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 1 
 on: Today at 09:00:52 pm 
Started by magnumiii - Last post by donc13
Randall and Chris

The problem is when it is hooked up to the city water it leaks over into the fresh water tank side of the valve and continuously runs as long as the water is turned on. It does run out of the overflow like it is supposed to do, however it doesn't stop running as long as the city water is hooked up and turned on, makes quite a mess on the ground if I leave it running

Sounds like you have the selector set on the tank fill mark, rather than the city water mark.  On my 2015 model 2551, it's an Anderson 4 way valve.  Pointed UP is normal self contained tank/water pump mode.  Pointed Right is suction mode so you can suck RV Antifreeze into the system to winterize, pointed down is city water operation no need for water pump to get water flow...this position should NOT fill your water tank.  Pointed left will fill your water tank and (on my 2551) the overflow comes out the passenger side fill only.    When filling the tank, once water starts coming out the overflow...even shutting the water completely off,water will continue to come out the overflow for a minute or two.

When I turn my water valve, I turn it just past the click stop and then back.   

If your valve is mis-plumbed or defective, that is a fairly major job reworking the plumbing as it runs behind the shower/cabinet/toilet etc.


 2 
 on: Today at 07:42:51 pm 
Started by HenryJ - Last post by ron.dittmer
Hi Patricia,

I don't know your specific PC toilet, but I seem to recall that our PC toilet seat is contoured around the bowl.  When sitting on the seat, my body weight is distributed around the bowl.

A conventional toilet seat from a home improvement center typically doesn't sit flush on the ceramic bowl.  It has stand-offs.  If I installed a conventional seat on our plastic PC toilet, the concentrated pressure might cause a break.

Just keep that in mind when replacing your toilet seat.  Maybe removing the stand-offs and resting the seat flat across the bowl will eliminate such concern.

Ron

 3 
 on: Today at 06:42:18 pm 
Started by HenryJ - Last post by HenryJ
The next step in the toilet project is to find a new toilet seat and eliminate the seat with all th cut outs in the bottom... A cleaning nightmare. No advice  from Thetford... So with his measurements in hand Jim went off to shop for new seat. He selected one which looks like it will  work and measures well. tomorrow he will try it out and see... And I will tell you the brand and model if it does work well. Regards, Patricia

 4 
 on: Today at 05:16:00 pm 
Started by magnumiii - Last post by magnumiii
 Randall and Chris

The problem is when it is hooked up to the city water it leaks over into the fresh water tank side of the valve and continuously runs as long as the water is turned on. It does run out of the overflow like it is supposed to do, however it doesn't stop running as long as the city water is hooked up and turned on, makes quite a mess on the ground if I leave it running

 5 
 on: Today at 05:15:13 pm 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
The slide margins take up a lot of area.
The slide margins is about half of the over-all gain of wall space.  The remainder is gained by utilizing the angled transition wall.  The front-most dinette bench is built against that angled wall, but not so much that it interferes with the movement of the driver seat.

If you want a bigger dinette than we have with a bigger table, more leg room, and bigger benches, the no-slide 2351 and 2552 can accommodate, but you'd have to sacrifice the pantry on that wall.  If we were ordering a new 2351 with no slide out, I think we might have considered doing that.  Either that or build the coat closet that much bigger with two doors, an interior wall, and have adjustable shelves inside the additional closet space for interior storage flexibility.  It could be shelved pantry space, space for clothes, or remove the shelves and make it a space for golf clubs and other tall items.

 6 
 on: Today at 04:05:01 pm 
Started by magnumiii - Last post by renotse
Renotse you are correct about a real heat pump, such as I have at home, but what was advertised as a heat pump on my PC has the coil. I was surprised when the tech show me the coil. He was checking the a/c when he showed me the coil. He said most RV a/c s are like that. I can't say myself but am just passing along what I saw.



I believe someone might have told you heat strip. Dometic makes both an a/c with heat strip and a heat pump. They are different machines.

Here are some links to the 15k variants from Dometic website

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/air-conditioners-for-rvs/dometic-penguin-ii-_-20682

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/air-conditioners-for-rvs/dometic-penguin-ii-_-20780

Here is an interesting link discussing the difference as they apply to roof-top RV units
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof-ac-vs-heat-pump-126811.html

I have not taken delivery of my unit yet,  so I might have been duped, but I know my old RV had the Dometic heat pump and pretty sure the   compressor had to run to generate heat.

Dometic Flyer shows two distinct product lines. A/C (with heater) and Heat pump. Anyone with additional information please chime in.

http://dometic3frontend.qbank.se/episerver/437389b63ca307f2500b8b031957a824.pdf

 7 
 on: Today at 03:38:37 pm 
Started by ron-n-toni - Last post by Syd and Margo
We are half way there so what will be will be.  A few great National Parks on the way

 8 
 on: Today at 03:26:44 pm 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by renotse
I really like the fact that you gain extra height above the booth and more useable length along the drivers side wall so that your headroom, legroom, and bed length will be increased. The slide margins take up a lot of area. If a person really wants a booth in a 2551/2552 this is a very viable option when compared to slide out on that model.

 9 
 on: Today at 03:09:46 pm 
Started by magnumiii - Last post by TomHanlon
Renotse you are correct about a real heat pump, such as I have at home, but what was advertised as a heat pump on my PC has the coil. I was surprised when the tech show me the coil. He was checking the a/c when he showed me the coil. He said most RV a/c s are like that. I can't say myself but am just passing along what I saw.


 10 
 on: Today at 11:49:19 am 
Started by magnumiii - Last post by renotse

My heat pump has a heating coil that the air blows over. The compressor does nothing for heating.

It's not a Heat Pump then, a Heat pump is a special design that uses the compressor to heat and cool, What you have is a resistance heat strip in your A/C

From Wiki

When a heat pump is used for heating, it employs the same basic refrigeration-type cycle used by an air conditioner or a refrigerator, but in the opposite direction - releasing heat into the conditioned space rather than the surrounding environment. In this use, heat pumps generally draw heat from the cooler external air or from the ground.

In heating mode, heat pumps are three to four times more effective at heating than simple electrical resistance heaters using the same amount of electricity.

Quote from: TomHanlon
The only QC I saw was when I looked into the bathroom mirror. Oh, it was me.  That was back in 2011, things might have changed since then.

That's a shame,

A manufacturer pays the cost of Quality, whether building it in or repairing it in after the fact. The former builds market share, the later destroys it.

Not to mention first pass quality is always more economical

"Improve quality, you automatically improve productivity"
W. Edwards Deming

It is most important that top management be quality-minded. In the absence of sincere manifestation of interest at the top, little will happen below. Joseph M. Juran

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