away chassis does not have top-side floor insulation because the RV industry installs their own carpet and it must be glued directly to the steel floor to configure to the shape of the floor.  If you don't care about the carpet, consider ripping it out and install the stock Ford rubber (or carpet) floor covering for work truck applications which will have thick insulation behind it.  I would think it will be much more effective than the PC carpet.  I just called my local Ford dealer which gave me prices as follows for a 2007 E350 box truck cut-away chassis.
MSRP prices
$424 - gray or tan carpet (on back order, might be discontinued prior to 2009)
$482 - black rubber

An interesting experiment would be to drive an E350/E450 box truck with rubber (or carpet) flooring and see if the heat issue is a lot better.  I assume it would be, but maybe not so much.
67  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: replace light with led on: June 15, 2015, 10:28:30 am
Hi Paul,

I agree that LED lights can be quite bright.  I completely underestimated their light output.  When disabling 3 of 11 circuits per strip I had contemplated shutting down every-other one which would have been 5 circuits of the 11.  If I later change my mind, I will need to unsolder more resistors and re-solder a few of them into adjacent positions to maintain "balanced" lighting within.

My particular situation has 11 circuits of 3 LEDs each totalling 33 LEDs per strip x2 strips.  That is 66 LEDs per fixture which I recall using quality instruments at work, used 6 watts of power compared to the 9 watts measured for the original pair of florescent bulbs.  Reducing the LEDs by 1/3, I reduced the power down to 4 watts per fixture which is 44% that of the original florescent bulbs.

The night lights are really nice.  They consume only 1/2 watt so we leave a number of them on for mood lighting while we are awake in the evening after dark.  I personally like to turn on the night light when visiting the bathroom at night so I can see without getting blinded.

When building up each fixture, I set them so that flipping the switch away from us turns on the main light.  Flipping them towards us turns on the night light.  That makes it so easy to get it right the first time.  Since some fixtures have the switch to the right and others to the left, each fixture has one of two required orientations for the switch.  It took only a little extra time to accommodate for that but well worth the effort.

For the fixture over the dinette, I installed a potentiometer inside it to use as a dimmer to further adjust brightness at the table pending our taste at the time.  On that fixture with the night light on, I can dim it to a faint glow, just enough to see around in the dark, yet still be dark.

Ron
68  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: replace light with led on: June 15, 2015, 12:22:43 am
Hi campmuch,

With our 2007 2350, in an effort to keep the same fixtures to avoid scars about the rig, I affordably replaced only the florescent internals with LED strips.  Though it was quite a project for me, we really do like the results, and at such a low cost.  You can see many pictures and read about the project HERE.  We later determined the LED strips were just too bright so I have since disabled every 3rd circuit by removing their supporting chip resistors (easy to solder back) which also reduced power consumption even further.  In the process, I also added an LED night light inside each fixture which we both appreciate.

I also replaced the regular incandescent light bulbs with LED equivalents for the closet, shower, stove hood, and outside porch & storage compartment.  I estimate our lighting power consumption has been reduced at least 50% and the soft white LEDs provide a nice warm atmosphere.

I seek areas to improve on power consumption because we most often camp without hook-ups.  I wished our power-hog 26" front TV would die so I could replace it with a 26" LED edge-lit TV for that would be much easier on our batteries.  At the end of the day operating on battery power, we'll watch TV in the bedroom on our other TV/DVD combo for it uses much less power.

I also replaced our tired 12V batteries with a new pair of 6V AGM batteries in an attempt to improve power further.  I have not yet seriously considered solar panels, just trying to find alternatives with things already in-place for now.

Back to the LED conversion.  If you try what I did, you will need to be good with a soldering iron, and have some degree of patience.  The first fixture takes a long time.  The last one goes quickly.  

Well wishes with the solution that works best for you, converting or replacing your fixtures.

Ron
69  Main Forum / Photos / Re: Small tables for our 2552 on: June 08, 2015, 12:47:44 pm
It seems common practice for people with the 2350, 2351, 2551, and 2552 with the couch in the slide out to use something other than the table that comes standard with the rig.

Thanks for sharing.  Great information for those considering the couch-in-slide-out.
70  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Rear Air not working on: June 05, 2015, 10:48:07 pm
I do not think there is space for a 7000 watt unit where the 4kw is.  JIM JAS
I agree with you.  I think the narrow body and lowest possible floor of all PCs limits the size of the generator.
71  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Safety Recalls on: June 05, 2015, 04:40:41 pm
I couldn't understand what the airbag problem was.  I recently learned for my own curiosity that the explosive material inside would become more explosive with humidity.  The explosion becomes so strong that the airbag housing breaks apart, turning into a grenade of flying shrapnel.
72  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Problem on: June 05, 2015, 09:39:18 am
I am glad you got the slide-out pulled in fine.  I agree that it was most likely an unused screw left behind during the construction of the rig, as we all have had a few extra screws and such found in strange places.  I advise to make sure nothing else foreign is in the area that could cause damage.  I have heard of wood and metal shavings laying around from drilled holes, that debris getting into places that later cause damage.  Not necessarily on Phoenix Cruisers, but on motor home slide-outs in-general.

We don't have a slide-out.  Is there access to the space in between the slide-out and main floor & walls to inspect and clean?  That would be the ideal time to make sure everything is assembled properly, screws are properly tightened, and all that.  I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check/tighten screws every so many miles.  Our rig needed a good going through after around 25,000 miles.  Screws get loose from all the road vibrations.
73  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: June 04, 2015, 03:42:11 pm
If there is anyone in the Peoria area that would be willing to let us take at look at your motorhome we sure would appreciate it.  
Hi Randy and Charlene,

We are a far drive, 2.5 hours away from you in Dundee, IL and our PC is now 8 years old.  We are half way to the factory.  Though the differences are very minor from 2007 to today, I would assume you'd want to see a rig and maybe a particular model that is more current.  Our rig is a 2350 on the older Ford chassis as seen HERE.  You are welcome to come over and pick through it.  We could review the differences to a new 2015.  
74  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Simple rattle fix on: June 03, 2015, 03:52:22 pm
I've had a pile of rattles to fix over the years, most recently involving the cabinets in the B+ cap area.  Like many others, my list of fixes would be very long if I documented them.  They are so easy to fix.  What to fix is the challenge.  The most irritating one was the crank-up Winegard antenna on the roof that took so many years to figure out.

Interesting fix there Dick.
75  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Anyone Here Have The Undocumented Single Bed Option In The B+ Cab-Over Cap? on: June 03, 2015, 02:07:43 pm
Thanks Jim.

I got the same reply when asking the seller directly.  I think the seller does not have the rig near him.  I wanted to know dimensions without the mattress.  And he leaves out the depth.
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