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General Discussion / Re: Step lube
« Last post by Free2RV on Today at 06:03:24 am »
On our prior RV, the manual for the steps recommended using silicone because it doesn't attract and hold dirt.
General Discussion / Re: Step lube
« Last post by Cropduster on December 12, 2018, 07:40:41 pm »
I first clean the step's moving components with WD or similar type spray.  Then  I wipe it down those areas and use a small paintbrush (flux brush) along with a minimum amount of synthetic grease on all the step raise/lower contact points. So far (knock wood) this has worked without any problems. 
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on December 12, 2018, 02:17:25 pm »
Personally hutch42, I feel the best chassis is an E350 under model PC-2100.  I do think some kind of a lift kit (maybe an extra leaf spring per rear corner) would make the 2100 better yet.  Given so much weight rests on the rear axle, I also wonder if lesser-rated springs up front would also benefit the 2100.  Some light suspension modifications could make the 2100 absolutely perfect.

The V10 is a lot of extra engine for model 2100.  I hear the smaller V8 engine will increase fuel economy by at least 10%.  The smaller & lighter V8 engine would further aggravate the load imbalance.

If I were special ordering a 2100, I would surely look into chassis options like the V8 engine (yet keeping the 55 gallon fuel tank) and see what can be done getting the spring weight in-line with the actual coach weight.  Without mods, model 2100 sits way too high up front, and far too low in back.
« Last post by hutch42 on December 12, 2018, 01:57:58 pm »
With the entry of the Ford Transit chassis to the stable of Phoenix Cruiser RV models, I thought I would share a report recently put together for the Winnebago Fuse Owners Forum.  It has been 3 years this week since Winnebago introduced the Ford Transit Fuse.  Pretty much the first RV manufacture to utilize the Transit chassis as a class C motorhome in the U.S.

The report covers basic facts about the Ford Transit and reasons why folks chose the Transit over other chassis.  The report does not cover the performance, fit and functions of the Winnebago coach/body.  I would have to say that like any new entry's of the big three, Winnebago had its share of glitches on the Fuse.  Mostly annoying items that should have been caught during production.  That said, I think Winnebago has responded well to owners concerns and has made many changes to fix most issues.

The opinions and stats surely do not represent all RV owners or future owners.  This is a small, lightweight RV and would most likely not satisfy folks that are looking for a full time unit, or one with lots of living space.  It seems that there is a trend with the late boomers and other younger generations for a smaller more nimble RV's.

General Discussion / Re: Step lube
« Last post by rvrunner on December 12, 2018, 01:07:29 pm »
I think silicone lube would be fine. I'm using Walmart Super Tec spray at the moment. They told me at the factory they were using BP Blaster, that stuff stinks. I think a lube which dries so dirt doesn't collect in the hinges would be best.

General Discussion / Step lube
« Last post by garmp on December 12, 2018, 12:39:58 pm »
I realize that there are step lubes on the market, but I seem to have an abundance of silicone spray on my hands. Would I be in error to use this to lube my steps on my 2100? I realize that the step lube is not that expensive, but it is at the store and I am here and I have this. Do I need that?
Don is right, should you not be inclined to get up on the roof, or not ready to tear into the AC, get to a shop! Around here 1 hr is standard minimum for labor, and for this type of problem usually finding it is most of the job towards fixing it anyway. So the diagnostic time HOPEFULLY will turn into repair time as it progresses.

I am one of those freaks that takes everything broken apart... and fixes most of them!   :lol   Its an addiction. I just like to know how everything works.
General Discussion / Re: Jacks up or down?
« Last post by Volkemon on December 12, 2018, 05:46:33 am »
I have never had levelers, so have no idea what should be done with them while in storage, but the original question begs me to ask:

Why would you want to take weight off the springs?

Many times on leaf springs, like we have in back, debris and water can get between the leaves of the spring. During periods of inactivity, the leaves can corrode together, often making for a very stiff ride until they break free, if they do.

If you leave the springs in a 'relaxed' state, or 'wheels hanging' , when you return the vehicle to the ground it uses the vehicle weight to flex the spring and free things up.

Sorta had a proof of this when we stopped putting our Jeep Commando plow truck in the air each spring. The first winter the springs freed up around the middle of the winter, the second year it stayed solid.  Probably contributed to it finally cracking in half. That and the rust! 

General Discussion / Re: Jacks up or down?
« Last post by fandj on December 11, 2018, 06:50:37 pm »
I have never sprayed the leveling jack rods with any solvents or lubricants so have no personal experience.  I found in this HWH document a reference to clean with WD-40.  Right or wrong I think I would follow HWH’s recommendations.  I think of WD40 primarily as a solvent with “Water Dry (WD)” agents.


General Discussion / Re: Jacks up or down?
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on December 11, 2018, 04:57:35 pm »
Wow, that is very surprising to read.  I spray WD-40 all the time on things I want to protect including hydraulic shafts and such.  I clean them with a solvent when it's time again to use them.  But......

Don't listen to me, listen to donc13 and Barry T with the manual in front of him.

I better not share what I used to protect with WD-40 for 23 years.

Ron, are you one of those who sprays their arthritic joints and fishing lures with WD40?!?   roflol  :lol

Barry T
Hey.....Those are great ideas!    roflol  :lol
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