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61  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Maserator system on: April 18, 2017, 03:24:23 pm
To freckstweety and PC family,

I found a very affordable replacement to the Sanicon pump as described in detail HERE.
Thank you ever so much for the detailed reply.  I will double check with PC and see what they say as well and double check to see the what macerator is presently installed.   Just want to get the right one.   Thanks again.
I checked my Flojet pump as I was de-winterizing the MH and when the pump was on, it leaked from under the pump and not at any of the fittings So I don't know where the problems is as it is coming from under the metal brace that holds the pump.   Where and what part is that?Does that mean the pump is bad?
It is very possible that the 4 bolts that hold the pump assembly together have become loose and they simply need to be tightened.  When I bought my replacement pump, those 4 bolts were nearly loose to begin with so I could see how they would loosen up and start leaking.  I made them tighter as part of my new pump conversion process.

It is also possible the pump is leaking in a manner that requires replacement.  The question to ask yourself is whether the dripping warrants replacement.  My original pump dripped for a number of years before I replaced it.  It didn't drip much and it did stop dripping soon after dumping.  Since my original pump had a broken bolt which ended up jamming the pump, I do wonder if that bolt had broke long before which may have started the dripping in the first place.

My advise (for what it's worth) is that if it drips only during dumping and for a short while afterward, don't be troubled.  Just ignore it.  Now if it's a serious stream, that's different.
Thank you  It only drips when in use so I think I will not replace it .   I do not put paper in the toilet and don't do my daily in it as well and use the campground's rest room so there is only liquid in the black tank.  Worst comes to worst I can dump the usual way. So thanks again.
I can collect the drippings and dump the down the sewer when the pump is done.   Happy Camping.
You are nearly like us.  My wife does put toilet paper down the toilet, but we never have done #2.  So our macerator macerates just toilet paper.  You are better than us, and I think you have the right idea.....just keep using it as is.  If it gets a lot worse, have someone look into what's going on down there.

One other thing to wonder about are the discussions others here have about the flexible hose leaking right there by the pump.  Maybe a light spray is hitting the pump, making it appear the pump itself is leaking.

If you lived near by, I'd suggest you bring your PC over and I'd have a look-see.
62  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Maserator system on: April 18, 2017, 03:12:33 pm
To freckstweety and PC family,

I found a very affordable replacement to the Sanicon pump as described in detail HERE.
Thank you ever so much for the detailed reply.  I will double check with PC and see what they say as well and double check to see the what macerator is presently installed.   Just want to get the right one.   Thanks again.
I checked my Flojet pump as I was de-winterizing the MH and when the pump was on, it leaked from under the pump and not at any of the fittings So I don't know where the problems is as it is coming from under the metal brace that holds the pump.   Where and what part is that?Does that mean the pump is bad?
The leak might originate at an attachment point of the pump to something else.  Maybe the pump assembly is fine and it is leaking somewhere near it, just finding it's way down to that drip point.

It might be that the 4 bolts that hold the pump assembly together have become loose and they simply need to be tightened.  When I bought my replacement pump, those 4 bolts were nearly loose to begin with so I could see how they would loosen up and start leaking.  I made them tighter during my new pump conversion process.

It is also possible the pump is leaking in a manner that requires replacement.  The question to ask yourself is whether the dripping warrants replacement.  My original pump dripped for a number of years before I replaced it.  It didn't drip much and it did stop dripping soon after dumping.  Since my original pump had a broken bolt which ended up jamming the pump, I do wonder if that bolt had broke long before which may have started the dripping in the first place.

My advise (for what it's worth) is that if it drips only during dumping and for a short while afterward, don't be troubled.  Just ignore it.  Now if it's a serious stream, that's different.  I would have it looked at, either tighten-up or replaced.

63  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Maserator system on: April 17, 2017, 08:42:10 am
It has been a few years since I replaced our Sanicon macerator pump with a $58 Seaflo version so I thought I would do some quick shopping on Ebay to find out what is available today.  There is a good seletion starting at $45.00 which need the sewage entrance tube portion cut off, a simple 10 minute cut-&-vac process.  The last one for $99.99 is especially interesting.

All come with a mounting stand you unscrew and discard.  The screw holes then become weep holes, a perfect situation.

$45 opening bid, many up for auction, Surgeflo includes shipping ($51.44 Buy-It-Now)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12GPM-12V-Macerator-Pump-Self-priming-Waste-Water-Toilet-Marine-RV-Boat-Camper-/201890489311?hash=item2f019c63df:g:GwcAAOSwdzVXvUDF&vxp=mtr

$51.45 Singflo includes shipping
This one has a metal motor body end cap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-45LPM-12GPM-Macerator-Sanitation-Waste-Water-Pump-Toilet-RV-Marine-Boat-/282067764199?hash=item41ac8c83e7:g:Z6wAAOSwEzxYRmEN&vxp=mtr


$53.99 Aurelio Tech includes shipping
This one is labelled "Professional Grade"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Macerator-Water-Waste-Pump-45-LPM-12GPM-Toilet-RV-Trailer-Camper-Marine-Boat-/322155371527?hash=item4b01f4dc07:g:8zUAAOSwNuxXZC~t&vxp=mtr

$59.99 No Name brand includes shipping
This one appears to have a removable end cap to use a screwdriver to free up a jammed macerator.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-45-LPM-12GPM-Macerator-Water-Waste-Pump-Toilet-RV-Trailer-Camper-Marine-Boat-/381014796430?hash=item58b640688e:g:5ZYAAOSwls5Y7mAq&vxp=mtr

$82.95 Seaflo includes shipping
This is the one I bought a few years ago for $58 as mentioned in my macerator replacement project write-up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seaflo-Brand-Marine-and-RV-Macerator-Pump-12V-Model-SFMP1-120-01-/192067568477?hash=item2cb81e835d:g:ELQAAOSwVcFXOnoM&vxp=mtr


$99.99 Seaflo includes shipping (THIS MIGHT BE A WINNER)
This one is MOST interesting because it has the 4 prong connection for direct-connect to RV plumbing.  Just remove and discard the end piece.  I wonder if it mounts right up perfect onto a PC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEAFLO-12V-RV-Discharge-Mount-Macerator-Waste-Pump-45-LPM-12GPM-Boat-RV-Marine-/161844749965?hash=item25aeb2e68d:g:g~YAAOSwoudW2QU9&vxp=mtr


There are some very affordable alternative replacements to the stock macerator pump, if you are willing to do a little extra work.  Just cut off the end of the pump so it matches your original one.  This assuming your original macerator is the same as my original as I had detailed HERE.
64  Main Forum / Tips and Tricks / Re: Low Cost Macerator Pump Replacement (Saved A Pile Of Money) on: April 16, 2017, 08:14:14 am
The loud macerator motor noise most definitely resonates through the black PCB waste pipe.  Not the strap that holds the macerator.  The replacement macerator resonates much less than the original one due to it being new.  I am confident it will get louder over time and wear just like the original one did.
65  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Maserator system on: April 15, 2017, 03:12:58 pm
To freckstweety and PC family,

I found a very affordable replacement to the Sanicon pump as described in detail HERE.
66  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sanicon Turbo Macerator on: April 15, 2017, 03:08:44 pm
I agree.  A flange seems a really good thing to have.  I would call the factory and ask if they could mail you a flange.  Maybe they have some lying around.  Then install it yourself.  But hard-piping it through the hole does sound like a better idea.  Either approach would appear easy for a do-it-yourself type.
67  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Furnace not working on: April 15, 2017, 09:49:05 am
Just a generalization here.

If a circuit board is corroded, you can clean off the corrosion and reuse the circuit board as long as the terminals are in good condition after the cleaning.  I have done it numerous times on circuit boards that get damaged from corrosion.  When you are done with your cleaning process, just rinse well with warm tap water, followed by a final rinse with distilled water, shake off the worst of it, and let the circuit board sit to dry for a day.  When you reassemble, squeeze some silicone grease into the connectors and connect them so the grease oozes out.  Then you are great shape and it cost you nothing but your time.  They sell special corrosion cleaning products to clean circuit boards, but I use household CLR.

My job for 38 years was designing circuit boards and specifying production processes for them, including the cleaning process.  Many years ago before the EPA cracked down ozone depletion, circuit boards were cleaned with freon to clean off the flux.  The environmental solution was to use a water soluble flux and the boards get cleaned with a purified water and then dried.

So, as long as the circuit board is well rinsed of your cleaning agent like CLR, and properly dried, it's generally a very safe process.  Remember, I am talking about circuit boards, not complete assemblies like an assembled cell phone or camera for example.  The circuit board must be removed, then cleaned & dried, then reassembled back into it's purpose.  In the rare case example of an RV water heater with the circuit board in plain view, you should be able to clean the terminals without removing the circuit board.  But then first disconnect your batteries so assure there is no power in the area.

I once bought a headed to a junk yard dead 1991 Mercury Capri which had open-to-the-environment non-sealed electrical connectors under the hood that were corroded.  After my cleaning process and silicone grease protection to every connector, that cute little turbo convertible was back in full reliable service.
68  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sanicon Turbo Macerator on: April 15, 2017, 09:26:09 am
Our 2007 macerator hose has not yet leaked to-date.  Here is a picture of the area being discussed.  Phoenix used some kind of a plastic flange where the hose passes through.  You can see the gray colored plastic passing through the hole and one of two sharp-tipped screws but they do not contact the hose.


The flange resembles this.


Does every have such a flange?  Or did Phoenix eliminate it in recent years that the hose is getting damaged?
69  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Florida PC dealer on: April 15, 2017, 09:18:37 am
(my wife met you at Glacier NP)
I remember that.  We met at the viewpoint to see the Many Glacier lodge from across the lake.
70  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 110 Volt Power Questions on: April 13, 2017, 08:00:12 pm
It is best if you can get to the power peg with your 30 amp cord.  Then use an adapter right there at the peg.  If your PC provided cable is too short, it's better to have a 30 amp extension.  This way you are better equipped for other situations when 30 amp service is available but too far away.

I had bought two 25 foot 30 amp extension cords from Menards on clearance for $15 each.  It's not a good idea to get too long like that, but it's much better than a 15 amp extension cord of the same length.  In all our travels, I used one extension cord one time, in Black Canyon Of The Gunnison NP.  They actually had a power peg in the camp ground, very unusual for a national park.  But it was not close enough to use the PC cord alone.  I also recall there were a few power pegs in the Badlands NP campground. but again, too far for one 30 amp cord to reach.

Come to thinking about a quick remedy adapter, Walmart sells a real small adapter with no cable in between, just like this.  It is very affordable and readily available.
71  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 110 Volt Power Questions on: April 13, 2017, 05:14:12 pm
Ron,
With that splitter will I plug in as usual with the 30 amp connection and I will tie in the 110 v to the female end of your splitter example?
Ooops!

This is the one you want.  Same thing but male/female in reverse.  Sorry about the mixup....a senior moment.  I get them more frequently as I get older.   Smile
72  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: 110 Volt Shore Power Questions on: April 13, 2017, 04:55:18 pm
RV camping at a Music Festival near Austin, TX and available shore power is limited to 110 Volt and generators are not allowed.  I would appreciate suggestions on hook up to 110 and/or how to maximize my house batteries for 6 days. shrug  
You need one of these, called a 30amp to 15amp adaptor.  Understand that you won't be able to do anything else serious with electricity while the a/c unit is running.  When the a/c unit shuts off, focus on battery charging and limit your RV usage to 12V operation during those times when possible.

When trying to maintain our batteries with limited 110V (primarily limited to using the generator) I turn off the inverter because it consumes 12 amps of 12V battery juice when creating 110V energy of which is doing nothing.  I also charge our house batteries using a more efficient secondary charger like the one pictured farther down.   It brings the batteries to full much more quickly than the charger built in the PC.  Because we rarely have 110V available, I run the generator to maintain the batteries, hence I use a much faster battery charger so the generator runs much less.


73  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Sagging rear end on: April 13, 2017, 02:19:02 pm
We had an extra leaf added to the rear suspension instead of air bags. It was much less expensive than the quoted price for air bags and the impact on ride quality was  positive. It raised the rear about an inch and a half.
Your comment is very interesting.  If I could be assured our a/c unit won't contact the garage door frame, I would look into it.  But when I park the motor home with the a/c unit under the opening, it looks like about a 1.5" gap.

Thanks bhgareau for sharing that.
74  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Utah journey on: April 13, 2017, 12:10:47 pm
catsaplenty,

Can someone get on the roof while another is inside?  Have the roof person gently rattle/shake or lightly rotate the antenna too & fro while the other person inside pushes the button.  Maybe something got jammed and you can get it free.  It could be dirt or other debris that has caused the button to get stuck.  If it reoccurs quickly, then you might have a problem.  But if not, then you fixed it.
75  Main Forum / General Discussion / Re: Leveling blocks on: April 13, 2017, 12:04:00 pm
We have the Lynx and I like them.  They are light weight, easy for anyone to handle, easy to store in the provided zippered bags, they don't move around when driving up on them, they clean up easy with a rinse as needed, and they do the job.  They work well with Hoppy levels.  One tick mark on the Hoppy level equals one inch which means one Lynx block.  Three tick marks means you need to stack three Lynx blocks high.    I also endorse the optional Lynx top caps and the wheels chocks.  They all work very well together.

But there are other good products that do the same.  I just happen to have experience with the Lynx brand.
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