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General Discussion / Re: On Demand Water Heater Install
« Last post by Volkemon on Today at 08:48:12 am »
Luckily, the existing opening 'up and down' is correct, and it is too wide 'side to side'. The instructions call for adding a 2x2 brace, luckily I will not have to cut any framing. I would be VERY hesitant to do that.

The heater mounts into the flange/door assembly via a formed mounting ring. The square outline below on the flange/door mount. Note how it is off to one side, this is the 'extra' room I will have.


The 'stopper' , if you will, seems to be the flush mount Atwood 6 gal heater. All the door kits say they fit a '6 gal Atwood', but evidently the flush mount used in my 2350 was not a popular item. And is different.  :'(

Possibility at this point...  modify the new flange (remove the new door) to mount the water heater in the existing flange. Then cut the vents and exhaust ring from the new door, and spot weld the panel into the existing door. Do finishwork and paint... *should* work.

Mrs V is a not pleased that the kit does not fit 'as advertised', so plans must be firm and workable before tearout of the existing heater starts.

Many pictures will be taken.   (nod) I do wish there was an easier solution.
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General Discussion / Re: On Demand Water Heater Install
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on Today at 07:56:38 am »
Volkemon,

Is it possible to use the original PC water heater access door and leave the opening alone?  Maybe you could add another vent in the existing door where needed.  That might be better than changing the original opening.  I say this because Phoenix frames every opening in the floor, walls, and ceiling.  To modify any opening, you will have to cut the nice metal structural inner frame.

The framing is mentioned in minute 7:24 in this 11 year old video/slideshow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Mfp-jZIR0
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General Discussion / Re: On Demand Water Heater Install
« Last post by Volkemon on Today at 06:36:15 am »
Try searching with quotes around "on demand" or "on demand water heater"

It should restrict the search engine to that grouping of words

 tymote  2o2 tymote

Thanks for the clue. Now I know there is no thread started on the subject. (aside from mine, now...)

Hoping to get some progress tonight!

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General Discussion / Re: On Demand Water Heater Install
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on Today at 04:58:32 am »
Try searching with quotes around "on demand" or "on demand water heater"

It should restrict the search engine to that grouping of words
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Tips and Tricks / Re: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on September 17, 2018, 11:36:10 pm »
Added #39
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Tips and Tricks / Re: Ron Dittmer's Compilation Of Personal Tips & Tricks
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on September 17, 2018, 11:30:47 pm »
Added Kitchen Towel Rack
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General Discussion / Re: PC owners in Southern California?
« Last post by Lmoore101 on September 17, 2018, 10:41:55 pm »
This is great, haven't been to that show in a few years and will check out PCs setup.

Thanks!
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General Discussion / Re: Slide out
« Last post by rvrunner on September 17, 2018, 09:38:42 pm »
My slide jerks a lot from start to finish, going in or out. I argued at the factory that it should be smoother but they insisted all there slide outs jerk. I should have looked at others when I was at the rally in Duluth but wasn't thinking of it at the time.

   Lynn
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Tips and Tricks / Kitchen Towel Bar Addition
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on September 17, 2018, 09:14:42 pm »
After 11 years of monkeying around with our kitchen towel & wash cloth, I finally came up with this idea and implemented it with Irene's approval.  We both think it's the best solution for us.  We considered mounting this towel bar on the lower cabinet door as it had been intended for, but given our no-slide quarters, we both felt it would be in our way there.

This is what we bought.


We bought it at Bed Bath & Beyond for $9.99 plus sales tax.


I modified it, cutting off the hook portions and drilled holes.


I screwed it first into the side, then into the top for a very nice tight fit.


Here it is mounted.
A single bar version is sold for $7.99, but I do "Not" recommend it for this application.
This two-bar version sticks out nice and far for ease of use, yet not in our way getting in and out from our PC.


Here are 3 pictures with towel and wash cloth.  They hang beyond the main door opening as not to interfere getting in and out of the house..




The towel and wash cloth hang right where they are needed, yet hang forward enough as not to be in your face.

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General Discussion / Re: Slide out
« Last post by RheaNL on September 17, 2018, 06:04:42 pm »
     The rubber seals all around the slide--and there are a lot of them--need to be frequently lubricated. I use Thetford Slid Out Rubber Seal Conditioner. I also use Boeshield T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection on everything that slides like the screw drives under the slide and the large rod on the top left and right. An important part of the process is to remove anything (dirt, sticky stuff from previous sprayings, etc) off the sides of the slide. If you get rubber sealer on those big top rods, clean it off before treating with the lubricant.  I live in very dry Colorado so it is part of my annual routine when putting the PC to bed for the winter.
      The above mentioned rubber seal spray should be applied to ALL rubber seals--window/door frames, compartment seals, spare tire seal.
      One time I took it to an RV service center with an excellent reputation (not CW) and paid good money for a spring start up that was to include the above described.....NOT!
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