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 1 
 on: Today at 10:43:42 am 
Started by fandj - Last post by Joseph
If your going to place a ground fault recepticle you have the issue someone mentioned of concerns of if something shorted such as your heater. Also I have yet to see a ped that the adjacent 15 amp 110 outlet wasnt on its own breaker.

I have considered doing exactly what you are looking at and rather than drilling thru fiberglass I have considered having the connection just under fiberglass by adding a bracket to hold it there, much like your receptacle for your toad wiring in the rear. I would place it either near the battery box which might be a pain due to having to having to throw your cord under the rv at every hook up due to the ped being on the other side. If I do this I will place the ground fault on the cabinet near/under the sink as it allows easy access under neath. The issue here if you place the male exterior recepticle on the side of the ped is running your wiring to the passenger side before entering.  So once I get around to it if I can find a good way to run the supply wire from the ped side to the passenger side of the rig that will be my first choice. If not Ill deal with throwing the cord under or dragging along a long enough cord to go around the rig to the ped.

 2 
 on: December 12, 2017, 04:54:09 pm 
Started by jfcaramagno - Last post by donc13
Does anyone know the manufacturer of the Euro chair? I need to order a new part.

Pauk's in Elkhart

http://paulsseating.net

 3 
 on: December 12, 2017, 04:41:02 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by donc13
There is ONLY one way to do it safely... A 50 amp plug to 30a AND 15a adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRN4C73/ref=asc_df_B01MRN4C735299883/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01MRN4C73&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5556998667899434989&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028903&hvtargid=pla-348585281213

Which means you MUST select a spot with a 50a receptacle.

Your other option... Turn off the heater before you use the microwave.

 4 
 on: December 10, 2017, 09:19:55 am 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.  In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.  Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.  The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection.
Boy oh boy, the surprises keep coming.  I feel for you.  Hopefully you can tackle each issue with successful permanent results.

Well, this leak I really should have forecast.. the shelf is warped, I can see the gap outside on the panel..  Embarrassed So it really sorta funny. Little stress.

 It is dry season here... soon. (We did get 2 3/4 inches measured fri-sat however) I will be sealing up. And taking pictures. We have a festival in 2+ weeks.

Its messy stuff, but I am thinking of using 'urethane sealant for this. Any thoughts on what I should re-seat/reseal things with?

 5 
 on: December 10, 2017, 09:12:15 am 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
The front Ford stabilizer bar end bushings (also called grommets) is what wears and does so very quickly.  The steel stabilizer bar itself is severely under-rated for the full load of a motor home, rendering it nearly ineffective.  Add the end rubber grommet wear and it's a decoration.

Making this clear for the other readers here....If you have a 2008 Ford chassis or newer, you have a better front stabilizer bar design direct from Ford.  Your bar is still under-rated for the load of a motor home, but your end links are not rubber grommets and don't have the quick-wear issue.

I certainly admire your perseverance in concerns about the swaybar.  We are not currently operating the coach at anywhere near max GVWR. Guessing 500# cargo, 1/2 full freshwater, empty waste tanks. Full propane.
We did ~150 miles last night going to a show and back. Left late, realized we forgot a major food item  sad, then left even later after returning home to get it.... we are now in a hurry driving a motorhome.  rolling on the floor

Very pleasant experience.  Grin Grin The handing of that coach is excellent. We kept 80-85 MPH down most of the interstate hwy travel. I followed whoever was going faster than us. Little bit of high speed tire imbalance, but nothing objectionable considering. VERY gusty winds coming from '2 O'clock' and '5 O'clock'. I was very happy with the handling, and the MOST important judge, Mrs V, was very comfortable.  ThumbsUp went back to the kitchen to portion out desserts we were giving away later. She had no idea we were not doing 65.

For ~20 miles down US1, it was 3 lane jam packed traffic, close quarters, and 45-60 mph. Mrs V commented a few times about how happy she was that I was driving.. I think she was expecting us to 'kiss mirrors' a few times with other trucks. I have a lot of seat time in box trucks, 15-25 foot, and some in dump trucks, so I am pretty comfortable driving this coach. With wind, traffic and our speed, again I was pleased with the handling.

Parked in a small office lot, amazing a few onlookers as I slid in with the coach.  Grin I love that short wheelbase. My buddies F350 is 23' 'bumper to ball hitch' but wont go near where this baby slides in. My habit of using ALL the steering available also gave me an airbag code 34, prolly the clockspring.  Not surprising. Troubleshoot it later.

In 3 weekswe have our first festival, going for 5 days/4 nights. We will be a bit heavier in the coach, and probably with a light trailer.  (under 2K# gross) I will see what difference that makes im my opinion.   nod   But for now, I am very pleased with the handling the coach is giving me in its present form.


 6 
 on: December 09, 2017, 09:57:14 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by ron.dittmer
ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.  In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.  Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.  The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection.
Boy oh boy, the surprises keep coming.  I feel for you.  Hopefully you can tackle each issue with successful permanent results.

 7 
 on: December 09, 2017, 09:42:19 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by ron.dittmer
I have an unrelated question.  I assume your 2006 PC-2350 is built on either a 2005 or 2006 Ford E350 chassis.  Do you know what a stabilizer bar looks like?  If so, look under your rig and see if you have one for your rear axle.  You won't unless the previous owner installed one.  Also check your front stabilizer bar.  The Ford stock front stabilizer bar, the ends of it go into holes inside the front lower suspension.  If you see any gap between the bar and the end rubber grommets (I suspect you will) your front bar is worn.  Installing heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars will be well worth the extra investment for driving safety and comfort.  CLICK HERE  to read more about it.  CLICK HERE to read how to check your own suspension.

I have read both the links you reference, and many others here from you. I am one who 'lurks' for some time before posting to avoid repeating questions.
I am familiar with renewing the end link and frame bushings on the sway bar, upgrading to graphite impregnated 'urethane to avoid creaks and squeaks. Are you saying the bar itself wears out or the bushings? I have seen them bend to be unusable, but never 'wear out'
Rear sway and track bar, oversize front bar, shocks and airbags are all on the wish list as we intend on towing a trailer on festival outings. Not currently budgeted, however.  Embarrassed  

The front Ford stabilizer bar end bushings (also called grommets) is what wears and does so very quickly.  The steel stabilizer bar itself is severely under-rated for the full load of a motor home, rendering it nearly ineffective.  Add the end rubber grommet wear and it's a decoration.

Making this clear for the other readers here....If you have a 2008 Ford chassis or newer, you have a better front stabilizer bar design direct from Ford.  Your bar is still under-rated for the load of a motor home, but your end links are not rubber grommets and don't have the quick-wear issue.

 8 
 on: December 09, 2017, 09:18:58 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by jatrax
Quote
Call Phoenix.  Get some prices from them.
Very good advice.  And considering the price paid for this coach putting a few grand into it to have it professionally repaired and brought up to snuff seems well worth it to me.  Of course it is easy for us to spend others money, BUT we are talking about water leaks which are the #1 enemy of any RV.  A few grand now might save you a lot more in the long run.  Or at least give you a nice comfortable motor home you can enjoy instead of constantly worrying about.

I'll second Ron's thoughts on the A/C dripping as well.  That does not sound right.  It could be just condensation but I doubt it.  We have had our A/C run for many hours in very damp conditions with no condensation.  If I understand how A/C units work your interior air should be dryer not more humid if it is being run.  Of course maybe you have so much water coming in from the leaks that that is causing the condensation.  Still I would not just assume it is only condensation.

Another thought, since there appears to be rear end damage of some sort is whether anything else is bent.  Have you had it aligned yet?  Checked the tires for abnormal wear?  Not trying to cause alarm but if impact damage is suspected then the whole rig should be inspected thoroughly to make sure nothing else was damaged.

 9 
 on: December 09, 2017, 08:28:17 pm 
Started by jfcaramagno - Last post by dickreid1
My single experience was that they ignore you.

Go through Carol at Phoenix for parts.

 10 
 on: December 09, 2017, 06:17:07 pm 
Started by jfcaramagno - Last post by jfcaramagno
Does anyone know the manufacturer of the Euro chair? I need to order a new part.

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