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 on: Today at 08:53:28 pm 
Started by Two Hams in a Can - Last post by Two Hams in a Can
I think the air in the hot water lines are from a very slow seeping of water into the hot water heater, mu h like the very slow drops coming out of the faucets.  The toilet is the only thing running full flow. Go figure shrug

 on: Today at 08:42:52 pm 
Started by Two Hams in a Can - Last post by Two Hams in a Can
Thanks...I'll try the bypass thing. My PC predates the 4 way valve switch.

Edit:  Nope...didn't work.

 on: Today at 08:32:55 pm 
Started by Two Hams in a Can - Last post by jatrax
Check the fill valve and see if it is still in the 'winterize' position.  If so it will be trying to siphon from the antifreeze fitting and drawing in air along with the water.  That is assuming your rig has the 4 position fill valve.  Not sure what year they started to put that on.  I think, but I'm not sure that this would cause the water pump to not work at all because it will be drawing from the antifreeze fitting exclusively.

If you are seeing air at the faucets that means to me that air is getting in.  So if not the fill valve above check all your valves and openings to make sure they are closed.  Another place to look would be the water heater element port. 

Try running with the water heater in by pass mode to eliminate the water heater as the problem.

 on: Today at 08:05:08 pm 
Started by Two Hams in a Can - Last post by Two Hams in a Can
We winterized our PC 2400 Sprinter where we saw pink coming out of all faucets.  We drained the water heater, did the bypass valves, put anti freeze in the p traps and settled down for a short winter's nap.  We attempted to de-winterize today and have had a terrible time with it.  The water flow has been erratic from the kitchen faucet, bathroom faucet and the shower faucet when hooked up to city water.  The toilet runs full flow just fine.  The hot water sides on all faucets might spit and blow with air in the lines and not much, if any water in the water heater.  After disconnecting from city water, we put water in the tank and ran the water pump with no results; so we shut the pump off rather than running it possibly dry.

There seems to be some intermittent blockage in the lines going to all the faucets and probably the water heater, but not the toilet.  Could it be partially frozen water/antifreeze?  It hasn't been that much below freezing here in recent days.  Has anyone dealt with this weird situation before\?  We are stumped!   Help   Cheers

 on: Today at 05:21:32 pm 
Started by garmp - Last post by Michelle Dungan
Although I generally try for the center circle in the bull's eye level as I move it around the Dometic  freezer floor (the freezer floor itself is not perfectly flat), I do recall the manual stating the RV should level enough to be comfortable to use, so the work needed to level to the center of that bull's eye in an oblique-angled site probably is unnecessary, and leveling to the outer ring of the bull's eye may be sufficient.  That said, one refer tech once said that ANY slightly off-level operation of any absorption refer was like slow cholesterol build-up in your arteries over time, so best to always level as best one can if parked for more than a few minutes. 

And how to level?  We also have Lynx, and planks per this post from awhile back:
"For the 2x8 or 2x10s needed to fully support tire tread, redwood works well as it doesn't quickly split.  For 4", regular Douglas fir is OK.  A chain saw makes a nice rough angled cut for tire grip, but there are limits to how high a pyramid you want to stack, and they do take up a lot of room in back of the Roadtrek."

 on: Today at 12:14:33 pm 
Started by garmp - Last post by hutch42
I am not sure what model Norcold fridge the 2100 has.  The specs for the 6.3 CF Norcold says that it should be not more
then 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back (looking at the front of fridge) out of level.  3 degrees equals .7 inches
per horizontal foot.  6 degrees equals 1.25 inches per horizontal foot.

So with a 138 inch wheelbase, it could be 8 inches out of level.  3 degrees= .7" per ft X 138" (11.5') = 8.0''
 "    "    "   84   "    Dual axle width "    "   8+    "       "    "    "    6     "      1.25"  "   "  X   84" (7.0")  = 8.75"

Thats quite a bit of slope front to back of RV and a monster slope side to side.  Probably fall out of bed!  Not sure
how far HWH jacks extend.  Sounds like the wheels could actually come off the ground at 8 inches?

Was trying to think of our trip last fall and I dont think I ever used more then three 2X4's on any one side.  Thats
4.5 inches.  Oh, yes there was one time in a state park on Lake Erie that we searched the woods for logs.  That was the
exception though.  Could have built a toboggan run on that site.

Hutch 42

 on: February 25, 2017, 05:51:16 pm 
Started by garmp - Last post by RheaNL
I also us the Tri-Lynx levelers which I purchased just because they were there when I needed them. Had done no research.  Like them a lot for all the reasons Ron listed. Ran into one situation where one pack wasn't enough, but added a board under and worked fine.

 on: February 25, 2017, 05:44:03 pm 
Started by garmp - Last post by ron.dittmer
I use Lynx Leveler blocks, top-caps, and wheel chucks.  They are light weight, compact and store cleanly in their zipped blue bags, so they store nicely in our 2350's outside storage compartment where weight is sensitive.   I wouldn't build them up more than 5 high which is 5 inches, per their instructions.

We carry 3 blue bags of levelers with 4 top caps, and a box of two wheel chocks.

 on: February 25, 2017, 05:18:23 pm 
Started by garmp - Last post by garmp
So, after all this, other than installed levelers, what leveling system do you use, wood blocks, plastic lego systems, Camco Tri-leveler type, Andersen type? Which? and why that choice, if you don't mind.


 on: February 25, 2017, 08:41:37 am 
Started by JoeyD - Last post by ron.dittmer
GoPhoenix, And you saved some good money as well.

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