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61  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Euro chair on: August 11, 2015, 01:57:25 pm
Am I correct in stating that regardless how the euro chair is mounted, it is never to be used when the vehicle is in-motion?
62  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis for Phoenix on: August 11, 2015, 11:08:34 am
Good feedback Gents.  The Ford Transit will not be a viable option for my application.  Lets face it the turning radius on the E-450 is horrible so  the F-550 would most likely  be even worse!  Guess I will just have to get myself into and M2 Freightliner!( my wife will never let that happen)
I keep reading that one day soon the E450 will no longer be made.  If it actually happens, that will dramatically impact the class B+/C motor home industry, for there is nothing as capable other than the F-series chassis you mention.  You just might get your wish.  Smile
63  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself! on: August 11, 2015, 11:01:27 am
Love the room of the PC vs. the class B, but hate the MPG of 10 MPG vs. 17 for the Pleasure Way.
Yes indeed, 10 mpg is about right for a PC-2350 on an E350 with V10 engine.  That is why the Sprinter is worth consideration for people who drive a lot, ideal following ball clubs, dog shows, etc. around the country.

Our 2007 PC-2350 E350-V10 is now 8 years old.  I drove it to work today towing our Jeep Liberty for a shake-down.  I looked at the odometer and was surprised to see it has less than 24,000 miles (I thought we drove it more).  So for us, the $16,500 current-day lower purchase price of the E350-V10 would be the better investment even though the fuel economy is 2/3 that of the Sprinter diesel.

With the lower price of gas lately, our refills on our upcoming trip will sting much less.  That will be refreshing.
64  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New chassis for Phoenix on: August 10, 2015, 04:36:30 pm
We owned a Toyota truck chassis motor home for 24 years.  Like Barry mentioned, there was a lot of lost length for the actual living space.  And it wasn't fun getting between cab and cabin.  I would naturally shy away from anything that resembles a pickup truck with a long hood.

I feel the Ford Transit cut-away diesel and gas would be an interesting replacement for the E350 & Sprinter for the shorter PCs.
65  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Reinforcing Your Norcold Fridge Door Hinges on: August 10, 2015, 11:08:04 am
The older Norcold fridge (maybe the newer ones too) have a design flaw in that the main fridge door lower hinge can break from rough-road driving along with extra weight people add into the door from drinks stored on the door shelves.  I decided to be proactive and so I bought reinforcement hinge hardware on Ebay, paying $49 for two sets with free delivery.  These kits are also sold elsewhere.  I think they are made by Norcold to address the problem.  I bought two sets to reinforce both the fridge and freezer door. 

Though the primary concern is the lower fridge door hinge, I decided to install both top & bottom on both doors since it all fit fine.  Who knows, maybe the top one will do some good on a bumpy road to Alaska one day.  The large thick washer that came with the kit fit very sloppy because the inside diameter "ID" was much too large to self-center.  It also stuck out far beyond the rest of the hinge, not a nice look at all.  I decided to replace it with two smaller and thinner stainless steel washers, placing one at each hinge (top & bottom) to assure there is no binding as was intended by Norcold, and also experienced when first using the original washer on only the lower hinge.  I will keep an eye on them to make sure they do the job as well as larger washers would.

The installation took all of about 20 minutes for both doors.  Now I can rest easy, not to worry about hinges breaking.  The reinforcements look nice.

Here is one reinforcement kit.  I am posting big pictures so you can see the detail better.
Notice how huge the original washers are.

Here you can see both top and bottom reinforcements and the thinner & smaller diameter stainless steel washers I used.

66  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Fridge door fell off on: August 09, 2015, 09:53:44 pm
Thank you so much Jim for your generosity but I just bought a pair of kits on Ebay for $49 to reinforce both doors.  I'll just sell what I don't use on ebay to recover some of the cost to keep my investment under control as usual.
Getting ready for our big trip, I'm going through my 2350 to-do list.

I finally installed the fridge door reinforcements, deciding to install both top & bottom since both fit fine.  Who knows, maybe the top one will do some good.  The large thick washer that came with the kit fit very sloppy with the inside diameter way too large for a nice centered fit.  It also stuck our far beyond the rest of the hinge, not a nice look at all.  I decided to replace it with two smaller and thinner conforming stainless steel washers, placing one at each hinge to assure there is no binding as was intended by Norcold.  I will keep an eye on them to make sure they do the job well.  If not, I will replace them with larger, but still thinner ones. It is done easily enough.

The installation took all of about 20 minutes for both doors.  Now I'll rest easy, not worrying about them any longer.  The reinforcements look nice and I understand now how they offer reinforcement, though I am not sure "how much".  I wonder why Norcold is not installing the reinforcements on all fridges sold.  Maybe the latest models have them or something equivalent better integrated.

For those who wonder what the reinforcements are, here is what they look like, big pictures to see the detail better.
Notice how huge the original washers are?

Here you can see both top and bottom reinforcements and the thinner & smaller diameter stainless steel washers.

I will be putting this into the Tips & Tricks area.
67  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Converting Interior Lighting To Low Power Warm LED Lighting, Very Affordable on: August 07, 2015, 02:18:21 pm
This post replaces an old long winded technical post that grew and grew in the general forum.

We own a 2007 2350 which was equipped with nine florescent light fixtures.   We never appreciated the look of florescent lighting, and they often emit a vibrating light.  I wanted to convert the fixtures to warm emitting LED technology to improve the atmosphere and reduce power.  Converting versus replacing was primarily chosen to control cost and to avoid imprints on the ceiling fabric and have old mounting holes visible from mounting different style fixtures.

The project is complete with results as follows.
- total investment to convert all nine fixtures was around $32 (~$3.50 per fixture)
- the original florescent fixtures used 9 watts of power, now converted to warm LED using less than half at 4.33 watts.
- added an LED night light into each of the 9 fixtures
- if not adding a night light, you can do this 9 fixture project quick and easy for only $12 ($1.33 per fixture)

How It Was Accomplished...

I bought two 5 meter long reels of self-sticking LED strips on ebay HERE for around $12 per reel.  I used only a little from the 2nd reel needed for the night light circuits.
LEDs are grouped in 3's with a shared resistor to power them.  You can see the the individual 3 yellow LEDs & 1 black resistor circuits here.

I bought 20 (but needed only 9) 3-way switches HERE for around $9.  They snap into the same hole as the original white colored 2-way switches.  The 3-ways were needed to also control the night-light.

Here is one of the nine original florescent fixtures with all the florescent components removed.  De-soldering of the switch from the circuit board was required.

Here is an assembled fixture with LED strips installed.  I selected the angled surfaces for they had a flat surface to bond to, and they aim the light better.

Note the 3-way switch in the center/off position.  Also note the tiny 3-LED night light circuit on the side.
The adhesive backed strips slowly peeled off over time at the ends, so I added a dab of clear silicone caulk on the ends (not seen) as an adhesive.  The LED strips now stay in place.

Here is a fully lit LED fixture.  They turned out to be too bright, lighting up the interior of the rig so much that it was hard on the eyes.  The contrast at night was just too much.  This fully-lit unit used 6 watts of electricity.

To reduce the brightness and power consumption, I disabled every 3rd LED group by de-soldering their associated chip resistor.  This reduced light and power by 28%.  I did this on all fixtures throughout the interior except over the bed.  The results were very good with each fixture using 4.33 watts of power.

This fixture has every-other group of 3-LEDs deactivated which reduced power & light by 45%, now using only 3.33 watts of power.  I did this only on the two fixtures under the hanging cabinets over the bed.  Given the smaller area, they provide better lighting for reading and such.  It is also much nicer just laying in bed facing less light.

Here is the single circuit 1/3 watt night light.  It is more than a glow, but much less light than this picture illustrates.
If this picture was true to reality, I would have mounted only two circuits, one on each end for a 2/3 watt light fixture. Smile

Another LED conversion to reduce power was very simple by replacing standard bulbs with equivalent LED bulbs.  Unfortunately I don't remember the cost.  I do remember it wasn't cheap.  I bought 3-twin packs and replaced all my regular bulbs throughout the rig.

Here is our porch light with new LED.  Inside the fixture, I added reflective industrial aluminum to better reflect the light outward.
68  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak in bath area on: August 05, 2015, 10:52:39 am
Glad you got it resolved without much hassle or cost.  Something for the rest of us to keep in-mind if we consistently find water on the floor around the area of the toilet.

That guy Kermit....what a gem.
69  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leak in bath area on: August 05, 2015, 08:28:30 am
I know you ruled this out, but it is easy enough to make sure.

The hot and cold water connections to the bath faucet (and kitchen faucet too) are hand tightened.  Just reach up and make sure they are still tight.  They have wings on the plastic nuts to offer a good grip for hand tightening.  It takes only seconds to do.
70  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Bike Racks on: August 05, 2015, 12:27:32 am
If your hauling a few thousand dollars worth of bikes however you don't want to skimp on the rack that hauls them.
That is some serious bike hardware.  Are you sure it is wise to have multiple thousands of dollars in bicycles outside on a rack like that?  Between theft and the elements, I'd prefer to haul them safe and secure in a trailer or tow vehicle.  We took our bikes on a rack on one trip and everything steel on the bikes (as little steel as there was) got rusty, not to mention the general crud.  Next trip with our new bikes and they will be carefully stored inside the Jeep Liberty.
71  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Bike Racks on: July 31, 2015, 11:19:55 am
I see the benefits to that platform rack.  Just make sure to use a Quiet Hitch or equivalent or the bikes will sure thrash around a concerning amount.

My brother & wife have a platform similar (no bikes) which he found a zippered weather-proof storage bag designed to work with those types.  They are very happy to have that bag.  He had told me when they were taking ferry rides in the inside passage of Alaska, they would bring it all inside to reduce the RV's over-all length which saved them a lot of ferry money.
72  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: New Members Approved on: July 30, 2015, 10:20:00 pm
Aimee, I love that about you, going the extra 100 miles maintaining this forum so well.  It is easy  to invest my time in it because of that.

73  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Bike Racks on: July 30, 2015, 02:43:50 pm
I see a couple of things to watch out for when installing a bike rack on the back of any PC.

- You will likely need to add an extension bar like this to mount the rack a little farther away from the motor home.  This helps to clear the ladder, spare tire cover, and allows for the rear compartment to open farther.

- Install a "Quiet Hitch" or equivalent to remove any play between the hitch and extension bar

- Install something similar between the extension and bike rack interconnection.  PCs have a class 3 receiver.  Bike racks are most often class 1 so you would need a mini-Quiet Hitch there.

- An ideal bike rack like this would be one where you can pivot the bikes away from the rig to allow better access to the rear compartment.
74  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Light Fixture Fuse Location on: July 23, 2015, 02:27:07 pm
That is a funny story Bob.  How many times I thought something was broken with our PC only to learn it was operator error.  Smile

Our 2007 does not have such a switch by the entry door.  We have just two switches there, the kill-all and porch light.  It would be nice if we had that 3rd switch.  It must have been a better idea implemented since 2007.

Now that I have converted all our lighting to LED with separate LED night lights, I suppose I could just leave one night light on all day to help us get inside after dark without tripping over ourselves.
75  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Passenger rear view morror on: July 22, 2015, 06:15:32 pm
Here are two photos of the rear view mirrors on our 2014 PC2552 (built on a 2013 Ford chassis).  I would call them single arm.
I think we have the same mirrors on our 2007 2350 with only minor differences.

1) Our arms are a lot longer (as TomH states, shortened in later model years)
2) The glass mirrors on ours is single.  Yours are duel with different curvatures for better views to the rear.

So it's only the Sprinters that have duel arm mirrors.  That clears up my confusion.
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